EyeOnWine

Relaxing, Casual Spanish Dinner & Drinks @ Tonico's Brithday.

2011-12-31T13:35:00.005+08:00

I was fortunate to have recently enjoyed, in the midst of the spate of the holidays' parties, two back-to-back relaxing dinners at friends' homes. The night after the one at Keiichi's, 29th December 2011, was at Tonico's place nearby in a leisurely and quiet celebration of his birthday. I was so laid back that I forgot to take photos of the dinner spread that included, among others, paella, agachonas and beef tenderloin salpicado. I caught myself eventually, however, and managed to take some later on.

Tonico the birthday boy (who is actually a distant cousin of Catha) in the white España fútbol shirt surrounded by his cousin/niece Victoria, brother Kiko, Boozze, Ken.

Sisters-in-law Yvonne & Pilar.

Lots of assorted cheeses and crackers...

...deli products...

...and an endless supply of silky jamón Ibérico that Pilar brought over from Madrid.

With all the above and much more, everyone enjoyed glasses of chilled white wine and:

Casería San Juan del Obispo Tareco Sidra Natural - This is an apple cider from the cool clime of Asturias in northern Spain - a typical apéritif enjoyed with pica-picas and lighter fare. Apple with slight pear and citrus flavors with an appetizing slight bitterness, beer-reminiscent mouthfeel and a slight underlying gamey/meaty/sanguine character. Very easy to drink a lot of. This is readily available at Terry's Selection.

Bodegas Hidalgo Single Vineyard Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada - Another typical Spanish apéritif hailing from Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cadiz, southern Spain), this is a manzanilla sherry made from palomino grapes from the producer's best vines. Manzanillas and finos are usually served with pica-picas of olives, warm almonds and chorizo. The term "pasada" means this particular manzanilla is aged longer than usual (12 years in American oak casks to be precise, which is around twice as long as the norm for manzanilla soleras). Bone dry with nuances of apple, sea brine and almond skins. This is locally distributed by Forth & Tay.

1991 Bodegas López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva - I've written about this wine that I've loved since I first had a bottle over lunch with Catha at Restaurante Echaurren in Ezcaray (in the Oja Valley of the Rioja region). Since Aaron and I import (or used to, at least) López de Heredia's wines, I will refrain from saying anything now - save that this bottle was in fine condition and showed me why I fell in love with the producer's steadfast traditional style. Riojan elegance in a glass.

Tonico also had out a bottle of Bowmore 15 Year-Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky - Though I tend to shy away from Islay single malts due to a less than stellar experience with a Lagavulin Islay 16 Year-Old specimen, Boozze (who is deeply into single malts nowadays, the lush) convinced me to try some, promising me that Islay's typically forward peat and smokey woodiness is much more balanced with maltiness in this one. He was right. Tonico, Kiko and I eventually finished off the rest of the bottle by midnight.

Before then, however, I did have a bit of this Chocolate Truffle Cake for dessert. There were other cakes on the table, but I stuck to this one. Delicious stuff. Never tire of it.

Happy Birthday again, Tonics, and many, many more happy ones to come!

Dinner @ Keiichi's.

2011-12-31T09:47:00.003+08:00

Keiichi is in town for the holidays, so we had dinner at his and Christine's place on the 28th December 2011. We were six in all: Keiichi & Christine, Tad & Chako, Catha & I. Chako and Christine had known each other back when they were both still working/living in Tokyo. Christine and Catha set up the get-together around a month ago at the last Commanderie de Bordeaux Manila dinner.

We started off with some refreshing Taittinger Brut NV with...

...a wheel of cheese...

...and a leg of Parma Ham which Christine expertly sliced away at.

Tad & Chako

Keiichi and Catha.

Dinner started with some fresh salad...

...and nice homemade pizza.

With the salad and pizza, we had some 2010 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis (I forgot to take a photo of it, so the above picture is a file photo of the 2009 vintage). I've written about this excellent, dry, bright, appetizingly bitter white Piedmontese white from the Roero hillsides of Piedmont very often as I love it with Italian meals - particularly with antipasti and pasta courses.

I used to have to ask Miguel to bring my stash of this in from Italy since the wine wasn't locally available. However, now, Premium Wine Exchange distributes it together with the producer's fine reds. At only around P1400/bottle, it's much better for me to just source bottles from them. Love it.

With the comfortingly earthy truffle pasta course...

...we had a bottle of 2005 Ceretto Barbaresco Asij - 100% nebbiolo from 4 hectares of estate owned vineyards; due to its youth, I slow-oxed it for around 4 hours in my wine ref before bringing it over. Though it had decent enough acidity, it was notably less acidic than Barbarescos I am used to - though the acidity picks up towards the back and finish. The concentrated, notably extracted dark fruit is sweetish, hefty, full-bodied, very round, somewhat dense, to the point of being a bit ponderous mid-mouth with prominent vanilla and other oak-related spice notes. Fair enough and more accessible for those who like modern-styled nebbiolo. Personally, I like mine cleaner, more focused and with better acidity.

With the roasted rack of lamb...

...Keiichi served a bottle of 1986 Château Prieuré-Lichine - I've not had very many vintages of this 4th growth Margaux-based estate though Catha & I had dinner at the château with the Vigneron and JC & Mari de Terry on the 30th March 2010, so this was a nice opportunity to see how one with age performs.

This had been breathing in a decanter, but I forgot to ask Keiichi for how long. Very nice, actually - notable over-all balance, not tired at all with subtle bottle-age sweetness setting in; proper old-school Bordeaux in its slightly over medium body, deep cassis, slight plum, violets and underlying gravel with a touch of tobacco. Acidity was precise, making it, to my taste, a lot more food-friendly than the preceding wine.

It was a most pleasant and relaxing evening. Conversation flowed easily. Very nice blending. I remember reading many years ago that 6 is the ideal number for an intimate dinner at home. This dinner was certainly a very strong indication that that is indeed so. Until the next!

Dinner @ Cyrille Soenen's New Brasserie Ciçou.

2011-12-29T16:03:00.004+08:00

Though Cyrille's been connected with Impressions (Maxim's Hotel, Resorts World) since he closed down the old Restaurant Ciçou (formerly at the Hotel Celeste) and I've eaten very well at Impressions twice, I couldn't help but await dining at his own restaurant again with great anticipation. I finally got myself to Brasserie Ciçou (Annapolis St., Greenhills, San Juan) with my family this past Monday, the 26th December 2011.

We were only 5 for dinner that night, nephew Michael joined us, while the youngest was just on his way home from a day at Catha's cousins' farm. Though Cyrille himself wasn't there that night, I was confident we'd have a good spread. I wasn't mistaken.

The brigade de cuisine hard at work.

I enjoyed watching the crew concentrated at their stations through the glass...

...especially my niece, Nicole, commis chef who was manning the sidings station.

The Cassoulet oven bound, one of my favorites at the former Restaurant Ciçou.

We started off w/ delicious pork-based Pâtés, Terrines, Gherkins...

...Fresh Sardines (another carry-over favorite from the former Restaurant Ciçou)...

...some Escargots of course...

...Duck Terrine...

...and a couple of orders of Eggs Benedict. Unlike most commercial Eggs Benedict renditions which I find ponderous with terribly overly dense, ponderously creamy Hollandaise sauce, this was relatively light, remarkably clean, the flavors/ingredients well-defined and precisely balanced. If I still lived in Greenhills, I'd have this for breakfast everyday. Both orders were quickly wiped out.

With all these, we enjoyed a bottle of 2008 Domaine J-M Brocard Chablis Premier Cru Montmains - one of my Christmas gifts from Premium Wine Exchange. I first tried this on the 8th February 2011, during Hiro-san's unforgettable IWFS Kaiseki Dinner. My notes then were as follows:

2008 Domaine J-M Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Montmains - from the Stockbroker. This is locally available his Premier Wine Exchange. I've liked the wines of Domaine Brocard ever since I visited the winery and tasted through their wines back in July 2006. Their 1er Crus Montmains and Montée de Tonnerre are my favorite bottlings. This 2008 Montmains is excellent in its typical oyster shell, cold stony notes to its well-focused, apple, clean white mineral and white flowered base. Definitely a lovely Chablis - tons of charm, good cut, typical and easily approachable.

Nephew Michael & the second.

Now, around 10 months later, the steely, oyster-shell laced fruit seems softer, riper, more rounded and amiably pillowy, almost lush, faintly honeyed, but with good definition, acid balance, focus and a consistent underlying cold stone theme. Very nice. Catha really liked this as she prefers her Chablis a bit fruitier; and I found it wonderful with the butter-slathered escargots and rich pork pâté, pork terrine and duck pâté as well. Very nice. Very enjoyable indeed, and well recommended at its price (available at PWX at P1850 full retail).

The eldest & Catha.

The eldest had the Chef Cyrille Salad...

...while I had the French Onion Soup, another clean, well-defined, focused and nicely balanced rendition. The onions' natural flavor and sweetness were brought out without becoming heavy on the palate at any time. The main courses then started arriving at table.

The finished Cassoulet (the second most always orders this when available)...

The eldest's Boeuf Onglet...

...and two orders of the large Rib-Eye Steaks w/ Roasted Potatoes, Mushrooms, Pumpkin, Lardons, Shallots & Garlic Confit. The steak came rare enough as ordered and was well flavored, juicy and very tender. The sidings prepared by Nicole were, objectively, exceptionally good, the squash soft and caramelized as was the shallots, the lardons slightly crisped, the mushrooms were done precisely, etc. Loved the two nice, large and thick steaks which Michael and I shared with Catha and the second (though the eldest got a bit as well just to taste).

With the steaks was offered helpings of what appeared to be a jug of Sauce Béarnaise. I'm not 100% sure what it was though, since I don't put sauces or gravy on good steaks (I prefer to taste just the meat). Catha asked me to photograph it, however, since it was "cute". What married men have to put up with, I tell you....

The Seared Foie Gras was the last starter to be served, arriving slightly before the mains. It was competently executed; served atop some sort of brioche which tasted like maple syrup. Upon my suggestion, Michael toppped a bit of steak with the seared foie for an makeshift tournedos Rossini of sorts - which he obviously liked a lot.

Earlier that day, Richard recommended that I bring no fine Bordeaux, but a Pommard, Volnay or Northern Rhône instead. So, with the mains, I served a bottle of 1998 Domaine Comte Armand Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux (thanks to Nicole for the photo as I had forgotten to take one of the bottle) - The wine, after being left open for around 1½-2 hours, released aromas of dark, ripe, deeply-veined confited plum, slight raisin, black cherry, slight vanilla, violets and alluring sanguine, meaty notes.

On the palate, it mirrored its scents in a notably masculine, concentrated, slightly dense and rustically textured medium++ body. Not bad; but I couldn't help but think that this was slightly over-wrought - like its concentration/extraction/density was contrived - but that's just me. I could, of course, easily be wrong.

As to the pairing, it was good enough. It did stand up to and complement the steak well enough. I'd have preferred a bit more cut as the acid was a just a bit low for my taste. My main course itself, though, was wholly beyond reproach.

Good job!

For dessert, among others, we had 3 orders of Kouign Amann but the kids attacked it way faster than I could take a photo - so this is one of my file photos of it from the old Restaurant Ciçou. It's the same dessert served now though. I've loved this dessert ever since I first had it almost 2½ years ago at a Commanderie de Bordeaux Manila members' dinner back on the 7th August 2009. My family, friends and I have been enjoying it since, the dish having now achieved virtual cult status amongst Manila's dining consignetti. It's essentially a butter-rich pastry/cake which many, including myself and my family, have found addictively delicious. One simply has to try it to know for one's self.

By way of mignardises, we were very thoughtfully given a platter of excellent Chocolate & Orange Ganache Macarons and Mini Madeleines. Love it!

Upon Nicole's recommendation, we also had a large order of Kings' Cake (a.k.a., Galette des Rois of northern France). As I understand, a little toy is hidden in one of the slices, and the one who draws such slice is "King for the Day". What benefits are accorded such King are unknown to me, but, it does make for a bit of fun during dessert.

The second drew the piece with the toy and was thus crowned "King for the Day". Michael was worried if he had to be the queen. A couple of double espressos later, we headed off for home. Wonderful dinner - well worth the trek and braving the usual Greenhills post-Xmas shopping traffic. We'll definitely be back!

Until the next!

A Tribute to Extremadura.

2011-12-08T09:00:00.021+08:00

Dinner of Tuesday the 29th November 2011 found me back at Terry's 2ºPiso for La Gran Cena Homenaje a Extremadura organized by the Spanish Chamber of Commerce (a.k.a., La Cámara).

Naturally, there is nobody in this country more qualified to design and execute the menu than Juan Carlos de Terry. He only had to mention to me that he was to handle the dinner, and I immediately decided to attend.

As one can see in the map above, the region of Extremadura is bordered on the north by Castilla y León, the south by Andalucía, the east by Castilla-La Mancha, and the west by Portugal. In terms of food, the area is known for its pork, cheeses, olive oils and paprika (D.O. Pimentón de la Vera in particular). Thus, upon my arrival, I was endlessly regaled by samples of the regional pork-based deli products Ibéricos de la Dehesa...

...such as jamón, presa, vela de lomo, chorizo and salchichón.

The deli products were so delightfully rustic and addictive, it is a good thing that JC called my attention to the pass-around of Escabeche de Coliflor al Estilo del Restaurante Los Pajares - a recipe (using orange juice) which he picked up and re-interpreted from Los Pajares, a traditional Extremañan restaurant located in the town of La Zarza, in the province of Badajoz. Totally different from the escabeche as we know it in Manila, the escabeche cauliflower pass-around is difficult to describe. One had to be there. I ate 5 of them at least. Aside from these, I also got to have some...

...Caracoles al Pan Frito, Estilo Alange & Montadito del Morcilla de Malpartida. Tragically, I missed out on the Pulguitas Rellenos de Crema del Casar, which must have gone really fast.

All these were washed down by glasses of well-chilled Masachs Cava Brut &
the verdejo based 2010 Bodegas Avelino Vegas Circe Blanco (Rueda).

Current Cámara President Miguel Romero-Salas with past President José Miguel Cortés.

Alicia Sy & Chinkee Clemente-Koppe with Mari de Terry.

Cámara General Manager Fernando Muñoz Ramiro with Cyrene de la Rosa.

I also met new friends there, as well as old ones, such as fellow IWFS & La Commanderie de Bordeaux Manila member Sunny Garcia (right).

Chinkee with Vimla Gopaldas.

We were eventually called to seat ourselves for Miguel Romero-Salas' opening address. The tables were named after major Extremañan localities such as Trujillo, Cáceres, etc. I was seated at Merída (the regional capital) with, among others, the brothers Romero-Salas (José Luis & Miguel), the spouses Cortés, and, as depicted below, beside the most charming Inmaculada Martinez, and across Tito Justo Ortiz (the dad of longtime friends since college, twins Ines & Teresa).

My Spanish got an extreme workout that night as Tito Justo encouraged me to speak it the entire time, as much as I could, anyway. I can understand fine, but my spoken Spanish is somewhat limited. When conversation turned to local politics later that night, I had no choice but to switch to English when I answered as my vocabulary wouldn't allow me to otherwise.

Juan Carlos then took the floor and gave an account on Extremañan cuisine, complete with notes on the climate, soils and history as only he can. When JC spoke about la cocina Extremaña, he did so with authority - never satisfied with book learning when it comes to food, he actually has traveled the area, getting to know all first-hand. During his talk, he recounted how we together, at a lavish ICEX cocktail in Barcelona, came upon the jamón de Trevélez that he now distributes. I remember it well, he chatted up the owners and immediately arranged a visit to their farm (approximately 40 kms. southeast of Granada) to learn more about the product. Talk about being passionate about food - he is a whole lot crazier than I'll ever be.

Dinner proper then started with a 1st Course of Bacalao Confitado Roclado con Bálsamo de Arbequina y Crema de Pimiento Morrón, Aceitunas Aromatizado al Orégano Fresco y Pimentón de La Vera (Confit Codfish Adorned with Arbequina Olive Oil, Red Pepper Cream, Olives Scented with Fresh Oregano & Smokey Paprika from the Extremañan La Vera D.O.). The cod was melt-in-your-mouth, moist and tender, the accompanying flavors balanced and complex, yet maintaining a rustic honesty.

This was paired with the earlier mentioned 2010 Bodegas Avelino Vegas Circe Blanco*, one of JC's newer wines, a verdejo-based blanco from Rueda - a lively, clean, very slightly honeyed soft, slightly creamy, round, tropical passion fruit and peach. Deeper, heftier, more ripely sweet and more concentrated than most all other verdejos I've tried - I'd guess the fruit was from older vines. Open, accessible, amiable - a feminine verdejo; this is for easy, casual enjoyment. There was just enough acidity to brighten this dish and give a bit of lift. Good as an apéritif as well as for pairing with fattier fishes for a fruity contrast.

*Named after the mythological Greek enchantress mentioned in Homer's Odyssey.

The 2nd course, a crowd favorite (it certainly was mine), was Arroz Meloso de Rabo de Toro Y Setas Silvestres al Fundente de Queso El Porfiao, Origen Casar de Palomeros, Las Hurdes, Cáceres (Creamy Rice with Oxtail and Wild Mushrooms with Molten "El Porfiao" Cheese from Casar de Palomero, Las Hurdes, Cáceres). A masterpiece in savory-earthiness: the rice maintained its integrity despite its slightly nutty creaminess, the oxtail's and mushrooms' flavors seamlessly intertwined, the cheese adding a layer of delicate pungency and balanced richness. Fantastic. Rustic luxury and elegance.

With the dish was paired the 2007 Casa del Valle Estate Bottled Syrah - I don't get to try many Spanish syrahs - this was very ripe, full, hefty, showing raspberry liqueur, blackberries and crème de cassis, slight black pepper, with undertones of new oak: vanilla/cinnamon and cocoa. I had no idea where exactly it was from until Tito Justo pointed out that it was from the Toledo area. Interesting.

The 3rd and main course was JC's take on the traditional caldereta de cordero, named Caldereta de Cordero al Pimentón La Dalia Estilo Jaraíz de La Vera (Lamb Stew with "La Dalia" Brand Paprika in the Style of Jaraíz de La Vera [a town in the province of Cáceres]). This was paired with magnums of 2009 Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja - a vino joven made up of garnacha and tempranillo from the Rioja Baja in a very ripe vintage. Spicy blackcurrants and cherry, ripe dark plum belly, vanilla and slight licorice, halfway to full-bodied; a straightforward, polished, rounded, modernish young Rioja. At it's very reasonable price, I believe retailing at Terry's at under P700/bottle, it is a steal and perfect for pairing with rich meaty dishes at large holiday parties.

The Cáceres Table laughs it up.

JC scoops out the cheese for plating.

