13th February 2010 Dinner @ Masseto: Nunc Pro Cras.

Valentine's Day this year falling on a Sunday, a group of us had dinner with our wives at Masseto the night before. We were 5 couples: the spouses Doc, Stockbroker, Wieneke, Recto and my wife and I. Bernie and Lucy Sim were there as well with their children, Bernie visiting our table every so often.

The Guys

The Dolls

My wife, I and Mrs. Doc (who rode with us) were the last to arrive. Bernie promptly sent over some glasses of...

1988 Dom Pérignon - Bernie's bottle, naturally. I recounted to Bernie and the guys that my father used to have a sizeable stash of 1985 and 1988 Dom Pérignon and we never could agree on which was better - I always favored the 1988 while Dad favored the 1985 (commenting once that my tongue was too thick from smoking to know any better). The last '88 Dom I remember opening was at the Doc's house - sometime in October or November 2008 - it was one of those dinners I didn't post notes on, I'm sure the Stockbroker was there, and I seem to recall that a private chef made dinner - but cannot, for the life of me, remember who the chef was.

In any event, Bernie's bottle was in excellent condition. The comparatively tense and linear character, almost painfully sharp focus and edgy lemon/citrus notes I recall of the other '88 Dom Pérignons I've had were gone - replaced with an expansive, generous, yet gracefully light-footed mid-palate of white flowers, clean white minerality, white stone fruit and underlying subtle, ripe citrus. Alluring effervescent biscuit and brioche notes emerging just past mid-mouth and on through the finish. The merest whisper of oxidation, to me, made this even more complex and captivating. It could likely go on strong for a few more years, but I see no reason not to enjoy this now and as often as possible.

This was followed by...

1995 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne - Alfred's bottle. I've had this several times in the past, and used to purchase this same bubbly from Säntis a few years ago at a very reasonable price - around P4800/bottle Eric recalls. The last post I mention having had it was during a grand Burgundy Bachanalia of Bernie back on the 18th October 2008, but I made no notes on the bubbly at the time.

My first pour was slightly under-chilled, so I took the opportunity to analyze the wine more. The fruit is riper, softer and not as vibrant as the preceeding bubbly, with a somewhat baked apple and pear character and hints of caramel and nuttiness therein. Nicely complex, if comparatively less enthusiastic and vivacious. Good champagne, but the '88 Dom was a tough act to follow as far as I was concerned. I should have tried this first.

In any event, the softer fruit went well enough with the savory flavors of my small Sweetbread Salad amuse bouche.

I love sweetbreads, so I was thrilled that it reappeared in crisper guise with the Sweetbread atop Ravioli in Sage-Butter Sauce.

I absoutely loved the above dish, the interplay of textures and flavors (e.g., the sweetbread's crisp exterior and slightly creamy interior plus the rich, nutty-sage-infused earthy ravioli) was simply natural and honest. No pushing the envelope or straining here, it was textbook in gastronomic comfort.

Having neglected to bring a white along, it was a stroke of fortune that Eric had opened a bottle of...

2004 Domaine Latour-Giraud Meursault- Genevrières 1er Cru - Eric's bottle, as stated. This showed openly and stylishly with toasty, leesy, gently spicy scents. The fruit (ripe, creamy lemon-laced pear and apple) is plump and ripe and the acidity is healthy; the oaken notes are obvious but the fruit could well handle them - admirable balance in this wine. Well-crafted. I liked this a lot with the sweetbreads and ravioli, as well as with my most anticipated dish of the evening:

Fresh Apahap and Clams - I loved Tippi's previous version of this dish (the fish then was halibut) during the Stockbroker's Year-End Wine Dinner for the Usual Suspects; so much so that during the group's all-day pinot noir and Burgundy fest a few days ago, I asked Tippi if I could have it and her fiduea again for the subject dinner. While the fiduea would have to await another day, happily, the fish and clam dish just happened to be on the subject dinner's menu. I must say that this dish was perfection to me, everything absolutely fresh, full of flavor and precisely cooked. I finished every bit of it and cleaned out the broth with bread.

