Vinexpo Hong Kong: 25th May 2010.

Catha and I stayed at the Marco Polo Gateway Hotel again (5 days/4 nights) to be near my sis-in-law's place (a nice, new and modern condominium complex along Wylie Road, Ho Man Tin, near TST) where my children had been staying since the 14th May. Well, that and because I always enjoy riding the Star Ferry which also happens to be the most convenient way to get to the Hong Kong Exhibition Center (Wanchai) which is the regular venue for Vinexpo Asia-Pacific.

One just walks through the mall to the TST station, hops onto the ferry to Wanchai, gets off, goes onto the overpass and crosses over to the Exhibition Center.

Bottom-left are Eric Kahn and James du Vivier of Futuretrade walking through the crowd.

Since the UGC tasting (the main reason I attend any Vinexpo) was still much later at around 2pm, I wandered around the Spanish wine area, and, at the ICEX booth bumped into good friend and always busy Sandra Chan who is the Market Analyst and Chief Trade Officer of the Spanish Consulate's Trade Commission in Hong Kong.

Sandra, who is fluent in Spanish having grown up in Panama, was the Asian Journalists' Mission's most able guide and "den mother" in Barcelona, Rioja and Bilbao. We enjoyed that trip so much to a great extent because of her. Though swamped with work, she took the time to chat briefly with me, introduced me to Dennis Ho (Publishing Manager, The Corporate Grocer & Caterer) and made quick plans for lunch together with Carmel Yip (Editor, The Corporate Grocer & Caterer; Carmel, like myself, was also part of the Asian Mission to Spain) within the next few days.

As I went on my way, I couldn't help stopping by the booth of Bodegas Herederos del Marqués de Riscal, an old reliable producer of always comforting tintos Riojanos.

There I was received by José Luis Muguiro, one of the Marqués de Riscal heirs, member of the board and Director General Comercial de Vinos.

When I introduced myself and told him I was part of the recent Asian journalists' mission that visited the Riscal "City of Wine", he replied that he knew all about it, knew Javier Ybañez entertained us there, and, to my surprise, said he had read my blog post about the visit/tasting and thanked me for it. I know I sent it to Javier, but didn't think it would reach one of the owners. Good to know that the owners of so large and famous and operation are so hands-on as to read and remember just one of surely thousands of blogposts about Riscal.

It was also a very pleasant surprise to discover and meet Riscal's Export Department Officer and fellow Filipino, Eloísa Suazo, who told me she had just visited JC de Terry in Manila recently. As José Luis had to entertain some buyers, Eloísa graciously poured for me until I told her I could handle it myself so she could join the meeting.

2008 Marqués de Riscal Finca Montico Rueda Verdejo - I tried this wine, among many others, when I visited Riscal on the 25th March 2010, but welcomed the opportunity to re-try it at a more relaxed pace. My previous notes were as follows:

...Fruit from a low-yielding, highly vine-stressed single vineyard in Rueda's Montico district; gentle whole cluster pressing, no crushing or de-stemming; 4 months on lees with once-a-week stirring. The wine is bigger, more alcoholic and viscous, heftier, with a touch of creamy leesiness to the peach, pear and unsweetened marzipan notes. The floral and fruit aromas are more intense as well. Still, the freshness is there though and high acidity props the heavier fruit up keeping things very interesting. More of an eating wine than one for apéritifs given its girth. Could pair with richer seafood dishes like lobster thermidor or parmesan baked chicken.

This time, I felt the freshness of fruit and acidity was quite refreshing and, aside from going well with richer seafood dishes or baked chicken parmesan, it could also do quite well as an apéritif.

2007 Marqués de Riscal Roble - This is the first time I got to try this particular bottling of Riscal (a young wine under crianza level: e.g., jovenes and robles). Nice freshness in this 100% tempranillo from Castilla y León (NB: this is different from the 1860 roble bottling which has a similar blue label), if I am not mistaken, this sees barely 6 months in oak ageing. Fresh and vibrant dark red berries, some cherry, rasberry, a bit of underlying blackberry and very slight toasty-oak. I actually liked this quite a bit - it is straightforward, honest, simple, but quite friendly and readily pleasing. Nice. I'm not sure if this bottling is available locally, but it might be at Terry's.

2005 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva - Another one I got to try when I visited the winery in late March this year. My notes at the time were:

This couldn't have been released too long ago. Though not quite 5 years from vintage and still quite young, balsamic and underlying leather notes already peek through the correctly ripe fruit and oak/baking spice. Admirable balance and finesse here. I love how consistent and distinctive the wines of Riscal are.

Consistent with my above notes, I only add now that the wine is nicely smooth and warmly comforting. Good stuff and very reasonably priced as well. Have it with lamb, beef or grilled/roasted/sous vide/barbecued pork belly dishes.

It was already noon by the time, so I said goodbye to and thanked José Luis and Eloísa and hurried off to my lunch appointment with old college friend and compadre, Danny Sy, an international banker based in HK for many years now. Danny always takes us to lunch and/or dinner when we're in HK; unfortunately, his better half, Cecilia, was in Singapore on business while we were there. This lunch was just Danny and I, he treated me to lunch at Bo Innovation.

