Friday, 26 Nov 2010, Part I: Buying Some Wines.

The Christmas season dinner rush has definitely started. Every day of this past week was filled with events, but, for work and health reasons, I couldn't attend most of them. This past Friday, though I looked forward to the back-to-back Alabang Group's Christmas and Rene's birthday dinners (both of which will be subject of separate posts). Said dinners necessitated bottles of riesling and Chablis, both of which I am out of stock - so, after work, I passed by the Stockbroker's Premium Wine Exchange (PWX) and Jérôme's Philippon's Sommelier Selection.

The idea was to make quick stops, pick up the wines on my list and head for home to avoid the traffic. It didn't turn out that way though.

At PWX:

There was actually a lunch at Masseto that day as Keiichi was visiting from Tokyo. I was unable to attend due to work, but, as luck would have it, the Stockbroker and Keiichi rolled in after the lunch just as I arrived at PWX, so, at least, I got to see Keiichi.

As I was selecting some rieslings (Dönnhoff, of course, the best Nahe riesling producer which PWX exclusively distributes), the Stockbroker popped open a bottle of...

1990 Louis Jadot Ruchottes-Chambertin - Popped and poured, I let my glass sit for several minutes as I pondered over the available vintages and lines of Dönnhoff rieslings and chatted with the guys and having a quick smoke outside with Keiichi. After probably 30 minutes or so, the wine opened up with a bouquet of vaguely smoky-and-cedary, sweetly ripe, confited plums, black cherry, notes of kirsch and a combination of old, book-pressed violets, ceps and slight blood and compost that make up, to me, the alluring and seductive Burgundy decay. A few notches over medium-bodied, this showed good concentration and restraint. Lovely wine.

It was certainly a pleasure to see Keiichi on this short trip of his, and, of course, to catch up with the Stockbroker who I've not been seeing as often as I used to. We discussed the unfortunate, impending closure of old favorite Je Suis Gourmand and the Stockbroker thought up the idea of our group's closing down the place for a dinner in mid-December. Brilliant idea. We'll invite all the wives and our fellow wine-loving friends to send Je Suis Gourmand off with a bang.

A double magnum of Potel's 2005 Volnay is just one of the bottles the Stockbroker intends to open at the coming event. The dinner promises to be legen...wait for it...dary. I wished I could linger more, but I had already stayed far longer than intended and had promises to keep.

At Sommelier Selection:

I quickly climbed the stairs, rattled off the wines I wanted to the staff (some bottles of Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet, among others) and was quite surprised when Jérôme - whom I thought was still abroad - popped out of his inner office to say hello. Apparently, he just arrived the evening before from one of his frequent trips. As the staff attended to my orders, Jérôme led me downstairs to his nearby temperature-controlled warehouse to show me some of his new goodies.

I did mention I was rushing back southward for a dinner during which I was to serve some of the wines I was there to pick up, and, so, was slightly perturbed when I heard a cork popping behind me as I was gazing at magnums of 2009 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé (of which I got some as well).

Domaine André et Mireille Tissot Indigène Crémant du Jura - Hmmm...probably my first bubbly from the Jura region that is not a predominantly poulsard-based Bugey Cerdon. Per Jérôme, this bio-dynamically produced bubbly is a champagnesque blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Bright, vibrant and lively with well-focused, clean lines of soft, creamy apple, pear, white flowers, slight minerals and a whisper of caramel, this also presented an entertaining, underlying white chocolate- milkiness that I associate with pinot noir in young champagnes. Nice, entertaining and dangerously drinkable, this is a good and, at approximately P2500/bottle, more-or-less, full retail*, definitely affordably-priced alternative to champagne - perfect for Christmas get-togethers.

*With my IWFS discount, the price is the less than buying it at KL Wine Merchants and flying it in myself.

Needless to state, it was already dark and I was already tipsy when I finally headed southward. Thanks, guys!

Some Rioja Gran Reservas @ La Tienda.

Dinner Wednesday the 24th November 2010 was at La Tienda for Aaron and I to get together with Miguel who recently got back from Europe and to present some of our wines as well. As some may know, Aaron and I (through Aaron's ADP Industries) bring in limited quantities of Spanish wines which we have personally tasted and enjoyed - focused mainly on aged gran reserva tintos from Rioja.

We were only 5 that evening: Aaron, Mig, myself and our guests: Jose Miguel Cortes (former head of the Spanish trade embassy who now works at ADB) and Jose Luis Romero-Salas (former president of the Spanish Chamber of Commerce, a.k.a., La Camara). Unfortunately, Rene, Jr. and Fernando Munoz (incumbent president of La Camara) weren't able to join us. As usual, Miguel coordinated with Chef Javi Lecumberri for the evening's menu. Mig and I came from work and the others were already starting on some vintage cava when we arrived.

