Saturday Night Moules de Bouchot & Steak (Among Others).

My youngest son's 10th birthday is coming up tomorrow, but, since it will be a school night, we took him out to dinner Saturday night, the 24th October 2009. He chose Je Suis Gourmand and requested chocolate lava cake for dessert. It's not on the menu, but Chef Marc Aubry assured us way beforehand that would be no problem. We were just six in all: my wife, our 3 boys, a nephew and I. As luck would have it, Marc also informed me ahead of time that he'd have available some moules de bouchot, a favorite of ours and the children's as well.

Moules de Bouchot are small, particularly tender, juicy French mussels , the flavors of which are incredibly clean, pure, delicate and distinctive. They are raised by means of a centuries-old technique that includes the use of mostly old oak (and sometimes chestnut) poles to which the mussels cling, elevated and protected from predators (such as crabs) by a skirt below. Moules de Bouchot are unlike any other and are always a treat. The moules we had last night were prepared in the traditional manner - in a white wine sauce with bay leaves and some finely chopped celery, onions and a tiny bit of carrots - and served with frites.

I had to have this with some 2007 Laxas Albariño naturally - a wonderfuly crisp, dry, nervy, tense, minerally, yet still fruity wine from Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain). I've written several times that albariños are traditionally and perfectly paired with shellfish and other seafood dishes. I've also written that the 2007 Laxas Albariño won hands-down in an all-locally-available-albariño taste-off that Miguel and I organized at La Tienda a few months ago. The pairing was, of course, excellent and natural.

Naturally, we also had for appetizers old favorites by Marc that the children simply cannot do without: escargots à la bourguignonne, os à moelle (roasted bone marrow), terrine of foie gras and portobello mushrooms with oeuf cocotte.

The celebrant dug a little too quickly into his escargots and was reminded the hard way that these are served very hot. I told him to drink some cold water but, intrepid little diner that he is, he refused claiming that would waste the flavors of his favorite snails.

We had various main courses, mostly seafood as Marc has special seafood dishes out these days (but for a limited time).

My 2nd son with his Grilled Swordfish

My nephew's dish of Ravioli with Prawns and Mushrooms

My wife's dish of Seared Scallops with Proscuitto

Me? Because I've been craving some steak ever since reading Miguel's blog post on his most recent chuletón in Barcelona, I had a traditional dish of Steak Frites - an excellent, tender and juicy rare rib-eye with thin, crispy fries - paired with...

2001 Domaine Bertrand Ambroise Corton Grand Cru "Le Rognet" - A gift from Apple and Rocky, one recommended to her by her French wine consultant in Hillsborough, CA that she wants my honest opinion on. I didn't decant this, opting to leave the bottle open for over an hour and letting some air in my glass in the meantime until my main course arrived.

I made mental notes of this wine as I ate: Aromas were of mildly smoke, cigar ash and licorice infused dark fruit over deep raspberry, cherry, violets, sous bois, cedar, pine. A clearly rustic red Burg this, robust, bold on the palate, mirroring its aromas on a rigid structure. Balance was decent enough but could be better - there is a slight raggedness around the edges as well. Perhaps this will round off and come together more with added bottle age - the structure, tannins and depth of fruit of which can surely carry the wine through for many more years. Many thanks, Apple and Rocky, for the oportunity to test this wine out.

I have to mention, since it made me so proud, that when I handed my glass to my eldest son and asked him what he smells - after a few sniffs, he said "I can't really describe it well, but it smells like a forest". Loved it that he detected the sous bois notes. Note that I didn't express my analysis of the wine to anyone beforehand.

~ oOo ~

Some friends were there, Alex Tiu and significant other (I realize now I forgot to take a photo of them), the Vigneron family...

...and Uncle David and family.

Uncle David, aside from enjoying a bottle of 2004 Château Siran from the Vigneron's family estate in Margaux, sent my wife, Marc and I pours of...

2001 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten - I've had minimal exposure to the whites of Austria, what little I know coming from brief conversations with fellow IWFS member, Othmar Ober, whom I look to for information about all Austrian wine and food matters. I also imported around a dozen different grüner veltliners a few years ago to try and get a little feel for the wines (from Wachau, Kamptal and Neusiedlersee-Hügelland).

