The Usual Suspects' Dinner for Alino.

Last night, Tuesday the 13th January 2015, was at Sala Restaurant for a dinner J-Lab organised to welcome and bid bon voyage to London-based wino, Alino. We were 7 in all.

As always, some bubbly to start things off...

Champagne Jacques Selosse Initial Brut - Alex's bottle. Selosse is a small, very highly respected champagne grower-maker. I've enjoyed many bottles of this Initial line and their Version Originale as well - having been very impressed when first I had the former courtesy of Clem Nieto. My general impression of Selosse bubblies are they are distinctive for their remarkable purity, definition, focus and subtle complexity - and this bottle was no different.

As far as I know, Jojo is trying to distribute some of the Selosse line (through Premium Wine Exchange) in the Philippines. We all wish him the best of luck in that (no mean feat, as there is great demand for the small production, and the owner is very selective of whom he supplies). Until then, if ever, we make do sourcing them in HK or the US.

Current obsessions over premier small grower-maker champagne aside, more popular, well-made, big-production champagnes are always welcome - such as Champagne Krug Grande Cuvée Brut - Arnie's bottle. Typically more buxom and distinctively honeyed with a nutty nuance (particularly after being allowed to warm down a bit and breathe) in its hefty roundness. Pretty much a no-brainer for a premier non-vintage bubbly - pricey as it is for a nv, for me, it delivers.

A nice egg-based amuse bouche.

My starter was Seared Scallops, meant for the whites.

Unfortunately, my bottle of 1999 Domaine Michel Niellon Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet was not a healthy one - which I immediately suspected once I decanted it for aeration - as this barely 15 year old's colour was that of a white Burg over twice its age. Upon a few sniffs and sips as it warmed and breathed, it was obviously prematurely oxidised - not quite sherry-ish, mind you (as Arnie also noted), but enough to make it interestingly drinkable at best. Too bad; but it happens. Thus is the lot of those who buy even just semi-aged wine. It's all part of the game.

Good thing there was another white Burg on deck for the evening: 2001 Domaine Leflaive Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet - Alino's bottle. From the colour (as seen immediately above), this immediately appeared in good health; and a quick sniff and sip confirmed it. Popped-and-poured, its initial notes of somewhat tight, minerally apple and Korean pear fleshed out nicely, bringing with it slight honey, and discreet butter, nuts, vanilla and toastiness. Good focus, pleasingly lean, no excess fat here. Still quite young, it may already be enjoyed if one must. I believe this can improve even more over at least another decade.

Alino & Jojo.

For the reds, my main course was Roasted Pigeon, now, happily, back on Sala's regular menu. The flesh is very tender and juicy, and, actually quite mild compared to wild French pigeon. Perhaps this is farmed pigeon rather than wild? The reduction was a bit too aggressive for my taste, but, in all, quite a nice dish.

The red I enjoyed most with my main course was the 1987 J-L Chave Hermitage - Alino's bottle. Someone asked me about vintage 1987 in the northern Rhône, and, not being familiar with that vintage in the subject area, I passed the question on to Jojo - who knows Rhône much more than I do - all I know is that it was quite wet in Bordeaux. Jojo confirmed it was generally the same in the Rhône region, but didn't hazard a guess for the northern Rhône or Hermitage in particular.

In any event, this was a nice, warmly comforting, 3/4ths-the-way-from-medium-to-full-bodied wine showing more than decent depth in its molten red fruit/concentrated dark plum, with mild notes of black pepper, leather, iron/blood, and animal seamlessly woven in. Good balance, precise acidity, more than decent length. Definitely nice, and it went well with my pigeon.

Sniff, sniff.

I then tried out some 2006 Descendientes de José Palacios Moncerbal - Alex's bottle that had been aerating in decanter for around 2 hours or so by the time. Huge, massive, powerful, spicy, ultra-ripe, and overwhelmingly lashed with vanilla/oak. Alex & I, who have had this numerous times in the past, were very surprised with the level of oak-dominance as previous bottles did not show oak that aggressively. We figured it was because previous bottles were either popped-and-poured or were slow-oxed and/or decanted for 7+++ hours by JC de Terry before serving. Lesson learned.