Tippi jokingly commented later on that my bowl was wiped so clean it didn't look in need of any washing.

My other star of the evening came next - Tippi's Spaghetini alla Bottarga - I can't believe I forgot to take a photo of this masterpiece of flavors. Bottarga is akin to our own local "bihod", but the former is pressed in preservation and, in my experience, more intense in flavor. The former Syphus along Kamagong (Makati) used to serve a mean batch of bihod. Tippi's rendition of this pasta is delightfully spicy. It is a sensational dish that everyone, in my opinion, should try - over and over. I got up the next morning still thinking about it. Enough said.

Tippi with brother-in-law, Eric.

Next was my earthy, robust, comforting and very wine-friendly main course of Beef Cheeks and Wilted Spinach on Creamy Whipped Potatoes.

Fork-tender, richly moist and intensely flavored - no shortcuts here - Tippi obviously took all needed the time and care to render this slowly caramelized beef dish, and then some. Lovely.

In the meantime, we had already moved on to the 5 reds of the evening. Served blind, I was surprised that there was a challenge of sorts planned (I, obviously, was not informed of this) - not that I am the type to shirk wine challenges, but, not having been made previously aware, I brought a wine I wanted to eat with (particularly with the Burgundy-esque beef cheeks in mind) - which was firmly structured, very dry and with cutting red fruit and acidity - certainly not one meant to do well in blind challenges, the circumstances considered.

In any event, my notes of the reds follow below (just brief impressions, really, as the voting, to me, was at a rushed pace considering I was also trying to casually enjoy my previous dishes - one does not wish to, nor should one - rush through food as good as this). We were to pick out our two "favorite reds":

Wine # 1 - Very open and generous with a sweetly truffled bouquet. Deep, soft dark plum, raspberry, hint of kirsch, sweet cedar, violets, bit of truffle, over chocolate infused and pencil lead laced crème de cassis. Hint of prune emerged after a bit of time in the glass. Cherry and violets at the finish. Good ripeness. Certainly a fullish-bodied and well-rounded crowd-pleaser in style. It turned out to be Alfred's 1994 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.

Doc, the Stockbroker and I were very surprised when this wine's identity was later on revealed. We've gone through a few bottles of this before (including one that didn't fare well at one of our past blind Bdx challenges - the only Pichon Lalande entered not to garner at least 2nd place) and none have been even close to as nicely showing as this. Chalk up another in favor of well-priced, materially under-appreciated vintage 1994 Médoc.

Wine # 2 - Initially very similar in bouquet to Wine # 1. The Doc called this out as a St-Estèphe and the Stockbroker and Eric readily agreed. Visually mature than Wine # 1 in color, but with less obvious sedimant. More properly austere, a little past halfway between medium and full- bodied, less obvious oak. With time in the glass, wet tea leaf notes emerged in the surface raspberry and cherry. Notes of leather as well in its blackcurrant base. It turned out to be Doc's own 1988 Château Calon Ségur (Magnum) (indeed from St-Estèphe) - chosen, said he, because of the chateau's trademark heart shape on its label - a fitting wine for an advanced Valentine's dinner.

Wine # 3 - My wine at first glance. The Doc, Stockbroker and Eric called it out as Burgundy; Eric going so far as (accurately) narrowing it down to either 2000 or 2001. Barely medium-bodied, firm and bright acidity in its pure and somewhat leafy cherry and raspberry dominant flavors. Violets as well. Fresh and comparatively much brighter and obviously younger than the other reds. Surely enough (there was no real doubt with the guys and my wife) it was a Burgundy: my 2001 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans (Magnum) (from a hail-damaged vintage for Volnay, de Montille cut approximately 40% in selection).

I was sorely tempted to choose this wine as one of my favorites for the night, but decided not to because I figured nobody else would consider food-friendliness as a standard. My wife did though.

In the meantime, I quickly tasted the tasting portions Bernie had sent to the guys...

1989 Château La Fleur-Pétrus - Bernie's. Very Burgundian it seemed to me and I haphazardly called it out as such (my palate was still echoing the immediately previous Volnay) with notably soft cherry and raspberry over molten dark plum and violets. Very nice.