Since Othmar is currently out of the country, I didn't want to bother him with my questions so I had to surf the web for information on this winery. It turns out that this is a relatively new producer, a cooperative of around 600 members formerly known as Freie Weingartner, currently run by Roman Horvath and enologist Heinz Frischengruber. The vineyard area of this cooperative is approximately 420 hectares. As far as I can tell, "Smaragd" is the highest quality category of late harvested grapes (before the onset of rot) in the Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus, the appellation protection association of the Wachau. The word "Achleiten" indicates a single vineyard wine from the Weißenkirchner Achleiten vineyards.

Marc noted scents of anise in what I see as a wine with discreetly honeyed and spiced Mexican mango, peach and pear. No overt green pea, slightly grassy or white pepper notes I've picked up in the drier grüner veltliners I've had in the past. Nicely rounded and plump mid-mouth. Interesting wine. I believe Uncle David mentioned this is available at Kit Schroder's Lemuria, but I was too polite to ask how much it cost. My wife liked this a lot.

2005 Domaine Ostertag Les Vieilles Vignes de Sylvaner - Old vine sylvaner from an excellent Alsace producer heavily and long favored by Bernie Sim (he introduced me to Ostertag's wines several years ago). Interesting bit of trivia: the sylvaner of Alsace was originally brought in from Austria some 200 years ago.

I've always found sylvaner wines charming at best in their dry, low in acid, faintly floral, fruity (think a mixture of mildly tropical pear, apple and lemon/lime citrus). There is a submerged, subtle minerality as well, but this is clearly fruit driven. This, because, I suppose, it comes from older vines (the only V.V. sylvaner I've ever tried to my recollection), had comparatively more heft, ripeness, depth, concentration and length than all other sylvaners I've had. Nice, pleasing and approachable, albeit not particularly captivating.

~ oOo ~

Dessert was, naturally, the requested Chocolate Lava Cake with a choice of Chocolate and Vanilla Sauce which we all had an order of, as well as a complementary one from Marc . The children utterly destroyed them within seconds.

Many thanks, Marc, for yet again preparing such a wonderful and enjoyable dinner for us. And to the celebrant, happy birthday in advance!

7 Whites at Sommelier Selection.

Regular readers of my blog know that I frequently drink wines from Manila's resident wine crusader, Jerome Philippon. When it comes to locally/readily available wines from the Loire and relatively lesser-known French wine-producing regions, Jerome's Sommelier Selection is my go-to shop. Not many know that some of the wines that Jerome brings in are from amongst the best makers of their particular appellation. Off the top of my head, I can rattle off quite a few such as, among others:

1. Domaine Tempier - widely recognized as one of the best if not the very best producer of Bandol, Provence, not only for their rosé (which I and many others consider the very best in the world), but also for their reds from top to bottom;


2. Domaine Michel Redde et Fils - One of the stars of Pouilly-Fumé;


3. Domaine Bott-Geyl - I really like their wines and, for those who care, Robert Parker ranks Bott-Geyl as an "excellent" producer;


4. Domaine Champalou - a familiar name for those in the know as regards Vouvray, consistently named as one of the appellation's top producers;


5. Etc.

This past Tuesday, 20th October 2009, the Stockbroker, J-Lab and I were at Sommelier Selection tasting some whites for possible inclusion in the Stockbroker's soon-to-open wine bar. Naturally, Jerome was with us.

L-R: The Stockbroker, J-Lab and Jerome

These, in no particular order, are my notes on the wines tasted that day:

2005 Michel Redde et Fils Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Les Bois de St-Adeline - J-Lab was already into this when we arrived and mentioned that this wine had an alluring nose. Good thing he did as this reminded me to put myself on tasting mode and get down to business at hand. J-Lab was right. I noted a cool, fresh, floral cologne reminiscent of freshly mown, dewy morning grass, ripe guava, peach and citrus limestone and flinty nuances. These were mirrored on the palate with admirable focus on a taut, firmly structured just-under-medium body. Good wine.

2007 Champalou Vouvray - I recommended this to the Stockbroker, recalling that an earlier vintage was an absolute hit with my friends at Jerome's 1st France Wine Festival at the Tower Club - especially with the table of Los Golfos where repeated pours were requested. I also recall that this was the first wine to run out that evening and the late Tony Ortigas (God rest his soul) bought some to take home.

The 2007 is very similar to what I recall of the earlier vintage - memorable for its floral aromas of honeydew, quince, white peach and, to me, baby powder. Immediately charming, disarming and likable in its feminine, come-hither soft, curvy, off-dry, slightly honeyed fruit, discreet minerality and acidity. I like the way it playfully lolls mid-mouth and can easily imagine this as an apéritif, for sipping alone or with some mild chèvre.