The 3rd red of the evening is poured...

1975 Château Léoville las Cases - J-Lab's bottle (relatively recently sourced from a local private collection, I believe). Not being very familiar with Léoville las Cases' '70s vintages, I'd hazard that the previous owner had less than stellar/consistent storage facilities - as the wine was quite a ways tired compared to apparently well-stored bottles of '75 classed Bordeaux we enjoyed at Alex's past anticipated birthday dinner (i.e., '75 Montrose, Beychevelle, d'Issan, & Certan de May; 5th August 2014). Still drinkable, to be sure, but, without the depth and quiet power I know of las Cases' '80s & '90s vintages.

What did I just say about the game of buying aged wine? Well, we intrepid winos readily take the risks involved, as the rewards are well worth the occasional tired, prematurely oxidised, or damaged bottles. It's all fun anyway.

I had actually brought along a bottle of 1996 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, but the guys opted to have it saved for another day as some of them were driving themselves home.

Platters of Stilton & Sala's Signature "Fruity Bread" for...

2011 Dow's Vintage Port - Jojo's bottle, one he reported as being Wine Spectator's highest scored wine for the vintage. Smooth, amiable, well-structured & focused, with notable acidic balance and purity in its moderately sweet, dried dark fruit with light doses of toffee, chocolate and a hint of molasses. Neat and polished. Clean finish. This is the youngest vintage port I've ever had, and was very pleasantly surprised how enjoyable it was (I took another pour, as a matter of fact, because it went so well with the stilton and fruity bread).

Cheers!

Thereafter, four of us (i.e., Alex, J-Lab, Alino, & I) moved to Elbert's Cigar & Whisky Lounge (a.k.a., The Riedel Room) for some single malt, cognac, and, a puro for me. We didn't stay out as long as we usually do as Alino had an early morning flight back to London. Nice night all around. Until the next!

10 Most Memorable Wines of 2014.

So 2014 has come and gone, and, though I was too busy to regularly update my blog, that doesn't mean I stopped enjoying wine (albeit, admittedly, I didn't drink as often in 2014 as in past years). Thus, for posterity's sake (and to preempt forgetfulness), the following is a list of the 10 most memorable wines for me in the year past (n.b., all bottles with meals, 5-7 persons per bottle at most, "tasting" pours/portions do not count as far as I'm concerned):

1. 1985 Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Gold Label Vintage Reserve (in magnum, Clem Nieto's bottle), paired with Cyrille Soenen's rendition of Caviar Demidoff, at Brasserie CiÇou, 20th February 2014.

2. 1983 Domaine Louis Latour Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne (5 bottles throughout 2014, all mine, paired with various dishes involving lobster, foie gras, and scallops). Excellent wine, and not a dud in the whole batch. Those who profess not to appreciate chardonnay likely have never had a wine like this (or have the palate of a yak).

3. 1996 Domaine Coche-Dury Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Enseignères (Clem Nieto's bottle), paired with a couple of courses at Tivoli, during a dinner by visiting Michelin starred chef, Richard Toix, 27th February 2014.

4. & 5. 1997 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Grand Cru Musigny (Alex Tiu's bottle), and 1995 Château Lafite Rothschild (Clem Nieto's bottle), during the same dinner immediately above mentioned. Wonderful.

6. 1982 Château Gruaud Larose (Mehdi Tari's bottle), paired with Roasted Suckling Pig during dinner at Fook Lam Moon (the original/main restaurant on Johnston Road, Wanchai), 3rd April 2014. This wine never ceases to impress - I favour it more than all the 1982 first growths I've had.

7. 1997 Domaine Faiveley Grand Cru Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley (2 bottles in 2014, both mine, both excellent now, and, in my opinion, will improve even more over many years), paired with JC de Terry's Chuletón Vasco at Terry's Pasong Tamo, 21st June 2014.

8. 1983 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Grand Cru Grands Echezeaux (my bottle), during a surprise birthday party for Alex Tiu at Elbert's Riedel Room, 5th August 2014.

9. 1964 Château Rausan-Ségla (my bottle), during Catha's birthday dinner at Terry's Pasong Tamo, paired with Butter-Roasted Veal Tenderloins with Mashed Potatoes & Petits Pois Carrots, 27th August 2014.

