Alabang Group Christmas Dinner 2011.

Dinner last Saturday, the 3rd December 2011, was at Boozze's & Marg's place (they're the only ones in the group with a dining table large enough to seat 14-16) for the Alabang Group's annual Christmas dinner. We were 14 in all; dinner was by Hylton Le Roux's PI Catering.

Tonico Climent, Minnie Chiongbian, Maricel Abad, Willy Chiongbian, Margarita & Boozze Fandiño

Boozze's been getting into single malts lately, so there was a line up of the same available with the pica-picas. For lighter, celebratory fare, however, we also had a couple of bottles of...

Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur - Love this vivacious, fresh, softly rounded bubbly. I've said it before; I'll say it again: this is the best deal on non-vintage champagne one can get locally. Unfortunately, Premium Wine Exchange is now sold out (I got the last few bottles), but a new shipment will be in by January.

Kenny Quintal & Willy Chiongbian

With the single malts and champagne, we picked on some...

Nuts,...

...Olives...

...and some Jamón.

Margarita, Minnie, Maricel, Willy, Toñico & Yvonne.

With the Ramoses' arrival, we eventually moved to the dining room, and...

...after a final check on everything by our hosts, dinner was called for service.

Tonji & Ken arrived from an earlier drinking/sailing spree on Tonji's boat,
so Tonj (in green) was particularly animated that night.

The Menu

Hylton Le Roux & team in action...

...plating the pasta course.

Voila: Tagliatelle w/ Truffle Cream Sauce, Parmesan & Charred Asparagus

In Hylton's originally proposed menu, the pasta course was actually Truffle Gnocchi Salad with Camembert, Artichokes, Toasted Walnuts & Chorizo Oil; but, since I enjoyed his truffle cream tagliatelle so much when I had it at the recent Manila Gentlemen's Club Dinner, I wanted this group to try the latter, so asked that this be served instead. At the time, what I wrote about this dish was:

The first course was a superb Tagliatelle w/ Truffle Cream Sauce, Parmesan & Charred Asparagus. No fake synthetic "truffle oil" here; Hylton used an oil with real truffle bits, and the difference was evident in that the pungency and flavors were natural and subtle and not "trying hard" exaggerated.

From Marg's reaction across the table, she obviously enjoyed this dish as much as I. I recall Maxie did too - and his mom being Italian and an excellent cook, that's saying a lot. Boozze, well, he finished his portion in an instant, so I'm guessing he liked as well.

Maxie Abad & Ken Quintal on the right, as the hosts' children greet the adults.

The seafood course was Seared Scallops with Broccoli Purée, Artichokes, Caramelized Baby Onion and Bacon Foam...

...paired with 2008 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi Sec.

I also served this recently at the above-mentioned Manila Gentlemen's Club Dinner; my notes at the time being as follows:

I first had this during dinner with Sandy at Restaurant Gary Danko at the tail-end of a working trip to SF this past July. My notes then were as follows:

We both started with the Lobster Salad with Asian Pear, Mango, Avocado, Cashews and Lime Cilantro Rémoulade. This was very nice, light and refreshingly playful. To pair, I chose the 2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi Sec because I so enjoyed the 2008 Huet Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec during lunch with Domaine Huet proprietor Anthony Hwang this past 16th May 2011. I actually had the 2008 Le Mont Demi Sec earlier this year at the Stockbroker's tasting at Masseto, and figured that the Le Mont, being heftier and buttressed with more toasty leesy notes, would do well with the lobster - and that it did.

For the same reason as above did I choose this wine to pair with Hylton's foie gras dish, and, indeed, it had the right structure, body, comparatively sweeter/richer fruit and acid cut for the dish. Home run here if I do say so myself. Loved it. Available at Premium Wine Exchange for P2000/bottle full retail.

One thing notable about this particular single vineyard Vouvray Demi Sec (i.e., "off dry"; 100% chenin blanc; Le Mont is Domaine Huet's premier vineyard, producing the comparatively deepest, lushest fruited wine - the other two being Le Haut Lieu and Clos du Bourg), is that it is so food friendly and versatile in its, clean, vibrant/exuberant, membrillo, ripe pineapple, citrus fruit; its thrilling acidity; razor-sharp focus; and, impeccable poise and balance. It does just as well with richer seafood dishes as it does with foie gras...