2008 Château de Villeneuve Saumur Blanc - Laser-focused, dry, comparatively rather severe and masculine in its minerally very fresh citrus, pomelo, peach pit and straw flavors with bracing acidity. Firmly structured and with commanding presence and strong push, I do not imagine sipping alone - but with the proper food, J-Lab and I agreed it should do well.

2007 Michel Redde et Fils Pouilly-Fumé La Moynerie - Back to sauvignon blanc from the far eastern part of the Loire (the Vouvray and Saumur blanc are of chenin blanc, the former from the central Touraine region and the latter not far west of center). La Moynerie is the mid-range offering from this highly regarded producer, and a fine one at that. I've been a fan since I first tried this and their higher-end Cuvée Majorum around 2 years ago. The first time I brought some La Moynerie to my dad's house (an earlier vintage), we had it as an apéritif with some hot baguettes, moderately gamey chèvre and some chorizos - and my dad, brother and his wife (who are not really fond of white wine) went through the bottle really fast.

Fruity yet dry, well-focused/defined, limestone and flint infused white fruit, mild white grapefruit and gooseberry, hints of pear and guava - this displays its terroir cleanly, purely and proudly. Notable brightness, balance and cut. Pouilly-Fumé, along with Sancerre, are my hands-down favorite areas for sauvignon blanc based wines - and this rendition of Redde is a clear example of why.

2005 Domaine Plante d'Or Cour Cheverny Cuvée Salamandre - J-Lab and I had this before over lunch at Je Suis Gourmand with Jerome, Keiichi, my wife, her sis and brother-in-law on the 30th July 2009. I recall J-Lab and I liked this a lot, I had it with the cheese course. My previous notes describe this wine with flavors/scents of very lightly honeyed quince, citrus, some fresh herbs, limestone with a mouth-watering slight bitterness towards the rear.

I add now that it has a sweetish florality, cold-stoniness in its pleasantly rounded middle, and an intriguing, faintly waxy feel (vaguely reminiscent of a Rhône blanc marsanne/roussanne blend) on either side of my tongue just past mid-mouth. In addition, it displays praiseworthy complexity and balance in its structure, ripe/rounded fruit, minerality and bright acidity. J-Lab, again, liked it a lot and so did I. Very nice indeed.

2006 Bott-Geyl Riesling Les Éléments - The immediately above discussed Cuvée Salamandre was, in my estimation, a tough act to follow, but this wine was well up to the task. I last had this at the 21 August 2008 IWFS Alsace Dinner I helped organize and noted that this wine was a good entry-level riesling: lean, dry, straightforward, traditional and food-friendly - but needs more time, in my opinion, to flesh out and put on a bit of weight.

Well, over a year later, this wine has, indeed, evidently blossomed. Straight from the bottle into glass, it proudly showed off alluring, complex aromas of white flowers (think ilang-ilang and honeysuckle) intricately intertwined with ripe white peach, orange blossom, minerals and goût de pétrole. Incredible improvement; this has turned into a wine I cannot wait to pair with many dishes. Very, very nice. Definitely a new buy for me.

2007 Bott-Geyl Gewürztraminer Les Éléments - I think this is the first time I have tried the 2007 vintage of this particular wine. Lord knows I loved the 2006 and have gone through quite a number of bottles of it, my most recent notes on the 2006 being adopted from J-Lab's as:

Bott-Geyl Les Elements Gewurztraminer 2006 - I've enjoyed this wine quite a few times before. Lychee and roses. Quite sweet. Real easy to enjoy. Some people might be turned-off by the sweetness but I think this is excellent.

The 2007, obviously younger, presents the same roses and lychee notes typical of gewürz, but seems brighter, fresher, firmer, more focused and with a touch better acidic lift than its older sibling. It likewise has a nice viscosity and very friendly and pleasing nature. Clearly, this is a good follow up to their 2006 rendition.

The Stockbroker then had to take his leave to attend to other business while J-Lab, Jerome and I lingered a while longer with some glasses of Château de Roquefort's Cuvée Momentum (the vintage of which now escapes me), a rustic, spicy grenache-dominant Provençal red. Per the Stockbroker, we were to taste the reds another day. Good call, as, after several whites and the nicely ripe and sweetish gewürz, I then found transitioning to reds quite difficult.

Thus, as always, until the next.

Peking Duck with Pinot Gris, Etc.