10. 1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Aaron Palileo's bottle), paired with Grilled Lamb Chops during the Usual Suspects' year-end dinner at Mamou Too!, 29th December 2014. Beautiful as ever.

Here's to more great wines and meals in 2015! Until the next!

Lièvre (Hare) à la Royale with Châteauneuf-du-Papes.

Last night, the 4th December 2014, some of the guys and I eagerly braved Metro Manila rush hour traffic to congregate at Brasserie CiÇou for Cyrille's Lièvre à la Royale (literally: "Hare in the Royal Style") - so named because (although many stories abound) it is said that the dish was concocted for France's King Louis XIV (a.k.a., Le Roi-Soleil or "the Sun King") when he, because of persistent dental abscesses, demanded a dish fit for a king that was easily chewed.

Anyway, whatever its true origins are, this is, indeed, a dish fit for a king; and, having had it several times in Cyrille's former Restaurant CiÇou in Makati, I knew it was fit for us.

I arrived a bit late from Makati, so the guys were already making headway into some appetisers (herein of foie gras) and Sanju's bottle of Yeni Raki - a very popular brand of raki, which is Turkey's version of the French pastis, the Greek ouzo, etc. It tastes pretty similar to me - a nice, bracing, easily intoxicating, liquorice/anise reminiscent apéritif.

Cyrille shares some photos...

...entertains questions...

...and animatedly elaborates on the ingredients and preparation of lièvre à la royale. In the meantime, the first 2 of 4 bottles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape ("CdP" hereinafter) had already been opened and poured:

2010 Ferraton CdP Les Parvis - Alex's bottle, ordered from the restaurant's wine list. Sleek, neat, a rather polished, medium-bodied, decently structured CdP showing nice grip. The middle is decent, and the persistence/length quite acceptable. Predominantly grenache judging from its colour, flavour (quite "grapey"), weight, and frame. Sparing pinches of lavender and thyme. There must be little mourvèdre and syrah in this blend, as the meaty/gaminess our group looked forward to with the wild hare was absent.

That said, there is good typicity in this. I cannot fault this wine in any significant way, but, that said, it  was a bit too light, polite and "correct" for the rich, earthy featured dish. Likely still way too young as well.

Alex & Sanju discussing the 2010 Ferraton CdP.

1999 Château de Beaucastel CdP - My bottle. This was more like it. Materially bigger and heftier than the previous wine, this showed more depth, ripeness of fruit, and complexity. Moreover, the meaty-gamey-sanguine-iron notes were there, with a dose of garrigue, but in good moderation (nb., at 30+% mourvèdre in the blend). Notable balance, concentration, and good length. Nowhere as big as its vintage 2000 or 2001, but that's not a bad thing at all for me. Good show.

After the appetisers, I alone had a soup course (the French Onion Soup, of course), and we went straight to the evening's raison d'être.

Initially served naked (sans the sauce).

Cyrille anoints the dish...

...with the requisite sauce.

J-Lab, rushing from a late meeting, caught up just in time.

Voila - Lièvre à la Royale!

I won't bother trying to discuss the painstaking, time-consuming preparation, the ingredients (other than that the wild hare's blood plays an important role, as do foie gras and truffles, among many others), not to mention the depth of knowledge and skill needed to make this dish. I will tell you, though, that it is a rich, indulgent, slightly gamey heaven of a dish.

There isn't much left at Brasserie CiÇou, so, if you've a mind to try it, best hurry - and make sure to bring along a nice Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, or CdP while you're at it for maximum enjoyment.

2008 Clos des Papes CdP - Paul's bottle. Rich, somewhat heady, comparatively soft, somewhat creamy, sweetly ripened/raisined fruit, notable concentration, rather full-bodied. There seemed to be a bit of a maderised theme to it, and a somewhat chewy mouthfeel as well. Surprisingly open, precocious and giving at only 6 years from harvest.