Amusingly, Bernie, who had been drinking Bordeaux at his table, made the same mistake but in reverse - thinking my Volnay (of which I sent him a glass) was a Bordeaux.

Wine # 4 - I had quite a difficult time choosing between this and Wine # 5 as my second favorite (Wine # 1 was an easy choice for hedonism). Deep, smoldering personality. Dark, dark, concentrated cherry, plum, cedar, violets with hints of unsweetened chocolate and "tar". Rich in texture, there is power in this waiting to be unleashed. Only my perception of better structure made me choose Wine # 5 over this as my second favorite wine of the night (a concession to personal preferred standards). It turned out to be Eric's 1999 Château L'Eglise Clinet - another impressive '99 Pomerol. When this wine was unveiled, I immediately recalled the Vigneron's 1999 Château Trotanoy that handily won him the crown not long ago at our Blind Bordeaux Challenge XIV.

Wine # 5 - Somewhat similar in personality with Wine # 4, this was a ruggedly handsome wine with admirable structure in its somewhat dense, minerally and meaty dark fruit. Impressive depth and length. My other favorite wine of the night. It was the Stockbroker's 1995 Château de Beaucastel Châteaueuf-du-Pape.

Results: The 2 favorite wines of the night were: Alfred's 1994 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Eric's 1999 Château L'Eglise Clinet.

My dessert of Chocolate Marquis then followed (sorry, I ate it before remembering to take a photograph) and, thereafter, I enjoyed a pour of 1989 Domaine Ostertag Gewürztraminer Séléction de Grains Nobles from Bernie. Aside from being an ethereal and graceful honeyed lychee and peach elixir (with fleeting notes of roses and petrol), it was a sentimental wine as well. Bernie shared a bottle of this over an all-game dégustacion lunch with the Stockbroker, Doc and I at Tivoli back on the 4th December 2007. I reminded Bernie that it was with this same wine that he taught me how to pair gewürz SGN with chestnut soufflé - a pairing I practise to this day.

This was followed by a full glass of Alfred's 1986 Château Raymond Lafon (Sauternes) - Pretty enough with soft notes of caramel, sweet peach, honeysuckle, apricot, honeycomb, vanilla bean and just a hint of orange rind at the finish, all on a barely medium-weight body. I feel it is very fully mature and its none-too-sturdy acidic backbone would have called for earlier consumption. Other 1986 Sauternes I've had (e.g., Yquem, Climens, Rieussec and de Fargues) were much more vibrant and alive. Still, a pretty enough wine.

Most everyone headed for home by then. I had a double espresso and sat with my wife, Tippi and the Wienekes, subjecting them to my views on wine and its proper appreciation (poor them). They did politely hear me out, though I did not leave them much choice. Happy Valentine's Day to all.

All Day Pinot Noir & Burgundy @ Masseto.

Yesterday's lunch, 11 February 2010, was at Masseto, as the Stockbroker called for a pinot noir (old and new world) based wine lunch. Aside from the Usual Suspects (sans Keiichi who is abroad), 6-term IWFS President & Wine Master, Bernie Sim, and Rolly (Dapper D's wine guy) joined us, making us 10 in all (J-Lab was late, catching up after lunch proper).

Clockwise from bottom left: Miguel, the Stockbroker, Aaron, Arnie, Greg, Rolly and Rene.

Some of the new world pinot noirs.

Some of the Burgundies.

I was a bit late due to work, ariving at 1pm, finding most of the guys already there, Bernie following shortly thereafter. Though Bernie was late like me, he had sent his over wines earlier in the day. Among others, Bernie brought more of the 1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru Clos des Ruchottes which we had not long ago over lunch in early December 2009 so we could re-taste it.

If I recall correctly, that last bottle was decanted for over 2½ hours before we got to it. This time, it was just opened and decanted for around 30 minutes at most before we re-tried it - but I get ahead of myself here. More on that wine later.

We kicked things off with some champagne.