...which is why I also had it served to pair with the following course of Seared Foie Gras with Almond Purée and Poached Cherries. While this group is accustomed to huge servings of seared foie gras (thicker, more seared/caramelized), age necessitates, nay, demands, more moderation. This dish, to me, was fine. I particularly enjoyed the fruity contrast of the poached cherries; and the zippy wine lent the dish added cut, lift and brightness.

A palate cleansing Melon and Thai Basil Granite before the fowl & meat courses of:

Roast Duck Breast with Braised Red Cabbage,
Pastille of Confit Duck Leg and Five Spice Jus; and...

...Roast Lamb Rack with Confit White Cabbage,
Smoked Potato Purée and King Mushroom.

The duck course was textbook "simple food done well" - warmly comforting and earthy - yet Hylton's technique was evident in that the roasted duck breast was juicy and tender and the confit duck leg meat was moist and yielding. I've been cooking and eating roasted magret de canard for years and rarely do I get one this tender and deeply flavored. Upon my asking, Hylton explained how he did it, but, out of respect, I cannot share what he said.

The lamb course (originally lamb loin until I advised Hylton that this group prefers lamb rack) was, in a word, superb. The lamb was perfectly cooked (as was the confit white cabbage), precisely seasoned, with the king mushroom adding depth in flavor, textural change, and, thereby, over-all gustatory entertainment.

We were all wondering, Boozze & Marge included, where we could get this king mushroom - and, later on, Hylton told us he gets it in South Supermarket, which our hosts' family happens to own and run. Boozze just shrugged and smiled when Ken and I ribbed him about not knowing about his family business' fresh produce products (in fairness, though, Boozze and Marg run their own business and neither of them work in the family's supermarket chain).

As to the red wines of the evening, since Boozze is a confirmed Napa-head, available for the fowl and meat courses were bottles of Napa cabernet sauvignon:

2006 BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve, and...

2005 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve.

Earlier in the evening, I suggested that we just open the 2005 Beringer CS Private Reserves first to breathe, and, the 2006 BV GdLs later on if needed. As far as I recall, after almost 3 bottles of the Le Mont Demi Sec (aside from the single malts and bottles of champagne), the bottles of 2005 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve were enough - Plush, rich velvety crème de cassis, bit of kirsch and dark raspberry, well-knit notes of mild dark minerality, bit of chocolate, vanilla bean and licorice. Softly fruited, pliant, full bodied, molten tannins. Surely a crowd-pleaser of a Napa cab. While this can age and hold for several more years, I think it's already very enjoyable now.

Dessert was a decadent, extremely indulgent Chocolate & Peanut Butter Fondant with Caramel Mascarpone. It's not exceedingly sweet like Reese's Peanut Butter Cups - which is a good thing for me - an adult, deeper and refined version thereof, kind of, with the peanut butter component properly discreet. I finished mine; and I don't usually finish my dessert. Enough said.

Hylton joined us for a glass of single malt at table after service was completed, everyone pleasantly full and not overly/uncomfortably stuffed - which is a good thing for a bunch of mid-40s diners. Upon our asking, he did candidly share with us some of his cooking tips as regards the dishes we had, but, of course, we'd not disseminate them. Lovely dinner. Thanks, Hylton.

Merry Christmas & Until the next!

Tau Yuan, Finally!

Tau Yuan, known for its Hainanese Chicken, Mango Lapu-Lapu and Xiao long bao, has been around for a few years - my wife and friends have long been there more than a few times, but it wasn't until Monday, the 28th November 2011, that I finally got to try it myself. It just happened - I was at the new LBC Express Corporate Office at Resorts World that day; Enky, Paolo, Monica and I were supposed to have lunch at Pancake House - and, remembering Monica's FB posts on Tao Yuan, I convinced them to join me there instead.

Their Hinanese Chicken deserves its fame: juicy, tender, cooked precisely, not too fatty, the seasoning neither aggressive nor weak. I don't really eat chicken, but I look forward to eating this one again. With their Chicken Rice, I loved it.