2004 Pierre Usseglio & Fils CdP - J-Lab's bottle. Wow, here we go, baby! I found this to be raunchy, profane, wanton, shameless...in short, this was a bastos wine - and I loved how it gyrated with the wild hare. Meaty, sweaty, animal and old leather notes blended seamlessly with the fleshy, yielding ripe fruit. Big-boned, unabashed - like a wild boar running through the forest. At that point in the evening, a bit of kabastusan was, indeed, a welcome shift. This was my favourite wine to pair with the featured dish, shouldering my '99 Beaucastel aside unapologetically.

J-Lab contemplates the aromas as he mops up the last
of the hare's rich sauce with CiÇou's patented baguettes.

A couple of cheese platters with which to finish off the reds.

Dessert was, of course, Cyrille's iconic Kouign Amann with Salted Caramel Ice Cream. One cannot leave Brasserie CiÇou without having this for dessert - it's simply not done I tell you. Excellent as always. I've tried some other local renditions of this pastry (read: trying-hard, 5th rate copycats), but none even come remotely close. Truth is, even the "designer" kouign amanns in Paris do not please me as much as this does.

We also had some of Cyrille's signature mignardises, mandatory for my family and I whenever dining in Brasserie CiÇou. With them, a nice, and much needed, espresso.

Anna joined us later in the evening for some glasses of wine, marc, raki, and even a beer. We planned future dinners as well, including Cyrille's much awaited annual rendition of Babette's Feast. After profuse thanks to the Soenens, some of us (i.e., Alex, Sanju, & I) headed off to Elbert's Cigar & Whiskey Lounge for some puros and nightcaps...

...where we chanced upon a couple of friends/regulars catching some winks on one of the leather couches - prompting Alex to urge Elbert to charge them AirBNB rates for sleeping in the lounge.

Sanju, Elbert, Alex, & Jack

It was a wonderful evening all around, but, the flesh was weaker than usual. Thus, after just one double of my usual Tesseron Lot 53 XO Perfection, and a Partagas Serie D No. 4, I tore myself away and headed back home before I got too sleepy. Great night as always, guys! Until the next!

Quick Notes:1997 Domaine Faiveley Corton Grand Cru Clos des Cortons Faiveley.

With Saturday family dinner last night, 1st November 2014, at Champêtre, to pair with main courses (mine was Roasted Veal Tenderloin with Morel Sauce, and a side of fresh Chanterelles):

1997 Domaine Faiveley Corton Grand Cru Clos des Cortons Faiveley - The third bottle of this I've opened this year. All consistent - impressive, firm structure, big-boned, quite full-bodied, with good lift to its moderately spiced, well-ripened fruit. Mild sanguine and iron undertones. Wood is integrated rather well. A complete wine with notable heft, middle, finish, discreetly commanding palate presence throughout (no shouting here). Though still an adolescent, I believe this will continue to improve for many years to come. Enjoyable now; good ageing potential. I must find more of this.

Some Wines Enjoyed in Mamou Too!

I was at Mamou Too 2 days in a row a couple of weeks ago: lunch of Friday the 14th & dinner of Saturday the 15th March 2014, and had some pretty interesting wines.

Friday, 14 March 2014.

Late lunch with Alex and Paolo (Enki was out of town) after a hectic work week (well, they all seem pretty hectic these days), so much so that I didn't bother bringing any starting bubbly or white because I felt like just having meat and going straight to the reds (something that very rarely happens). I brought both bottles of red since lunch was my idea.

With some Dry-Aged US Prime Grade Rib-Eye...

...& Grilled Lamb Chops...

1985 Chateau Montelena Estate Napa Cabernet Sauvignon - Deep, nicely concentrated, mellow, soft dark fruit here on a neatly full-bodied frame. Good harmony and balance; this is what aged Napa cab should be all about, to my mind. Mainly moderately tobacco-and-loam-infused cassis, black cherry, and raspberry - the raspberry emerging more towards the back and trailing in a properly long finish, as do the cedar and well-integrated wood notes. Structure is good in this near 29-year old. Excellent with the indulgent meat dishes.

