Sunday Lunch w/ the Boys @ Caffé Caruso: 26 February 2012.

As I write to relax after a long day, I realize it's been around a month-and-a-half since I've taken the family to Caffé Caruso (I should remedy that soon). Last we were there was for a Sunday lunch of the 26th February 2012, (sans Catha as she was then staying at the hospital with my mom-in-law). Upon arrival, I immediately asked for my usual Campari Soda and for my bottle of red to be opened and decanted for aeration as we perused the menu. As always (I don't even know why we bother with the menu every single time we are there), we started off with:

Antipasti Caldi of spinach, eggplant lasagna, arancini, and mushrooms
(1-½ orders since Zach joined us).

Pizza alla Napoletana (tomato sauce, mozzarella & anchovies)

We've been dining in Caffé Caruso since Joaquin was around 4 years old - that makes it at least 8 years now. This tall lady has been attending to us for most of those years. She never fails to give excellent service, and comment on how big the boys are getting. Here she is watching nephew Zach serve himself some Insalata di Rucola con Pomodoro e Parmigiano. The pastas were...

Mauro's Tagliatelle alla Crema di Tartufo e Prosciutto di Parma

Lorenzo's Spaghetti Pomodoro con Melanzane e Ricotta

My Spaghetti al Sugo di Salsiccia Italiana

Joaquin and Zach shared the Veal Como and...

Risotto allo Zafferano.

I brought along a bottle of 2005 Ceretto Barbaresco Asij - I first tried this modestly priced Piedmontese red (purchased a couple of bottles to try from Wine Depot, Westgate, Alabang) over dinner at Keiichi's place last 28th December 2011 but without decanting and, found it a bit too blocky. This time, with around an hour or so in a decanter, it came into its own showing good, firm structure and typicity. Nice aromas of dark fruit, olives, "tar", bit of dried oregano, cedar and violets are mirrored on the palate. Good focus, push, palate-presence, rigid backbone, good acidity and a confident finish. Food-friendly stuff despite its evidently forward, notably ripe fruit.

I sent Dario Gardini a glass as always. He liked it too, commenting that "Even for lunch you drink good wine". He also mentioned at the time that he would very soon open a Caffé Caruso in Boracay. Desserts were:

Mousse di Cioccolato for Joaqi

Gelato Affogato al Caffé for Mauro

Sugar-Free Gelato Cioccolato for Zach

and Panna Cotta shared by Lorenzo & I as I can barely eat half of this.

Of course, I had a Double Espresso as well, but politely declined the grappa Dario offered.

Alla prossima!

A Heroic Lunch @ Mamou Too! for 2012 Araw ng Kagitingan.

Today, the 9th April 2012, was our National Day of Valor ("Araw ng Kagitingan"), so Jim, Alex, and I commemorated it with a wine & craft ale lunch at Mamou Too! (Rockwell, Makati).

Flutes of Mimosas kicked off the lunch.

From Jim, some excellent Rogue XS Imperial IPA. Powerful, macho, bright, hoppy, orange peel, citrus, with discreet underlying tobacco which continues on to its long, confident finish. Love the stuff; it also reminds me of the terribly hard-to-source Pliny the Elder by the Russian River Brewing Company (also an Imperial IPA) that Jim introduced me to. Definitely this is my type of ale. Jim intended this for the steak, but I liked it so much I virtually finished off my share of it before any food arrived.

Live Maine Lobsters just flown in - a photo before execution (for a worthy cause - they did not die in vain, I assure you).

We got the big one. Here Alex slathers it with even more butter (para mas masarap - f*ck healthy today).

Lobster Rice. Love it.

Grilled Lamb Chops. It was my first time to try Malou's lamb chops. It will not be the last.

Twin Dry-Aged US Prime Rib-Eye Steak (rare-to-medium-rare).
Excellent as usual.

Alex brought along some Green Tea Sea Salt as an alternative to the regular sea salt served for the steak.

Along with the Rogue XS Double IPA, we had 2 reds: a 2007 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve (from Alex) & a 2001 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino (from me). Both were excellent with the steak and lamb.

The 2007 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve was, as I recall, only the second or third 2007 vintage Napa Cab I'v had. Seems to me that vintage 2007 was a very impressive one for Napa. Alex had it decanted for aeration probably half an hour and then poured us some to breathe in glass. This is a very well-balanced, full-bodied Napa cab, presenting concentrated, not over-ripe or over-extracted crème de cassis, blackberry, bit of black cherry, slight dusty cocoa, touch of licorice, bit of violets. Nice mouthfeel, the tannins are smooth and molten. Focus and structure are good. Not surprisingly, this is something good and reliable for the cellar.