The Crispy Roast Pork was, well, a good enough specimen of the dish. I think one has to really try to screw up to make this dish badly and they certainly did not. Not too fatty, the skin crisp, the integrity of the meat correct. That said, it's nothing fantastic as far as this particular kind of dish goes - but certainly good enough. They served it with hoisin sauce and mustard. I prefer it with mustard and sugar, the way it is served in Victoria City Seafood in HK.

To ease the guilt of eating the pork, we had some Polonchay. Nice and fresh.

Aside from the chicken, what stood out for me was their rendition of Drunken Shrimp. These guys were presented jumping around in a big metal bowl, reveling in their Shaoxing bath. With ingredients that fresh, all one need do is season correctly and not overcook - and such was the case that day. Loved it. Monica had a funny comment that, while she enjoyed the dish, she wished that the shrimp had "peeled themselves before they died". That would've been perfect, but, probably, a tiny bit much to wish for.

The Mango Lapu-Lapu was pleasant enough. The contrast of crisp skin and fruit-softness was interesting, as was the interplay of sweet fruitiness and fish savory. I get what they are trying for, but, personally, I'd have a well-made (though ubiquitous) Steamed Live Lapu-Lapu in Fine Soy Sauce over this any day of the week.

I totally forgot to order some Xiao Long Bao to try out. I guess that just means I'll have to go there again for that - and I'd certainly not mind.

Manila Blind Bordeaux Challenge XIX: Cali Cab Wins Again.

The night before the Usual Suspects' Blind 1st Growth Dinner, the 30th November 2011, was the Grand Crew's Blind Bordeaux Challenge XIX, this time held at the Tivoli (Old Manila was closed for some reason). We were only 7 that night as Mrs. Stockbroker was out of the country. My last dinner at Tivoli was good enough (except for my corked bottle of 1990 Petit Village), so the change of venue seemed fine. Or so I thought.

Amuse Bouche - My bouche was not amused.

Although I loved the Lobster Bisque at my recent previous dinner there, while the flavors of this one were the same, this time somebody went way overboard with the foaming device. It was literally 50% foam at least. Very disappointing. Is "consistency" not in the restaurant's vocabulary?

Mrs. Doc's main course was a Quartet of Pasta.
When asked what her favorite was, her answer was "None."

Catha went for the Duck Confit for her main course, but I don't know what she thought of it. Everyone else had steak. Above was my US Prime Rib-Eye Steak. As you can see, it looked like a breakfast steak from Pancake House. Not only that, I asked for it rare to medium-rare and it arrived medium. Worse, it cost me the same as (or even slightly more than) a Double US Prime Rib-Eye from Mamou. While I do expect to pay more in the Tivoli, it would certainly be nice to get something halfway decent for the premium at least.

With the main courses came the competing reds.

Wine # 1 was slightly corked. From the outset it smelled a little dusty. One could still taste the wine, but, as time passed, the slight dustiness evolved into pronounced old cardboard. Obviously I voted this 4th Place. Aside from myself, the Vigneron spouses, Doc and the Stockbroker also noted it to be slightly corked. It turned out to be the Vigneron's 2001 Château Trotanoy.

Wine # 2 - With the first "chew", I decided (and accordingly indicated) that this was a Napa as I detected telltale coconut cream oakiness underneath the lightly truffled, full-bodied, dense, hefty, concentrated and very ripe crème de cassis and dark plum. Beside Wines #s 3 & 4 though, it seemed a bit lacking in refinement, so I ranked it 3rd Place. It turned out to be Doc's 1991 Ridge Montebello.

Wines # 3 & 4 - These two were so close to each other in quality, I had an extremely difficult time ranking them. Both were pretty classic Bordeaux, Wine #3 obviously with a lot more plum and, for reasons I no longer remember, I eventually ranked Wine #4 as 1st Place; leaving Wine #3 in 2nd Place. Wine#4 turned out to be the Stockbroker's 1982 Château Lynch Bages; while Wine#3 was my 1990 Château Petit Village. Mrs. Vigneron's rankings were the same as mine, which is not unusual as we rank wines the same in blind tastings more often than not.