Lunch today, 21 October 2009, was at the Taipan with Aaron, Apa and J-Lab. Peking Duck 2 Ways was what was on my mind - for a comparative pairing of an Alsace grand cru pinot gris and a single vineyard German spätlese. I also wanted to see how the said riesling would go with the Taipan's (usually) spicy Crispy Fried Pork with Salt and Pepper. As we decided on the other dishes, we sipped some of Aaron's...

Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut - By the giant Freixenet firm, this is a méthode champenoise sparkling wine which tastes and feels much more like a champagne blend than the usual cavas I encounter in that it is comparatively heftier, creamier, rounder on the palate and not "grassy", sharply minerally or acidic. The dominant, dry fresh apple, crisp pear and second-tier lemon/orange flavors have a very subtle white chocolate undertone mid-mouth and the merest hint of almond bitterness towards the back (but not in the finish).

Lively, bright and thirst-quenching, I'd say it would be more approachable to those not familiar with the more traditional cavas (I am assuming here that this is not a traditional blend of cava grapes). I made a mental note to save some of this for the Steamed Lapu-Lapu in Special Soy Sauce.

Available from Aaron/ADP Enterprises by December this year at approximately P1500 per bottle.

Not long after, our Peking duck was presented, then carved up for the 1st Way.

With this, we had first...

2005 Domaine Bott-Geyl Grand Cru Sonnenglanz Pinot Gris - Luscious, curvey and generously fruity from the get-go with grand cru weight and concentration. The soft, honeyed peach, lemon tarte, baked pear flavors are definitely ripe and somewhat creamy (noted by Apa), but with nice minerality, admirable freshness and balance. Its evident round fullness has precise heft and an alluringly viscous texture.

I've known Apa for so long, it is easy for me to tell if he is making bola - if his lips are moving, he is making bola (see photo above). J-Lab's known him even longer, so he knows this to be true.

It is difficult for me not to gush about this wine, especially when paired with the 1st Way of the Peking Duck. Admittedly, I am a big fan of this estate and am yet again kicking myself for not having visited them in Beblenheim when I spent several days in nearby Riquewihr, Alsace. This wine is a joy to drink now and, I believe, can gracefully age for several years. I see no point in waiting, though. Enjoy it now with Peking duck and thank me later.

Available at Sommelier Selection at around P2600/bottle, more-or-less, at full retail.

J-Lab and I noted, by the way, that this wine seemed at the cusp of being a vendanges tardives because of its level of ripeness/sweetness. I'd wager this, as such, would also pair well with terrine of foie gras. That will have to be another story.

Steamed Live Lapu-Lapu in Light Soy Sauce, behind is the Crispy Fried Pork with Salt & Pepper.

Shanghainese Fried Rice, behind is Spinach with Crispy Enoki Mushrooms

J-Lab digs in. I was a initially bit sceptical about the crispy enoki mushrooms, but he tried it first and pronounced it good. He was right.

With the steamed fish, I revisited Aaron's Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut since I knew the pinot gris would completely over-power this delicately flavored and textured dish and the riesling spätlese would be too sweet. The dry bubbly was surely the best match of the bottles present. As regards the (not so spicy this time) crispy pork, I poured...

2006 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese - I've had this a few times before. My last notes were from the 9th May 2009 during dinner at Je Suis Gourmand, and they are consistent with this bottle:

Light, sharply focused, pure, well defined sweet peach, fresh apricot, bit of lemon tart - all precisely lifted by bright acidity and typically pronounced minerality. Lovely wine, perfect for summer, and simply excellent with Marc's signature terrine of foie gras.

Further to my old notes above, the riesling had a sugar-watery and candied/dried ginger nuance I failed to include when I posted this. Apa accurately noted that, after the mouth-filling, creamy-fruited Sonnenglanz Pinot Gris, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese came off a bit too thin and light, and I definitely agree. I don't recall if it was J-Lab or Aaron who mentioned that we should have started with the latter instead of the former, and I likewise definitely agree.

That said, with the crispy fried pork and the 2nd Way duck, the riesling was a fair enough match, if wholly upstaged by the pinot gris. For this meal, we would have been better off with just another bottle of the pinot gris. I opined, however, that the riesling would likely pair better with the Thai/Thai-fusion dishes of People's Plalace, and they seemingly agreed. Available at Wine Depot at approximately P2200/bottle full retail.

Aaron in mid-strike at the crispy fried pork, the 2nd Way duck (Spicy, Deep Fried Carcass) beside him.

