The Manila Gentlemen's Club 2011 AGM & President's Dinner.

Last night, Wednesday the 18th November 2011, was The Manila Gentlemen's Club Annual General Meeting and President's dinner. Club president Aled Morris organized the food and graciously offered his home as the evening's venue. The evening's menu was prepared and executed by young South African Chef Hylton Le Roux through his new venture, Pi Catering. Hylton's resumé is, indeed, impressive, including stints as chef de partie at no less than Restaurant Gordon Ramsey and Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck. We were only 7 in all, but that was fine for a quorum.

As with any civilized evening, things started off with glasses of bubbly. For this evening, I chose to serve Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur - Hands-down the very best deal in the country for a non-vintage champagne; available at Premium Wine Exchange for only P2300/bottle retail. Fresh, creamy fruit, notable focus, vivacity, fine mousse, mid-palate and balance. Can't go wrong with this, especially at its very reasonable price. The 2 bottles were quickly emptied.

Aled Morris & Robert Burroughes.

John Harvey, Don Gaffney & Richard Everingham.

The Menu

The first course was a superb Tagliatelle w/ Truffle Cream Sauce, Parmesan & Charred Asparagus. No fake synthetic "truffle oil" here; Hylton used an oil with real truffle bits, and the difference was evident in that the pungency and flavors were natural and subtle and not "trying hard" exaggerated. This, as well as the second course of...

...Roast Salmon Persillade atop a Potato & Leek Gallette w/ Broccoli Purée & Mustard Hollandaise were paired with...

2009 Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec - I've had this twice before, the first time was at a Huet tasting at Masseto on 6th January 2011 where it was pretty much unanimously chosen as the favorite of the Huet Secs served that evening. Last I had it was on the 6th May 2011, again at Masseto, during a lunch in honor of Huet proprietor Anthony Hwang. My most recent notes are as follows:

With the Sole, Brown Butter Lemon Sauce & French Beans, we had the 2009 Huet Clos de Bourg Sec. I've had this before at Jojo's Huet Tasting early January of this year during which we had it alongside the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu Sec and the 2006 Huët Vouvray Le Mont Sec. My notes then were as follows (vis-à-vis the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu Sec):

2009 Huët Vouvray Clos de Bourg Sec - There was pretty much a consensus that this was the most favored Sec at this point, with Sevrine, Felicia, Barbara, J-Lab, Richard and myself giving it our nods as such. Notably fleshier, rounder, moderately softer and not as piercing, dry or challenging as the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu. More widely accessible too, I'd wager.

The subject wine was a fine match for the dish. While the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu may have been an acceptable match for the Sole per se, the beurre noisette would have called for something with a little more roundness and heft, which the subject Clos de Bourg aptly supplied. The wine's stony tension and rounded heft played nicely with the nutty browned butter. I had 2 glasses with this course. Lovely.

Last night, it was its usual zingy, racy, vibrantly-fruited self. Dry yet with good fruitiness, remarkably bright, crisp, focused and exhilarating. It's mouth-wateringly captivating acidity gave good (and needed) cut to the pasta's creamy sauce; while the fruitiness served as a refreshing foil to the truffle-earthiness. With the salmon, it being a naturally fatty fish, the wine worked equally as well.

The subject wine's balance and food-friendliness have always made me smile. The others were quite vocal in appreciation as well, punctuated by the 2 bottles quickly running out after the first course amid requests for more. Run, don't walk, as this is readily available at Premium Wine Exchange at a mere P1,400/bottle at full retail.

Coconut & Calamansi (Philippine lime) Sorbet. I usually avoid having sorbets before a flight of reds because of many Manila chefs' recent fascination with aggressively using basil, cassis or calamansi in them - which simply ruin my palate for the reds. This one, however, was gently flavored, with the coconut nicely blending with and easing the calamansi; and, at the same time, refreshed the palate without leaving a strong and disturbingly long after-taste.

With the delectably earthy and indulgent third course of Seared Foie Gras w/ Balsamic-Braised Lentils & Caramelized Cauliflower Purée was paired 2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi Sec. I first had this during dinner with Sandy at Restaurant Gary Danko at the tail-end of a working trip to SF this past July. My notes then were as follows:

We both started with the Lobster Salad with Asian Pear, Mango, Avocado, Cashews and Lime Cilantro Rémoulade. This was very nice, light and refreshingly playful. To pair, I chose the 2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi Sec because I so enjoyed the 2008 Huet Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec during lunch with Domaine Huet proprietor Anthony Hwang this past 16th May 2011. I actually had the 2008 Le Mont Demi Sec earlier this year at the Stockbroker's tasting at Masseto, and figured that the Le Mont, being heftier and buttressed with more toasty leesy notes, would do well with the lobster - and that it did.