2005 Segura Viudas Brut Vintage - From Aaron. A welcome bright, light, dry, lively cava showing off green apple, citrus, bit of lime, breadiness, faint minerality, with subtle, appetite-enhancing hints of almond-bitterness emerging past mid-mouth, towards the back and into the finish. Very welcome aperitivo and excellent with the warm bread and plates of...

Boquerónes and...

Gambas a la Plancha.

I must mention that Javi's gambas a la plancha are the best I've had in Manila, better even than many I've had in Spain. The only one that rivals Javi's in my experience is the ones at Ribera Manero in Barcelona.

Javi comes out to chat as the following dish was served.

This was a very interesting dish. As Javi explained, the little package of paper-thin pastry (I recall something exactly like this thin pastry at El Rincón del Vino in Logroño and it was called "pasta bric") was stuffed with Javi's home-made morcilla which was very good. I recall the savory package sat atop some confited cabbage and, per Miguel, was served alongside a beet purée. With this and, concurrently, a couple of servings of...

...Chistorras, we enjoyed glasses of...

Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad Accolades - From Aaron. A quick look at the producer's website shows that:

Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad is a limited production méthode champenoise wine originally reserved for members of the Segura family and their friends. Reserva Heredad is made exclusively from grapes grown in the estate's vineyards at Torrelavit in the Alt Penedès region of Spain. Only the first pressing of the Macabeo and Parellada grapes goes into the making of the cuvée. The yeast is added and the wine is allowed to develop in the bottle for up to four years.

Medium bodied and mellow with a perfumed bouquet, character and depth. A good fruit intensity on the palate and a long and slightly yeasty finish. Reserva Heredad comes in an exquisite hand-blown bottle with a slender, tapered neck. The bottle is emblazoned with the pewter crest of Segura Viudas and rests on a pewter base inscribed with grapes.

Further, this is made up of macabeo (67%) and parellada (33%), so, apparently, there is none of the usual xarel-lo in this cava. Fuller, heftier, relatively creamy and notably round, its fruit, like the Reserva Real's, has a slight dried/candied character to it. The Reserva Real has, to my recollection, a bit more depth, complexity and heft, but the subject cava does, in my opinion, have marked similarities. I liked this a lot and certainly wouldn't mind buying some for the house. Very nice.

Jose Miguel Cortes, Jose Luis Romero-Salas, Aaron & Miguel

By this time, we had also opened bottles of 2008 ItsasMendi Nº7 Txakoli (Miguel's) and 2008 Vionta Albariño (Aaron's). I've written about these wines several times already, so no real need to repeat myself here. The next dish was...

Pimientos Rellenos de Bacalao. Loved it. With this, the reds started to pour.

1995 Bodegas Campillo Gran Reserva - From Aaron. I last had this on the 24th August 2010, during dinner at home for Miguel's mom. My notes then are still applicable:

Pretty much consistent with the last couple of bottles I've had, it showed good depth of nicely concentrated, macerated black cherry, bit of kirsch and ripe raspberry with undertones of cedar, sweet tobacco, mildly toasty vanilla/oak, licorice, violets and whispers of cinnamon. Plush and soft, it has a notable heft mid-palate and good push (it somehow reminded me of a red from Ribera del Duero). The tannins are rounded, soft and velvety. Beto opined that this was a wine for food.

¡Chuleton!

1998 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva - From the producer. The last time I had this was around a month ago during a dinner at Elbert's Steak Room. My notes then are consistent with this bottle.

From a highly respected, traditional Riojan producer, I tried this once before during my last dinner (paired with Chuletillas de Cordero a la Braza Asados a la Zona) at Logroño before driving back to Barcelona this past April.

Immediately open, displaying well-concentrated, notably ripe dark red strawberry, cherry, raspberry, bit of dried plum, slight roasted meat, licorice, loam, cedar, violets, hint of underlying chocolate and sweetish pipe tobacco, touches of violets, vanilla and cinnamon. A few notches over medium bodied, softly layered, amiably complex, comforting and warmly welcoming. Acidity is just enough for good balance and harmony. Very easily approachable.

1964 Bodegas Faustino Faustino I Gran Reserva - From Aaron. This is the third time I've had the pleasure of drinking this wine in the past 3 months. The last time I had this was during a dinner on the 8th September 2010 at CiÇou. Then as now, it was enthralling:

My bottle, one of those that came straight from the bodega's own cellar and flown in from Spain by Miguel. We had one of these around 3 weeks ago at Mig's birthday lunch. This bottle was every bit as sublime: graceful, balsamico, cedar, vague nuttiness, old violets and faint ceps lace a silken, seamless, bottle-sweetened, lightly red spiced black cherry, darkly ripe raspberry and plum elixir underpinned by worn leather, with the merest whisper of oloroso at the finish. Ethereal. A wine of old romance. Very refined, elegant, and, belies its 46 years with lovely balance, good push and precise acidity that made for a natural cut-and-counterpoint to the lamb. Loved it then, love it now.