The 2001 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino is an old favorite of mine for grilled steaks (particularly with Gaita's Steak Florentine at her now-closed and badly-missed Pepato). My notes show that I had this last from Greg exactly a week shy of a year ago at a lunch of Usual Suspects at RED. My notes then were as follows:

Checking through my blog, the last bottle I have notes on was back on the 19th November 2009 at Kosh Sehwani's Snake River Farms dinner for EO at Enderun's Restaurant 101. Not surprising the time lapse, really, since my stock and that of Bacchus Int'l. ran out a long time ago. Bacchus does have more recent vintages though. My notes then were as follows:

My bottle, 100% sangiovese (called "brunello di Montalcino" in the Montalcino area). I've had this wine a few times before (as well as a few of other vintages of it). The Doc was the one who introduced me to this wine many several years ago. I last had this from the Stockbroker during his 2008 birthday lunch, side-by-side the more modern 2001 Casanova di Neri Brunello Montalcino. My notes then are still applicable:

"2001 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino - Off the bat, from the aromas, I opined that this one was closer to the classic/traditional style: More of sweet cedar, touch of camphor, ripe strawberry, raspberry, cherry, cassis, underlying espresso, light touch of licorice, tobacco, minerals, violets, a whisper of leather. The fruit was not as sweet, but well-ripened as well, and earthier in character.

Clearly more earth-driven (rather than fruit-driven) compared to the other wine - less polished, rounded and sleek as well; but firmer in structure, much better focus and definition. Much more properly reserved. I liked them both, but much preferred this wine as a match for the steak. This is more of an eating wine, it needs food to show its beauty, where the other wine I enjoyed more alone. I accepted a second pour of this one and drained every drop. Excellent match. Loved it with the steak."

This bottle was, as earlier mentioned, decanted and aerated since 12:15 - so over an hour before serving. I like the firm but flexible, somewhat lean but sturdy structure of this wine. Showed more apparent leather notes than last time. Definitely masculine brunello, if not particularly complex, but a no-brainer pairing with the steak.

Now, this wine seems much more relaxed, comfortable and at ease with itself. The fruit had softened and the middle broadened somewhat. This was my favorite match for my rack of lamb.

At the subject lunch, after decanting it for around 45 minutes before serving, it is more refined, calmer, and just as nicely firm and balanced as ever. Alex noted that it's acidity made it a good match for the steak and lamb. I, of course, agreed.

Cheers! Jim already looks sleepy here.

For dessert, Pecan Pie & Schlag, with...

...Jim's bottles of artisan Fortiverd Bleder Coba de Drac Imperial Stout from Catalunya, a fine pairing for the pie with its slightly over medium-weight, malty, slight caramel, coffee and cinnamon-laced profile. Thereafter, we "washed off" with a bottle of Freixenet Reserva Real Cava from me (which I forgot to photograph).

Lunch done, we moved to TABAC at the Peninsula for coffee and cigars. Some (Cuban) Partagas Serie "D" No. 4s for us 3, and Alex got a Cuaba after his. I stuck to an Irish Coffee with my cigar. Jim tried to as well with his, but Alex's horns came out and he, again, successfully plied Jim with some Macallan single malt. I left by 5:30pm. I wonder if they're still there....In any event, this was, undoubtedly, the best Araw ng Kagitingan I've celebrated. As always, until the next!

The Usual Suspects' 2011 Year-End Lunch @ Champêtre.

The biggest problem with catching up on a huge blog backlog of events is not being able to remember a lot of details on wines past, especially for events where so many bottles were open. The Usual Suspects' 2011 Year-End Lunch at Champêtre (30 December 2011) was such an event; so I can, at best, just give general impressions/recollections.

I recall we did start off with some champagne from J-Lab, but cannot, for the life of me, remember what it was. I do recall having my share with the above depicted Oysters w/ Smoked Salmon though.

Aside from orders of Marc's signature Terrine of Foie Gras,...

...he sent us a couple of orders of Truffled Foie Gras as well. With these, we had...

...some of Bernie's 1989 Domaine Zind Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive - Seamless peach, ripe apricot, honeysuckle, touch of orange blossom, underlying almond paste. Moderate sweetness. Nicely round mouthfeel. Acid on the low side. Nice with both foie dishes.

With the Roasted Portobellos with Oeuf Cocotte, and the...

...Escargots à la Bourguignonne, we had a bottle of...

...2009 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé from me. Excellent in itself and the escargots as always. I've written about this favortie rosé so often, I'll just leave it at that save from commenting that the herbs notes have come out more with an added touch of lavender.