The Cheese Course was Ibores al Orégano Fresco, Torta "El Porfiao" de Castuera, y, Ibores "De Caza" 10 Años de Curación, Berrocales Trujillanos, Cáceres. "Ibores" is an Extremañan D.O. cheese from the districts of Ibores, Villuercas, La Jara & Trujillo in Cáceres. To qualify as a D.O. cheese, it must be made of unpasteurized milk of only Serrana, Verata, Retinta goats (and crosses of the same) raised in officially registered farms, under official and regulated guidelines.

The first cheese was a moderately rich one laced with fresh oregano. Firm and just mildly pungent, vaguely nutty, slightly salty, it is totally unlike the ubiquitous ultra-creamy and gamey French chèvres. The second, not an Ibores, was an oozingly rich, fat, creamy, buttery cheese ("El Porfiao" is the brand) from Castuera (province of Badajoz) made of raw Merino sheep's milk. It is so soft one has to spoon it out of its rind (as seen being done by JC in the second photo above). The third, a 10-year aged Ibores by Berrocales Trujillanos (a 3rd generation family business based, obviously, in Trujillo - the southern outskirts thereof in particular) , was hardened and darkened by age, showing a pronounced nuttiness that called to mind a cheesy, slightly salty, unsweetened marzipan cookie.

JC finishes the desserts of...

Helado de Higos Frescos de Almoharin y Aceite de Oliva Arbequina sobre Torrija Cacereña de Sierra de Fuentes (Ice Cream of Fresh Almoharin Figs & Arbequina Olive Oil around a Cáceres Torrija from the town of Sierra de Fuentes). This Cáceres version of torrijas (a Spanish take on pain perdu - a.k.a., French toast) was unlike any torrija I've ever had - denser, nuttier, calling to mind a flattened, somewhat chewy/more glutinous macaroon. The helado and accompanying fresh figs were absolutely heavenly in themselves, with the torrija, and all together. Superb. I could have eaten 3 of these, but stuck to just one.

As in most traditional Spanish dinners (the ones I've attended, anyway), pacharán rounded off the meal - in this case, the La Navarra Etiqueta Verde Pachrán that Terry's distributes. Love this stuff, and, apparently, so did Tito Justo.

Miguel Romero-Salas then re-took the floor, gave the closing remarks and led a deluge of applause for the Terry's staff (standing at left is La Cámara's Immediate Past President Alfredo Roca), and, of course,...

...for El Maestro...

...for whom Past President, José Luis Romero-Salas, offered a congratulatory toast.

Thus ended my extremely enjoyable crash-course on the cuisine of Extremadura. Surely, this lesser-known region's food products and traditional dishes currently are under-appreciated - even by me, admittedly - until that night, that is. With the many people leaving the dinner with purchased packages of Extremañan cheeses and assorted deli items, however, a lot of progress had definitely been made. ¡Olé!

Alabang Group Christmas Dinner 2011.

2011-12-05T11:22:00.009+08:00

Dinner last Saturday, the 3rd December 2011, was at Boozze's & Marg's place (they're the only ones in the group with a dining table large enough to seat 14-16) for the Alabang Group's annual Christmas dinner. We were 14 in all; dinner was by Hylton Le Roux's PI Catering.

Tonico Climent, Minnie Chiongbian, Maricel Abad, Willy Chiongbian, Margarita & Boozze Fandiño

Boozze's been getting into single malts lately, so there was a line up of the same available with the pica-picas. For lighter, celebratory fare, however, we also had a couple of bottles of...

Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur - Love this vivacious, fresh, softly rounded bubbly. I've said it before; I'll say it again: this is the best deal on non-vintage champagne one can get locally. Unfortunately, Premium Wine Exchange is now sold out (I got the last few bottles), but a new shipment will be in by January.

Kenny Quintal & Willy Chiongbian

With the single malts and champagne, we picked on some...

Nuts,...

...Olives...

...and some Jamón.

Margarita, Minnie, Maricel, Willy, Toñico & Yvonne.

With the Ramoses' arrival, we eventually moved to the dining room, and...

...after a final check on everything by our hosts, dinner was called for service.

Tonji & Ken arrived from an earlier drinking/sailing spree on Tonji's boat,
so Tonj (in green) was particularly animated that night.

The Menu

Hylton Le Roux & team in action...

...plating the pasta course.

Voila: Tagliatelle w/ Truffle Cream Sauce, Parmesan & Charred Asparagus

In Hylton's originally proposed menu, the pasta course was actually Truffle Gnocchi Salad with Camembert, Artichokes, Toasted Walnuts & Chorizo Oil; but, since I enjoyed his truffle cream tagliatelle so much when I had it at the recent Manila Gentlemen's Club Dinner, I wanted this group to try the latter, so asked that this be served instead. At the time, what I wrote about this dish was:

The first course was a superb Tagliatelle w/ Truffle Cream Sauce, Parmesan & Charred Asparagus. No fake synthetic "truffle oil" here; Hylton used an oil with real truffle bits, and the difference was evident in that the pungency and flavors were natural and subtle and not "trying hard" exaggerated.

From Marg's reaction across the table, she obviously enjoyed this dish as much as I. I recall Maxie did too - and his mom being Italian and an excellent cook, that's saying a lot. Boozze, well, he finished his portion in an instant, so I'm guessing he liked as well.

Maxie Abad & Ken Quintal on the right, as the hosts' children greet the adults.

The seafood course was Seared Scallops with Broccoli Purée, Artichokes, Caramelized Baby Onion and Bacon Foam...

...paired with 2008 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi Sec.

I also served this recently at the above-mentioned Manila Gentlemen's Club Dinner; my notes at the time being as follows:

I first had this during dinner with Sandy at Restaurant Gary Danko at the tail-end of a working trip to SF this past July. My notes then were as follows:

We both started with the Lobster Salad with Asian Pear, Mango, Avocado, Cashews and Lime Cilantro Rémoulade. This was very nice, light and refreshingly playful. To pair, I chose the 2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi Sec because I so enjoyed the 2008 Huet Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec during lunch with Domaine Huet proprietor Anthony Hwang this past 16th May 2011. I actually had the 2008 Le Mont Demi Sec earlier this year at the Stockbroker's tasting at Masseto, and figured that the Le Mont, being heftier and buttressed with more toasty leesy notes, would do well with the lobster - and that it did.
For the same reason as above did I choose this wine to pair with Hylton's foie gras dish, and, indeed, it had the right structure, body, comparatively sweeter/richer fruit and acid cut for the dish. Home run here if I do say so myself. Loved it. Available at Premium Wine Exchange for P2000/bottle full retail.

One thing notable about this particular single vineyard Vouvray Demi Sec (i.e., "off dry"; 100% chenin blanc; Le Mont is Domaine Huet's premier vineyard, producing the comparatively deepest, lushest fruited wine - the other two being Le Haut Lieu and Clos du Bourg), is that it is so food friendly and versatile in its, clean, vibrant/exuberant, membrillo, ripe pineapple, citrus fruit; its thrilling acidity; razor-sharp focus; and, impeccable poise and balance. It does just as well with richer seafood dishes as it does with foie gras...

...which is why I also had it served to pair with the following course of Seared Foie Gras with Almond Purée and Poached Cherries. While this group is accustomed to huge servings of seared foie gras (thicker, more seared/caramelized), age necessitates, nay, demands, more moderation. This dish, to me, was fine. I particularly enjoyed the fruity contrast of the poached cherries; and the zippy wine lent the dish added cut, lift and brightness.

A palate cleansing Melon and Thai Basil Granite before the fowl & meat courses of:

Roast Duck Breast with Braised Red Cabbage,
Pastille of Confit Duck Leg and Five Spice Jus; and...

...Roast Lamb Rack with Confit White Cabbage,
Smoked Potato Purée and King Mushroom.

The duck course was textbook "simple food done well" - warmly comforting and earthy - yet Hylton's technique was evident in that the roasted duck breast was juicy and tender and the confit duck leg meat was moist and yielding. I've been cooking and eating roasted magret de canard for years and rarely do I get one this tender and deeply flavored. Upon my asking, Hylton explained how he did it, but, out of respect, I cannot share what he said.

The lamb course (originally lamb loin until I advised Hylton that this group prefers lamb rack) was, in a word, superb. The lamb was perfectly cooked (as was the confit white cabbage), precisely seasoned, with the king mushroom adding depth in flavor, textural change, and, thereby, over-all gustatory entertainment.

We were all wondering, Boozze & Marge included, where we could get this king mushroom - and, later on, Hylton told us he gets it in South Supermarket, which our hosts' family happens to own and run. Boozze just shrugged and smiled when Ken and I ribbed him about not knowing about his family business' fresh produce products (in fairness, though, Boozze and Marg run their own business and neither of them work in the family's supermarket chain).

As to the red wines of the evening, since Boozze is a confirmed Napa-head, available for the fowl and meat courses were bottles of Napa cabernet sauvignon:

2006 BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve, and...

2005 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve.

Earlier in the evening, I suggested that we just open the 2005 Beringer CS Private Reserves first to breathe, and, the 2006 BV GdLs later on if needed. As far as I recall, after almost 3 bottles of the Le Mont Demi Sec (aside from the single malts and bottles of champagne), the bottles of 2005 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve were enough - Plush, rich velvety crème de cassis, bit of kirsch and dark raspberry, well-knit notes of mild dark minerality, bit of chocolate, vanilla bean and licorice. Softly fruited, pliant, full bodied, molten tannins. Surely a crowd-pleaser of a Napa cab. While this can age and hold for several more years, I think it's already very enjoyable now.

Dessert was a decadent, extremely indulgent Chocolate & Peanut Butter Fondant with Caramel Mascarpone. It's not exceedingly sweet like Reese's Peanut Butter Cups - which is a good thing for me - an adult, deeper and refined version thereof, kind of, with the peanut butter component properly discreet. I finished mine; and I don't usually finish my dessert. Enough said.

Hylton joined us for a glass of single malt at table after service was completed, everyone pleasantly full and not overly/uncomfortably stuffed - which is a good thing for a bunch of mid-40s diners. Upon our asking, he did candidly share with us some of his cooking tips as regards the dishes we had, but, of course, we'd not disseminate them. Lovely dinner. Thanks, Hylton.

Merry Christmas & Until the next!

Tau Yuan, Finally!

2011-12-03T12:05:00.003+08:00

Tau Yuan, known for its Hainanese Chicken, Mango Lapu-Lapu and Xiao long bao, has been around for a few years - my wife and friends have long been there more than a few times, but it wasn't until Monday, the 28th November 2011, that I finally got to try it myself. It just happened - I was at the new LBC Express Corporate Office at Resorts World that day; Enky, Paolo, Monica and I were supposed to have lunch at Pancake House - and, remembering Monica's FB posts on Tao Yuan, I convinced them to join me there instead.

Their Hinanese Chicken deserves its fame: juicy, tender, cooked precisely, not too fatty, the seasoning neither aggressive nor weak. I don't really eat chicken, but I look forward to eating this one again. With their Chicken Rice, I loved it.

The Crispy Roast Pork was, well, a good enough specimen of the dish. I think one has to really try to screw up to make this dish badly and they certainly did not. Not too fatty, the skin crisp, the integrity of the meat correct. That said, it's nothing fantastic as far as this particular kind of dish goes - but certainly good enough. They served it with hoisin sauce and mustard. I prefer it with mustard and sugar, the way it is served in Victoria City Seafood in HK.

To ease the guilt of eating the pork, we had some Polonchay. Nice and fresh.

Aside from the chicken, what stood out for me was their rendition of Drunken Shrimp. These guys were presented jumping around in a big metal bowl, reveling in their Shaoxing bath. With ingredients that fresh, all one need do is season correctly and not overcook - and such was the case that day. Loved it. Monica had a funny comment that, while she enjoyed the dish, she wished that the shrimp had "peeled themselves before they died". That would've been perfect, but, probably, a tiny bit much to wish for.

The Mango Lapu-Lapu was pleasant enough. The contrast of crisp skin and fruit-softness was interesting, as was the interplay of sweet fruitiness and fish savory. I get what they are trying for, but, personally, I'd have a well-made (though ubiquitous) Steamed Live Lapu-Lapu in Fine Soy Sauce over this any day of the week.

I totally forgot to order some Xiao Long Bao to try out. I guess that just means I'll have to go there again for that - and I'd certainly not mind.

Manila Blind Bordeaux Challenge XIX: Cali Cab Wins Again.

2011-12-02T17:19:00.011+08:00

The night before the Usual Suspects' Blind 1st Growth Dinner, the 30th November 2011, was the Grand Crew's Blind Bordeaux Challenge XIX, this time held at the Tivoli (Old Manila was closed for some reason). We were only 7 that night as Mrs. Stockbroker was out of the country. My last dinner at Tivoli was good enough (except for my corked bottle of 1990 Petit Village), so the change of venue seemed fine. Or so I thought.

Amuse Bouche - My bouche was not amused.

Although I loved the Lobster Bisque at my recent previous dinner there, while the flavors of this one were the same, this time somebody went way overboard with the foaming device. It was literally 50% foam at least. Very disappointing. Is "consistency" not in the restaurant's vocabulary?

Mrs. Doc's main course was a Quartet of Pasta.
When asked what her favorite was, her answer was "None."

Catha went for the Duck Confit for her main course, but I don't know what she thought of it. Everyone else had steak. Above was my US Prime Rib-Eye Steak. As you can see, it looked like a breakfast steak from Pancake House. Not only that, I asked for it rare to medium-rare and it arrived medium. Worse, it cost me the same as (or even slightly more than) a Double US Prime Rib-Eye from Mamou. While I do expect to pay more in the Tivoli, it would certainly be nice to get something halfway decent for the premium at least.

With the main courses came the competing reds.

Wine # 1 was slightly corked. From the outset it smelled a little dusty. One could still taste the wine, but, as time passed, the slight dustiness evolved into pronounced old cardboard. Obviously I voted this 4th Place. Aside from myself, the Vigneron spouses, Doc and the Stockbroker also noted it to be slightly corked. It turned out to be the Vigneron's 2001 Château Trotanoy.

Wine # 2 - With the first "chew", I decided (and accordingly indicated) that this was a Napa as I detected telltale coconut cream oakiness underneath the lightly truffled, full-bodied, dense, hefty, concentrated and very ripe crème de cassis and dark plum. Beside Wines #s 3 & 4 though, it seemed a bit lacking in refinement, so I ranked it 3rd Place. It turned out to be Doc's 1991 Ridge Montebello.

Wines # 3 & 4 - These two were so close to each other in quality, I had an extremely difficult time ranking them. Both were pretty classic Bordeaux, Wine #3 obviously with a lot more plum and, for reasons I no longer remember, I eventually ranked Wine #4 as 1st Place; leaving Wine #3 in 2nd Place. Wine#4 turned out to be the Stockbroker's 1982 Château Lynch Bages; while Wine#3 was my 1990 Château Petit Village. Mrs. Vigneron's rankings were the same as mine, which is not unusual as we rank wines the same in blind tastings more often than not.

Mrs. Vigneron tallies the votes as Catha looks on.

The Results:

It was a very close call for the first 3 slots:

1st Place: Wine #2 - Doc's 1991 Ridge Montebello, 20 pts.
2nd Place: Wine #4 - Jojo's 1982 Lynch Bages, 19 pts.
3rd Place: Wine #3 - My 1990 Petit Village, 18 pts.
4th Place: Wine #1 - Edouard's 2001 Trotanoy, 13 pts.

Again, Doc wins with a Cali red. We may as well start calling this friendly competition "Manila Blind Napa Challenge" with the way the majority has been voting as of late - taking nothing away from the 1991 Ridge MB, of course, as it is unquestionably a very good wine.

Ever magnanimous in defeat, the Vigneron treated us to a bottle of 1961 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. We noted that, unlike the one he entered in Blind Bordeaux Challenge IX (during which I ranked it 2nd Place after Jojo's 1994 Haut Brion), this one was not relabeled as it still bears his dad's name in the bottom left corner. Although, again, definitely a great treat to have, the first bottle was markedly fresher than this one.

The Stockbroker was the one tasked with the opening of the old bottle.

Naturally, we had to start ribbing the Vigneron for voting the Ridge MB as 1st Place wine (Doc and Catha also chose it as 1st Place). I teased him that he may well consider opening a winery in Napa - after all, Christian Moueix does a hell of a job with his Dominus.

Catha and Doc laugh it up...

...as does the Stockbroker.

A couple of orders of Crêpe Suzette for dessert...

...lent a sweet finish to a fun evening, the likes of which I have missed.

Until the next!

Blind 1st Growth Dinner.

2011-12-02T11:09:00.005+08:00

Over a month ago, during one of the wine lunches of the Usual Suspects (that I was unable to attend), Richard came up with the idea of holding a blind 1855 first growth dinner. Scheduling was difficult as Richard and Jojo Madrid (a.k.a., the Stockbroker) had business trips coming up, so it was only last night, the 1st December that it finally took place - the venue was Premium Wine Exchange and dinner was by Gaita Forés' Cibo by M. We were 7 in all: Usual Suspects Jojo, Richard, J-Lab, Greg and myself, with "guest stars" Doc & Eric Recto. The Stockbroker had also invited the Vigneron, but he had a business trip to go to.

Jojo, J-Lab, Richard & I were the first to arrive.
While waiting for Greg, Eric and Gerry, we started off with a bubbly...

Champagne Krug Grand Cuvée - from J-Lab, a pre-LVMH bottle from the early-to-mid '90s I recall him saying. Lovely champagne: Full, lush, opulent mouth-feel and weight, preserved golden fruits, hints of gingerbread and fruitcake spice, nuts. A middle you want to hold in your mouth as long as possible. Fresh, long finish. Loved it.

Richard & J-Lab

Pass-arounds were Stuffed Parmesan Crisps...

Mini-Barquillos...

...and Roasted Bone Marrow on Toast.

Eric, who had arrived by then, popped open a bottle of 1999 Champagne Pol Roger Brut - Also lush and giving, a few shades less in weight than the Krug, this had a marked freshness and focus in fruit with an underlying, pillowy mid-palate "milkiness" (which I usually associate with a champagne's pinot noir component). Slightly biscuity already, this is good to go and, I expect, will continue to improve even more. Also very nice and, surely, a wonderful palate-primer. I, however, had most of my share with the pasta course since I was driving and didn't want to get hit too fast with bubbly on an empty stomach.

With Doc's arrival, dinner proper began.

The Menu

Chilled Japanese Edamame atop Ikura

Taglierini "Il Bianco" - Lobster, Bottarga Dust,
Cherry Tomatoes, White Wine & Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Grilled Bone-In Tenderloin, Red Wine au jus, Spinach-Potato-Manchego Mash, and, under the salad, Scallopine of Chicken Breast

The 6 reds are served blind. No vintage restrictions. We had to guess both producer and vintage - 1 point for producer, 3 points for producer and vintage, 0 points for vintage alone. It was a herculean task, especially because the wines kept changing with each pass. Unfortunately, I left my written notes at PWX and must now rely on a hazy, alcohol-addled memory (so I am not 100% sure I'm being accurate about my guesses until i manage to retrieve them):

Wine #1 - Looked to be quite aged with a medium brick-red. Medium-bodied at best, lacking a middle, a bit linear. Cedar, silky red cherry, dark raspberry and violets. I gave it one star ranking. I do not recall what my guess for producer and vintage but I was wrong anyway. No points. It turned out to be Richard's 1990 Château Mouton Rothschild (magnum).