Tito Kiko Vecin, Miguel's dad, then arrived. He happened to be having dinner with Javi that night, but sat with us for a short while to chat and have a glass of the above-described aged beauty.

With some slices of Manchego...

1998 Bodegas Riojanas Viña Albina Gran Reserva - From the producer. I had this just under a month ago, during lunch at Mamou. My notes then, exact to the tee with this bottle, were as follows:

...This, I noted, was old-school Rioja, of a leaner, old Bordeaux-reminiscent style as compared with Riojanas' "higher" Monte Real line. Dignified, serious, proper and elegant - I could say "patrician". Firm structure, healthy acid balance, cedar, slight worn leather and even slighter balsamico notes are seamlessly woven into the dark strawberry, raspberry and wild cherry, with fleeting highlights of bright red spice. This is both food-friendly and contemplative.

The first time I had this, I was already convinced that Aaron and I shall make this available in Manila in the 1st quarter of 2011. This second bottle served only to reaffirm said conviction.

Miguel, Jose Miguel, Tito Kiko, Jose Luis & Aaron

It was an excellent dinner and it was great to have Javi's food again. I certainly had been missing it for quite a while. ¡Hasta la proxima!

International Wine & Food Society Philippines Branch President's Dinner 2010

This past Thursday, the 18th November 2010, was back in Old Manila for an IWFS affair. Due to various reasons, I've not been anywhere near as active in the IWFS the past few years - attending around only 3 events a year. One event I make it a point to make, though, is the annual President's Dinner. Bernie is a good friend and has been a very hard-working President and Wine Master for the past 7 terms. I always have fun at these events and it is the very least I can do to support an event in his honor.

I arrived late due to the traffic and so missed out on the pass-arounds and glasses of welcome Champagne Roederer Brut Premier. I didn't much mind, however, since I've enjoyed Roederer's lines numerous times, and, anyway, it is readily available at Bacchus International. Shortly after I seated myself, Bernie made his opening remarks...

...followed by Founding President Fil Juntereal's address...

...and, eventually, his passing on the President's Medal to Bernie. All we members know well how much time, effort and passion Bernie devotes to the IWFS, and we all are most appreciative.

Dong Puno, another past president, then gave a short talk and, thereafter, bestowed the André Simon Bronze Medal upon (past president) Rene Fuentes, Sr. (regular drinking buddy Rene, Jr. wasn't able to attend as he is currently dining around Tokyo with better half Aimee).

Rene, Sr. thereafter said a few words himself.

A dapper pair: Bill Stone, the evening's emcee, with Ernie Fajardo .

The Menu

In the meantime, we were poured glasses of chilled 2007 Domaine Vincent Pinard Sancerre Cuvée Harmonie - Sancerre, together with Pouilly-Fumé, both in eastern Loire (the former west across the river from the latter) are my favorite expressions of sauvignon blanc. AOC Sancerre spans no less than 15 communes including Sancerre, Chavignol, Verdigny, etc. Domaine Vincent Pinard, possessing 16 hectares under vine, is situated in Bué.

Served with the first course of Crab Salad with Lemon Dressing, Slow-Cooked Salmon & Citrus-Cauliflower Mouselline, the 2007 Pinard Sancerre Cuvée Harmonie itself is a markedly broad, lush, vaguely flowery, soft fruit-forward Sancerre underlaid by mineral and nervous cold limestone nuances. Quite hefty for a Sancerre, its soft-round-ripe (vaguely tropical), though nicely fresh fruit is buttressed with a good dose of vanilla/oak which emerged further as the wine warmed in glass. This was somewhat reminiscent of the late Didier Dagueneau's wines I have had.

Edouard Miailhe, Johnson & Candy Uy, Maritess & Louie Lee

Kuni Munetomo, Manfred & Chinggay Rode, Hans Brumann

Robert & Jen Burroughes, Sunny & Bootsy Garcia, Dieter Lonishen

David Ong's Table

The next course was Ravioli of Sweetbread with Mushrooms in Truffle Cream Sauce paired with 2005 Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg. Firm, edgy, nervous, very clean lines and admirable purity. The fruit is solid with nervous minerality; the acidity most precise. Lip-smackingly good stuff. Loved it. It provided excellent cut to the discreetly earthy cream sauce and cleansed and refreshed the palate between bites. Excellent pairing. This is my kind of Vouvray.