The Stockbroker blinded us with his bottle of 1998 Gaja Sori Tildin. Nobody guessed what it was - I simply couldn't get a handle on it. All I recall is that it seemed in a very modern style in that it was quite dense, very concentrated and extracted, with prominent oak-related coffee and chocolate notes.

Richard also blinded us with what readily appeared to be a wine with age. I recall it was rather thin and tasted like a way past prime village-level red Burg. Some actually guessed it to be a red Burg (as well as an old northern Rhône which I didn't agree with as I detected no syrah). It turned out to be a...

...a 1976 Jean Goujat Beaujolais Villages. Richard explained that he wanted to demonstrate how an aged Beaujolais can take on some characteristics of a red from the Côte d'Or. In view of the guesses of old Burg, I guess he made his intended point. Then came the stars of our lunch.

Two beautiful Stuffed Roast Geese. We were 10 in all for those two geese: Jojo Madrid, Keiichi Miki, Jay Labrador, Richard Joye, Johnny Revilla, Bernie Sim, Oscar Ong, Jim Araneta, Alex Tiu and myself.

Marc then carved, plated and served with plenty more for seconds and thirds.

I had much earlier asked Jim to bring a bright, fruity ale for the roast goose (goose, because it is a fatty bird, is usually prepared/served with a fruit component to cut the richness and give some freshness and lift). Jim brought some bottles of Victory Golden Monkey Ale - a fruity and moderately hefty Belgian style Tripel. I thought it was an excellent pairing, along, of course, with...

...J-Lab's 2003 Gunderloch Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling Spätlese (which he brought during our 2009 Christmas Lunch also for the roast goose). This and Jim's ale were my favorite pairings for the goose. I had my reds afterwards. Good riesling and goose - definitely a fine match. The wine's nicely focused sweet peach, pear and lemon drop flavors and acidity were, in all, a fitting foil to the goose dish's richness.

Marc checked on us every so often to see if all was going well. In this photo he chats with Keiichi. When Keiichi was still based in Manila, we had very, very many long wine lunches in Marc's Je Suis Gourmand (now Champêtre).

Served with the goose was also a 1999 Domaine Frederic Magnien Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Keiichi. I do remember drinking this, but have absolutely no recollection as to how it tasted or smelled.

There was also a magnum of 1996 Reserve de la Comtesse from Bernie, which several expressed liking. Having had this many times before and never really thinking much of it, I left it to the others to enjoy. It's a nice enough wine, typical enough a Pauillac to be sure, but it just fails to interest to me.

This pair from Margaux I was much more interested in: a 1996 Château Rauzan Ségla from me and a 1999 Château Palmer from Oscar. When I popped open my '96 Rauzan Ségla the moment I arrived (no decanter available at the time), I told all to let it breathe for at least 40-45 minutes in glass for it to begin to open and put on weight. Most all didn't take heed and immediately tasted, precipitately opining that it was "closed" and "a bit flat". Whatever, some people are just in a rush I suppose. I've had this several times in the past 6 months and know it takes quite a while to open up.

Oscar's '99 Palmer was, by far, my red wine of the lunch. Still youthful, it is already coming together nicely. Much the same as a little over two years ago, but evidently more open and welcoming. My notes then were as follows:

This was the third or fourth time I've had this, and, excepting the first bottle which I sadly mishandled on the way to a blind competition, they have shown very well - less than stellar vintage or otherwise.

Deep, serious and broad in its well structured gravel, darkly spiced black currants and cassis, cedar, violets; I swear if tasted blind I wouldn't guess this to be from 1999. With added aeration in glass, black cherry and a bit of plumminess emerge. Admirable balance and structure, this will get even better with more age. Much as we enjoyed it, Jojo Madrid and I think that it still has a lot of room for evolution.

Alex and Jim

There was also pair of Cali Cabs from Alex: 2002 Chateau Montelena Estate & 2007 Souverain. I do not recall how the '07 Souverain was, but do remember liking the '02 Montelena. I do remember someone (I think it was Jojo) telling me that 2002 was a very good vintage for Napa cabs. There were more bottles of reds (aside from J-Lab's champagne apéritif), but I was not able to try or photograph them. There was also half a bottle of Lagavulin 16 Year-Old Islay Single Malt. Too much.

By then, the many bottles had begun showing their effects on some (Richard & Johhny).

Many were too full for dessert, but I simply had to have my Chestnut Soufflé with Chestnut-Armagnac Ice Cream. Fantastic as always.

Oscar, Johnny, Marc & Alex.

By past 4pm, many had taken their leave. A few of us lingered an hour or so longer, finishing the wines, Alex having a leisurely Cuban H. Upmann No. 2. Jim and I enjoyed seeing Alex, who always seems to get everyone around him hammered, himself get more hit than us for a change. Excellent way to end the year.

Until the next!