2002 Champagne Taittiner Brut Millésime - Bernie's. Bright and easy, nice focus of crisp apple, pear, very mild citrus and fine white minerality, good rounded, discreetly milky/creamy middle (must have a healthy dose of pinot noir). Hints of brioche just past mid-mouth. Fresh and dangerously drinkable in its barely medium body. Having had a very light breakfast, it was a bit of an effort not to gulp this down quickly.

With my starter of Goat Cheese Ravioli with Olive Butter (most of the others had green salads with a crisped slice what looked like pancetta), I had...

2007 Raimbault Pineau Pouilly-Fumé - Miguel's bottle. I written about this producer's wine several times already and have thoroughly praised it each time: :Ever since Rene introduced us to this domaine's P-F, we've bought and gone through so many bottles and I've written about it in my blog so many times (both the 2006 and 2007 vintages), readers of my blog know well enough how much I love this fresh, fruity, extremely charming sauvignon blanc-based eastern Loire wine - especially when paired with goat cheese and simply prepared, fresh shellfish dishes."

This beautifully poised wine has admirable balance in its ripe fruit, floral and mineral notes and acid lift. It has put on a bit of weight and has developed a marked crescendo. As a pairing, it was absolutely perfect with the delicious chèvre ravioli and olive butter.

We then moved on to the reds.

2002 Costa de Oro Oro Rojo Pinot Noir - The Stockbroker's. From the others I asked, this appeared as the majority's favored of the new world pinot noirs. Though not at all over-bearing or over-wrought, this, to me, was the ripest (hotter area?), extracted, softly -fruited and one of the most concentrated of the new world pinot noirs. The oak ageing is apparent in the underlying creaminess, slight chocolate and mild, well-integrated wood notes. Though there were other big-boned pinot noirs, this seemed the most "mellowed out" and richly smooth to me. A crowd-pleaser style.

2001 Belles Soeurs Willamette Valley Pinot Noir - The Stockbroker's. Totally different in texture and body - cleaner, lighter and more red-berry focused in style, materially leaner and lighter in body but firmer in acid and more light-footed on the palate. Raspberry and strawberry over tartish cherry and a hint of cranberry. There was a strange soapy note to it, though, in both the nose and mouth that I found bothersome (everyone seemed to note it as well, and, no it wasn't our glasses).

2004 Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir - The Stockbroker's. I actually quite liked this one - it was purer in fruit and more graceful and light-footed than the 2002 Costa de Oro Oro Rojo, yet with more body, depth and complexity than the 2001 Belles Soeurs Willamette Valley. The red berries (slight notes of cola) are a bit sweetish, but well balanced with healthy acidity Good show.

Rolly hard at work.

My main course of Breaded Veal Chop with Mixed Greens.

2005 Alma Rosa Encantada Vineyard Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir - Arnie's bottle, purchased during a recent trip to California. Clean, good purity and focus, slight topnotes of forest floor leaves and pine needles to its dark raspberry and cherry. Another nicely light-footed one reminiscent of the Burgundy stye. Nice structure, restraint and balance. A bit straightforward yet very approachable, pleasant and easy to drink.

2006 Château de Puligny Montrachet Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes - My bottle. Young, I know, but having read that Etienne Montille has been in charge of this producer since 2001 and implementing an earlier-drinking style than that of his revered father, I just wanted to try it out. Anyway, having barrel tasted a few red Burgs in autumn of 2007, I figured 2006 1er crus should be drinking soon, so, I figured to sacrifice this bottle for curiosity's sake.

Notably too cold, I allowed it to warm in my glass for several minutes. Thereafter, it gained a nice depth, good push on the palate and a pronounced crescendo in its young, slightly leafy and resiny black cherry, dark raspberry, hints of dark spice and violets. On the rustic side, there seems to be more earthiness under there somewhere. Medium bodied and aspiring for more. Decent depth and nice complexity even now. Already enjoyable though young, I'd try this again in a year and follow this for around 3 or so more to see how it develops. Available at Wine Depot for approximately P3780/bottle.