Danny was already there checking out the menu when I arrived.

Since I planned more tasting that afternoon and had the Commanderie du Bontemps Dinner to attend as well, I prudently declined Dan's offer of ordering a bottle with lunch (he couldn't drink either since he had to go back to the office) and asked him to be the one to do the ordering, requesting only that it be relatively light. Ever the consummate gentleman, Danny naturally obliged.

Foreground: Deep Fried Scallop Balls with Kaffir Lime Sauce; at the back, Har Gau Black Truffle XO.

Foie Gras Potsticker (top view)

Bottom "potsticker" view

French Quail "Beggar Style", Chinese Lentils & Wolfberry Chutney

Slow Cooked Suckling Pig with Chinese Vinegar & Egg

Fried Rice with Tobiko & Scallions

Chef-Owner Alvin Leung, Jr. takes a break from the kitchen.

Dessert du Jour was a nice Black Cherry Parfait

We spent the lunch hours enjoying our food - particularly noteworthy for me were the foie gras potstickers, both main courses and the fried rice - an catching up with each other, chatting about our families, friends back in Manila, etc. Though it is always fun when Dan takes out my whole family, it was really good to be able to have time with just us. Thanks yet again, Danny - as always, it was great catching up.

When I returned to Vinexpo to attend the UGC tasting (I was late as usual), there was a very long line to get in. I've never experienced this before in Vinexpo, whether in Bordeaux or HK. Not having the patience to wait, I just spent around 45 minutes chatting and having a smoke with Bodjie and Jayjay. I ditched the tasting thereafter and returned to the hotel, anyway, I had tasted both the 2006 & 2007 vintages more than once before so no big deal.

Vinexpo Hong Kong: Cru Exceptionnel Dinner at Yung Kee.

Spent 5 days in HK this week to attend Vinexpo Asia-Pacific 2010 and spend some time with the family (my children were there for 2 weeks staying with Ron & Mich). Monday evening, the 24th May 2010, was at old favorite Yung Kee (4th Floor) for the Cru Exceptionnel Dinner of the venerable Mr. Lau Chi Sun, editor and owner of Hong Kong's premier monthly wine magazine, WINENOW.

Mr. Lau Chi Sun

Catha and I were seated with the Vigneron and Team Grace Vineyard (China) at Judy Leissner's table. Judy herself was seated nearby at Mr. Lau's table beside us.

Judy Leissner and Mr. Lau

The Vigneron with Phélan Ségur proprietor Thierry Gardinier.

The Vigneron is currently head of the Cru Exceptionnel Group which includes Châteaux Siran, Poujeaux, Haut Marbuzet, de Pez, Ormes de Pez, Labégorce Zédé, Phélan Ségur, Potensac and Chasse-Spleen. Before dinner, there was a tasting of the Exceptionnels' 2006 & 2007 vintages.

Catha and I, however, were running late and, unfortunately, to make us even later, got stuck in the elevator for about 10 minutes, so I had little time to taste through everything before dinner was served. Thus, I skipped the 2006s (which I had tasted through not too long ago) and had a run through the 2007s. The 2007s that stood out for me, though, were, in no particular order:

2007 Ch. Poujeaux - This came off to me as the ripest and most concentrated from Bordeaux's rather cold and rainy 2007 vintage (the last 2 or so weeks in August-September were good though). Black currant/moderately spiced/creamy cassis and a bit of kirsch dominate over black cherry and underlying loam. Slightly over medium-bodied, nicely soft/rounded fruit and tannins. Good show for the vintage. As far as I know, Derenoncourt is the consultant here.

Mathieu Cuvelier of Poujeaux

2007 Ch. Ormes de Pez - One of the comparatively more extracted and riper ones of the tasting (though not to the extent of Poujeaux). Crème de cassis, loam, kirsch, licorice and a very apparent dose of toasty/creamy oak. Probably the most modern styled of the 9.

2007 C. Phélan Ségur - Shows the typical masculinity and "toughness" of St-Estèphe with cedary/sandalwood topnotes over earthy blackcurrant, black cherry, bit of dark raspberry and violets. Shows the vintage leanness, but a good, proper specimen of St-Estèphe all considered.

2007 Ch. Siran - Seems to have much more cabernet sauvignon in the blend than usual (probably because this ripens later than merlot so was able to take more advantage of the warmer/drier late August-September) and the hallmark spiciness from petit verdot is also quite apparent. Shows the vintage leanness, but comes off well after such challenges. Masculine, sturdy structure, blackcurrant, bit of cherry, more of raspberry, red spice, cedar and a bit of leather, violets and oak.

Not long after, we were seated for dinner; a bunch of color-coded decanters on the table, so I took it we were to drink the dinner wines half-blind. Mr. Lau then said a few words and formally introduced the Vigneron.