For the same reason as above did I choose this wine to pair with Hylton's foie gras dish, and, indeed, it had the right structure, body, comparatively sweeter/richer fruit and acid cut for the dish. Home run here if I do say so myself. Loved it. Available at Premium Wine Exchange for P2000/bottle full retail.

Our fourth and main course was Roasted Duck Breast w/ Confit Pork Belly (topped w/ Home Made Chicharron), Spinach & Pomme Fondant. Fantastic. I must mention that the pomme fondant had a perfectly balanced deep, discreet smokiness and gentle caramelization. Enchanting. With this, we had three Tuscan reds.

2003 Marchesi Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino - This wine spoke of its vintage: comparatively big, mouthfilling, concentrated, lushly full, soft, very ripe (nearing raisined) dark fruit, sweetish, low acid and, I felt, a bit higher than usual in alcohol. A bit of flamboyancy here. With the sweetish pipe tobacco, oak-related vanilla and cocoa notes that infuse the forward, big, warm, soft, very ripe fruit, it is reminiscent of the modern/New World style - which should readily please those partial to the same. Available at Bacchus International.

2004 Marchesi di Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino - With approximately an hour and a quarter's decanting before service, it had a nice masculine bent to it. Structure was firm, maybe just a notch or three over medium-bodied, the fruit neat, self-possessed and proper, bit of dried herbs and violets under there. The mid-palate left a little to be desired, but, in my opinion, this is because the wine is still quite young. That said, this was more my style than the previous wine, and I expect it will gain weight and be more ready in around 3-4 more years. Notable structure and balance. Available at Forth & Tay for P3100+/bottle at full retail.

The 2005 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico I was not able to get to that evening; or if I did, I do not recall now what it was like. All bottles were drained by the time the cigars were brought out. Available at Bacchus International.

Dessert was a neat Panna Cotta w/ Strawberry - please forgive the lousy photo as I was already a bit tipsy by this time and didn't remember to check or take a safety shot. This was paired with...

2001 Tenute Marchese Antinori Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Moderately sweet, raisined sultanas, bit of honey, slight vanilla and an intriguing breath of oxidation. Quite nice, actually, and it was, for me, a hand-in-hand match for the panna cotta.

Hylton joins us for the discussion of the dishes.

Aled was re-elected as club President; John as Cigar Master & I as Wine Master. Richard is now Food Master, giving up the club Secretary position to Robert. Don, with his background in finance is now club Treasurer. We wound up with a bottle of port donated by Robert and some Cuban puros chosen and sourced by John: Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure #2. Excellent draw, burn, smooth creamy smoke and a slightly dryish woody finish. Thereafter, Aled started opening some of his bottles of Marqués de Riscal Rioja Tinto Reserva. Thoroughly enjoyable evening.

Until the next!

The Annual Hagedorn Cup 2011.

It was that time of the year again that Henry Hagedorn hosted the Hagedorn Cup in celebration of his birthday at The Country Club. Henry holds this annually, one of the ways he celebrates another year younger with his golf friends, of which I have the fortune of being counted among. We show up, play, eat, drink and enjoy, all courtesy of Henry. Thus, on Wednesday, the 16th November 2011, tee off was 10am for 7 flights of friends.

The celebrant-host, Henry Hagedorn, fresh from his runner-up finish
at Calatagan the week before.

"El Kimo", Quito Moras, also a runner-up at the recent Calatagan tournament.

Tito Chito Legarda, always a strong contender at Los Golfos tournaments...

...as are, among others, Bobby Paradies...

...and Tony Olbés.

Jos Moraza hits so long, I'm glad I wasn't born a golf ball.

Godo Juliano - I wish my swing were as relaxed and flowing as his.

Miguel "Don't touch the hair!" Moras, with eternal flight-mate...

...the high-finishing Tito Reynoso.

La Salle Sports Hall of Famer Mackie Cui.

Fellow Atenean (we are so few in this group of La Sallistas) Mari Cacho.

Regular Saturday Alabang flight-mate Raffy Villarreal.

Regular Los Golfos flight-mates Jaime Ugarte...

...and Louie Zabaljauregui.

Though I started off well enough for me, I made the mistake of reading and responding to work-related texts on hole #7 - and that killed my game. I simply couldn't recover after. Unperturbed, however, I enjoyed the rest of the game and, of course, Henry's heavily-stocked merienda-cena buffet at the clubhouse.

Henry all freshened up and ready for the large bottles of Johnnie Walker Double Black.

Pinggoy Mañosa, Jos & Quito.

Godo, Mari & Johnny-Mike Llamas.

Difficult decisions for Jaime as the buffet had so much food. I myself attacked the Pancit Palabok and Roast Chicken (the sauce of which was particularly good) and started off with one of many Double Rum Cokes. Since I didn't bring a driver, I laid off the beer and refrained from indulging in the Double Black and large bottles of Stolichnaya Vodka (Mackie took care of the latter).