1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru Clos des Ruchottes - Bernie's, from the domaine's grand cru monopole. Well structured, masculine and firm, the acidity was nowhere near disturbing unlike the previous bottle not long ago. Sous bois - slight mushroom and old, pressed violets in its earthy cherry, raspberry, dark plum and dark spice. Notable depth, complexity and confidence. Quite nice and certainly much more alive and over-all better than last time.

PWX Finance Manager and Masseto part-owner, Laraine Lim, briefly joins the boys.

A bit later, J-Lab finally showed up.

2005 Coldstream Hills Reserve Yarra Valley Pinot Noir - Rene's bottle. A concentrated, richly ripe fruit-forward pinot noir in the new world style, but not over-the-top. Much fuller and immediately showier than the earlier wines. I note that the spicy-toasty oak, while easily noticeable, is pretty well integrated. The fruit is soft and ripely sweetish. I'd say this would be readily approachable and pleasing to most.

1993 Domaine Esmonin Michel et Fille Gevrey Chambertin Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - Bernie's bottles (nb: renamed Domaine Sylvie Esmonin in 1998). Admirably youthful, this is in very good shape. Earthy, slight meaty and bacon fat notes lace the deeply-veined spicy black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, slight licorice and violets. Also a bit rustic. Very nice.

Serious wine discussions going on here.

2002 Summerland Bien Nacido Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir - The Stockbroker's. Big and ripe, fruit-forward, but it has subtle earthiness and good depth to the fruit and a notable balancing acidity. Suggestions of chocolate and spicy oak. Probably one of the better new world reds of this lunch.

Silliness started creeping into wine analysis as Rene and Miguel started castigating Greg for chopping a generous piece off the Stockbroker's mid-afternoon burger (which, by the way, is now available on Masseto's menu)...

...though Rene's fine sensibilities certainly didn't prevent him from grabbing a bite of his own from Greg's purloined prize. A bottle of riesling was opened then, but I really couldn't manage the switch to a white at this point. I took a few sips and remember it being dry, lean and minerally, but, after all the reds, it seemed a bit watered down. Unfair to evaluate the riesling at this point, so I did not bother noting down the wine or taking a photo thereof.

Cheese Platters with Grapes and Warm Walnuts were then served to accompany glasses of...

1977 Graham's Vintage Porto - Bernie's bottle, another generous treat of subtly luxurious mellow sweet, earthy nuttiness and dried dark red berries and plum. Supple, slinky curves mid-mouth, loved the balance of sweet and savory. Excellent with the bleu and warm walnuts. Sexy stuff...

...which inspired some rather racy speculation.

I thought we were finishing up by then, until yet another red Burgundy was opened.

2001 Domaine Alain Michelot Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Champs Pedrix - Rene's bottle. Typical Nuits St Georges rustic, almost broodingly muscled dark fruit (black cherry, dense raspberry, dried plum), violets, slight leather, whisper of meat. In good shape, still youthful. Nice, nice. I wished for some roasted pigeon and truffled whipped potatoes to go with this.

Cedric Le Gall, Marketing Manager for Asia of Red & White International (Asia) Pte., Ltd., then came by for a meeting with the Stockbroker and poured a few bottles of Aussie wines by Mount Langi Ghiran. I couldn't make the switch though, so abstained after a few sniffs of my glasses. I went out for a smoke and my glasses had disappeared by the time I returned - so the wines surely didn't go to waste.

Many of the guys had started to trickle off by then as dusk threatened to deepen into night. Bernie then made some of us stragglers try...

1999 Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne Les Estrambords - Bernie's bottle, of course. Surprisingly youthful and concentrated considering, per Bernie, '99 wasn't a notable vintage for the Côtes du Rhône. Seemed a bit modern in style to me (not that I know much of the wines of the area) with dense, jammy, dried black fruit, prune, cherry, kirsch, some herbiness, all buttressed by oak notes of chocolate and espresso. There is a bit of heat on it as well, but, after pinot noirs and Burgs, the subject wine's abv was probably emphasized thereby.

