10th April 2013: Hanging Around the Jardin des Tuileries, then Dinner @ l'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (St-Germain).

Wednesday, the 10th April 2013, was another lazy day for me. Catha had gone off earlier to take the kids to the Louvre, but the employees were on strike, so they moved over to the Musée d'Orsay. I slept in, and, at around 2pm, hoofed it over to the Jardin des Tuileries...

This is my usual hangout when I am tired and am biding time until Catha is through with the Louvre or whatever other museum she goes to. I usually just have some double espressos, maybe a sandwich and tarte citron, then a cigar here. Having made dinner reservations at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Saint-Germain) for that evening, however, I just had a simple Italian-esque salad for lunch, and a couple of double espressos.

Only 1.5 kms from the apartment, we just hoofed it for the
6:30pm 1st seating.

Catha & I had dinner there twice before. Joël Robuchon had just come out of retirement the first time and, relatively new, it had no Michelin star (but was excellent). Sometime later, it had one Michelin star (and it was excellent). This, the third time, with the children, it has two Michelin stars (and it was very good, but a couple of dishes were opined to be not up to expectations).

We all started with the La Langoustine en Ravioli Truffé à l’Étuvée de Chou Vert (langoustine-black truffle ravioli with braised cabbage). Very nice, but we all agreed the langoustine ravioli at La Licorne was better. With this first course, we started on a bottle of 2008 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte -   Quite tight, vaguely nutty, a bit one-dimentional, citrus-led pear and green apple with a hint of white minerality. Clean and pure and with lively acidity.  Still a bit tight and the citrus obtrusive when taken alone, even when it warmed down in glass. Maybe just too young for my taste.

However, with our truffled langoustine ravioli starters, it did quite nicely - brightening the truffled richness and refreshing the palate between bites.

Salute!

Joaqi's 2nd course was La Oeuf Cocotte à la Crème Légère d'Ecrevisse et Truffe Noir (egg cooked in crème légère of crayfish and black truffle). While he did enjoy it a lot, he said he prefers Rob & Sunshine's "Eggs Benedict" at The Goose Station.

Lorenzo's 2nd course was Le Burger au Foie Gras et sa Sauce aux Aromates (foie gras burger and spicy sauce). He didn't think much of it, saying it was "just an ordinary foie gras burger". I began to suspect that I spoil my kids with good food too much.

Mauro's and my 2nd course was the Night's Special Asparagus - definitely some of the best asparagus I've ever had, but, it's just asparagus - so difficult to get too excited about. With this, I finished the last of the white.

Everyone's 3rd course was Les Spaghettis, obviously generously enriched with in-season black truffles. This was fantastic, and easily the most memorable dish of the entire meal. Excellent stuff.

With the generously truffled spaghetti, we started on the night's red which had been breathing in glass for around 35 minutes: 2004 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or (Monopole) - Expressive, nicely minerally nose. Just a whisper of Burgundy decay can be detected. Still quite primary, but already enjoyable. Well-structured and properly, roundedly firm on the palate (no soft/mushy over-ripeness here), it, in whole, still manages to come off with a feminine lilt. Nice focus. Good middle. Good length.

Many immediately turn their noses up and away from 2004 red Burgundies due to professional reviewers' general vintage assessments (some, I believe, actually press hard "looking for" reasons to match said general assessments). I hope they continue doing so, as that leaves more for the likes of me.

Joaqi's 4th course was, typically, L'Onglet en Tartare et ses Frites à l'Ancienne (tartare of beef onglet and old-style fries). He loved the tartare, but didn't think much of the fries.

Lorenzo's main (4th) course was L'Agneau de Lait en Côtelettes à la Fleur de Thyme (milk-fed baby lamb chops in thyme). He liked this a lot. I told him to just wait until he gets to try the grilled baby lamb in Spain (I did notice several Spanish-influenced dishes on the restaurant's menu, though this particular dish has been on it for several years - I know because I also had it there before).

Catha, Mauro, and I had for our main course an order each of La Caille Farcie de Foie Gras et Caramélisée avec un Pomme Purée Truffée (caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras with truffle mashed potatoes). Very nice indeed, and excellent with the Volnay.

Mauro's dessert was Le Cafe - Sabayon au Chocolat Manjari, Crumble au Cacao sur un Café Fort Glacé (The Coffee - Manjari chocolate sabayon, cocoa crumble on strong coffee ice cream). Whenever there is a coffee dessert on a menu, Mauro will go for it.