Wine #2 - Halfway between full and medium, proper middle, there was an underlying chocolate to the comparatively hefty cassis and herb-laced dark fruit which made me guess it to be from Mouton Rothschild. I don't remember what vintage I guessed, but I was wrong about the producer anyway, so no points. I gave it a two star ranking. It turned out to be my 1994 Château Haut Brion.

Wine #3 - I do not recall anything about the wine except that I initially guessed it to be a Château Margaux from, I think, the mid-90s. However, after a couple more passes, I changed the producer to Latour. Wrong move. It turned out to be Greg's 2002 Château Margaux which I had given a two star ranking. No points for me. I should have trusted my first guess as to producer.

Wine #4 - The fullest, ripest and most concentrated of them all. Nice depth and balance. I gave it two stars. I vaguely recall I guessed it to be a Haut Brion, but I do not recall what vintage. One point for me. It was Jojo's 1990 Château Haut Brion (which he easily and clearly identified as his wine).

Wine #5 - Very tannic with huge grip. Quite closed and difficult to assess. I gave it a one star ranking and guessed it to be a 2002 Margaux. Wrong again. It was Doc's 1995 Château Haut Brion.

Wine #6 - A bit greenish and angular on the palate, but with a nice bouquet which made me give it a two star ranking and guessed it to be a Margaux, but I do not recall what vintage I guessed. It didn't matter though as I was wrong about the vintage anyway. One point for me - it was Eric's 1983 Château Margaux.

So, it came to pass that I was severely humbled with a mere 2 points (I think). It was a tough yet thoroughly enjoyable task - one I would not hesitate to take on again and again.

Jojo, however, was a completely different story. Aside form nailing his own wine, I do not know what else he got correctly but do remember that he was in the lead by very far with a total of 9 points. Moreover, his 1990 Haut Brion was voted 1st Place for the event (2nd Place being Greg's 2002 Margaux; 3rd Place being my 1994 Haut Brion). Congratulations to the Stockbroker! Well done indeed!

Apple-Pear Strudel, Vanilla Bean Bath, Dulce de Leche Gelato
w/ Negros Sea Salt for dessert, paired with a pair of Yquems...

J-Lab's bottle we had to guess the vintage of. It was a middle-weight Yquem, dark, burnished gold and amber, with a sugar-syrup finish to its slightly over medium heft and honeyed pineapple, candied apricot, orange rind & vanilla notes. Jojo and I guessed it to be vintage 1983 - and we were the closest. It turned out to be a 1982 Château d'Yquem from J-Lab. Jojo then opened a 375ml of his favorite 1988 Château d'Yquem - very rich, opulent, no-holds barred luscious, rounded, creamy vanilla bean infused ripe peach, candied apricot and orange marmalade. Decadent wines both.

Until the next Blind 1st Growth Dinner! (March 2012 was it?)

It didn't end there, though. While chatting outside with the Doc and Richard, sans any espressos to cap the evening off, it eventually came about that Richard, J-Lab, Greg and I proceeded for a nightcap to Distillery in The Fort.

With some Cuban Partagas Londres Finos (a gift from Clem Nieto)...

...we had a bottle of Lagavulin 16 Year-Old Single Malt which Richard chose since it is one of his favorite single malts. I don't drink much single malt, and found this very woody and smoky - even more than my cigar. J-Lab did tell me that this is a single malt for veteran single malt drinkers so I may find it very "different". Richard added that it was a "very particular" and "difficult" (which I take to mean not very accessible to beginners) one. They were both right. Greg and I found it...quite interesting. I don't think either of us'll be rushing off to buy our own bottles of this any time soon though.

2nd Impressions.

2011-11-30T15:16:00.003+08:00

A little over a month ago, on Friday, the 28th October 2011, I treated Miguel and Rene to lunch at Impressions in commemoration of the 1st year of my legal consultancy for LBC Express. Santi and Enky were supposed to join us but Santi got way too busy that noontime and Enky suddenly had another lunch to attend. This was second time at Impressions, the first time having been in a dinner celebration of Catha's birthday in late August 2011.

Naturally, we started off with a bit of bubbly, in the form of Miguel's bottle of Segura Viudas Cava Reserva Heredad Accolades. My notes from a year ago are still applicable:

Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad Accolades - From Aaron. A quick look at the producer's website shows that:

Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad is a limited production méthode champenoise wine originally reserved for members of the Segura family and their friends. Reserva Heredad is made exclusively from grapes grown in the estate's vineyards at Torrelavit in the Alt Penedès region of Spain. Only the first pressing of the Macabeo and Parellada grapes goes into the making of the cuvée. The yeast is added and the wine is allowed to develop in the bottle for up to four years.

Medium bodied and mellow with a perfumed bouquet, character and depth. A good fruit intensity on the palate and a long and slightly yeasty finish. Reserva Heredad comes in an exquisite hand-blown bottle with a slender, tapered neck. The bottle is emblazoned with the pewter crest of Segura Viudas and rests on a pewter base inscribed with grapes.

Further, this is made up of macabeo (67%) and parellada (33%), so, apparently, there is none of the usual xarel-lo in this cava. Fuller, heftier, relatively creamy and notably round, its fruit, like the Reserva Real's, has a slight dried/candied character to it. The Reserva Real has, to my recollection, a bit more depth, complexity and heft, but the subject cava does, in my opinion, have marked similarities. I liked this a lot and certainly wouldn't mind buying some for the house. Very nice.

My 1st course: Crispy Prawn Wrapped in Fresh Herbs, Rougail Salad and Citrus Dressing.

Mig & Rene each had the Soft Boiled Farm Egg w/ Sea Urchin, Green Pea Broth & Mashed Broccoli for theirs.

For our main courses, we each had the Roast Rib-Eye Beef.
Excellent, especially the rich, savory glaze.

For the rich beef, we opened two bottles of Bordeaux rouge:

1994 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - Having had this just a month and a half before during my 2nd son's birthday dinner, my notes then are as follows:

To my mind, vintage 1994 is an under-appreciated year for Bordeaux, unfairly and pre-maturely judged by many. Many bottles I’ve had over the past 3-4 years have shown that there are, indeed, gems from this misunderstood year, the subject wine and those of Châteaux Haut Brion, Angelus, Vieux Château Certan and Léoville Barton, to name a few, included.

The wine’s notable depth and velvety dark fruit married well with our respective main courses of French Pigeon (above) and 24-Hour Steak (below), buttressed by the former’s firm structure and fine, age-resolved tannins. Its balancing acidity and clean lines gave good cut to the rich dishes; its cedar-violet finish gracefully lingering nostalgic.

2003 Château Ducru Beaucaillou - From Rene, via Clem Nieto. Smokey, roasted-ripe blackcurrants, black cherries and a bit of raspberry, slight underlying tar and pencil lead shavings, bit of mocha, violets and cedar. Full-bodied (a bit on the alcoholic and cumbersome side after the '94 Pichon Lalande), forward, roasted-ripe fruit. Structure is actually pretty good, but the wine's fruit was a bit too sweetly ripe and the alcohol a bit obtrusive for my taste. Rene seemed to like it well enough though.

We got a cheese plate to share in order to finish up the reds. Enky had caught up with us by then and joined us for desserts, which were:

Majestique Chocolate Cake,

Chocolate-Peanut Butter Profiteroles

and Salted Caramel Crème Brûlée.

Until the next!

Dinner for Tita Rose @ Hanakazu.

2011-11-30T14:38:00.005+08:00

I was lucky enough to get a free evening during Tita Rose's (Miguel's mom) busy schedule this trip. I was supposed to take her to Mamou, but, by then, she was already "over-steaked" and preferred lighter Japanese fare. Thus, since she enjoys Hanakazu, on Tuesday, the 22nd November 2011,we had dinner there where Miguel got us a private room. We were only 3 that night as Catha couldn't join us as she had to tend to her mom and Ria couldn't either as she was busy helping their kids with homework.

Tita Rose can't drink anymore so she just had some juice. Mig & I finished 2 bottles of this chilled sake (depicted here with the fried, lightly-battered tuna appetizer). Didn't take particular note of it, but it was a fair enough sake - certainly light years better than the usual house sakes around Metro Manila.

A big platter of Sashimi to start: Toro (Japan), Uni (Japan), Wagyu (Japan) & Shake (I don't know from where the salmon was from). Everything was deliciously fresh; the wagyu like butter.

Hamachi Sushi

Grilled Hamachi Belly

Ebi Tenpura

The sashimi was so good, we simply had to order a second round of it. Mig and I skipped dessert; Tita Rose had some mochi balls which she said were nice. One of the reasons I love Japanese food is that, not only is it a cuisine of freshness which extols nature's beauty, one can also pig out on it and get full but not feel so heavy or guilty after.

Great to have seen Tita Rose on this trip. Hopefully, we get to see her again soon, whether here or in Barcelona next year. In either case, until the next!

La Commanderie de Bordeaux Manila: Brane Cantenac & Clinet Dinner.

2011-11-27T13:12:00.010+08:00

Last night, the 26th November 2011, was La Commanderie de Bordeaux Manila's 3rd Gala (Induction) Dinner. Venue was the Ayala Museum, dinner by Gaita Forés, the wines from Châteaux Brane Cantenac (Margaux) & Clinet (Pomerol); to be inducted into the Commanderie were 9 new members:

Catha & I arrived around half an hour after cocktails began. Becoming quite the rage in Metro Manila (and with good reason as it presents a remarkable QPR in my opinion), the bubbly poured was Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur NV.

Le Menu et Carte du Vin.

Gerry & Tina de Jesus

Edouard Miailhe w/ Catha

Juan Carlos de Terry & William-Alain Miailhe de Burgh

Don & Dorothy Santos

1st Course: Handmade Pappardelle, Bacon, Asiago Cream, Bicol Pili & Watercress

2nd Course: Duck Confit, Potato Gratin, Organic Greens.
This was served with 2006 Château Brane Cantenac and 2007 Château Clinet.

2006 Château Brane Cantenac - From the Margaux appellation, a 2nd Growth under the 1855 Classification, the estate's history can be traced to over 300 years, and came to the family Lurton in 1925 through a purchase by François Lurton together with his father-in-law, Léonce Recapet. Currently, Henri Lurton (François' grandson) owns and controls Brane Cantenac. I vaguely recall being introduced to him by Edouard Miailhe at the dinner of Frédéric de Luze the night before the official start of Vinexpo 2007.

Initially somewhat tight and reticent on the nose, one can perceive the firm tannic structure, neat/classic lines, focus and good acid balance in this. Notable typicity. The cabernet sauvignon dominance is apparent and I do appreciate its typical old-school style (no ham-handed over-extraction, excessive use of new oak or over-indulgent over-ripeness that, lamentably, many Bdx producers resort to in order to garner higher Parker points). Refined, masculine, very clean. Probably 5-6 more years before this starts to come into its own. JC thought this was quite a well-made wine.

2007 Château Clinet - Actually, one of the better (if not the best) 2007 Bdx I've had thus far. 2007 was a very challenging vintage - I know as it was consistently/unusually cold and rainy while I was in Bordeaux for 10 days in June 2007. The nose was not much interesting (probably needed more aeration) but it was quite nice on the palate. Good concentration and over-all showing for the vintage. Surprisingly open at this very early point (like their 2006 when I tasted it in 2007), given my experience with Clinet's older vintages. My hand-written notes state: "Tobacco and greenish plum nose, but in the mouth, nice and round - mocha, (dark) plum, (pipe) tobacco, bit of cinnamon. Good length."

Robert Burroughes w/ Cyrille & Anna Soenen

Jay Labrador w/ Jen Burroughes

The Spouses Ong

The 3rd course was US Angus Bone-In Tenderloin w/ a Cabernet Reduction, Melange of Mushrooms, Organic Baby Carrots & Tagaytay French Beans - served with 2004 Château Brane Cantenac & 2005 Château Clinet, all of which I forgot to photograph. The 2004 Brane Cantenac, again, showed admirable typicity in its hallmark elegant, decidedly masculine style. Given its structure, I would say this will start entering into maturity in around 3-5 more years and last for many more. This is a wine for those who remember, can appreciate and prefer the classic Bordeaux of yore as I do.

The 2005 Clinet, for me, was, among the youngsters, the most open, easily accessible, "crowd-pleaser"; I'd say it was the most immediately enjoyable wine of the night. My notes state: "Very good balance (for such a roasted-hot vintage), very nice, precise weight, rich but controlled, (underlying) milk chocolate notes" (also observed by Jojo Madrid). When exactly did Clinet start producing wines in the early-drinking style? This was certainly not the case before.

Edouard Miailhe & JC de Terry

Sheila Ramos (husband Ivan was camera shy)

JC de Terry w/ Catha

The 4th (cheese) course was a plate of Caramelized Brie de Meaux w/ Dried Fruit & Nuts, which was paired with 2000 Château Brane Cantenac and 2003 Château Clinet. The 2000 Brane Cantenac was my personal favorite of the night, also favored by several other participants I spoke with (including, as I hazily recall, Tito Yuchengco, Sunny Garcia and David Ong) - but, then, that is no great surprise as it is 11 years from an exceptionally good vintage. The 2003 Clinet, I suppose, was fair enough a specimen for the vintage - a vintage I have generally never been fond of as regards wines not only from Bordeaux, but from Burgundy, Alsace, Rioja and Napa as well. I recalled Anne Gros telling me that, in her experience, given 2003's weather, it was very difficult to make a balanced wine that year.

The 5th (dessert) course was Tarte au Chocolat, Raspberry Coulis, Dulce de Leche, Negros Sea Salt Glace. The tarte itself reminded me of the German Cherry-Chocolate Cake that Tina de Jesus makes so well. Delicious. I rarely finish my dessert, but, this time, I did - and quickly.

We, JC de Terry, Don & Dorothy Santos, Christine Miki & Catha,
the few and persistent, were the last to leave (as usual).

Jojo Madrid & yours truly - Until the next!

IWFS Philippines President's Dinner 2011.

2011-11-22T09:52:00.006+08:00

Thursday, the 20th October 2011, was the International Wine & Food Society's (IWFS) Philippine Branch's Annual President's Dinner at Colin Mackay's Sala Restaurant.

Having arrived around half an hour late, I caught up with a glass of Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur - as I wrote a few days ago, this bubbly is "(h)ands-down the very best deal in the country for a non-vintage champagne; available at Premium Wine Exchange for only P2300/bottle retail. Fresh, creamy fruit, notable focus, vivacity, fine mousse, mid-palate and balance. Can't go wrong with this, especially at its very reasonable price."

During cocktails earlier on, it was served with served with canapés of Choux aux Fromage with Almonds, Hot-smoked Tasmanian Ocean Trout with its own Eggs, Oysters with Mignonette.

The Menu

Amuse Bouche

The first course was a Salad of Cured Tasmanian Ocean Trout, Beetroot Jelly, Blue Swimmer Crab & Fennel Remoulade which was paired with 2008 Marc Colin St-Aubin Premier Cru En Remilly. Lightly buttered and baked apple, pear, bit of citrus rind underneath with moderate vanilla, underlying minerality, marzipan and hint of cinnamon. Hefty middle, moderate finish. Acidity and structure were decent enough. Over-all, pretty good, though slightly too forward, low in acid and oaky for my own taste, whether alone or as the pairing wine.

Emcee Bill Stone w/ Hans Brumann (standing), Dong Puno, Gerry de Jesus & David Lim.

The second course was a delicious Confit & Breast of Duck, Root Vegetable Pavé & Quince Sauce which was paired with 2002 Château d'Issan. This, like the Domaine de Chevalier, is one of the very best 2002 Bordeaux rouges I've had thus far. Almost legitimately full-bodied, this is a trim, smoothly muscled light-heavyweight of a wine without the over-wrought, over-extraction of, say, the 2002 Lynch Bages. Warm asphalt, discreet licorice and slight, moist Cuban tobacco infuse its quietly intense black fruit (blackcurrant, black cherry, minor dark raspberry) and underlying dark plum, adorned with gentle cedar and violets.

The fruit is already soft, structure decent, the wine already open and giving. I do not think there is much need to wait longer before enjoying this wine. Very impressive considering the vintage.

Richard & Yuki Joye, Robert & Jen Burroughes, Noel Laman
Martin Kleger & James du Vivier at far right.

Manfred & Chinggay Rode.

The third course was Roast Black Wagyu Striploin, Cereliac Purée
& Morel Jus paired with...

Vintages 1995 & 1996 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux.

Unlike good friends and fellow members, Rene Fuentes, Jr. and Richard Joye, I, personally, have never been a fan of Château Margaux's second wine. In fact, of the 1855 1st growths' second wines, I've only ever purchased Latour's Les Forts and have not, through the years, been able to understand the attraction of Carruades de Lafite (though it is, admittedly, pleasant enough).

Be it as it may, both wines were nice enough specimens, the 1996 much more appealing to me than the 1995 - the latter, as also noted by Richard, being rather tight and reticent (something I've consistently, as compared to their respective 1996s, noted in several 1995 Bdx rouges such as Ducru Beaucaillou, de Fieuzal, Cheval Blanc and Mouton Rothschild, to name a few). The 1996 had notably firm structure, acid backbone, warmly comforting silken fruit, discreet gravel and tobacco notes, graceful violets and cedar. Medium-bodied, self possessed and with good acid balance, it made for a fine match for the melt-in-your-mouth steak and earthy morel jus. To my mind, this was a case wherein the pairing itself transcended the sum of the parts. Good call.

Cecilio Pedro, Louie Lee, Jun Sison, Chinggay & Manfred Rode.

Colin Mackay very busy yet far from flustered in both the kitchen and bar.

My evening's table-mates Brendan Egan & Ernie Fajardo.

The cheese course, Brillat Savarin with Sala's deservedly famous Fruity Bread,
was served to me with (though it should have come much later)...

...a (heavily sediment suspended) vintage port, 1992 Graham Quinta Malvedos.

Louie Lee mugs it up.

The dessert course was a refreshing and complex Stone Fruits Poached in Ederlflower and Vanilla with Mascarpone & Pistachios, which was paired with 2004 Château Doisy Daëne. I've written about this wine several times in the past, so there is no need to repeat myself. I noted that this was the third time we had exact same wine paired with dessert, it being served during last two years' IWFS President's dinners as well.

Mignardises were absolutely lovely Earl Grey & Orange Flower Macarons, Raspberry & Rose Macarons, and decadently complex, Laphroaig & Candied Orange Truffles. Snifters of 1974 Domaine de Jouatmaou Bas Armagnac followed (but I forgot to take a photo of the bottle).

Rene Fuentes, Sr. & Jojo Madrid.

Bill then asked Colin to make an appearance
for which he received a hearty round of applause...