I suppose due to some requests from the guests and, wanting everyone to be totally at ease during dinner, Mr. Lau announced the identities of the color-coded wines...

...and dinner was served.

Though not listed on the menu, it is a sin to dine in Yung Kee without a bit of their famous 1000-Year-Old Egg with Preserved Ginger - for me and many others, it is the best in the world.

Roast Goose & Preserved Trotter with Soya Sauce - this was served with some deliciously coconut-creamy Deep-Fried Steamed Buns which Judy told me was specially prepared for the French guests who are happiest with bread during meals. Loved it.

Whole Wintermelon with Assorted Meat Soup

Sautéed Prawns with Spicy Sauce

Smoked Eel and Filet of Garoupa with Salt

Vegetable Plate

"Cloudy Tea" Smoked Pork with Kidney & Liver

More Deep-Fried Steamed Buns

Pan-Fried Spring Onion Cakes

There were Mini Egg Tarts, Barbecued Pork Pies and Fresh Chilled Lychees as well, but I forgot to take photos of them - a sure sign of my enjoying myself too much. The food was top-notch that night; and it is not surprising as no less than Mr. Kinsen Kam, Yung Kee owner/managing director, was at the dinner with his family, overseeing the entire event, ensuring all ran smoothly.

Now, as regards the wines:

2000 Château Siran - This, for me and for several at our table, was the dinner wine of the night. I've written several times about this my favorite (Doc's too) of the recent vintages of Siran. My notes from a year ago at a Siran vertical still ring true:

Already drinking well, but with long life and great potential for even more improvement ahead of it, this suave, smooth/supple-muscled, agile light-heavyweight is just beginning to really strut its stuff. Naturally more open than the previous youngster, it already displays depth and complexity underneath the fruit. The distinctive spicy notes, some fennel, iron, leather, licorice are well in play, the wood quite already nicely integrated. I enjoyed this a lot, as I always have.

1996 Château Phélan-Ségur - Mellow, dusty, some ceps, old leather-bound books and moderately smoky cedar on a medium body. A bit backward and a touch too austere beside the 2000 Siran. It is a proper enough St-Estèphe but, honestly, I found it a bit too hard and unforgiving in comparison. Not bad at all though, if a bit simple for this estate in generally a good vintage for the left bank.

Mrs. Vigneron arrived halfway through dinner, straight from the airport. Here she is dining at Chasse-Spleen's table with the estate's owner-winemaker Claire Villars.

1996 Château Poujeaux - I immediately recalled an IWFS Blind Tasting of 1996 Cru Bourgeois and 2nd Wines from 1st/2nd Growths back in 2006 where the '96 Poujeaux won best wine by a land slide. At an identical re-tasting it did badly and I do recall pointing out that the bottle then was nothing like the one that won in the first tasting.

In any event, this bottle was good, already mature but could go nicely for around 5-7 years more I'd say. Warm, mellow, good depth in its cigar box laced, well-focused rounded dark fruit, cassis, cedar, loam, slight Cuban tobacco, faint chocolate and leather notes. Slightly over medium-bodied. Nice and proper.

1988 Château Les Ormes de Pez - I don't know if my palate was quite on point by this time, but I recall there seemed to be a touch of stem/green in this wine. Firm/solid structure, blackcurrant, licorice, cedar, leather, violets - slightly over medium-bodied. Nicely integrated oak (probably not much new). Masculine wine. Tannins apparent but well resolved at this stage.

1997 Château Potensac - Actually, this was a pretty impressive wine given the general weakness of the vintage in Bordeaux. I commented that the owner is quite confident to pour this amongst such strong vintages as the 1996 and 2000. It did acquit itself quite well all things considered. Nicely clean, masculine, good concentration (for a '97), not overly extracted and very clean oak lines. This comes off as old-school, cabernet-dominated, well-structured, not so overtly fruity and (new) oaky like many are. As stated, quite impressive considering the vintage. Good show.

Judy pours for and explains each wine to Team Grace Vineyard...

Judy, ever energetic, bubbly and vivacious, also took the floor with Mr. Lau to explain certain new dishes of Yung Kee and discuss the wines served with dinner. The Vigneron told me he has some bottles of her latest release 2008 Grace Vineyard Chairman's Reserve resting at home and that we will taste them together soon. I look forward to it as I've only ever tried her 2005 (back in May 2008) and playfully dubbed it "Screaming Dragon" because of certain similarities to a subtler type of Napa cabernet sauvignon (which is a good thing for me).

Great evening. Catha and I enjoyed ourselves a lot. Loved the food and the company - a great dinner paving the way for the official opening of Vinexpo Asia-Pacific 2010.

Catha with the Grace Vineyard Team

Many thanks, as always to the Vigneron, Judy and Mr. Lau for having us over. We also joined them last Vinexpo Asia-Pacific (2008) at Yung Kee for my very first try of an all Sauternes/Barsac Pairing Chinese Banquet. To quote Wilson Kwok at that time: "This can only happen in Hong Kong." How true - and it takes Mr. Lau and Judy to put dinners like these together.