Lorenzo and I chose the same kind of dessert: Le Chocolat Tendance - Ganache Onctueuse au Chocolat Araguani, Glace au Grué de Cacao, Biscuit Oreo (The Chocolate Trend - creamy Araguani chocolate ganache with cocoa nibs ice and Oreo). Joaqi and Catha skipped dessert since they were too full.

Catha and I had double espressos after dinner. They served us a bunch of tiny madeleines and caramel blocks for mignardises and gave us a bagful to take back to the apartment as well. Not a bad dinner at all. We'll surely be back next we're in Paris.

9th April 2012: Lazy Day in Paris; Dinner @ Le Soufflé.

Tuesday, the 9th April 2013, after driving the family around France for two weeks, and, taking the kids around Paris and attending the gala the day before, I guess Catha took pity on me (either that or I was getting to be really surly and she didn't want to be around me) and told me I could have the day off, so she'd, on her own, take the kids to Our Lady of Notre Dame Church, the Conciergerie, lunch, etc.

Thus, I just stayed in the apartment, surfed, relaxed, had a snack at a nearby café, and, when I got bored in the afternoon, went to Le Bon Marché. She texted late in the afternoon that they were having merienda at Maison Berthillon and would be going back to the apartment after that. That evening, we headed off to the 1st arrondissement (where I prefer to stay in Paris) to have dinner at Le Soufflé (36 rue Mont Thabor 75001 Paris, France). We first ate there in July 2006 (it's been around for 52 years) and eat there at least once whenever in Paris.

As its name indicates, the restaurant is famous for its soufflés, having all-soufflé menus available. I had that once several years ago, and, though I enjoyed it well enough, that was just too much soufflé for me. Mauro, however, went for one of the tout soufflé menus, and started off with the Soufflé Fromage (Emmental et Comté).

Lorenzo & I each had the Onion Soup - absolutely superb, and perfect for the cold, rainy night.

Joaqi started with the House-made Saumon Fumé.

Catha started and ended with the Langoustine Soufflé.

For his main course, Mauro had the Soufflé Henri IV with Chicken-Mushroom Sauce.

Joaqi's Soufflé Jambon et Fromage (Ham & Cheese Soufflé)
which he said was boring.

Lorenzo & I each had an order of of Magret de Canard aux Pêches (Duck Breast with Peaches). It was nice enough for me, still soft and a bit juicy though cooked more than I specified. Lorenzo, however, didn't really like the combination with the peaches.

The bottle of basic, village level 2008 Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin was actually nicer than I had expected (I wanted something better and older, but the restaurant's wine list wasn't as good as it used to be). Pretty decent concentration and depth in the dark berries, underlying round, earthy dark plum, bit of sappiness, bit of violets, slight minerality, hints of tobacco leaf, and cedar. A few notches over medium-bodied. Moderately long finish. Not bad in itself, and reasonably priced.

Lorenzo's Raspberry Soufflé.

Mauro's Pistachio Soufflé w/ Chocolate Sauce.

A couple of Chocolate Soufflés w/ Chocolate Sauce for Joaqi & I.

Nice, comforting family dinner. Cheers!

8th April 2013: Touristy Paris Stuff & Dinner @ Chez Dumonet.

Monday, the 8th April 2013, Catha & I took the kids to doing touristy stuff around Paris since it was their first time in France. We had to get a bit of an early start since we were to attend the gala of the Philippine Art & Artifacts Exhibit at the Musée du Quai Branly that evening ("Philippines: Archipel des Échanges", subject of a linked earlier post).

Joaqi in our rented apartment's hallway
getting ready to go...

...making sure the laptops, etc. in the sala are unplugged...

...leaving the kids' room a mess (of course).

At the entrance of the Esplanade des Invalides.

We got the audio-video guides, and, since Catha knew the boys (me too, actually) would enjoy more looking at old armor and weapons, we spent the bulk of our time there at the Army Museum (la Musée de l'Armée).

Mauro checks out the equestrian armor of François I.

François I's sword.

Joaqi beside ancient children's armor...

...this one of the young Louis XIII.

I'd wear this.

Above is a suit of laminated armor (circa 1640-1650, Poland). It was made in the style reminiscent of the culture of the people of the Caspian Sea regions. The blades that make up the armor were shaped to look like scales.

Quing dynasty (1644-1911, China) general's battle coat.

Feudal Japan suits of armor...

...swords and fan.

A set of field armor and bard (i.e., horse armor) from mid-16th century Mamelouk Egypt. This style of armor (ringed network of full metal plates) was typically used by knights of the Ottoman Empire up to  the 18th century.

Well, dreaming is free after all...

What the...