J-Lab and Aaron had a bottle each of red with them and offered them up. Aaron and I were fine either way, but, since Apa and J-Lab had meetings that afternoon, we decided to just call it a lunch and moved to the bar area for some double espressos and coffee. The two eventually took their leave and Aaron and I lingered until 5pm over a few stories and cigarettes.

As always, until the next.

Friday Dinner with Apple at Sala.

The night after the IWFS President's Dinner (Friday, 16th October 2009) was a nice, quiet dinner at Sala with my wife and Apple. Apple is only here for a week sans Rocky and the kids, so it is good she had time for a wine dinner with us.

I wasn't fully recovered from the night before, age has diminished my recuperative capabilities, so I decided to have some old reliable, familiar and comforting wines for dinner.

We arrived around 15-20 minutes before Apple, so I took the opportunity to open the bottles, keeping the white in an ice bucket and the red on the table (open but undecanted). Once we were complete and decided what to have, I poured some white to warm slightly and aerate in the glass.

Amuse bouche

With appetizers of:

Salad of Crispy Lobster Tail with Corn Purée and Roasted Pepper Salsa (2 orders); and,...

Grilled Marinated Quail with Parmesan Polenta Cake, Mushroom Fricassee and Truffle Foam...

2007 Domaine Roger Luquet Pouilly-Fuissé Terroir - From an old family of winemakers (5 generations and going strong) in Saône-et-Loire, Mâconnais region, that owns a totality of 24.25 hectares of vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé (6.10 ha. in Fuissé and Solutré-Pouilly), St-Verán (7.15 ha. in Davayé, Leynes, Chasselas and Solutré-Pouilly), Mâcon-Villages Clos de Condemine (4.3 ha. in Charnay lés Mâcon), Mâcon-Villages Les Mulots (6.35 ha. in Cortevaix, village of Clunysois) and Mâcon Fuissé (0.35 ha. in Fuissé). The average age of the domaine's Pouilly-Fuissé vines (all chardonnay) is over 50 years. Harvest of the grapes is by hand, and, for the Terroir line, vinification is done in stainless steel tanks and the wine sees no oak ageing.

I've had a few vintages of Luquet's Pouilly-Fuissé in the past, very casually in my dad's house, but the only notes I ever took were very brief - on their 2004 vintage at a Chinese wine lunch at the Taipan with some friends back in mid-December 2007.

Though initially a bit tight, severe and austere upon opening (it was a bit over-chilled), with around 15 minutes in the glass, the wine unwound, fleshed out and opened up. Good purity and focus in its unmistakable chardonnay flavors. Moderately tense, precisely ripe (for my tastes), fresh fruit on a firm, steely backbone, good acidity, moderate crescendo, medium finish. Its fruit was just ripe, soft and rounded enough mid-palate to complement the lobster nicely without jostling for position; the finish just long enough to cleanse and prime the palate for the next bite.

This is my type of chardonnay. Not huge, not overly ripe, not oaky; it is honest albeit somewhat simple, but fresh, clean and very food friendly.

With my main course of Roast Lamb Shortloin and Lamb Shortribs Confit with Root Vegetable Pâve and Shallot Jus, my wife's Sous-Vide Squab with Seared Foie Gras, Horseradish Potato Purée and Port Wine Jus and Apple's evening's special fish dish (the name of which I cannot recall), we enjoyed a bottle of...

1996 Château de Fieuzal - 1996 is definitely my favorite vintage thus far of this low-key Pessac-Léognan producer, better than the more touted 1995 in my opinion. I've not tried the 2000 yet though, having academically tasted only the 2004 and 2005 - the latter 2 seemingly a lot more modern in style than earlier vintages.

The last notes I have of this wine were from over a year ago - 27th September 2008 to be exact, during Miguel A's birthday dinner at La Régalade. I recall I, my wife, Doc and Mrs. Vigneron favored this wine that evening. My notes then were as follows:

Already a lot of bottle-age sweetness to this medium-bordering-on-full-bodied,ripe, red currant-and-kirsch-laced, cassis/tar/earth dominant wine with finely knit, with a vaguely smoky, sweetish roasted herbs and cedar surfacing mid-mouth and following through on the finish.

As earlier stated, this is not a particularly well-known, much less famous, maker, and I, for selfish reasons, am thankful for it. Its relative anonymity, especially in light of the international fame of riper/oakier/more modern-styled, Parker-anointed "stars" Smith-Haut-Lafitte and Pape-Clément, helps keep their wines under-valued and comparatively more affordable.