After a few while, darkness fell and Greg and I noted that rush hour was well upon us. Rather than spend our time in traffic, we decided to continue on with dinner at Masseto. Laraine, free of her duties by the time, joined us for a light dinner of very flavorful fried chicken (must surely have been marinated very well). I also ordered a platter of the delicious Bucatini with Spicy Tomato Sauce and Pancetta, and, of course, a bottle of 2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé to go with the meal.

Greg opened his bottle 2005 Oregon Pinot Shea Cellars East Hill after dinner and with his dessert of Warm Chocolate Cake with Honey Ice Cream. Cedric then joined us for his late dinner and a couple of glasses of wine.

Needless to state, by that time, I was no longer taking photos myself nor making mental wine notes. Greg left by around a little past 10 I think, so I hung out a little longer with Laraine and Tippi, leaving Masseto nearing 11:30. What a lunch. I can't wait for the next.

Flannery Steaks and Aged Napa Cabs.

Saturday night, 6th February 2010, was at Elbert's Steak Room. James (Doc's brother) hosted a special dinner featuring Bryan Flannery's steaks which James brought in from SF; Doc took care of the rest and again forbade me from bringing any wine. We were 8 in all: James, Doc, I (my and Doc's wives were out of town), the Stockbroker, Eric & Cinthy and Alfred & Cecile.

Because I post regularly at Wine Berserkers, I've been aware of Bryan Flannery's prime grade, dry-aged beef products for a little over a year now, but, until last night, I'd never tried any. James remedied that lack in spades. Bill "Tex" Landreth is Wine Berserker's resident expert in all things Flannery, so I sought his advice on how to cook Flannery's famous ribcap (i.e., the top portion of meat that curves around the eye of a rib-eye steak). Bill's instructions were executed perfectly by Elbert's chef Adrian.

We started off with Alfred's bottle of 2006 Château Haut Lafitte Blanc (no photo), a wine I tasted at the Union des Grands Crus event at Vinexpo 2007 in Bordeaux. Strangely enough, I only ever posted on the reds I tried then, never the whites. In any event, though I have my written notes on it, since that was 2½ years ago, I shall forego dwelling on the past.

At this point, the wine has materially fleshed out and showed plump, ripe fruit (I was also in Bordeaux in July 2006 and can personally attest that it was incredibly hot and dry), fleshy, somewhat waxy/creamy lemon drop, baked pear, custard and honeysuckle notes with underlying toasty oak/vanilla. The minority percentage semillon component is surprisingly apparent mid-mouth, with the sauvignon blanc's distinctive gooseberry quite subdued and more noticeable towards the back and finish. Acidity is notably low. Not my style of Bdx blanc, but I'd say very approachable for the many and user-friendly as well.

After my salad (I skipped the soup course), Doc poured me his Mystery Red - Alluring, open, stylish bouquet of truffled sweetishly ripe/dried dark fruit and dried black cherry with a minty topnote, discreet cedar and a bit of violets. The scents pointed towards Bordeaux if not for the modernish opulence of the fruit. In the mouth, it was notably concentrated (but not overly so), with cassis, ripe black cherry, slight dried tamarind, bit of chocolate, violets, licorice, cedar, whispers of mocha, cinnamon and toffee towards the back and in the finish. Smoothly muscled, full-bodied, richly textured but with good grace, poise and admirable balance, it said to me Bordeaux-esque Napa cab. I guessed it was an aged Dominus. It was, indeed, an aged Bordeaux-esque Napa, but it wasn't a Dominus.

It was a 1992 Philip Togni Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. I've only had one other wine from this producer before, also from the Doc, but I do not clearly recall the vintage - it may have been a '95. Nb: Per the guys, Philip Togni has a degree from the University of Bordeaux, was a student of the venerable Emile Peynaud and worked for a while in 2nd growth Château Lascombes (Margaux). It is, therefore, hardly surprising that his Napa wine has a Bordelais character to it. This actually seemed on the young side for me though already 18 years from vintage.

The much anticipated steaks were then served. Please note that James brought these steaks in himself. Flannery products are currently locally unavailable, but this may change soon. Await future news on this.