Mrs. Vigneron tallies the votes as Catha looks on.

The Results:

It was a very close call for the first 3 slots:

1st Place: Wine #2 - Doc's 1991 Ridge Montebello, 20 pts.
2nd Place: Wine #4 - Jojo's 1982 Lynch Bages, 19 pts.
3rd Place: Wine #3 - My 1990 Petit Village, 18 pts.
4th Place: Wine #1 - Edouard's 2001 Trotanoy, 13 pts.

Again, Doc wins with a Cali red. We may as well start calling this friendly competition "Manila Blind Napa Challenge" with the way the majority has been voting as of late - taking nothing away from the 1991 Ridge MB, of course, as it is unquestionably a very good wine.

Ever magnanimous in defeat, the Vigneron treated us to a bottle of 1961 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. We noted that, unlike the one he entered in Blind Bordeaux Challenge IX (during which I ranked it 2nd Place after Jojo's 1994 Haut Brion), this one was not relabeled as it still bears his dad's name in the bottom left corner. Although, again, definitely a great treat to have, the first bottle was markedly fresher than this one.

The Stockbroker was the one tasked with the opening of the old bottle.

Naturally, we had to start ribbing the Vigneron for voting the Ridge MB as 1st Place wine (Doc and Catha also chose it as 1st Place). I teased him that he may well consider opening a winery in Napa - after all, Christian Moueix does a hell of a job with his Dominus.

Catha and Doc laugh it up...

...as does the Stockbroker.

A couple of orders of Crêpe Suzette for dessert...

...lent a sweet finish to a fun evening, the likes of which I have missed.

Until the next!

Blind 1st Growth Dinner.

Over a month ago, during one of the wine lunches of the Usual Suspects (that I was unable to attend), Richard came up with the idea of holding a blind 1855 first growth dinner. Scheduling was difficult as Richard and Jojo Madrid (a.k.a., the Stockbroker) had business trips coming up, so it was only last night, the 1st December that it finally took place - the venue was Premium Wine Exchange and dinner was by Gaita Forés' Cibo by M. We were 7 in all: Usual Suspects Jojo, Richard, J-Lab, Greg and myself, with "guest stars" Doc & Eric Recto. The Stockbroker had also invited the Vigneron, but he had a business trip to go to.

Jojo, J-Lab, Richard & I were the first to arrive.
While waiting for Greg, Eric and Gerry, we started off with a bubbly...

Champagne Krug Grand Cuvée - from J-Lab, a pre-LVMH bottle from the early-to-mid '90s I recall him saying. Lovely champagne: Full, lush, opulent mouth-feel and weight, preserved golden fruits, hints of gingerbread and fruitcake spice, nuts. A middle you want to hold in your mouth as long as possible. Fresh, long finish. Loved it.

Richard & J-Lab

Pass-arounds were Stuffed Parmesan Crisps...

Mini-Barquillos...

...and Roasted Bone Marrow on Toast.

Eric, who had arrived by then, popped open a bottle of 1999 Champagne Pol Roger Brut - Also lush and giving, a few shades less in weight than the Krug, this had a marked freshness and focus in fruit with an underlying, pillowy mid-palate "milkiness" (which I usually associate with a champagne's pinot noir component). Slightly biscuity already, this is good to go and, I expect, will continue to improve even more. Also very nice and, surely, a wonderful palate-primer. I, however, had most of my share with the pasta course since I was driving and didn't want to get hit too fast with bubbly on an empty stomach.

With Doc's arrival, dinner proper began.

The Menu

Chilled Japanese Edamame atop Ikura

Taglierini "Il Bianco" - Lobster, Bottarga Dust,
Cherry Tomatoes, White Wine & Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Grilled Bone-In Tenderloin, Red Wine au jus, Spinach-Potato-Manchego Mash, and, under the salad, Scallopine of Chicken Breast

The 6 reds are served blind. No vintage restrictions. We had to guess both producer and vintage - 1 point for producer, 3 points for producer and vintage, 0 points for vintage alone. It was a herculean task, especially because the wines kept changing with each pass. Unfortunately, I left my written notes at PWX and must now rely on a hazy, alcohol-addled memory (so I am not 100% sure I'm being accurate about my guesses until i manage to retrieve them):

Wine #1 - Looked to be quite aged with a medium brick-red. Medium-bodied at best, lacking a middle, a bit linear. Cedar, silky red cherry, dark raspberry and violets. I gave it one star ranking. I do not recall what my guess for producer and vintage but I was wrong anyway. No points. It turned out to be Richard's 1990 Château Mouton Rothschild (magnum).