...as well as a special certificate of appreciation from
8 consecutive term IWFS President & Wine Master Bernie Sim...

...after which Oscar Ong led a rousing toast.

Mike Whiting, Brendan Egan, Richard Joye & Manfred Rode.

James du Vivier & Oscar Ong.

Ernie Fajardo, Edwin Ong & Noel Laman.

A bunch of us eventually moved to the patio for some Cuban cigars w/ the Bas Armagnac.

Bill & Uncle David.

Bill Stone, Brendan Egan, Dieter Lonishen
Jay Labrador & Louie Lee.

We, the few and persistent, lingered long after everyone else, including Colin, had left. It was yet another wonderful evening altogether. Though, due to work, I have not been attending our events as regularly as before, I do make it a point to clear the nights for the annual President's Dinner - and I've never yet been let down. The organizers always do a great job. Until the next!

The Manila Gentlemen's Club 2011 AGM & President's Dinner.

2011-11-19T14:51:00.006+08:00

Last night, Wednesday the 18th November 2011, was The Manila Gentlemen's Club Annual General Meeting and President's dinner. Club president Aled Morris organized the food and graciously offered his home as the evening's venue. The evening's menu was prepared and executed by young South African Chef Hylton Le Roux through his new venture, Pi Catering. Hylton's resumé is, indeed, impressive, including stints as chef de partie at no less than Restaurant Gordon Ramsey and Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck. We were only 7 in all, but that was fine for a quorum.

As with any civilized evening, things started off with glasses of bubbly. For this evening, I chose to serve Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur - Hands-down the very best deal in the country for a non-vintage champagne; available at Premium Wine Exchange for only P2300/bottle retail. Fresh, creamy fruit, notable focus, vivacity, fine mousse, mid-palate and balance. Can't go wrong with this, especially at its very reasonable price. The 2 bottles were quickly emptied.

Aled Morris & Robert Burroughes.

John Harvey, Don Gaffney & Richard Everingham.

The Menu

The first course was a superb Tagliatelle w/ Truffle Cream Sauce, Parmesan & Charred Asparagus. No fake synthetic "truffle oil" here; Hylton used an oil with real truffle bits, and the difference was evident in that the pungency and flavors were natural and subtle and not "trying hard" exaggerated. This, as well as the second course of...

...Roast Salmon Persillade atop a Potato & Leek Gallette w/ Broccoli Purée & Mustard Hollandaise were paired with...

2009 Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec - I've had this twice before, the first time was at a Huet tasting at Masseto on 6th January 2011 where it was pretty much unanimously chosen as the favorite of the Huet Secs served that evening. Last I had it was on the 6th May 2011, again at Masseto, during a lunch in honor of Huet proprietor Anthony Hwang. My most recent notes are as follows:

With the Sole, Brown Butter Lemon Sauce & French Beans, we had the 2009 Huet Clos de Bourg Sec. I've had this before at Jojo's Huet Tasting early January of this year during which we had it alongside the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu Sec and the 2006 Huët Vouvray Le Mont Sec. My notes then were as follows (vis-à-vis the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu Sec):

2009 Huët Vouvray Clos de Bourg Sec - There was pretty much a consensus that this was the most favored Sec at this point, with Sevrine, Felicia, Barbara, J-Lab, Richard and myself giving it our nods as such. Notably fleshier, rounder, moderately softer and not as piercing, dry or challenging as the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu. More widely accessible too, I'd wager.

The subject wine was a fine match for the dish. While the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu may have been an acceptable match for the Sole per se, the beurre noisette would have called for something with a little more roundness and heft, which the subject Clos de Bourg aptly supplied. The wine's stony tension and rounded heft played nicely with the nutty browned butter. I had 2 glasses with this course. Lovely.

Last night, it was its usual zingy, racy, vibrantly-fruited self. Dry yet with good fruitiness, remarkably bright, crisp, focused and exhilarating. It's mouth-wateringly captivating acidity gave good (and needed) cut to the pasta's creamy sauce; while the fruitiness served as a refreshing foil to the truffle-earthiness. With the salmon, it being a naturally fatty fish, the wine worked equally as well.

The subject wine's balance and food-friendliness have always made me smile. The others were quite vocal in appreciation as well, punctuated by the 2 bottles quickly running out after the first course amid requests for more. Run, don't walk, as this is readily available at Premium Wine Exchange at a mere P1,400/bottle at full retail.

Coconut & Calamansi (Philippine lime) Sorbet. I usually avoid having sorbets before a flight of reds because of many Manila chefs' recent fascination with aggressively using basil, cassis or calamansi in them - which simply ruin my palate for the reds. This one, however, was gently flavored, with the coconut nicely blending with and easing the calamansi; and, at the same time, refreshed the palate without leaving a strong and disturbingly long after-taste.

With the delectably earthy and indulgent third course of Seared Foie Gras w/ Balsamic-Braised Lentils & Caramelized Cauliflower Purée was paired 2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi Sec. I first had this during dinner with Sandy at Restaurant Gary Danko at the tail-end of a working trip to SF this past July. My notes then were as follows:

We both started with the Lobster Salad with Asian Pear, Mango, Avocado, Cashews and Lime Cilantro Rémoulade. This was very nice, light and refreshingly playful. To pair, I chose the 2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi Sec because I so enjoyed the 2008 Huet Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec during lunch with Domaine Huet proprietor Anthony Hwang this past 16th May 2011. I actually had the 2008 Le Mont Demi Sec earlier this year at the Stockbroker's tasting at Masseto, and figured that the Le Mont, being heftier and buttressed with more toasty leesy notes, would do well with the lobster - and that it did.

For the same reason as above did I choose this wine to pair with Hylton's foie gras dish, and, indeed, it had the right structure, body, comparatively sweeter/richer fruit and acid cut for the dish. Home run here if I do say so myself. Loved it. Available at Premium Wine Exchange for P2000/bottle full retail.

Our fourth and main course was Roasted Duck Breast w/ Confit Pork Belly (topped w/ Home Made Chicharron), Spinach & Pomme Fondant. Fantastic. I must mention that the pomme fondant had a perfectly balanced deep, discreet smokiness and gentle caramelization. Enchanting. With this, we had three Tuscan reds.

2003 Marchesi Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino - This wine spoke of its vintage: comparatively big, mouthfilling, concentrated, lushly full, soft, very ripe (nearing raisined) dark fruit, sweetish, low acid and, I felt, a bit higher than usual in alcohol. A bit of flamboyancy here. With the sweetish pipe tobacco, oak-related vanilla and cocoa notes that infuse the forward, big, warm, soft, very ripe fruit, it is reminiscent of the modern/New World style - which should readily please those partial to the same. Available at Bacchus International.

2004 Marchesi di Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino - With approximately an hour and a quarter's decanting before service, it had a nice masculine bent to it. Structure was firm, maybe just a notch or three over medium-bodied, the fruit neat, self-possessed and proper, bit of dried herbs and violets under there. The mid-palate left a little to be desired, but, in my opinion, this is because the wine is still quite young. That said, this was more my style than the previous wine, and I expect it will gain weight and be more ready in around 3-4 more years. Notable structure and balance. Available at Forth & Tay for P3100+/bottle at full retail.

The 2005 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico I was not able to get to that evening; or if I did, I do not recall now what it was like. All bottles were drained by the time the cigars were brought out. Available at Bacchus International.

Dessert was a neat Panna Cotta w/ Strawberry - please forgive the lousy photo as I was already a bit tipsy by this time and didn't remember to check or take a safety shot. This was paired with...

2001 Tenute Marchese Antinori Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Moderately sweet, raisined sultanas, bit of honey, slight vanilla and an intriguing breath of oxidation. Quite nice, actually, and it was, for me, a hand-in-hand match for the panna cotta.

Hylton joins us for the discussion of the dishes.

Aled was re-elected as club President; John as Cigar Master & I as Wine Master. Richard is now Food Master, giving up the club Secretary position to Robert. Don, with his background in finance is now club Treasurer. We wound up with a bottle of port donated by Robert and some Cuban puros chosen and sourced by John: Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure #2. Excellent draw, burn, smooth creamy smoke and a slightly dryish woody finish. Thereafter, Aled started opening some of his bottles of Marqués de Riscal Rioja Tinto Reserva. Thoroughly enjoyable evening.

Until the next!

The Annual Hagedorn Cup 2011.

2011-11-19T13:17:00.007+08:00

It was that time of the year again that Henry Hagedorn hosted the Hagedorn Cup in celebration of his birthday at The Country Club. Henry holds this annually, one of the ways he celebrates another year younger with his golf friends, of which I have the fortune of being counted among. We show up, play, eat, drink and enjoy, all courtesy of Henry. Thus, on Wednesday, the 16th November 2011, tee off was 10am for 7 flights of friends.

The celebrant-host, Henry Hagedorn, fresh from his runner-up finish
at Calatagan the week before.

"El Kimo", Quito Moras, also a runner-up at the recent Calatagan tournament.

Tito Chito Legarda, always a strong contender at Los Golfos tournaments...

...as are, among others, Bobby Paradies...

...and Tony Olbés.

Jos Moraza hits so long, I'm glad I wasn't born a golf ball.

Godo Juliano - I wish my swing were as relaxed and flowing as his.

Miguel "Don't touch the hair!" Moras, with eternal flight-mate...

...the high-finishing Tito Reynoso.

La Salle Sports Hall of Famer Mackie Cui.

Fellow Atenean (we are so few in this group of La Sallistas) Mari Cacho.

Regular Saturday Alabang flight-mate Raffy Villarreal.

Regular Los Golfos flight-mates Jaime Ugarte...

...and Louie Zabaljauregui.

Though I started off well enough for me, I made the mistake of reading and responding to work-related texts on hole #7 - and that killed my game. I simply couldn't recover after. Unperturbed, however, I enjoyed the rest of the game and, of course, Henry's heavily-stocked merienda-cena buffet at the clubhouse.

Henry all freshened up and ready for the large bottles of Johnnie Walker Double Black.

Pinggoy Mañosa, Jos & Quito.

Godo, Mari & Johnny-Mike Llamas.

Difficult decisions for Jaime as the buffet had so much food. I myself attacked the Pancit Palabok and Roast Chicken (the sauce of which was particularly good) and started off with one of many Double Rum Cokes. Since I didn't bring a driver, I laid off the beer and refrained from indulging in the Double Black and large bottles of Stolichnaya Vodka (Mackie took care of the latter).

Louie, Douglas and others took an outer table to enjoy more the late afternoon breeze.

...and the winner of The Hagedorn Cup 2011 is...

...Bobby Paradies with a net 9 under par.

Aside from his trophy, Bob received a flat screen TV from Henry as a prize.

The waitstaff serve a deliciously moist birthday cake.

With Double Black in hand, Henry blows out the candle.
Happy Birthday, Don Henry!!!

Drinking into the night.

Art Zuluaga with Mackie (who looks really buzzed at this point).

Henry just loves teasing Tito Chito (who can certainly give as well as he takes).

Mackie, Tito, Raffy, Tito Chito & Miguel.

Jos, drink and cigar in hand, joins in on the ribbing.

It was such a fun day; many thanks again, Henry, for everything,
...and, once more, happy birthday!

Jerome's Wine Lunch @ the Prince Albert Rotisserie.

2011-11-06T15:53:00.003+08:00

Lunch of the 19th October 2011 was at a small private room of the Intercontinental Hotel's Prince Albert Rotisserie for Jerome Philippon's private presentation of some personally select wines from Italy.

Yes, Manila's French Wine Crusader now also carries wine from Italy via his Sommelier Selection. I knew he was about this since we were communicating via SMS and e-mail while he was in Italy during his wine search. Until the subject lunch, however, I had not tried any of them. We were 5 in all including Richard Joye, Vicki Aldaba and her friend Tere.

It just so happened that the Prince Albert had an on-going mushroom festival, so Jerome had the very capable young Chef Antony Page create a "relatively light" pairing lunch menu for us.

Antony Page with Intercontinental's F&B Manager Laurent Casteret.

We started off with some bubbly of course, the Domaine André et Mireille Tissot Indigène Crémant du Jura. I first tried this back in late November 2010. My notes then were as follows:

Hmmm...probably my first bubbly from the Jura region that is not a predominantly poulsard-based Bugey Cerdon. Per Jérôme, this bio-dynamically produced bubbly is a champagnesque blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Bright, vibrant and lively with well-focused, clean lines of soft, creamy apple, pear, white flowers, slight minerals and a whisper of caramel, this also presented an entertaining, underlying white chocolate- milkiness that I associate with pinot noir in young champagnes. Nice, entertaining and dangerously drinkable, this is a good and, at approximately P2500/bottle, more-or-less, full retail*, definitely affordably-priced alternative to champagne - perfect for Christmas get-togethers.

Now, almost a year later, this bubbly is as lively and charming as ever, its soft, pinot noir-milky, creamy fruit delightful to hold mid-mouth making it very easy to enjoy and drink a lot of. I actually had to hold myself back so as not to get quickly tipsy before lunch proper began. Fortunately, I did not have long to wait.

Fricasée of Wild Mushrooms, Cèpe & Thyme Brioche w/ Truffle Herb Salad
If I recall correctly, the deeply flavored glaze was made with porcini.

With this was paired a light, charming, nicely quaffable 2010 Domaine Mittnacht Frères Pinot Noir (from Hunawihr, Alsace; biodynamic since 1999) - light-bodied but not definitively pinot noir flavored with amiable cherry, bit of raspberry and underlying dark plum. Vibrantly fresh, openly honest and bright, this is a very nice casual sipping lunch wine suited for our tropical clime. Jerome and Richard noted it would be very nice at the beach or during a late afternoon sip. I agreed. At only P1,075 at full retail, it's an easy buy.

Next was a Crisp Skin Duck Breast w/ Cherry Purée, Judas Ear Mushroom Mille Feuille & Sautéed Swuiss Chard...

...which we enjoyed with a 2005 Podere Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino Piaggone - Moderately rich with deep, ripely sweetish concentrated cherry, raspberry and strawberry and touches of underlying dark minerals, pipe tobacco and vanilla. Softly fruited, smooth, almost chewy and aspiring to full-bodiedness. Slightly low on acid. Nicely layered. A confident wine with a moderately long finish. Easy to like. Not cheap at P4,070 full retail, but one will get one's money's worth in my opinion.

A fine pairing for the magret de canard.

With the Australian Lamb Rack, Beetroot Risotto, Porcini Ragout, Girolles & Herb Crumbs...

...2005 Castello di Verduno Barolo Vigna Massara - Still very young, swirling encourages its youthful tightness to reveal roses, cedar and pine needle topnotes, clean dark red berries, underlying tar, leather and tobacco leaf. Notable over-all neatness and lean, clean lines. Admirable purity, firm structure and acid balance. Good balance and very good typicity. Very nice, especially with the earthy lamb dish. At P3,915 full retail, I recommend this either to age or enjoy with decanting paired with hearty roast or grilled meat courses.

Richard chats with the chef.

A Selection of French & Italian Cheeses w/ Baguette, Cepe Butter, Membrillo & Apples helped finish my share of the Barolo, and, thereafter, Jerome opened a...

2007 Domaine Bellivière Coteaux du Loir L'Effraie (Sec Tendre) - This is a pretty and racy slightly off-dry wine of pure chenin blanc from the Coteaux du Loir appellation (north of Tours in the Loire). Nicely bright fresh and tense peach, ripe apricot and lemon with suggestions of wild honey and herbs. Perfect with the blue cheese and a bit of the membrillo. An easy buy at P1420 full retail.

Jerome then opened up yet another bottle of the Indigène Crémant du Jura for us all to "wash" our palates. I've learned to love this post meal "washing off" with a good bubbly - something of a dining ritual I learned in Spain. Thanks again, Jerome! Until the next!

Almost a Wine Dinner @ Tivoli.

2011-11-04T22:56:00.008+08:00

Dinner of Saturday, the 8th October 2011, was at Tivoli of the Mandarin Oriental Manila. It's been quite a while since I've eaten there. Time was, the Stockbroker, Doc & I would hold almost weekly wine lunches there - that is until they revoked the old IWFS corkage arrangement - then we moved to Old Manila, RED, and, thereafter, other restaurants, the management of which treated good customers better corkage-wise*.

*I don't mind paying corkage, but I find corkage above P600/bottle unreasonable for regular customers.

We'd also have dinner with the wives at Tivoli every once in a while, but I stopped going for the same reasons as lunch. I did return once with the Vigneron for lunch several months ago - just to try out their new chef, but that's about it.

In any event, during a Vega Sicilia dinner at Enderun's Restaurant 101 in mid-September, I met Javi Berenguer-Testa, Asst. F&B Manager of the Mandarin Oriental, (we were at the same table), mentioned my "history" with Tivoli. Javi encouraged me to give the Tivoli another chance and said he may be able to get me a little discount on corkage. Thus, on the subject night, I took Catha and the youngest there for dinner (the two teenagers were out at parties).

Terrine of Quail w/ Arugula as a slightly gamey amuse bouche.
I've never really found quail itself that interesting, and this was no different.

I had the Lobster Bisque to start. Excellent. For me, far better than
those of Old Manila or RED which I find ham-handed with cream and flavors.

Catha started with the Foie Gras au Torchon which she really liked. Very creamy. She shared a bit with the youngest - who said he still prefers Marc Aubry's foie gras at Champêtre.

The youngest had the Broccoli Soup which he disliked.

Apparently he expected a cream of broccoli soup, which this wasn't. That should teach him to read the menu more carefully - a good lesson to learn early in life. I told him he didn't have to force himself to drink it, but he should be more careful next time.

Anyway, he had also ordered a Steak Tartare.

The Steak Tartare. The youngest took this photo. He also took a chunk out of it before taking the shot. Like at the Intercontinental Hotel's Prince Albert Rotisserie, one is given a small taste before plating to allow for adjustment of seasoning to taste. I asked them to add a bit more capers - and the resulting dish was fine. The youngest said he preferred the steak tartare at The Goose Station and Antonio's, but he ate this happily enough.

Catha & the youngest had an order each of the Magret de Canard. I tasted it and it was fine.

My Herb-Crusted Lamb main course was pretty good - tender, juicy enough. The crust was a bit unevenly seasoned (some parts had too much black pepper), but it was still quite good.

As regards wine, I had brought along a bottle of 1990 Château Petit Village, which, unfortunately, was badly corked - so I had it removed from the table. Pity. This is a very good Pomerol which I had very much enjoyed twice before, the last time being at a dinner for Clem Nieto at Tita Bella's in early September.

I had asked for the wine list, but nothing interested me except for a "1996 Château Haut Brion" for just under P14,000.00 (i.e., under US$325; which is materially below retail both here and in the US). I ordered it, but, tragically, when they presented the bottle to me, it turned out to be a 1996 Larrivet Haut Brion (which retails in the US for a mere US$30-US$40). Larrivet Haut Brion is a minor château of Pessac Léognan - a far cry from the 1855 1st growth Haut Brion despite its similar name and being in the same AOC of Pessac Léognan.