I recall the first time I made the Vigneron taste this, he enjoyed it greatly, and, after I told him how much it cost, he had only three words to say: "Buy them all."

Mrs. Vigneron came back for seconds of this wine and the Doc told me he liked this the most among the other reds that evening. I believe my wife felt the same way. I know I did.

The bottle last night was pristine, mature, showing more red berry (dark raspberry and a little cherry) on the palate than I recall from last year. The underlying dark fruit/cassis bear a slight leather, tobacco and "tar" nuance, the the dried herb and cedar notes are seamlessly woven in. Admirable balance and harmony. There is no need to wait on this wine as it is so enjoyable now. My wife loved it and so did I. I believe Apple did too.

~ oOo ~

Desserts were Mocha Soufflé with Vanilla Seed Ice Cream for Apple, Caramelized Banana Tarte Tatin with Maple and Mascarpone Ice Cream for my wife, and, my favorite Mango & Passion Fruit Pavlova for myself.

We lingered over a whole lot of stories, cups of coffee for the ladies (decaf for Apple) and a double espresso for me. Time flies when catching up with friends who live abroad and there always seems to be more tales to tell than time will allow. In this case, Apple had other friends waiting to see her at the nearby Shang so we reluctantly parted ways at past 11pm with plans for our regular Christmas dinner together with Rocky this coming December.

See you soon, Apple. Thanks for the bottle as always, and our best to Rocky and the girls.

International Wine & Food Society Philippines President's Dinner 2009.

Last night, 15 October 2009, I attended the International Wine & Food Society Philippines Branch (the "Society") President's Dinner, a black-tie event that the Society holds in the 4th quarter of each year. The venue this year was Old Manila at the Peninsula Hotel Manila, just under 50 persons attended.

L-R: Robert Burroughes, Sunny Garcia, David Ong & Kuni Munetomo

Cocktails were served at a cordoned-off area of the Peninsula's grand lobby, featuring canapés of chilled Fin de Clair Oysters au Naturel, Smoked Salmon Rosette with Crème Fraîche, Gougères (choux pastry puffs flavoured with gruyere) and Lobster Thermidore Vol-au-Vent. These were all washed down with a seemingly endless stream of crisp and lively Champagne Jacquesson Cuvée 732 NV; the bright lemon and citrus dominant flavours of which, combined with an entertaining slight breadiness past mid-mouth, paired naturally with the fresh oysters and provided a refreshing cut to the richer smoked salmon rosette, gougères and lobster thermidore vol-au-vent.

L-R: Freddy Pio de Roda, Othmar Ober, Johnson and Candy Uy & Eddie Yap.

L-R: Oscar Ong, Jojo Madrid, Jay Labrador, Christine and Keiichi Miki

By around 8pm, we were ushered into Old Manila, took our assigned seats and Director Bill Stone introduced our venerable 6-term President and Wine Master, Bernie Sim, who welcomed everyone and explained that the point of the evening's pairings were neither competitive nor evaluative, but, rather, for contemplative enjoyment. This suited me fine. As I do tend to over-think all wines I drink, Bernie's gentle reminder that the night was for sheer enjoyment was most well placed and duly noted.

In line with Society protocol, the guests were introduced by their sponsoring members, Director Jojo Madrid presenting good friend and soon to be member Keiichi Miki, as well as his better half, Christine...

...while Bill Stone introduced Bob Houldsworth and Brian Connelly to the membership and asked them to say a few words about themselves.

Thereafter, dinner proper was served.

The first course was Crab and Avocado Tian, Organic Leaves and Saffron Crème. The crab used was that of Pacific coast Dungeness crab, known for its succulently-sweetish pinkish flesh; the saffron, cream and white wine reduction painted on the plate; the organic salad greens simply dressed with olive oil; and, everything garnished with a bit of boiled egg, capers and parsley salsa. With this opening dish was paired...

2005 Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges - From walled vineyards owned by Jadot in Pouilly-Fuissé, within the Côte Mâconnais of southern Burgundy, very near Beaujolais. If I am not mistaken, this is the maiden vintage of this bottling of Jadot. Typical of Pouilly-Fuissé (and Burgundy whites in general), the wine is 100% chardonnay; highly regarded vintage 2005, as most know, was a roasted-ripe vintage, touted by some professional reviewers as one of the vintages of the century for certain areas of France.