Bryan Flannery Private Reserve Rib-Eye Steak (dry-aged, USDA prime grade); rare for me, I think everyone else got medium-rare. One steak for each of us. I opted for fries on the side. Not as "nutty" as other dry-aged prime rib-eyes I've had, but more tender, juicier and more yielding than all others I've tried. The incredibly marbled beef's fat also came of as notably cleaner tasting and the "beefiness" more to the fore.

Bryan Flannery Midwestern Rib Cap. I was left almost speechless at the luxury of this cut. Literally melts in your mouth, more than any mouthful of beef I've ever had - and I've had it from all over. Not as overwhelmingly fat as Kobe (I can barely get through half a serving of Kobe before my palate is overcome). Words fail. You simply must. Thanks for the advice, Bill. Enough said.

I finished up my glass of '92 Philip Togni and moved onto the next aged California cab.

1991 Château Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - James' bottle. This is one of my favorite Napa producers and has been for a long time. Typical Montelena with an almost somber, deep, serious, confident character (as opposed to the showier Togni above discussed) in its earthy, leather, warm asphalt, tobacco and fine mineral laced cassis over dark raspberry and violets. Excellent balance, notable complexity. Loved it. Many years left in this wine, but an absolute pleasure to drink now.

I don't really recall all the vintages I've had from this fine producer, but the '91 must be one of the best, if not the best I've had from them. This I savored with the steak as I deemed it the driest and most food friendly.

Though I forgot to take individual photos of the next 2 reds, they were...

1993 Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain - Doc's bottle, and the 2nd Dunn I've had from him, the other being a magnum of 1995 Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon over dinner at Je Suis Gourmand on the 21st December 2009. Like the Montelena, this had a somber, serious character to it but to a lesser extent and not as earthy as the former. In addition, the two Dunns I've had so far had a sort of brambly slant to its smooth, very concentrated dark fruit, tobacco, black cherry and pronounced black coffee underneath. The wood also seems to be materially more apparent. Big, unabashed, masculine, powerful. Macho Napa cab. No need to rush this, it has a long life ahead of it.

1987 Dominus Estate - Alfred's bottle, purchased from the cellar of a late mutual friend. The label was a bit worse for wear, but, then, I don't drink the label. I wish this was served blind, but it wasn't. In any event, this had a seductive bouquet that reminded me of pressed rose petals, coffee-laced cassis, suggestions of kirsch, violets and sweet cedar. On the palate, there was bottle-age sweetened cassis, dark plum, kirsch, raspberry, violets with which fine notes of licorice, espresso and hints of baking spice. Very complex, somewhat feminine compared to the Montelena and Dunn. Total package of concentration, grace, flourish and balance. This was the Stockbroker's, Eric's and my wine of the night - just edging out the '91 Montelena. Excellent specimen of a Napa cab. No signs of tiring, but I see no good reason to wait on these.

Platters of assorted desserts then followed, but I abstained and went straight to my usual double espresso. Jokes flew faster, aided by the added conviviality that accompanies full stomachs and slaked thirsts.

The group then decided to head off to Masseto for a nightcap, but the Stockbroker begged off as he had a 20+km race the next morning. When we got there, I immediately bumped into Bobet and Ruthy Vera finishing up a weekend family dinner out.

Another red was opened -Eric's 1995 Château Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon I think, but, honestly, I can no longer remember how it was since I was busy chatting with the others. Towards the end of the evening, Eric opened a bottle of...

1998 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs - Eric's, as earlier mentioned. This was a particularly bright and vivacious blanc de blancs with pure, clean and enthusiastically fresh pear, green apple and lemon notes with, past mid-mouth and the rear, added touches of sourdough breadiness. The lemon notes come on strong in the back and finish as well. Because of its vivacity, it perked up and revived my palate - a good thing to be sure, but not necessarily desirable coming onto midnight in a wine bar. Thoughts of single malt entered my head. Fortunately, the others saved me from myself as they called it a night shortly after.

Many thanks to James for the luxurious steak-fest and to all who shared their bottles. Fun night.