I wondered then who was it who made this wine list and its pricing - he/she must either be quite careless or doesn't know his/her wine. I'd be willing to pay maybe P3,500-P4,000 for a 1996 Larrivet Haut Brion in Tivoli, but, just under P14,000? Yeah, right. That'll be the day.

Only the youngest was in the mood for dessert, so he ordered some Chocolate Ice Cream...

...while Catha & I settled for double espressos with the Mignardises.

Nice enough meal in all. The lobster bisque was my highlight of the meal - and the lamb was more than acceptable. I think Catha had a much better meal than I that night. Hopefully, my other bottles of the 1990 Petit Village at home won't be corked.

Clams, Crabs & Txakoli @ Dad's.

2011-11-04T14:10:00.003+08:00

Dinner of Saturday the 17th September 2011 was at Dad's - fresh seafood - no usual heavy steak or lamb or kare-kare this time. We had some noodles as well, but that was about it.

Scallops flash grilled w/ butter, garlic & chopped parsley.

Steamed Clams.

Alimasag (Sea/Blue Crabs) à la Thanh Long...

...with matching pasta noodles.

Steamed Alimango (mud crabs) & Pitik (slipper lobster).

Ginatang Talangka (small local shore crabs cooked in coconut milk).

To tie in all these seafood delights, I opened my last bottle of 2009 ItsasMendi Nº 7 Txakoli. Aaron & I import this typical Basque white from D.O. Gernika, Bizkaiko Txakolina, País Vasco so I have, in the past, refrained from writing any notes on it. But, since it's been all sold out for almost a year, I can now do so.

Still very dry but with more rounded middle fruit (white grapefruit, green apple, slight pear) than other txakolis like, say, the bone-dry, delightfully cheek-cutting Txomin Etxaniz from D.O. Getariako Txakolina, this is also less spritzy. With added saline and crushed seashell nuances, it was perfect for our seafood meal. Dad liked it so much he ordered a couple of cases should we bring in more in the future. Fresh fruits ended an atypically healthy dinner at Dad's.

A Birthday Dinner @ Champêtre.

2011-11-02T19:45:00.004+08:00

This past Saturday, the 30th October 2011, was dinner in belated celebration of the youngest's birthday. The past few years, I've been opening birthyear wines for the teenagers and figured to start this year for the youngest.

The week before, I mentioned him that I'd be doing so, and, in so mentioning, added that his was a good vintage for Burgundy. He asked me what cuisine would go well with them and I, of course, replied "French". His immediate reply was: "Champêtre it is then." We were 6 in all, the celebrant inviting Zach, his best friend who also happens to be his cousin closest in age. We started off with lots of appetizers:

Marc's signature Terrine of Foie Gras (2 orders).

Another of Marc's staples, Escargots à la Bourguignonne (2 orders).

Marc also happened to have some Moules de Bouchot à la Marinière w/ Frites
from Brittany that night, so, of course, we had to have some too.

Aside from our usual Portobello w/ Oeuf Cocotte,...

...we also had a "new" version thereof with ceps instead of portobellos.

Both the celebrant and the second wanted some Steak Tartare, so we had some as well.

The little ones really dug the Steak Tartare.

The wines I brought for the evening were, as mentioned, both Burgundies from the youngest's birthyear: 1999 Domaine Louis Carillon Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru Les Perrières for the appetizers & 1999 Domaine Jayer-Gilles Grand Cru Echézeaux du Dessus for the main courses (the latter a gift from Clem Nieto - thanks, Clem!).

1999 Domaine Louis Carillon Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru Les Perrières - Several years ago, as I was deepening my knowledge of Burgundy's wines, Bernie Sim told me that Domaine Louis Carillon was one of Puligny Montrachet's best producers. Knowing that Les Perrières was one of the appellation's best premier crus, I didn't hesitate in snapping up the bottles of 1999s I saw available at Cellaraiders sometime in April or May this year (1999 was a pretty good vintage for the Côte de Beaune, generally speaking).

Me during a very hot summer's day in Puligny Montrachet, July 2006 (so I really needed that hat to keep my forehead from burning to a crisp).

I took care not to over-chill this bottle unlike the last time at Elbert's. A few notches over medium-bodied, with moderately rich, ripe, slightly honeyed, slight vanilla and almond paste-infused, pillowy apple and pear. Structure is more than decent; the middle definitive, balance is definitely good; and, the finish moderately long, confident, with the vaguely nutty clarified butter and honeysuckle notes trailing. In all, a lovely wine which went notably well with the steak tartare, but was way too rich for the moules (a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé would have done infinitely better for those plump little mollusks).

The teenagers.

Catha and the eldest each had the Algerian Couscous for their main courses, grilled the lamb chops and megruez of which Catha shared with the youngest & Zach.

The Algerian couscous comes with a mildly
stew of lamb, chicken, tomato, chick peas, etc. & spicy Harissa sauce.

The second, ever the gastronomically adventurous one,
had Marc's special main course for that night - Civet of Wild Boar.

Having had rib-eye twice the day before (i.e., roast beef at Impressions for lunch & teppanyaki for dinner at home), I hesitated ordering the massive Dry-Aged Bone-In Rib-Eye (Kosh Sehwani's Alternative Food Corp. supplies the excellent meat) for my main course. The youngest & Zach, however, promised to help me eat it, so I got it - and good thing I did as it was simply superb. Nicely seared, juicy, not sinewy at all, not overly fatty, nicely nutty and slightly cheesy as a well dry-aged steak should be. I only had a few bites (as I was over-steaked) but the little ones literally ate this to the bare bone.

The 1999 Domaine Jayer-Gilles Grand Cru Echézeaux du Dessus had no problem standing up to the steak - so easily, actually, that I was a little surprised. The nose of this wine was certainly seductive - come-hither lightly truffled, slightly gamey (nb: the du Dessus lieu dit closest to Grands Echézeaux) very ripe, molten, deep plum, black cherry and berry compote with the beginnings of Burgundy decay. Its nose was darkly mirrored on the palate (with added whispers of sarsaparilla, vanilla and nutmeg), in a mouth-filling, generous body of rather rustic character and smoothly dense, softly-chewy texture. I recalled a couple of DRC's Echézeaux and Grands Echézeaux not as heavy or dense as this. The finish was slightly clipped (Marc noted this too), but the nose more than made up for it.

Knowing that chestnuts were available again, my kids and I each had Marc's ethereal (and long awaited) Chestnut Soufflé w/ Chestnut-Armagnac Ice Cream & Caramel Sauce. This is not on the menu, but Marc will make it upon request. Fantastic. You simply must - with a good, preferably aged, Alsatian gewürztraminer VT or SGN, even better.

Marc watches the kids enjoy their soufflés (Zach, being glucose-challenged, passed on dessert - such fine discipline he has).

Tired but happy from another fully-packed night, Marc stayed to chat with us (though I spied a couple of more tables turn over even at the time). He kindly offered us some digestifs, but we, regretfully, had to decline as we had to drop the eldest of at a house nearby for his class' early Halloween party - so Marc gave us a couple of bags of Dark Chocolate Truffles to bring along. It was yet another wonderful meal at Champêtre. Great, honest food with a relaxed ambiance - it always feels like home to me. It is no wonder my family and I choose to dine here so often - moreso when there is an occasion to celebrate. Happy birthday again, J.

Dinner & Wines @ Sala for Clem.

2011-11-01T16:38:00.003+08:00

The 6th September 2011, the night after Tita Bella's lavish dinner, a few other Usual Suspects got together at Colin Mackay's Sala Restaurant for another dinner for visiting Wineberserker Clem Nieto. We were only 5 in all this time: Clem, the Stockbroker, J-Lab, Aaron and I.

Clem (on the right) and I were the first to arrive, followed shortly by the Stockbroker and J-Lab. Aaron got stuck in traffic and just caught up after our first courses. At the outset, I uncorked my bottle of red and set it aside. The Stockbroker decanted his bottle in secret and told us to have it as the evening's last red.

As always, I had the Double Baked Prawn & Feta Cheese Soufflé w/ Dill (and so did Clem). The Stockbroker, J-Lab and, eventually, Aaron went for the Crab Cakes. With these fine first courses we enjoyed a...

2000 Domaine Ramonet Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet - from Clem (I brought along a 1999 Domaine Carillon Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru Perrières as a back-up white, but we didn't need it). Initially rather metallic and tight, it also had a too-old clarified butter odor which, thankfully, blew off in around 5-10 minutes. Thereafter, it settled in nicely and started to expand as time went by, eventually displaying a couple of shades over medium-bodied, lightly baked/honeyed ripe apple and pear, lemon custard, seamless minerality, French butter and a suggestion of hazelnut towards the back.

Notably layered; the lemon notes emerged more as it warmed up. Lovely wine. Despite its apparent richness, it certainly had the acid balance to make for an excellent pairing for my favorite savory soufflé.

My main course of Rack of Lamb, chosen to go with both Bordeaux and Burgundy rouge.

We started the reds off with a 1990 Château Ducru Beaucaillou - from yours truly (we had decided that 3 reds would be enough for the evening, so Aaron's 1982 Château Brane Cantenac was handed down a suspended sentence). This was the 3rd bottle of this wine I had opened since the beginning of September 2011, showing almost exactly the same as the last one...

With a definitive strike, proper mid-mouth breadth and weight and a moderately long finish, this showed off its pedigree in its slightly minty, anise, cedar/violets-infused black fruit and underlying tar/black gravel/asphalt. A notch or two under full-bodiedness, this exuded good, depth, complex layering, precise reserve and good balance. With a bit more time in the glass, dark/bitter chocolate emerged to join the tar and anise notes.

...except that I drank up before it could gain the weight the previous one had achieved or show the chocolate notes. Typical, refined, right and proper 2nd growth St-Julien. I liked it. Next was a...

1999 Domaine Gros Frères et Soeur Grand Cru Richebourg - from Clem. Lovely nose with sous bois and romantic Burgundy decay already peeking through the deep, dark, soy and discreetly spiced, softly rich fruit. Old violets, earth, ceps, lavender, licorice. Serene. Harmonious. Lovely, lovely wine. Should just get better and better over the next 8-10 years is my guess. What a treat.

We had all pretty much gone through our main courses by the time we got to the evening's third red - so we ordered a cheese plate to share for it.

1991 Domaine Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon - from the Stockbroker. A big change - very ripe and concentrated, virtually liqueur-like, definitely full-bodied and then some. The comparatively dense and jammy fruit is bolstered further by dark minerality, hints of black pepper and earthy meatiness. Long and strong. Many years to go on this one. Should go with a big dry-aged bone-in rib-eye steak at Mamou.

Dessert for me was a Mango & Passionfruit Pavlova which I shared with Clem. Nobody else wanted to end on a sweet note, so J-Lab's 2002 Oremus Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos was kept for another day.

A few coffees and double espressos later, we called it a night - and what a night it was. Thanks again, Clem!

Dinner for the Nietos @ Tita Bella's.

2011-11-01T12:12:00.010+08:00

Early September 2011 saw a trio of dinners in honor of fellow wino & Wineberserker Clem Nieto who, with better half Loidy, were in for a visit from Orange County, California. The first dinner, the 5th September 2011 to be exact, was graciously executed by Tita Bella at her place. We were eight in all, with the Nietos, Miguel & Ria Vecin, Rene & Aimee Fuentes, Catha & I.

Seated: Aimee, Loidy & Catha
Standing: Miguel, Rene & Clem (Ria arrived a little later)

Despite a broken foot due to an unfortunate fall,
Tita Bella, chic as ever in her wheelchair, still managed to execute stunning dishes.

As always, we started off with glasses of chilled bubbly. That night, it was a 2000 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoch Champagne Brut from Rene - Aside from its brightness and vivacity, a creamy, slightly biscuity, bready-yeasty, rounded underbelly was quite apparent. Notable structure in this. Very nice and enjoyable now (all too easy to drink a lot of this), and will, I expect, gain even more complexity and depth after, say, 3 years. Something to grab a few bottles of, I mentally noted.

We eventually moved to the dining room,
the table's new centerpiece catching my eye,...

...where we settled in for dinner proper.

The Menu

Amuse Bouche of Salmon Parfait w/ Chive Oil,
Roasted Baby Beets w/ Crispy Chicken Skin & Dijon Vinaigrette.

By this time, we began making headway into a different bottle of vintage champagne...

2002 Dom Pérignon - from Clem, this seemed quite youthfully/tightly wound in its bright, green, crisp apple and bit of pear and white citrus, slight underlying honeyed notes, vanilla-like leesiness towards the back. I'm pretty sure I've had this relatively new vintage before, but I can't seem to find any notes on it. This I enjoyed with the amuse bouche (well, two of them as I asked for seconds).

With the following Variations of Duck Foie Gras:
Duck Confit & Foie Gras Dumpling w/ Port-Balsamico Glaze;
Sautéed Foie Gras w/ Orange Compote &
Foie Gras Crème Brûlée...

...we enjoyed two (2) bottles (one each from Rene & Miguel) of 2008 Dönnhoff Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese - Bright acid cut to this and notable focus and definition, it seemed not nearly as ripely sweet or eager to please as the 2009 version, but, with the foie, especially the crème brûlée variant (of which Clem and I had 2 servings), it lent superb cut and contrast.

Clem & Ria

I've not had anything from Dönnhoff that I've not liked (in varying degrees of course). The two bottles virtually disappeared in a trice as the ladies liked this a lot as well with the next course of...

...an absolutely lovely, addictive Seared Lychee Scallop in Champagne Butter Sauce.

Loidy, Rene & Catha

The reds for the evening were several, a couple decanted beforehand, one just slo-oxed, and the rest kept closed and waiting on the side lines in case TCA dared rear its ugly head. We chose only three reds for the night so as to be able to give them proper respect and attention. They were all meant to go with the fork-tender, juicy, earthy meat course of...

...Angus Rib-Eye, Mushroom Sauce w/ Truffle Paste & Risoni.

First of the reds was a 1976 López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva - from Clem. My mind snapped back to a year and a half ago when Eric Recto opened this blind for the Doc & the Stockbroker. I was in the Rioja region at the time but the latter two mentioned via text or FB (I can't remember exactly now) that they had guessed it to be an aged Burgundy (the Stockbroker even venturing it being from Gevrey Chambertin). Ethereal in its silken, medium-bodied, spiced dark red fruit (more raspberry, cherry and underlying plum), leather, slight tobacco leaf, cedar violets and gentle balsamico. An elegant beauty of a wine.

Next on deck was a 1990 Château Petit Village - from yours truly (my 1985 Château Gruaud Larose beside it was given a suspended sentence that night). I had opened a bottle of this not 2 months earlier at Rocky & Apple's place in Hillsborough. My notes at the time, still applicable, were as follows:

The above-depicted bottle of 1990 Château Petit Village, on the other hand, presented dark, smoldering, powerful fruit on a heftier, more rounded body with evidently greater depth and complexity. Velvety on the palate; a comparatively more pronounced middle and superior length and over-all balance and harmony. This was much more of a complete wine. Beautiful wine. We were all in agreement that this was clearly a superior wine....

Deep, serious ripe plum, black cherry, bit of raspberry liqueur, underlying pipe tobacco, hints of old worn leather and smoke, violets and cedar. Very rounded mouthfeel. Just a notch or two under legitimate full-bodiedness, this had a slightly chewy, rich, velvety texture. Smoldering, serious, quiet power. Loved it. Happy I was able to eventually buy more.

2001 Château Mouton Rothschild - From Clem. This big fellow was obviously the one we decanted for the longest time possible. Crème de cassis at the fore, black cherries pushing from behind - surfacing more just past mid-mouth. Steady dark plum, black gravel and licorice underneath, with chocolate and vanilla become apparent towards the back. Violets join in the long finish. Rounded tannins. Powerful wine for sure. Still quite primary at this stage, but a truly a treat to get to try at this early point. Good thing we decided to have this as the 3rd red as it would have steamrolled over the previous 2.

Aside from my above-mentioned 1985 Château Gruaud Larose,...

... Miguel's 1990 Château Gruaud Larose...

...and Clem's 2003 Château Ducru Beaucaillou were spared that evening.

Our cheese course in a glass: Caramelized Goat's Cream Cheese w/ Truffle Oil which I had with the last bit of the 2008 Dönnhoff Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese.

Dessert was a cool, light, cleansing and refreshing
Chilled Watermelon, Peach & Mango Soup

Many thanks again to Tita Bella for the wonderful meal despite your injury - truly above and beyond any call of duty or generosity - and to Clem & Loidy for, yet again, sharing with us your fine wines and company. Until the next!

Vega Sicilia in Manila...Again.

2011-10-30T16:44:00.004+08:00

Back on the 10th April 2008, through the kindness of JC de Terry, I attended a stunning Vega Sicilia dinner at Terry's 2º Piso in honor of Pablo Álvarez, Vega Sicilia's Director General.

JC de Terry & Pablo Álvarez

Almost three and a half years later, on the 12th and 13th September 2011, Catha & I attended two more, both in honor of visiting Vega Sicilia Export Manager, Puri Mancebo.

Puri Mancebo

Monday, the 12th September was a wine, food and music pairing affair at Enderun College’s Restaurant 101; Chef Nicolas Cantrel’s French pairing courses marked by studied precision.

My table @ Restaurant 101 with Mikel Arriet, Catha,
David Lim, Javi Berenguer-Testa & Katrina Holigores.

Tuesday’s Spanish menu at Terry’s 2º Piso bore JC’s hallmark depth, complexity and passion.

At Terry's: Usual Suspects Rene, Aaron, J-Lab, the Stockbroker & myself.

While both menus more than did justice to the wines, the following were my standouts:

2009 Oremus Mandolás Dry Tokaji with the amuse bouche of Crema de Queso de Cabra de Poitou al Perfume de Salchichón de Montánchez y Bálsamo de Arbequina - In this marriage, the lush wine’s complex, medium-bodied vanilla-touched fruit gave brightening lift to the rich goat cheese, while its long finish intertwined gracefully with the gamey breath of salchichón (Terry's dinner).

JC w/ Pedro & Regina Roxas, Gema Garcia & Barbara Aboitiz.

2006 Pintia with Medallones de Bacalao en Camita de Lentejas Estofadas al Humo de Panceta Ibérica – The bacalao underscored the wine’s bold, warm, well-ripened, sweetish dark berries; while the earthy lentejas played nicely the wine’s judicious smoky oak-related spice undertones (Terry's dinner).

Mari de Terry, Puri Mancebo, JC & Heny Sison.

2007 Alión with Magret de Canard aux Cerises – A French classic meets a modern interpretation on Ribera del Duero. The Alión’s firm structure and masculine, self-possessed lush blackberry, black cherry, new leather, slight anise, violets and lavender notes made for a precisely balanced, naturally harmonious match (Enderun dinner).

JC w/ the Stockbroker, Bernie Sim & Freddy Pio de Roda

It was likewise up to the task for JC's generously earthy and deeply complex Falda de Ternera en Salsa Española al Tempranillo Sobre Ragú de Boletus en Crema de Cuscús al Manchego Joven (Terry's dinner).