Gene Gonzalez and Jay Labrador

Bill Stone, Edwin Ong and Cecilio Pedro

This was followed by Duck Magret Emincée atop Sautéed Cabbage, Sherry-Duck Jus with a pair of 2005 Domaine des Héritieres Louis Jadot Côte de Beaunes. Alex Lichaytoo, seated to my right, imported these wines at Bernie's request for the subject event and recommended that we have the 1er cru Clos de Couchereaux before the 1er cru Beaune-Theurons. Though I was too involved in conversation to pay proper attention to wither wine, I recall the Couchereaux presenting in a feminine, more delicate and lighter manner as compared to the masculine, more solidly structured and heftier Beaune-Theurons. Both, to me, while quite decent, seemed a tad young to fully enjoy at this point. I'd certainly like to have these again in, say, 4-5 years from now.

Alex Lichaytoo with Cecilio and Edwin

Lawrie Martin, David Ong and Brendan Egan

Sr. Don Sunny Garcia

The meat course followed: Braised Veal Shank Topped with Sautéed Foie Gras, Oven-Roasted Veal Loin, Marbled Potatoes, Vegetables & Osso Bucco Sauce. I must mention that even my 17-year-old son who saw the above photo commented that the foie gras could have been better seared to make it look more appetizing and have more caramelized flavor. I did quite enjoy the veal lion though. With this dish we were served...

2002 Bahans Haut Brion - In all candidness, albeit I adore Haut Brion's grand vin, I've never thought much of Bahans Haut Brion in general, so it is a bit of an effort on my part to describe it factually/objectively: this firm, medium-bodied wine is a correct, pleasant enough Pessac-Léognan that shows clean enough, typical blackcurrant, bit of cherry, raspberry, underlying plum and touches of tar, tobacco and cedar. It drank well enough with the food, though, to me, none too interesting by itself.

I took an experimental sip of the grand vin of the same vintage and set it aside for after the meat course (I believe Lawrie did as well) and either with the cheese course or by itself.

Meanwhile, Markus Ruckstuhl (whose birthday it was that day) had introduced his guest...

...as had Robbie Delgado.

Earlier on, members Kuni Munetomo, Johnson Uy and Louie Lee received their official IWFS medallions from Bernie and Oscar Ong.

Kuni-san

Johnson

Louie

I had some of my 2002 Château Haut Brion with the cheese (drinking most of it by itself) - except for the bleu which I reserved for the following Barsac. In Bordeaux, rouges are typically served with pungent, creamy cheeses such as epoisses, reblochon and even chèvre. Personally, I've never gotten into that kind of pairing - much preferring having white Burgundy instead, Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé with chèvre - but I do "as the Romans do" when there.

The subject wine was actually quite nice though young - by far the best 2002 Bordeaux I have had thus far (not that I've had many from 2002). With a deep, somber, serious but comfortably mellow character, it showed good, firm structure, cedary plum, some black cherry, blackcurrant, raspberry and dried herb highlights, slight tobacco and violets that trail with the cedar in the finish. Just a few notches over medium-bodied, it is possessed of proper reserve. Quite nice. I wondered if it would grow up to be like the 1994.

As mentioned earlier, I had the bleu with the sweet wine, continuing with the latter for the dessert course of Savarin Cooked in Orange-Rum Syrup, Fruit Brunoise & Crème Chantilly. The 2004 Château Doisy Daëne I've had several times. As a matter of fact, this is the exact same wine we had with dessert at last year's President's Dinner. My notes then, still applicable now, were as follows:

This is actually a Barsac wine (due to archaic political squabblings, wines from Barsac may be labeled as Sauternes but the reverse is not allowed), generally known to be less unctuous, rich and opulent compared to Sauternes, but lighter-footed and with better acidic balance and lift (an exception that immediately springs to mind is Château Climens, e.g., 1986). I've had quite a few vintages from this maker and enjoyed them well enough, though was never impressed - and I'm sure many will question my judgment on that. I just have found them in the past a bit too simple and lacking in depth.

The 2004, however, seemed to me surprisingly heftier, fatter and more pleasing than older vintages I've tried (note that I haven't tried their 2001 and 2003). The acidity was slightly on the low side, but the wine as a whole was in good enough balance.

With the dessert, as well as the bleu, it made for a fine match indeed.

Johnson & Candy

Oscar Ong takes the floor.

Alfred Wieneke, Romy Sia & Robbie Delgado

I then had a double espresso with the Mignardises while chatting with J-Lab and Othmar Ober (one would think Old Manila would use better plates than the rather shabby-looking one depicted below)...

...followed with some velvety deep, complex and warming Tesseron Lot Nº 76 Cognac.

Luckily, this, as well as older versions, are readily available at Bacchus International.

Cheers!

À Votre Santé!

Until the next!