1995 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste - This was popped-and-poured, and followed the above wine, thereby, I believe, suffering a bit in comparison. Past '95 GPLs have been, to my recollection, generally fuller than this subject bottle, and have made more of a definitive statement on the palate (those were given material aeration time in decanter and glass). After the '85 Montelena, however, the subject bottle seemed a bit too lightweight, young, primary, and simple - but that's most likely my fault rather than the wine's. Pleasant enough, but not too interesting for me that day, in that setting.

Pecan Pie w/ Schlag & a double espresso after, as usual.

As we were sitting outside so I could smoke, we were informed that there would be 5 live Maine lobsters available the next day - so Alex and I immediately agreed to meet up again for dinner and reserved 2 of the lobsters. Alex treated Paolo & I to said lunch - thanks again, bud. Much appreciated.

Saturday, 15 March 2014.

Again, I brought no bubbly, but Alex did bring a white - and an excellent one at that.

2010 Paul Pernot Bâtard-Montrachet

Honestly, recalling a 2005 version of this same wine, from the same producer, that I had tried out a couple of years ago, I wasn't at all expecting this wine, young as it was, to perform a fraction as well/openly as it did. Initially, it showed as the 2005 did - rather tightly-wound, presenting more citrus and minerally crisp green apple more than anything - pleasant, though not that interesting...

...though it did go nicely with the 1st Maine lobster.

However, after around 40 minutes or so of aeration and warming down in glass, the wine, indeed, came into its own - like it became another wine altogether: materially and luxuriously fleshed out and much, much heftier, the initial tightly-wound fruit turned buxom, rich, well-ripened, with butter, moderate vanilla bean, ripe pear, just a hint of peach, some baking spice, whispers of nuttiness, and gaining a pronounced crescendo and a long, flourishing finish. Wow. Very impressive, especially for so young a wine. A beauty indeed...

...and, by then, a perfect match for the 2nd Maine lobster - this time, per Alex's special request, prepared with more butter, olive oil & garlic - reminiscent of Thanh Long's crabs. Loved it.

Each lobster came with an order of Lobster Rice, which was nice enough, but not exciting - until, as Alex recommended, I mixed in some dried pepper flakes. That made everything pop, and turbo-charged my appetite for it. Incredibly good.

Will this this lovely, young grand cru white close down? Maybe. Will it maintain and/or improve over the long haul? I think so, it certainly seems to have the structure for it, but only time will really tell. The only problem would be keeping one's mitts off it to allow it to age. Alex had bought out the entire remaining stock of Premium Wine Exchange's stock of this, and knowing him, the rest of his bottles of this won't last long. Time for some canvassing/searching on the net for more (especially since Catha loved it as much as I).

For the meat course, we, again, went for an order each of the Dry-Aged US Prime Grade Rib-Eye & the Grilled Lamb Chops, with which we had:

1989 Vieux Château Certan - my bottle. This is a deep, dark, serious, complex, typical, quietly and elegantly powerful Pomerol. Remarkable balance and finesse. Fine structure/backbone (the unusual for Pomerol cabernet sauvignon element, most likely). Everything is neatly in its proper place. I immediately ordered more bottles of this. Enough said, save that, a couple of days later, after I posted a photo of this on Facebook, Vancouver-based Vince Tan commented that he just had this at a 1989 horizontal dinner of the Commanderie de Bordeaux of Vancouver, and that it was his favorite Pomerol and wine of the night - even preferring it over the 1989 Latour.

1988 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - Alex's bottle. It's been quite a long time since I've had an Hermitage from the '80s, the last one I can recall offhand was a 1985 La Chapelle in sometime in mid 2009. This was a few notches over medium-body, very smooth, comparatively light-footed, and quite complex with roasted Provençal herbs, bacon fat, cedar, bit of gaminess, roast meat, bit of leather, hint of walnut skin seamlessy infused in its dark raspberry, strawberry and underlying black currant. Good, long finish. There could have been a bit more presence in the middle, but that's picking nits. A suave wine indeed.

Again, some Pecan Pie w/ Schlag, followed by double espresso.

Love eating at Mamou Too! The fine wines certainly don't hurt either. I made sure that they give me advanced notice next time live Maine lobsters are available - they're like gold in these parts. To go with them, I have some 1989 Louis Latour Bâtard-Montrachet & Corton-Charlemagne (im)patiently waiting. So, until the next!