Gema Garcia & Catha enjoying the 2000 Único at Enderun.

The 2006 Valbuena 5º was, at this point, personally my favorite of all the wines of both dinners. It went beautifully with the respective meat courses of both dinners. With Cantrel's Souris d’Agneau Braisée, remarkable depth, neat focus, clarity, polish and balance mark this quietly dignified wine, its admirable structure lending precise counterpoint to the hearty, rustic dish (Enderun dinner). Elegance in a glass.

Abba Napa had just flown in from Paris, but made sure to attend the Terry's dinner.

Vintages 2000 & 1999 of Vega Sicilia’s flagship Único were served with the cheese courses at both events: Cancoillotte from the Franche-Comté (with the 2000, Enderun dinner), and, a trio of Manchego Viejo, Fleur de Surreau and Brie de Meaux with Black Perigord Truffles (with the 1999, Terry's dinner). These wines are virtually immortal, typically released over a decade from harvest, they take many, many more years to mature; and they last for ages.

I first tried the 2000 Único a year and a half ago at Terry's (it wasn't even officially labeled yet as you can see from the above photo, the bottle a gift to JC from Pablo Álvarez) and it was understandably reticent then, needing extended breathing and swirls to elicit intricate notes of deep red cherry, black currant, strawberry, violets, new leather, some raspberry, cedar, underlying minerality, licorice and plum. Now, despite its serious structure, it is more open and accessible. The 1999, on the other hand, has an inherently friendlier personality, showing more complexity now in a comparatively warmer, softer, velvety texture.

Aaron Palileo savors some white.

Both evenings ended on the sweet, floral notes of the 2002 Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, respectively paired with Pain Perdu aux Épices (Enderun dinner) and Una Sinfonía de Dulzáinas Hispano-Húngaras (Terry's dinner; above photo). From Vega Sicilia’s winery in the Hungarian Tokaj-Hegyalja region, this is a traditional sweet white made from botrytis cinerea affected furmint, hárslevelu and moscatel de grano menudo. Though intensely sweet with typical flavors of spicy dried/candied apricot, pineapple, peach and ripe pear with hints of vanilla and candied orange rind, it was gracefully balanced by bright acidity.

Reminiscing on these dinners, I cannot help but think how lucky we are that Vega Sicilia’s entire line is locally available in Manila, albeit in limited quantities. ¡De nuevo un millón de gracias, Sr. Don de Terry!

The Stockbroker's Birthday Dinner 2011 @ Mamou Too!

2011-10-12T21:18:00.008+08:00

This past Tuesday night, the 11th October 2011, was the Stockbroker's birthday blow-out for some of the guys. Our venue was the relatively new branch of Mamou at Rockwell, Mamou Too! All the wines came from his vast collection, including a mini-horizontal of 1996 Bordeaux rouge. We were only 5 in all since Rene had a lot of work and an early flight the next day.

I got stuck in some rush-hour Makati traffic and was the last to arrive at around 7pm. By the time I arrived, the guys had already made headway into some glasses of...

1996 Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin La Grande Dame - My last notes on this vintage of La Grande Dame was from another of the Stockbroker's 1996 horizontals back in mid-May 2009, that time of northern Rhône reds. Those notes included even earlier notes from back on the 29th June 2008, to wit:

Last I had this was almost a year ago, on 29th June 2008, at a 1996 all 1st Growth (1855 Classification) dinner, so it was great to see how it was coming along. My last notes were as follows:

Clean, pure white fruit attack turns floral, very toasty and mildly yeasty the moment it hits mid-palate, where it expands generously and gains substantial creaminess towards the back. Sucking in a bit of air once the bubbles allow emphasizes the toastiness. This bubbly certainly wasn't shy; it was eager to please, displayed proudly mid-mouth with a funneling exit of added citrus notes.

This time, the bouquet and flavors were much more layered and complex, displaying a most alluring mix of dried apricot, sultanas, brioche and coffee, mildly toasty, honeyed with a pronounced creamy-biscuity character. There was notably more heft, mid-palate roundness and length than before as well. Excellent bubbly, it made the last one I had seem comparatively linear and simple.

This past Tuesday night, it was similar to the last time, but even more open, with oxidative and nutty notes adding even more complexity to the wine as a whole. Very nice indeed.

For the couple of orders of Pasta Bottarga, a bottle of 2004 R & V Dauvissat Chablis Premier Cru La Forest - I had a bunch of 2004 Chablis village, 1er and grand crus from various producers back in 2006 (mostly in Paris, Chablis, Beaune and Vezelay) and a few 2007 (well, maybe one or two 2008, I can't really remember now). This is surely the first 2004 Chablis I've had in 2011 though. I know I've had at least 3 Dauvissat La Forests before, 2 of which I recall from the Doc, but I can't find any of my notes thereon.

In any event, this is readily pleasing now, with a moderate, past-mid-mouth creaminess/softness to its cold steel, flinty seashell, brioche, vanilla and white flower nuanced, fresh pear and apple. On the surface and from attack there is a nice crispness; from mid-palate towards the rear the fruits' softness becomes apparent. Its good focus, neatness, decently firm/steely backbone and moderately bright acidity were enough to keep everything balanced and refreshing. Very nice.

Greg, Miguel, Aaron & the Stockbroker.

For the couple of hunks of US Prime Grade Steaks and several bowls of
Red Steak Rice...

...we enjoyed three 1996 left banks:

1996 Château Léoville Poyferré - The most full-bodied, modern, lushly/ripely fruited, concentrated and extracted of the three (lowest acidity too). Chocolate (think Raisinets or Cadbury's Fruit & Nut with the chocolate a few shades darker) on the nose and on the palate. Bit of a dried fig nuance there as well. As much a crowd-pleaser as ever it was the first I had it from the Doc at a dinner at home around 5½-6 years ago. A hedonist's Bdx rouge. Nice with the steak, immediately and undeniably pleasing and easily approachable. There is no intellectual discourse to be had here. This is for sheer pleasure - and why the hell not?

1996 Château Léoville Barton - Typically neat, trim, with not a strand of hair out of place - veddy British I'd say. Medium-bodied, clean, comparatively lean, definitely polished and refined. Clean sheets of blackcurrant, blackcherry and, towards the back, some raspberries, cedar, violets with an underlying sheet of pencil lead and dark minerality. Finish could be just a bit longer, but that's picking nits. Right and proper balanced and harmonious Léoville Barton.

1996 Château Lynch Bages - I started buying this 1996 with Tonji sometime in the early 2000s - the first time I had it was at Sylvia's parents' cabin in Tagaytay Highlands I vividly recall (How could I not? We left the coffee maker on when we left and Sylvia's mom was less than happy about that omission). Since then, I've had many, many bottles of this. Judging from this bottle, this wine has mellowed quite a bit, its previously persistent drive/push is no longer as it once was. More self-possessed, quietly complex and intellectual now - cedar, violets, whisper of camphor, underlying tobacco and gravel seamlessly intertwine its introspective dark fruit.

I had the steak mainly with the Poyferré and the Barton and Lynch Bages alone.

There were at least 6 or 7 birthday celebrations at the restaurant on the subject evening (must have been those cold January nights back then); but the Stockbroker was discreet about his. However, Greg tipped off one of the waiters, which resulted in...

...the Stockbroker's receiving a vigorous birthday serenade
and a single candle adorned mini red velvet birthday cake.

Many thanks and Happy Birthday again, buddy! Until the next!

Couscous & Rosé @ Champêtre.

2011-10-11T08:35:00.008+08:00

Around 5-½ years ago, while researching on how to pair wines for Moroccan cuisine, I learned from a friend, Rod Schiffman (who spent a bit of time there), that rosé is typically consumed with the couscous. Being partial to regional/traditional pairings, I tried it out and have stuck to the same ever since.

Marc Aubry used to make Algerian couscous for my friends and I at Je Suis Gourmand. One had to order the dish a few days in advance since the dish wasn't on his regular menu at the time. These days, in Marc's Champêtre (same location as the old Je Suis Gourmand), Algerian couscous is now on the regular menu (each order good for 2 persons). On the 3rd September 2011, during a Saturday dinner with Catha and our children, we had it again.

As it was in Je Suis Gourmand, no meal in Champêtre is complete
without Marc's Terrine of Foie Gras.

We also had the night's special of French Chanterelles w/ Foie Gras...

...and Marc's signature Escargots à la Bourguignonne too, of course.

Our seafood course was a couple of orders of
Moules de Bouchot & Frites, the moules flown in live from Brittany.

The Algerian Couscous comes in 2 servings,
one of the couscous itself topped with lamb chops & merguez...

...and a rich, spicy broth with bits of
chicken, lamb, chick peas, some vegetables, little tomato, etc. Delicious...

...especially when paired with the 2009 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé. I drink this so often and have written about this (and a couple of previous vintages thereof) so many times that some friends joke that I am a stockholder of the producer. Suffice it to state that, to my personal tastes, Tempier produces the best rosé in the world. The Stockbroker held a side-by-side blind tasting of Tempier's and Domaine Ott 2007 rosés back in late August 2009, and the conclusion was that while both were excellent specimens of rosé, Tempier's was the more serious of the two.

The eldest's main course was the night's special
Lamb Loin w/ Risotto.

The second requested for Marc's Trio of Seafood Pasta (Chilean Sea Bass, Scallops & Prawns) which used to be on Je Suis Gourmand's regular menu but is not on Champêtre's. Marc kindly accommodated the special request though.

For everyone's information, Marc does entertain off-the-menu requests for so long as he has the ingredients available. It is always better, though, to give him a few days' advanced notice for special requests, just to make sure. For requests of dishes, the ingredients of which are not ordinarily/readily/locally available (e.g., wild pigeon, wild duck, venison, etc.), it's better to give him around around 3 weeks advanced notice.

For dessert, I had the Dark Chocolate Soufflé...

...while the second had the Lemon Soufflé (another special request). The youngest had a Butter-Dark Chocolate Mousse, but, unfortunately, my photo of it got ruined for some reason. Thanks, Marc, for yet another most excellent dinner.

Until the next!

Craft Beers @ Craft, The Fort.

2011-10-08T13:44:00.006+08:00

Beginning the 1st September 2011, my regular craft beer Thursdays have moved from The Tasting Room to The Tasting Corner @ Craft Pub & Grill at the Fort Strip, the Fort, Taguig. It's a much, much bigger venue with a full menu and 100 kinds of the American craft beers that Jimmyton imports and distributes through his Global Beer Exchange are readily available.

Aside from having around 100 different styles of craft beers to choose from - from lighter lagers, pilsners, weißbiers, pale ales, amber ales, India Pale Ales, porters, and an array of different stouts, etc. - one can pretty much order anything there to enjoy with one's choice brews.

Having arrived past 6pm and starting off with a couple of lighter ales with Jim and Jun Villanueva, we moved to a bigger table and I ordered some of Craft's more popular bar chow choices of Buffalo Chicken Wings, "The Works" Pizza and their Rib-Eye Steak; while Jim ordered the specialty Craft Burger. We shared all these at the table with Jim's triathlete friends including Francis Panuncialman, Tricia Chiongbian-Concepcion and her hubby Guy Concepcion. Jun and I were outnumbered, so we talked about food, wine and travel, leaving the jock-speak to the others.

Hitachino Nest Pale Ale - A lighter style of pale ale with dominant citrus and white grapefruit flavors touched with some yeastiness and a whispered suggestion of sake. Very mild hoppiness and some fleeting sweet maltiness. Nice, light refreshing character. Had there been any sushi available, I would've gotten some for this. The next day or two, Jim told me I could have ordered some from KATSU, the sister restaurant next door. I'll definitely do that next I'm there.

Hitachino Nest Extra High (XH) - A manly brown ale with base flavors of dried fruits, citrus, bit of yeastiness, moderately roasted malt, with mild hops and underlying rice liqueur. This was pretty macho. I liked it alone and it actually wasn't bad at all with the rib-eye steak.

I also had a bottle of the Hitachino Nest Sweet Stout, but I forgot to take a photo of it. I don't recall much of it, but I do remember thinking that it didn't seem to have enough body to support its sweetness (kind of like an overly sweet porter if that makes any sense). I like the sweeter stouts to be fuller in body.

Anderson Valley Imperial IPA - back to more familiar territory here. I have just written about this beer: "Orange peel, slight pine and mild citrus lace this ale's smooth hoppiness and underlying maltiness. Fresh and dangerously drinkable, this went down all too easily". I've said it before; I'll say it again: "I always enjoy this beer". My recommendation? Just go for it.

Longtime friends Tonji & Sylvia Ramos & Yuan "Paella Boy" Ongpin
had joined by then.

As always, I had to have some of my favored Rogue Juniper Pale Ale. I've written about this so many times, there is no need to repeat myself. It went great with the spicy Buffalo Chicken Wings and with the chunk of Jim's Craft Burger that he shared. I also really enjoy having this particular ale with the burgers at Elbert's Steak Room. Tonji, Sylvia, Yuan and I lingered past midnight. Another fun and rainy night! Until the next!

Miguel's Birthday Lunch 2011 @ Elbert's Steak Room.

2011-10-08T08:48:00.010+08:00

As usual, Miguel had a virtually week-long celebration for his birthday. For us this year, on the 30th August 2011, he hosted a lunch at Elbert's Steak Room. We were 5 in all: the Stockbroker, Rene, Aaron, Miguel, of course, and I. We started off with a bit of...

Anderson Valley Imperial India Pale Ale - Orange peel, slight pine and mild citrus lace this ale's smooth hoppiness and underlying maltiness. Fresh and dangerously drinkable, this went down all too easily. I always enjoy this IPA, and it went really well with the...

...Culatello di Zibello that Miguel brought back from Italy.
Next came the Salmon Tartare...

...with which we had a bottle of...

2009 Hubert Lamy St-Aubin 1er Cru en Remilly - The Stockbroker's bottle. Baked apple and pear, some citrus emerges past mid-mouth, mild minerality and a touch of honeysuckle. Clean, good balancing acidity and notable definition. Quite nice on the whole. I don't know how much this costs, but, depending on its price, this could very easily be something to watch out for. That said, if QPR is not an object, I'd say go for it.

A plate of very fresh, guilt-suppressing salad...

...for the shared 2 platters of Elbert's Cheese Steak Sandwiches for the middle...

...and the Elbert's Chef Burgers that Miguel pre-ordered a couple of days before. These special burgers are made up of US prime grade steak cuttings and whatever inspiration its Chef Adrian Cuenca at the time. I've had it several times before (mixed with marrow, foie gras, etc.), but this last one was, hands-down, the juciest, most decadent one so far.

Miguel with Chef Adrian Cuenca.

With all this succulent beefy goodness, we had at least 5 reds. The 1990 Château Gruaud Larose I gave to Miguel as a birthday gift was not opened. I didn't even get to try all the reds; but those I did were:

1996 Domaine Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux - From the Stockbroker. Clos des Epeneaux is a premier cru monopole of Comte Armand, generally recognized as one of the very best producers of Pommard, if not the best. I first had this same wine from the Doc back on the 4th December 2007 at Tivoli. We were with the Stockbroker and Bernie Sim for a special all-game dégustation. My notes then were as follows:

From the Doc. I personally have a soft spot for these earthy, masculine reds from the Cote de Beaune (though I was somewhat disappointed with the vintage 2000 version of this wine). Quite lively yet 11 years from vintage - livelier/more youthful than I expected it to be (or could it be that my judgment was clouded by unavoidable contrast to the 2 previous wines?) - a muscular red Burg with an intriguing vague hint of iron to its hallmark earthiness. This one was comparatively much easier to analyze: a smooth compote of red fruit, red cherry and discreet ripe dark raspberry over red beet undertones - more satin than silk on the palate. Good, sturdy, solid Pommard bones and structure.

Very nice and I believe this will continue to age gracefully for another, perhaps, 5 years. Admirable ageworthiness.

Almost 4 years later, it is now more of good Thai silk than satin and I could already get the sous bois. Its bullish musculature has now smoothed out, its focus sharper, its structure still firm. Its fruit is notably softer, deeper, well-defined, spice-flecked and generally more serious and refined. More violets too. Very nice and it made me think. Good show. This bottle considered, at 15 years from vintage, I'd drink up now and in the next 4-5 years.

1995 Château Grand Puy-Lacoste - From Rene. Already quite enjoyable but still has many years left in its tank, this is one of the more open, readily expressive bottles of classed '95 left banks I've had the past couple of years. Properly Pauillac, this smoothly muscled light-heavyweight displays crème de cassis, pencil lead shavings, warm asphalt, violets, cedar and touches of vanilla and licorice. Good backbone. Good acidic balance. More complexity and depth in the years to come I'd wager.

Miguel and Rene said it was quite tannic when they first opened it so they decanted it for aeration in hopes that it would "calm down" somehow. I arrived late for the lunch so didn't get to try it out when they opened it. As above written, it seemed fine to me when I got to it around 1-½ to 2 hours later.

As regards pairing with the Chef's Burger, I vividly recall thinking that Miguel's bottle of 2001 Artadi Grandes Añadas (also decanted for about 2 hours before service) was the best match but it was difficult to drink alone. Unfortunately, I just remember that impression, the details of the wine are now forgotten, and I wasn't able to get to Aaron's bottle of 2005 Clos Mogador Manyetes Priorat.

Some of the assorted desserts.

Mig got his own little birthday cake.

Segura Viudas "Aria" Brut Nature Cava - Aaron's bottle surely as this winery forms part of the gigantic Freixenet group which his company represents. This, as I understand, is a reserva cava composed of a blend of 3 of Macabeo, 3 of Parellada and 1 of Xarel-lo. Fresh, very slighty yeasty, mildly herbaceous scents and flavors of green apple, discreet lime and vague undertones of choux pastry. Pretty frothy mouthfeel. Its clean freshness and verve made it an excellent way to clean and revive the palate after so much food and wine.

Another bottle that was saved for another occasion was Aaron's legendary tinto Riojano, no less than the 1964 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva. Even the Stockbroker told him "I'd better be around when you open that bottle!"

Final glasses & espressos at Elbert's smoking lounge.
Happy birthday again, Mig!!!

Commemorative Lunch @ Mamou.

2011-10-07T19:40:00.010+08:00

Lunch today, 7 October 2011, was at Mamou in Serendra - a lunch I hosted in commemoration of my 1st year of legal consultancy for LBC Express, Inc. We were only six in all (Santi, Enki, Ramon, Jeff, Chris and myself) as Miguel just arrived from Europe and Rene's schedule was just too full. As usual, lunch started out with a bit of bubbly:

Champagne Michel Arnould Carte d'Or Millésime 2005 - A vintage champagne from a family owned and run domaine with its own grand cru vineyards in Verzenay (pinot noir 50%) and the Côte des Grands Blancs (50% chardonnay). Their Carte d'Or bottling is produced only in exceptional vintages and released with a minimum of 3 years maturation.