True to the vintage, this wine is generous and, at this point, already notably lush and open; showing off, very ripe, rounded, broad, softly baked apple and pear, leesy, oaky vanilla notes with a finely interwoven, discreet minerality. Quite lavish and forward, but, somehow, comes off in balance; its lowish acid allowing the ripe fruit center stage.

This was indulgent pairing, a rich shock-and-awe opener of a white in line with the evening's celebration of yet another year of the Society's fine wining and dining. This was purchased from Alex Lichaytoo's Bacchus International, but I am not sure if it is still in stock.

~ oOo ~

The second course was Poached Lapu-Lapu Filet with Asparagus, Slow Oven-Roasted Vine Tomato and Vanilla Beurre Blanc. The fish was very fresh and delicately poached in a stock made from its own trimmings, while the asparagus, likewise poached, was tied with a length of chive making for a natural, simple, honest and enjoyable dish. The bit of tomato added a nice acidic lift to the enriching heft of the vanilla beurre blanc. With this dish we enjoyed...

2005 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Clos du Four Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine - Also chardonnay, from the best section of the domaine-owned vineyards in the town of Milly-Lamartine in Mâcon. Bernie surely served this wine to show a contrast in styles from 2 highly-regarded Mâcon producers in the same vintage. Unlike the openly lush, fruit-forward and eager-to-please '05 Clos des Prouges, the '05 Clos du Four was more firmly structured, leaner, edgier, nervy, minerally, purer and more focused in (likewise well-ripened) fruit, with more pronounced drive and acidic lift. It also possessed leesy vanilla/oak notes, but comparatively subtler and submerged.

Because of its leaner body, sharper/edgier focus and more pronounced acid lift, it made for a precise pairing with the fish, where, I'd imagine the Clos des Prouges would have over-powered it. Actually, I could just as easily imagine that the Clos du Four, because of its cut and good structure, would have also stood well with the previous dish of dungeness crab and saffron infused cream.

The presentation of the contrast in styles was both masterfully executed and deftly paired. Clearly, this shows why Bernie has been elected the Society's Wine Master for many successive terms.

~ oOo ~

After a Raspberry Sorbet, the soup course followed, a Duck Broth Scented with Jasmine Tea with Oxtail Raviolini. This was a clear duck consommé, lightly infused with jasmine tea leaves (3-4 minutes only, I understand), with twin, small raviolis stuffed with shredded, braised oxtail, small bits pumpkin and turnips thrown in and garnished with chive. With the soup was served...

2005 Louis Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules - From Jadot's monopole (i.e., solely owned, purchased in 1826) enclosed vineyard within premier cru Vignes Franches climat (approximately 2.2 hectares situated in the central west portion of Beaune's vineyards). I am quite familiar with and fond of this particular wine of Jadot, the antipodal vintages 1990 and 1999 especially - the mentioned vintages having nice masculine depth and seriousness without being at all cumbersome.

The 2005, while very young and, understandably primary and a bit tight, is already charming enough: raspberries and cherries, hints of underlying, earthy darker fruit and spicy wood on a shades-over-medium body with a silken texture. There seemed to be a hint of tea in this, but that could easily have been the consommé. I fully expect it will gain material heft, plumpness and depth after 4-6 more years in bottle, but I'm not sure it will grow up to be like the '90 or '99. Of course, I could be mistaken.

I understand that there was also some 2006 available that evening, but I somehow didn't get to try any.

The meat course then made its way to the table, Pepper Roasted Rack of Lamb with Pommes à la Dauphinoise, Ratatouille & Garlic Jus, and, with it, the most anticipated wine of the evening:

1999 Château Palmer - I expect everyone is familiar with this over-performing 3rd growth from Margaux (well, it is certainly priced above its classification anyway). 1999 is, in my experience an under-appreciated Médoc vintage. Certainly the '99 Latour shows prodigious power, depth, weight and breadth, Margaux its trademark elegance, Lafite Rothschild its ethereal complexity, etc.

Naturally, one has to be selective as even the '99 Lynch Bages and Pichon Lalande have left me somewhat longing for more respective hallmark traits; and the '99s seem to be drinking sooner at all levels. Still and all, there are a few exceptions, and, in any event, '99s are very reasonably priced - a vintage of good and affordable drinking.

That said, the '99 Palmer is not what I would call a wine priced for casual drinking at US$150 and up at retail (no thanks to high scores bestowed by certain professional reviewers). It is undeniably a good wine though. This was the third or fourth time I've had this, and, excepting the first bottle which I sadly mishandled on the way to a blind competition, they have shown very well - less than stellar vintage or otherwise.