Wine #2 - Halfway between full and medium, proper middle, there was an underlying chocolate to the comparatively hefty cassis and herb-laced dark fruit which made me guess it to be from Mouton Rothschild. I don't remember what vintage I guessed, but I was wrong about the producer anyway, so no points. I gave it a two star ranking. It turned out to be my 1994 Château Haut Brion.

Wine #3 - I do not recall anything about the wine except that I initially guessed it to be a Château Margaux from, I think, the mid-90s. However, after a couple more passes, I changed the producer to Latour. Wrong move. It turned out to be Greg's 2002 Château Margaux which I had given a two star ranking. No points for me. I should have trusted my first guess as to producer.

Wine #4 - The fullest, ripest and most concentrated of them all. Nice depth and balance. I gave it two stars. I vaguely recall I guessed it to be a Haut Brion, but I do not recall what vintage. One point for me. It was Jojo's 1990 Château Haut Brion (which he easily and clearly identified as his wine).

Wine #5 - Very tannic with huge grip. Quite closed and difficult to assess. I gave it a one star ranking and guessed it to be a 2002 Margaux. Wrong again. It was Doc's 1995 Château Haut Brion.

Wine #6 - A bit greenish and angular on the palate, but with a nice bouquet which made me give it a two star ranking and guessed it to be a Margaux, but I do not recall what vintage I guessed. It didn't matter though as I was wrong about the vintage anyway. One point for me - it was Eric's 1983 Château Margaux.

So, it came to pass that I was severely humbled with a mere 2 points (I think). It was a tough yet thoroughly enjoyable task - one I would not hesitate to take on again and again.

Jojo, however, was a completely different story. Aside form nailing his own wine, I do not know what else he got correctly but do remember that he was in the lead by very far with a total of 9 points. Moreover, his 1990 Haut Brion was voted 1st Place for the event (2nd Place being Greg's 2002 Margaux; 3rd Place being my 1994 Haut Brion). Congratulations to the Stockbroker! Well done indeed!

Apple-Pear Strudel, Vanilla Bean Bath, Dulce de Leche Gelato
w/ Negros Sea Salt for dessert, paired with a pair of Yquems...

J-Lab's bottle we had to guess the vintage of. It was a middle-weight Yquem, dark, burnished gold and amber, with a sugar-syrup finish to its slightly over medium heft and honeyed pineapple, candied apricot, orange rind & vanilla notes. Jojo and I guessed it to be vintage 1983 - and we were the closest. It turned out to be a 1982 Château d'Yquem from J-Lab. Jojo then opened a 375ml of his favorite 1988 Château d'Yquem - very rich, opulent, no-holds barred luscious, rounded, creamy vanilla bean infused ripe peach, candied apricot and orange marmalade. Decadent wines both.

Until the next Blind 1st Growth Dinner! (March 2012 was it?)

It didn't end there, though. While chatting outside with the Doc and Richard, sans any espressos to cap the evening off, it eventually came about that Richard, J-Lab, Greg and I proceeded for a nightcap to Distillery in The Fort.

With some Cuban Partagas Londres Finos (a gift from Clem Nieto)...

...we had a bottle of Lagavulin 16 Year-Old Single Malt which Richard chose since it is one of his favorite single malts. I don't drink much single malt, and found this very woody and smoky - even more than my cigar. J-Lab did tell me that this is a single malt for veteran single malt drinkers so I may find it very "different". Richard added that it was a "very particular" and "difficult" (which I take to mean not very accessible to beginners) one. They were both right. Greg and I found it...quite interesting. I don't think either of us'll be rushing off to buy our own bottles of this any time soon though.