Expressive, vaguely floral nose. Fine, persistent mousse. Minimal yeastiness. Fruit is round and creamy with a nice heftiness and depth - baked pear, apple compote, membrillo. Youngish, but its complexity is already perceptible. I didn't detect the back-end citrus notes as I consistently have in the La Grande Cuvée de Michel Arnould. Though it is slightly fat, it is very nice.

We had this bottle with appetizers of Fuet & Grana Padano w/ Honey and Mamou's Bacon. For the 4 Double-Size US Prime Grade Angus Rib-Eyes...

...with sides of red and white Steak Rice and a bit of Creamed Corn as well, we had...

1985 Château Gruaud Larose - the third bottle of this I've opened since the first week of July 2011. I over decanted the first bottle at home and wasn't able to have any breathing for the second bottle at Va Bene.

This third one I slow-oxed for about 3 hours before service with great results. Cedary, ceps, cassis, discreet underlying cherry & raspberry, warm gravel & asphalt, violets and fleeting sanguine touches. Medium-bodied, self-possessed with a proper, quietly confident crescendo and medium-long finish. Though not heavily boned, it did very well with the steaks.

Chris and Ramon had a few bottles of Highway 78 Scotch Ale and a bomber each of the Ballast Point "Sea Monster" Imperial Stout and Stone Imperial Russian Stout (all ales I sourced from Jimmyton's Global Beer Exchange). Enki had a bit of stout as well.

Only 3 of us had dessert (Dark Chocolate Ice Cream for me, Key Lime Pie w/ Schlag for Enki, and Pecan Pie w/ Schlag for Jeff). Coffees and a double espresso for me ended a fine lunch.

(L-R: Chris Hagedorn, Ramon Araneta, Santi Araneta, Enki Rey and Jeff Rodriguez)

Until the next!

Cutting-Edge Cuisine & a Birthyear Bordeaux at The Goose Station.

2011-09-19T17:06:00.008+08:00

This past Friday, the 16th September 2011 was dinner with Catha and the kids at Rob & Sunshine Pengson's The Goose Station.

The youngest at the restaurant's entrance.

It was the second's birthday earlier in the week, but, it being a schoolday, he chose said restaurant for his weekend birthday celebration. Rob was solely at the helm that night as Sunshine was home tending to their little one.

Rob & team.

Catha, the teenagers and I went for their Seasonal and Signature menus, while the youngest ordered à la carte. Their dégustation menus typically start off with a number of whimsical “snacks” that set the playful tone of their cuisine. That night, the snacks were composed of lightly indulgent Foie Gras Cones...

...and a trio of bite-sized delights:

L-R: Mais con Yelo, Jamón Croqueta & The Chip.

For the above and some succeeding dishes, I popped open a bottle of Champagne Grande Cuvée de Michel Arnould, a predominantly pinot noir based (70%) bubbly with 30% chardonnay, all the fruit of which came from this family-owned and run grower-producer’s grand cru Verzenay vineyards. Though not labeled as vintage champagne, this blend is, in fact, all from vintage 2000.

The lively, creamy-fruited, hazelnut-nuanced champagne went very well with the foregoing snacks, and paired naturally with the following courses of...

Oysters & Avruga...

and Caviar Surprise...

...while its rounded chardonnay, apple and bright citrus notes complemented Rob’s interpretations of:

Steak Tartare and...

...Eggs Benedict...

...which everyone, especially the youngest, loved.

It also did nicely with the chorizo-touched Seared Scallops & Fiduea Negra...

...and the youngest's Foie Gras w/ Caramelized Adobo.

The salad course (below), which we had sans wine, was an entertaining montage of shapes, colors, textures and flavors, each component either running or contrasting with the others.

Carrot & Beet Salad

The evening's red wine was a quietly complex, cedar, violets, warm asphalt and dark mineral nuanced 1994 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande from second’s birthyear.

To my mind, vintage 1994 is an under-appreciated year for Bordeaux, unfairly and pre-maturely judged by many. Many bottles I’ve had over the past 3-4 years have shown that there are, indeed, gems from this misunderstood year, the subject wine and those of Châteaux Haut Brion, Angelus, Vieux Château Certan and Léoville Barton, to name a few, included.

The wine’s notable depth and velvety dark fruit married well with our respective main courses of French Pigeon (above) and 24-Hour Steak (below), buttressed by the former’s firm structure and fine, age-resolved tannins. Its balancing acidity and clean lines gave good cut to the rich dishes; its cedar-violet finish gracefully lingering nostalgic.

The desserts of Rhubarb Parfait...

...and the striking Chocolate Surprise were simply beyond reproach.

Though I’ve enjoyed many dinners by these young chefs, this last one showed more creativity, studied technique and precise, polished execution than ever before. The children very much look forward to their next meal here, as do Catha & I.

Until the next!

Catha's Birthday Dinner by Cyrille Soenen @ Impressions.

2011-08-29T10:53:00.005+08:00

Around a week before Catha's birthday, I asked her where she wanted to hold her birthday dinner, to which she replied that she wanted to have dinner by Cyrille Soenen. As luck would have it, Cyrille is currently heading Impressions (3rd Floor, Maxim's Tower, Resort World, Pasay) while working on opening his new restaurant in Greenhills.

Through a brief exchange of SMS messages and e-mails with Cyrille, the dinner was quickly set and we were at Impressions for dinner on Saturday, the 27th August 2011 - Catha, the children and I.

To start, I brought a bottle of Champagne La Grande Cuvée de Michel Arnould. Domaine Michel Arnould is a family-owned-and-run firm which produces a line of bubblies from fruit from its own grand cru vineyards located in Verzenay in the Champagne region. This particular cuvée is mainly pinot noir (70%) from selected plots in the Moulin de Verzenay , with the remaining 30% of chardonnay from the Côtes des Grands Blancs. This blend is, as I understand, from vintage 2000 but, for some reason, was not branded/labelled as a vintage champagne.

This is a floral, heftily rounded, creamy-fruited champagne that shows a nice, plumpish middle with an underlying theme of white chocolate, brioche and hints of nougat in its dominant fresh apple, pear and very minor citrus. Very approachable, definitely a crowd-pleaser of a champagne. Catha asked me to immediately get more bottles. This is not locally available, so I'll have to order more from abroad. No problem.

Catha & the youngest.

The two teenagers.

We were immediately offered an assortment of breads. I've really missed Cyrille's Mini Baguettes which he always served fresh at his old Restaurant Ciçou at the Hotel Céleste, so I immediately went for this in the basket. Served with a heavenly Isigny-Ste-Mère butter, I tried my best to refrain from eating too much of it as I had ordered a full course meal, but I still wound up having 3 baguettes and 1½ containers of the butter. Love it.

We were served some Chapati...

...and platters of Prosciutto and Pancetta as well.

We also had two platters of Fresh Oysters...

...to go with the champagne. Fantastic.

Amuse Bouche

Catha's first course was a dish not on the regular menu: Crispy Prawn Wrapped in Fresh Herbs, Rougail Salad and Citrus Dressing. She really liked this. I wonder if it will be put on the regular menu sometime. Cyrille joined Impressions only early this month, so he is likely still in the process of establishing a regular menu (as well as continuously conjuring specials).

For a first course, Renzo and I each had the
Soft Boiled Farm Egg w/ Sea Urchin, Green Pea Broth & Mashed Broccoli.

For their soup course, the eldest and youngest chose the
Cream of Spinach Soup w/ Goat Cheese & Salmon Ravioli...

...while the second and I enjoyed bowls of the delicious
Delicate Cream Soup of Mussels w/ Ravioli of Mashed Watercress & Oyster.

For our main course, I brought a bottle of 1996 Château Rauzan-Ségla.

Our main course was ordered a few days ahead of time: 24-Hour Sous-Vide Veal Shank w/ a side of pasta, Fresh French Chanterelles, Lardons, Baby Carrots, Small Potatoes, Shallots and Cherry Tomatoes. The sauce was a rich glaze from the veal's own juices. This was absolutely wonderful - the veal was melt-in-your-mouth tender and moist, the veal's flavors clean and focused, the sauce perfection. Together with the sides, it was a textbook of completeness and harmony.

Cyrille carves.

Off the bone it goes cleanly.

Voilà.

Wonderful in itself...

...and an excellent pairing for the 1996 Château Rauzan Ségla. I've had this wine a few times in the past, the last bottle I opened being in mid-December 2007 with Catha, Rocky & Apple Villadolid over dinner at Elbert's Steak Room. My notes then were as follows:

1996 Rauzan Ségla - Mid-December 2007, at Elbert's Steak House for dinner with my wife and the Villadolids from San Francisco. What struck me most about this fine Margaux was its mouthfeel: so smooth, seamless, flexible and vibrant mid-palate, I kept holding it there much longer than politely possible, enjoying the layers of well-extracted (yet not over-the-top), well-rounded, sweetish, small red berry/ripe cherry over cassis, dark plum and cedar undertones. I kept thinking of dark violet flowers at its finish. Exceptional balance and harmony, with good depth. A fine wine indeed, one I will definitely buy more of.

Extremely better than when I tested it out it last in mid-to-late 2000, when it was hard, angular and wholly unenjoyable. A little over 7 more years 0f bottle-age did it wonders.

Now, almost 4 years later and almost 15 years from harvest, the wine has evidently and considerably fleshed out and put on weight, showing more warm openness and a pronounced middle (nb: I double decanted this, letting it air in a decanter in my cav for about 1-½ hours before returning it to the bottle for transport to the restaurant). Harmonious, properly ripe blackcurrants, dark raspberry, bit of dark cherry over dark plum and calm warm asphalt, with violets, cedar and slight anise seamlessly intertwined in a body just a notch or two under full. Notable focus and definition. Everything was properly balanced and neatly presented. Discreet and smoldering power without being at all ponderous. Lovely wine. I am guessing this has many years ahead of it, but only time will tell if it will age as beautifully as their vintage 1955.

¡Salud!

For dessert, there were Macarons...

...and a Chocolate Mousse Birthday Cake, plus a special surprise dessert from Cyrille (no photo) which Catha, the kids and I all love. I cannot mention what it was, but, worry not, as it will surely be available at Cyrille's new restaurant in Greenhills which, hopefully, will open by late October.

It was an excellent meal, a great choice for a birthday dinner.
Thanks, Cyrille, and, again, happy birthday Catha!

Wines & Spirits Club Philippines BYOB Wine & Pizza Dinner II.

2011-08-29T09:29:00.004+08:00

The Friday before last, 19th August 2011, was another BYOB (bring-your-own-bottles) Wine & Pizza Dinner of the Wines & Spirits Club Philippines (WSCP) at Gene Gonzalez's Café Ysabel. This was the second time such an event was held, the first one almost 2 years ago having been very well-attended (Gene's wood-burning brick oven was new then).

The Menu

Chef Patron Gene Gonzalez w/ Future Trade's Eric Kahn &
visiting representatives of Viñas Santa Rita (Chile)

Goat Cheese Pizza w/ Red Wine Simmered Onions topped w/ Arugula

Turkish Pride of Lamb Sausage, Chives, Parsley, Olives, Feta & Mozzarella.
This was my favorite. There also were some Pepperoni Pizzas (no photo).

Among others, I brought along a bottle each of 2009 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis & 2009 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé. I've written about these wines so many times before, there is no need to repeat myself anew. Suffice it to state that both wines went well with the courses all the way before the meat course - the Roero arneis pairing especially well with the lamb & feta pizza.

I also brought along some craft beers that I bought from Jimmyton's Global Beer Exchange. Pizza and beer? It was a no-brainer. The Ballast Point "Sea Monster" Imperial Stout was to be consumed with the cheese course or after dessert; while the Ballast Point "Calico" Amber Ale I had with the pizzas.

Johnny Revilla, Arnie del Rosario, Sanju & Vimla Gopaldas.

Jimmyton Araneta and family joined Ron & Mich, Mauro, Catha & I.

J-Lab with Marly & Pet

Minestrone of Charred Vegetables

Mauro & Catha

Fire-Baked Beef Short Ribs, Spicy Bourbon Glaze, Baked Corn, Napa Style Cauliflower

2004 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (100% cab sauv) - My bottle. Very young; it is an atypical Montelena in that, among others, it is only the 2nd vintage in the winery's history to hit 14% abv, very fruit-driven and a bit low on acid. I brought it precisely for the Fire-Baked Ribs. I had Arnie taste it blind, and, though he immediately identified it as a Napa wine, he couldn't get it as a cabernet sauvignon (whereas he is normally pretty good at identifying the dominant grape). A strange Montelena indeed, but, still, a nice enough and typical Napa cab that went well with the main course.

Ron & Michelle Rapanot

Bodjie Tobillo & Wil Lee

Jin, Bodjie & Eric

Gene Gonzalez working on dessert...

...explaining the details to his sous chef.

Burned Butter Ice Cream w/ Roasted Pineapple topped with Vanilla Salt.
Mauro had a second helping of this.

A round of applause.

Until the next!

Saturday Family Dinner @ Tung Lo Wan (San Juan).

2011-08-28T20:24:00.008+08:00

Last Saturday, the 20th August 2011, was at Tung Lo Wan, a recently opened (i.e., July 2011) Chinese restaurant located on the corner of Wilson & P. Guevarra Streets, San Juan (coming from Ortigas onto Wilson, it will be on your right side). My dad had read about this restaurant in the Inquirer and wanted to check it out. Thus, that night, we were 8 in all: Dad, Tad & Chako, Reena, Catha, our bookend boys (the 2nd was at the beach) and I. We arrived first, and, famished after a day of golf, I immediately started ordering.

Steamed Live Suaje (500 grams). I always order this at Chinese restaurants whenever available. The ones at Tung Lo Wan are larger than normal, but nonetheless wonderful - bursting with fat at the head and sweetly fresh. Delicious. I'm so glad my boys have long been big enough to peel their own shrimps. Time was I had to do all the peeling for them as Catha's nails wouldn't allow her to do the same.

White Chicken (½ chicken), recommended by our waiter as one of their better-selling appetizers. Generally, I don't eat chicken, but I do like the Cantonese white chicken. This one was soft, juicy and nicely flavored, albeit a bit ham-handedly so. This dictated the style of cuisine - there is no refinement or subtlety of fine Chinese cuisine here; rather, it is a knock-down/drag-out style for joyful over-indulging (like our meals at Under the Bridge Spicy Crab in Wan Chai). We were up to the task.

Roast Pork, a.k.a., Lechon Macau (2 orders). None of us are averse to eating a decent amount of fat, but one of the orders was evidently a little over-the-top with it. That said, we finished off both. This dish, in HK, is usually served with mustard, and, in Victoria City Seafood Restaurant, with a bit of sugar as well. It sounds a bit strange, but it is a delicious dipping combination. Tung Lo Wan gives the table a plastic bottle of mustard and no sugar (though I'm sure they would if asked). The mustard they give is the ubiquitous, rather abrasive yellow commercial stuff sold in groceries - not at all the best, but it will do in a pinch.

The Oyster Cake was passable, but utterly forgettable.

Fried Salt & Pepper Crab, the large, live victim presented for approval before its sentence is carried out in the kitchen. This was very competently cooked, seasoned well, the spiciness mild, precisely cooked and not overly oily. Good stuff.

I've mentioned before that Sweet & Sour Pork is a favorite dish of Catha's side of the family - and my youngest apparently inherited such fondness. He asked to have some, and I, naturally, relented. He said the flavor was ok, but that the pork could have been made even just a little bit crispy.

Roast Pigeon (3 pieces, each pigeon quartered) served with toasted salt. Those averse to greasy food and/or gamey fowl had best avoid this dish altogether, wherever served. Me, I love it, and so does my family. This was wiped out. Not as good as the imported pigeons served at Choi Garden, but this is cheaper and plenty good enough for me and mine. Of course, we had some healthier fare as well:

Szechuan Eggplant w/ Minced Pork & Salted Fish; very nice. Eggplant is one of the vegetables my kids, in varying degrees, actually like. My eldest really dug into this; so much so that I barely got a decent serving.

Szechuan Stir Fried String Beans w/ Minced Pork & Pickled Olives. Chako had this before when she and Tad scouted out this place for dad before he decided to take us, and particularly liked it so we got an order. It was only then that I realized how similar this restaurant's dishes were to those of Master Wong's above-mentioned Under the Bridge Spicy Crab. This was nice, but the olives' flavors are comparatively mute. Actually, had I not read the menu later on, I wouldn't have known there were any pickled olives in there. Still, this is a good dish on its own merit.

Polonchay w/ Red Egg & Century Egg. I'm a sucker for pretty much anything that has century eggs in it, and, wanted more vegetables to ease the guilt of over-indulging in the fried dishes. Even though, this is a vegetable dish worth ordering even without its guilt-suppressing plus; that is, if one likes century eggs.

The Yang Chow Fried Rice was competent; nothing special here.

With regard to prices, it is quite inexpensive: the whole meal plus drinks (a few San Mig Pale Pilsens and cokes) excluding tip came out to under P6000 for 8 of us stuffed to the gills - roughly P750/person. Not bad at all. As earlier stated, this is not the place to look for genteel surroundings, refined atmosphere or subtle cuisine - Ambiance? This is Tung Lo Wan!

~ oOo ~

Wanting some coffee, we made for nearby Café Ysabel, an old reliable we all would frequent when we still lived in Greenhills with Dad. Back then, it was still on Wilson Street; now, along P. Guevarra. Call me a nostalgic old fogey or a fuddy-duddy, but everyone else can keep their Starbucks and what-have-you. I prefer the coffee at Café Ysabel. Of course, with the coffee, we had a couple of desserts:

Chocolate Lava Cake...

...and the Strawberry Shortcake which we all found very nice and moist.

We all had the Irish Coffee...

...except the youngest who had a cup of Hot Chocolate Marshmallow.

Until the next!

Lamb Chops & Barolo Lunch @ Champêtre.

2011-08-27T16:11:00.003+08:00

Lunch of the 23rd August 2011 was at Champêtre with the Vigneron who I have not seen in quite a while. Having been over-indulging the past week, I skipped having any appetizer and went straight to my main course of...

...Grilled Lamb Chops and Potatoes Dauphinoise, which I enjoyed with...

...the Vigneron's bottle of 2001 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cannubi - of all the years I've known the Vigneron, this is probably only the 5th or 6th bottle of non-Bordeaux red I've seen him open. Svelte, medium-bodied, proper acidity, somewhat straightforward with typical hints of violets and "tar" in its notably focused, slightly spicy red berries. Tannins are fine, but you do notice them in the finish, giving a slightly rustic air to the wine in general. This, I mentally noted, was a lot less oaky than the 2001 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti Nizza La Court. Very decent Barolo and a good eating wine for the lamb (my type, anyway).

I know Bacchus Int'l. distributes Chiarlo's wines in Manila, but I am not sure if this particular vintage is still in stock. If it is, I'm getting some. We both skipped dessert and had double espressos.

Merci pour le repas, mon ami.