...!?!?!?!?

¡Joder! Spanish helmets from the 16th century!

A mid-17th century commissioned painting by Jean Tassel of Louis II de Bourbon (Duc d'Enghien, later Prince de Condé) at Dunkirk, dressed in old style, receiving the subjects of Spain's Felipe IV. In 1559, by reason of the Treaty of Cateau-Cambrésis, France ceded Dunkirk to Spain. It was returned to France by way of sale by England's Charles II (for £320,000) on October 17, 1662, early in the reign of France's Louis XIV.

The painting, I believe, recalls the Battle of Rocroi during which the French army, under General Louis II de Bourbon, dealt the then seemingly invincible Spanish army a significant defeat (though Spain managed to take it back 10 years later).

The Dome's ceiling.

Napoleon I's Tomb.

The Crucifix.

Before the Eiffel Tower.

At the Eiffel Tower.

By then, we had to return to the apartment for Catha and I to get bathed and dressed for the first above-mentioned gala at the Musée du Quai Branly, of which I had posted on much earlier.

~ oOo ~

During the gala, Gaita Forés (who, with Vicky Pacheco and their crew, prepared the food for the gala's lavish reception) learned we were staying on rue du Cherche-Midi in St-Germain du Prés (arr. 6). She then highly recommended Chez Dumonet (117 rue du Cherche-Midi 75006 Paris, France) which was along the same street in the same arrondissement (the street is very long and crosses arrondissements).

We had to wait around 25 minutes for our table, but were quickly
given complimentary champagne apéritifs while we waited.

The restaurant, also known as "Restaurant Joséphine" (established well over 100 years ago) turned out to be just two minutes' walk up the street (our apartment building was at 100 rue du Cherche-Midi). I asked Lorenzo to make reservations for us for a late dinner, which he quickly did. The restaurant is reputedly one of the very best of the few old-style bistros left in Paris.

Amuse bouche of Pumpkin Soup.

Regular servings at Chez Dumonet are well-known to be very large, so most dishes are available in demi (half) portions. The immediately above photo is of Joaqi's starter of Foie Gras Terrine (full portion). Lorenzo opted for a demi portion for his entrée, which was just one thick slab of foie gras instead of two. The full portion turned out to be too much for even Joaqi (our resident foie gras and boeuf tartare freak), but Catha (who opted out of an entrée) and Mauro (who can eat a lot anyway) helped him out with the second slab.

Mauro's Crispy Langoustine starter.

My starter of Oeufs au Truffes (demi).

Finishing off our first courses.

For the main courses, I had actually ordered a bottle of 1999 Matrot Volnay 1er Cru, but they had run out and, instead, immediately offered a basic, village level 2008 Olivier Leflaive Volnay - Actually quite pleasant, though rather straightforward. Fresh nose, medium-bodied, a silky-smoothness that glides across the palate, healthy acidity, moderate length. Not that much of a middle, but acceptable. Juicy cherries, bit of dark raspberry, hint of ceps, underlying dark, ripe plum, hints of wild cherry trail in the finish. The fruit has a pleasant freshness to it.

I had wanted something from a better producer, older vintage, etc., but didn't feel like re-reading a wine list which wasn't kept up-to-date anyway. Besides, at its relatively modest price by Parisian standards, it was acceptable.

Catha's Boeuf Bourguignonne (demi).

I tasted the boeuf bourguignonne (incredibly tender and moist beef), and, while it is certainly one of the best ones I've had outside of Burgundy, its sauce seemed rushed, i.e., not anywhere as deep or flavorful as compared to that of Ma Cuisine.

A waiter helps Joaqi open...

...his full order of Oeufs au Truffes.

Renzo's Cassoulet (it was humongous, and very good).

My Mille-feuille de Pigeon (full portion). The pigeon itself was cooked nicely rare (very juicy, moist, and tender), but, really, cannot hold a candle to the depth, juicy, earhthy, caramelized splendor of Ma Cuisine's roast pigeon. The potato slices were too salty for me as well.

Mauro's Tournados Rossini aux Truffe (full portion)...

...served with real Truffle Mashed Potatoes.Mauro loved his main course.

An order each of Molten Chocolate Cake...

...for Renzo & Joaqi.

Catha skipped dessert and just had coffee. Mauro and I had each ordered the Grand Marnier Soufflé, but it turned out our waiter had forgotten to tell the kitchen - which was just as well as we were already too stuffed. They were very apologetic and said they'd comp dessert, Catha's coffee, and my double espresso. I told them there was no need for that as we were already too full, but they did it anyway.

Petits-fours