Deep, serious and broad in its well structured gravel, darkly spiced black currants and cassis, cedar, violets; I swear if tasted blind I wouldn't guess this to be from 1999. With added aeration in glass, black cherry and a bit of plumminess emerge. Admirable balance and structure, this will get even better with more age. Much as we enjoyed it, Jojo Madrid and I think that it still has a lot of room for evolution. Great to be able to have this again. Another tip of the hat need be made to Bernie for acquiring these for the Society' cellar at a virtual song en primeur.

As regards the lamb, it was very tender and juicy and I truly enjoyed it. My only comment is that there was a bit more cumin thrown in the dish that interfered with my smelling the wine, but that's picking nits. I do recall thinking that a mature Cos d'Estournel (say '86 or '90) would likewise have matched the "exotic spice" spin on the lamb nicely.

L-R: Othmar Ober, Jay Labrador, Sunny and Boots Garcia & Kuni Munetomo

L-R: Ernie Fajardo, Ramon Diokno, Markus Ruckstuhl and Bernd Schulze Koehling

The cheese course followed featuring Bill Stone's choices of Pont-l'Évêque, Comté and Stilton, garnished with parsley coulis, shaved beetroot, balsamic reduction and a toasted bread stick. The Society is assured of good cheese courses as Bill also happens to be president of the Cheese Club. With the cheeses, we, naturally, had...

1995 Dow's Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port - from the producer's prized, low-yielding, elevated 49-hectare single vineyard named Quinta do Bomfim planted to touriga franca, touriga naçional, roriz and barroca. Scents and flavors of rich, dried dark fruit, fig with mere suggestions of molasses (in the nose) and chocolate. Concentrated and broad with medium length, it is discreetly off-dry, a natural and traditional pairing with Stilton.

The grapes lent a rejuvenating burst to the palate in between sips and bites of the cheeses. Robert, who has far more experience and knowledge with vintage port than I, said he liked it a lot.

L-R: Chinggay Rode, myself and Robert Burroughes

In the interim, Bernie congratulated Bill Stone and Markus Ruckstuhl for helping organize the evening. Credit was also given to Oscar Ong for creating the Society website - a fine one I might add, the envy of other IWFS branches to be sure. Oscar, after humbly acknowledging the much deserved round of applause, took the mike briefly and encouraged everyone to support the coming Asia Pacific Zone events, especially the one coming up in Cebu.

David Lim and Oscar Ong

Thereafter, dessert was served: Poached Pear and Rhubarb á la Tarte Tatin with Yoghurt Sorbet. Tarte Tatin, as most everyone knows, is actually an apple tarte baked upside down for intense caramelization, named after two French sisters of Lamotte-Beuvron in the central Loire valley (east of Blois), les demoiselles Caroline et Stephanie Tatin, who are credited by some to have created the original apple-based dessert. This twist on tarte Tatin was paired with...

2004 Château Doisy Daëne - This is actually a Barsac wine (due to archaic political squabblings, wines from Barsac may be labeled as Sauternes but the reverse is not allowed), generally known to be less unctuous, rich and opulent compared to Sauternes, but lighter-footed and with better acidic balance and lift (an exception that immediately springs to mind is Château Climens, e.g., 1986). I've had quite a few vintages from this maker and enjoyed them well enough, though was never impressed - and I'm sure many will question my judgment on that. I just have found them in the past a bit too simple and lacking in depth.

The 2004, however, seemed to me surprisingly heftier, fatter and more pleasing than older vintages I've tried (note that I haven't tried their 2001 and 2003). The acidity was slightly on the low side, but the wine as a whole was in good enough balance.

L-R: Manfred and Chinggay Rode with Lawrie Martin

Bill then, keeping with Society tradition, called the kitchen and waitstaff out to receive our thanks and applause.

Pours of smooth and comfortably warming Tesseron Cognac, a double espresso and another hour's chatting with friends brought the evening to a close for me. It was most enjoyable. As I always say, fine wine and food really don't mean much without like-minded friends to enjoy them with. I think that pretty much sums up why I joined and remain in the IWFS.

L-R, Standing: Candy & Johnson Uy, Lawrie Martin, Dong Puno, Othmar Ober, Bernie Sim, Oscar Ong and Ernie Fajardo. Seated is founding member and chairman Fil Juntereal.

Many thanks and congratulations again, Bernie, Bill and Markus for a wonderful evening. As always, until the next.