GBeX Tasting Room Moves to Craft @ The Fort Strip.

2011-08-18T19:49:00.008+08:00

Regular readers know that, for the past several months, I'd been spending every available Thursday evening enjoying US/Japanese Craft Beer sessions at Global Beer Exchange's (GBeX) Tasting Room. Well, for reasons of a new landlord, among others, our regular craft sessions (during which one hangs around with old friends and makes many new ones, all while enjoying and learning about hitherto unknown ales) have transferred to GBeX's Tasting Corner @ Craft Pub & Grill (at the Fort Strip, The Fort, Taguig).

We simply couldn't, however, allow the move to take place without a proper send-off. Thus, this past Monday, the 15th August 2011, a whole bunch of regulars and other beer lovers had a final blast with GBeX's Jim Araneta. Aside from our regular pica-picas of jamón serrano and chorizo, we had tons of tempura courtesy of Thea and several pizzas as well.

It began at dusk with Paolo Misa, Thea Ancheta, Jim Araneta, Alex Tiu,
Ramon Araneta, Miguel Vecin & myself.

By around 6:30, things started heating up
with Usual Suspect J-Lab and several friends from LBC Express.

Seated: J-Lab, Chris & Stephanie Hagedorn, Santi Araneta;
Standing: Ramon Araneta, Paolo Misa

The Tasting Room's younger set of regulars, including wine & beer distributor
Mags Villafuerte, were there in force as well.

The Young Once w/ The Young Ones:
Thea Ancheta, Alex Tiu, Jim Araneta & Nicole del Rosario.

Later on, Jim, at cousin Santi's special request,
officially declared the night closed for a private party.

Craft Beers for everyone, baby!

It was a hell of a send-off to a favorite venue. No notes this time - impossible, I drank way too much. Besides, the night wasn't about studious taste analysis, but of sheer enjoyment of the ales, with the food, in the company of friends...and why the hell not?

Until the next Thursday session @ Craft!

Saturday Family Dinner @ Caffé Caruso.

2011-08-14T12:35:00.005+08:00

Last Thursday afternoon, Chinkee texted inviting to dinner at Caffé Caruso with the Gopaldases, but I couldn't make it since I was already booked to attend the 2nd Hitachino Nest Ale session at The Tasting Room. It just so happened, then, that the next day, the youngest asked to have dinner at Caruso on Saturday. I, of course, agreed and, not having seen my brother and sis-in-law in over a month, invited them to join us. The two teenagers weren't there as they were at their respective parties.

Caffé Caruso has been a family favorite for many years and we almost always wind up ordering the same dishes when there:

Antipasti Misti of Spinach, Eggplant Lasagna, Arancini & Mushrooms.

Pizza Napoletana, my favorite.

Arugula Salad (para healthy).

Tad & Chako arrived earlier and had some prosecco. The white for the evening was a bottle of 2009 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis (of course); the red a 1997 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904.

The youngest had a bit of the 2009 Giacosa Roero Arneis with the starters and, out of the blue, opined that the wine went well with the arugula salad. He was right as the wine's distinctive slight almond bitterness to its over-all dry character, moderate, rounded fruitiness and precise acid balance both ran with and gave lift to the dish. I felt more than a little proud he could notice that. The waitress who always attends to us said: "Siyempre, parang si papa niya" (Of course, like his father). Love it.

The youngest never seems to tire of Veal Milanese & Saffron Risotto...

...and neither does Catha.

Tad & Chako both had Grilled Lamb Chops & Risotto.

I had my usual Spaghetti allo Scoglio. It's been off the menu for quite a while, but they are always happy to make it for me.

We lingered until almost 11pm over some shared Panna Cotta, a cup each of double espresso and lots of stories, skipping the offered grappa on the house as Tad & I had to drive. Lovely night of good food & wines with family. Can't really ask for more.

Hitachino Nest Night @ The Tasting Room: Part II.

2011-08-13T13:43:00.006+08:00

11th August 2011, Global Beer Exchange's Tasting Room

At 5:30pm, Enki and I were the first to arrive for the second of, now, a series of three separate Thursday launchings of the different lines of Hitachino Nest ales. Thirsty and hungry, Jim just 5 minutes away, we ordered some food and started on the lighter of the session's featured ales.

Hitachino Nest Weizen - Yeasty banana, moderate orange juice, underlying wheat and slight clove. Hoppiness comes in more towards the back and in the finish. I honestly found the yeastiness a bit obtrusive for my taste, but it's ok as a whole - makes me think of a kind of lighter, fruitier Belgian ale. As we were halfway through our first bottles, Jim and Alex had arrived...

...as had our pica-picas/mezze.

Moutabal & Hummus w/ Pita

Tzatziki

I forget the name of this.

I always have to have some of the jamón serrano here...

...as well as the chorizo.

Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale - This was my favorite of the session (and I believe Jim's too). What struck me most was the backbone/structure of this ale - the flavors seemed to be more balanced/organized, propped up and revolving around a firm, definitive central core (if that makes any sense). Very distinctive in its intriguing red-berried, sake-like flavor with precise malt and hoppiness. Its reddish-copper color is quite eye-catching as well. Very nice indeed.

The Hitachino Nest Commemorative Ale is, as explained by mother-and-daughter team Masako-san & Kana-san, a seasonal release ale for celebrating New Year in Japan. Moderately hefty and complexly layered with notes caramel, chocolate and baking spices in mellow dried fruitiness and subtle roasted maltiness. Could be a bit fresher , but, over-all, I'd not refuse a bottle or three of this.

Later on, Jim started pouring a sake, if I recall properly, produced by the Kiuichi brewery, for Masako-san, Kana-san and the rest of us. Slight and very subtle carob and just a whisper of sweetness to its mellow rice flavor. Would this be a daiginjo I wonder? I wasn't able to take a photo of this and do not remember its name (well, if I recall correctly, the label was in Japanese anyway). Good stuff, I hope he starts bringing it in to Manila and gets it into Japanese restaurants at a moderate price as it is certainly way better than the (usually boxed) regular house sakes in Manila.

Jim and I closed down the place by around 10pm or so. As I may have mentioned before, we'll be, henceforth, moving our regular Thursday evening sessions to Craft in the Fort; but, before then, one last blast at The Tasting Room this coming Monday. I'll miss this place, but, the craft will surely go on.

Dinner & Wines @ LL's.

2011-08-12T22:02:00.005+08:00

Later that evening of the 4th August 2011, after the first Hitachino Nest launch night, I proceeded to LL's place for a dinner with him and his family - no occasion other than his wanting to open one of the bottles of fine, aged Burgundy from a batch we bought together around three or so years ago. LL collects a lot of stuff, premium Cuban puros and wine, among others. As I settled in, he started showing me some of his bottles, and, while doing so, one of the magnums slipped and, well...

...these things happen.

Earlier that day, LL and I agreed to a simple dinner of roast rack of lamb, sans appetizers or lead-up courses so we could concentrate on the Burg. I should have known better than to expect a simple meal at his place.

This first course was Foie Gras 2-Ways: Terrine & Seared in a Caramelized Red Wine Poached Pear. Prepared at home by his better half, ML, would you believe? Pretty impressive. I've had seared foie and pear dishes in some local restaurants that were not as good as this.

Unperturbed by the magnum's sudden demise, LL proceeded
to open the bottle to pair with the double foie gras course.

This deserves a second shot.

2005 Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese #5 - So complex it is a bit difficult to describe. Best I can say offhand is that it is similar to a Barsac (a young Doisy Daëne like the 2004 comes to mind), but evidently lighter in body and on its feet. With lower alcohol and brighter acidity, it dances and glides on the palate. Absolutely no cloying in this, though it is persistent in its honeyed flavors. Excellent match for the foie, without at all tiring the palate for the next course and its accompanying red.

Jiàn kāng!

With a professionally plated looking main course of excellent Roast Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Risotto & Asparagus, LL had opened a bottle of 1990 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Premier Cru Champans - from the batch I had also bought my stock from. I drank all of my bottles already; this is the first of his he's opened. My last notes on this, as far as I can find anyway, are from a dinner with Doc and the wives at Sala on 1 July 2009 - just over 2 years ago - as follows:

1990 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans Premier Cru - My bottle, one I had been saving for the Doc to try since he wasn't able to join the Stockbroker and I when I opened one last May. My previous notes state:

"Volnay is a red wine producing village in the Côte de Beaune, beside Pommard, the former enjoying favor of Louis XI and le Roi Soleil, Louis XIV. Where Pommard is known to produce relatively hefty, masculine, somewhat rustic reds, Volnay is famous for producing generally refined and graceful reds - often spoken of as the counterpart of the Côte de Nuits' Chambolle-Musigny.

"D'Angerville was a pioneer in Volnay for many reasons (they were the first in the area to estate bottle their wines) and, then as now, regarded as one of very best producers of the area. Of the 11.19 hectare 1er cru climat Les Champans, d'Angerville owns 3.8 hectares. Champans wine are known to be comparatively (with regard to other 1er cru Volnay vineyards) richer, fuller, more structured and, in youth, more tannic...

"Its bouquet was deeply complex with mixed scents of damp earth, dark red meat, whispers of compost, ripe, dark red fruit, raisined cranberry, dried dates, old/pressed violets and undertones of vanilla cream. On the palate, it was slightly over medium-bodied, discreetly hefty mid-mouth, suavely rounded, lushly fruited, with soft, velvet tannins. Well structured yet, but warmly mellowed with age.

"All its flavors were finely laced with the oh-so-difficult to describe meaty/compost-touched Burgundy decay. Exquisitely and seamlessly layered; its depth and complexity lending it a contemplative character. I haven't been this captivated by a wine in a long time...."

This particular bottle was consistent, with the foregoing notes, save that the cranberry and cherry notes were more dominant and had a slightly sharper edge to them. Still, a very good Volnay for me.

LL's bottle on the subject night seemed less evolved than the above-described one I last opened: firmer, soft, but not as soft, with more fruit and less apparent Burgundy decay, but with a slightly sanguine and cep lilt to it. Lovely still, so complex yet sturdily earthy. Great to be able to revisit this wine now. What a nice treat.

In the meantime, like a sherbet course of sorts to clean the palate, ML encouraged me to try her Homemade Juice of 3 Fruits - I recall banana and whole lemon (peel and all, per ML), but the third one escapes me now. Wow, better than most of the sherbets served at more formal affairs - this gently cleanses and releases, leaving the palate freshened for the next course and pairing.

ML also made this whole baked fish in pastry. She told me what kind of fish it was, but I have forgotten. I do remember the presentation well, though, as it reminded me of the whole baked fish house specialty of Gaddi's.

ML unveils her work.

Voilà!

With some Saffron Couscous on the side, of course.

LL carved and served as he lectured me on the different
flavors and textures of the different parts of this fish.

With the fish, LL paired 2 of the famous baijiu (grain based wine-liqueur) of China.

Wuliangye and Kweichow Moutai

The Kweichow Moutai was served first - it is very difficult to explain baiju to someone who has never had Chinese grain liqueur. This was stronger than the second, both in aroma and flavor. It heats the throat with thatch-reminiscent potency all the way to the stomach, actually making me feel less full than I already was.

The Wuliangye was comparatively smoother and evidently more complex in all aspects. Its aroma reminded me of rainwater on an extra humid Manila day laced with hints of thatch, carob, dried corn kernels, rice, citrus. Very difficult to describe indeed.

The Wuliangye's lacquered case bears the 5 grains from which the liqueur
was made: broomcorn, rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn.

Dessert was ML's traditional Warm Soup of Eggwhite Custard.
So comforting and soothing for an overly full belly.

We then picked out some cigars from LL's stash.
I went for a Montecristo Selección Limitada 2001.

LL also gave me a couple of these Cohiba Behikes to bring home - I used to buy a lot of cigars under Boozze's tutelage, but this is a recent Cohiba line that I'd not tried before. It just so happened that, in my car, I had a box of H. Upmann No. 2s that Colin Mackay kindly picked up for me (straight from the factory) during his recent trip to Cuba, so I traded a couple with LL.

We spent until midnight with our cigars, chatting about life in general by the poolside - LL with his single malt, me with a couple more glasses of the aged Burgundy. Great night. 謝謝, LL!

Hitachino Nest Night @ The Tasting Room: Part I.

2011-08-12T20:27:00.006+08:00

4th August 2011, Global Beer Exchange's Tasting Room

This was the first of two separate Thursday tastings of different bottlings of Jim's new Japanese ale brand, Hitachino Nest (produced by the Kiuchi Brewery). On deck that day were the White Ale, Japanese Classic Ale, Nipponia Ancient Ale and Espresso Stout. It was a pretty packed night at the Tasting Room. I couldn't stay too long though as I had a dinner to attend. Thus, I had 2 hours to have all 4 brews. No problem.

Fellow regular Alex Tiu & Beermeister Jimmyton Araneta

The lightest of the bunch was the Hitachino Nest White Ale - Very fresh, eminently gulpable, mildly hoppy, citrus, orange peel noted ale with suggestions of sake. This goes down very easily...surely a crowd pleaser for those who will want to go on all night. It's dry brightness made me crave some sushi...

...but the spicy chorizo supplied by Tierra de España did very nicely anyway.

No. 38 Sports Lounge & Grill proprietress Chinkee Clemente-Koppe
w/ fellow lawyer Bodjie Tobillo & the boys.

Next up several notches in weight class that night was the Hitachino Nest Japanese Classic Ale - deeper and more complex with hoppier dried fruit flavors (if not as playful and easily gulpable as the previous ale), this is heftier (just about medium-bodied) and packs a more potent, though quiet, hoppy punch. This was a bit more my style, comparatively speaking, that is. Nice with the...

...silken fatted jamón serrano.

Jim, Jun Villanueva, his brother-in-law Marcel Crespo & Paolo Misa.

The Hitachino Nest Nipponia Ancient Ale (550ml) was my and Paolo's favorite of the night. Leaning a bit more to the Belgian style in its slightly honeyed dried fruit, citrus, pine needles, moderate maltiness, past mid-mouth hop bitterness - all on a smoothly textured medium body. Very nice.

Paolo Misa & Matt Koppe in beer-laced conversation.

My last bottle for that session was the Hitachino Nest Espresso Stout - Full-bodied, full-flavored, rich espresso and deep chocolate milk flavored stout with subtle, underlying roasted malt. Not as sweet as many I've tried - which, to me, is a good thing. Lovely. It goes down so easily but with a long-lasting finish. I downed my bottle more quickly than I expected and had plenty of time to spare to make my 8pm dinner after having a parting chat with my fellow Tasting Room "senior bad boys"...

Jim & (high school classmate) Dino Jalandoni.

New World Wines @ Malcolm's.

2011-08-12T15:36:00.005+08:00

Dinner Wednesday night, the 10th August 2011, was at the relatively new Malcolm's - the full service steakhouse at 138 H.V. Dela Costa St., Salcedo Village, Makati, not the small, more casual wagyu burger-centric place up the road. Nice, old-boys-club look and feel to this place. We wound up being 7 in all - 6 for dinner: the Stockbroker (who organized this dinner), Aaron, J-Lab, Arnie, Greg and myself, with Johnny coming by for some wine later in the evening.

Malcolm's manager Vicky Lauchengco & the Stockbroker.

Paella Boy was there manning the bar that night with the Mrs. and some friends.

A trio of light appetizers with some good bread.

Mixed Greens with Parmesan in a Light Lemon Balsamic Dressing para healthy.

"Tomahawk" Bone-In Wagyu Rib-Eye (rare for me), which came with...

Malcolm's version of Steak Rice

A couple of day before, during the organizational e-mailing stage, it evolved that, for a change, we would be having reds from the New World for the evening - whereas we have reds from the Old World 90+% of the time - particularly those from France, Spain and, occasionally, Italy.

In one of the e-mails, Aaron (a Bdx & Rioja-centric wino) threatened to bring wine in a can, and made good on his threat - but he brought some good Bordeaux (as did I) & Rioja as well. We didn't open those bottles though - only Greg opened a bottle of Bordeaux - we pretty much stuck to the (very rare) New World theme for the night.

To begin with, J-Lab blinded us with what, to me, was a very concentrated, densely ripe, sweet and alcoholic wine of virtually syrupy, candied/jammy red cherry and raspberry flavors with pronounced dark, medicinal minerality, herb notes and a good deal of oak. I guessed it to be hailing from the New World or from a particularly hot area of southern France. Some guessed it to be a Rhône. It turned out to be a southern Rhône - a 2004 Usseglio Châteauneuf du Pape (sorry, no photo of this).

2002 Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma Valley - J-Lab's bottle. Firm, comparatively better definition, structure and cleaner lines than the other reds that night. There is a rigid strength to its comparatively more self-possessed full body as well. Rustic, brambly black cherry, blackberry and a bit of dried plum with comparatively milder oak and oak-related spice. I'd not drink it alone, but it's rigid backbone, neat power and acidity made it my preferred pairing with my steak. I recalled that I visited this winery in early May 2001 and tasted many of their wines. Those certainly deserved their description of "skull-rattling".

Arnie & J-Lab

The 2006 Almaviva, a collaboration of Chile's Concha y Toro and Pauillac 1st growth Mouton Rothschild, was my bottle which I had decanted for around an hour or so before I got to it. Comparatively rounder and lusher in fruit than the previous wine, and fairly ripe. Fat crème de cassis, some underlying plum suggestions, baked fig and chocolate. Acidity was decent enough, but on the low side for me. Surely a wine designed for Parker. Not my type, but not bad with the steak - a running-with-the-ball pairing, barely any cut/contrast to speak of.

2003 Amon-Ra - From the Stockbroker. A Barossa Valley heavyweight shiraz. Big, rotund, juicy, concentrated, a bit smokey ripe dark raspberry, some dense blackberry with very mild black pepper and underlying sweet pipe tobacco notes. Had a polished general feel to it.

Paella Boy & the Stockbroker

There not being any cheese platter available, Vicky kindly sent us a platter of tender and moist Flank Steak with which to finish off our reds. Very nice of her. Thanks, Vicky.

The Stockbroker gave up a bonus bottle of 1993 Château Megyer Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos for our dessert. Quite dark in color for a barely 18 year old tokaji aszú, and whispered some oxidation as well. Still decent though.

For dessert, I had Chocolate Ice Cream (and felt like a kid eating it for some reason).

To brighten our palates after all the meat and heavy reds, a bubbly to finish...

2000 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Champagne Brut - Aaron's bottle. Enthusiastically bright, crisp and light-footed, it is still a bit tightly citrus-dominated at this point despite letting it sit in the glass a while. I'd keep these a while longer, or, perhaps let it aerate in a decanter and sit in a cooler next time to see how it develops. Still and all, it was a very pleasant way to refresh one's palate after all that meat and heavy, testosterone laden reds. J-Lab and I reminisced how we used to be able to buy the late '80s-'90 vintages of the Belle Epoque at around P670-P750/bottle back in the mid '90s. Those were the days. Thus ended the dinner.

I must note that they have good double espresso at Malcolm's.

Until the next!