Louie, Douglas and others took an outer table to enjoy more the late afternoon breeze.

...and the winner of The Hagedorn Cup 2011 is...

...Bobby Paradies with a net 9 under par.

Aside from his trophy, Bob received a flat screen TV from Henry as a prize.

The waitstaff serve a deliciously moist birthday cake.

With Double Black in hand, Henry blows out the candle.
Happy Birthday, Don Henry!!!

Drinking into the night.

Art Zuluaga with Mackie (who looks really buzzed at this point).

Henry just loves teasing Tito Chito (who can certainly give as well as he takes).

Mackie, Tito, Raffy, Tito Chito & Miguel.

Jos, drink and cigar in hand, joins in on the ribbing.

It was such a fun day; many thanks again, Henry, for everything,
...and, once more, happy birthday!

Jerome's Wine Lunch @ the Prince Albert Rotisserie.

Lunch of the 19th October 2011 was at a small private room of the Intercontinental Hotel's Prince Albert Rotisserie for Jerome Philippon's private presentation of some personally select wines from Italy.

Yes, Manila's French Wine Crusader now also carries wine from Italy via his Sommelier Selection. I knew he was about this since we were communicating via SMS and e-mail while he was in Italy during his wine search. Until the subject lunch, however, I had not tried any of them. We were 5 in all including Richard Joye, Vicki Aldaba and her friend Tere.

It just so happened that the Prince Albert had an on-going mushroom festival, so Jerome had the very capable young Chef Antony Page create a "relatively light" pairing lunch menu for us.

Antony Page with Intercontinental's F&B Manager Laurent Casteret.

We started off with some bubbly of course, the Domaine André et Mireille Tissot Indigène Crémant du Jura. I first tried this back in late November 2010. My notes then were as follows:

Hmmm...probably my first bubbly from the Jura region that is not a predominantly poulsard-based Bugey Cerdon. Per Jérôme, this bio-dynamically produced bubbly is a champagnesque blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Bright, vibrant and lively with well-focused, clean lines of soft, creamy apple, pear, white flowers, slight minerals and a whisper of caramel, this also presented an entertaining, underlying white chocolate- milkiness that I associate with pinot noir in young champagnes. Nice, entertaining and dangerously drinkable, this is a good and, at approximately P2500/bottle, more-or-less, full retail*, definitely affordably-priced alternative to champagne - perfect for Christmas get-togethers.

Now, almost a year later, this bubbly is as lively and charming as ever, its soft, pinot noir-milky, creamy fruit delightful to hold mid-mouth making it very easy to enjoy and drink a lot of. I actually had to hold myself back so as not to get quickly tipsy before lunch proper began. Fortunately, I did not have long to wait.

Fricasée of Wild Mushrooms, Cèpe & Thyme Brioche w/ Truffle Herb Salad
If I recall correctly, the deeply flavored glaze was made with porcini.

With this was paired a light, charming, nicely quaffable 2010 Domaine Mittnacht Frères Pinot Noir (from Hunawihr, Alsace; biodynamic since 1999) - light-bodied but not definitively pinot noir flavored with amiable cherry, bit of raspberry and underlying dark plum. Vibrantly fresh, openly honest and bright, this is a very nice casual sipping lunch wine suited for our tropical clime. Jerome and Richard noted it would be very nice at the beach or during a late afternoon sip. I agreed. At only P1,075 at full retail, it's an easy buy.

Next was a Crisp Skin Duck Breast w/ Cherry Purée, Judas Ear Mushroom Mille Feuille & Sautéed Swuiss Chard...

...which we enjoyed with a 2005 Podere Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino Piaggone - Moderately rich with deep, ripely sweetish concentrated cherry, raspberry and strawberry and touches of underlying dark minerals, pipe tobacco and vanilla. Softly fruited, smooth, almost chewy and aspiring to full-bodiedness. Slightly low on acid. Nicely layered. A confident wine with a moderately long finish. Easy to like. Not cheap at P4,070 full retail, but one will get one's money's worth in my opinion.

A fine pairing for the magret de canard.

With the Australian Lamb Rack, Beetroot Risotto, Porcini Ragout, Girolles & Herb Crumbs...

...2005 Castello di Verduno Barolo Vigna Massara - Still very young, swirling encourages its youthful tightness to reveal roses, cedar and pine needle topnotes, clean dark red berries, underlying tar, leather and tobacco leaf. Notable over-all neatness and lean, clean lines. Admirable purity, firm structure and acid balance. Good balance and very good typicity. Very nice, especially with the earthy lamb dish. At P3,915 full retail, I recommend this either to age or enjoy with decanting paired with hearty roast or grilled meat courses.

Richard chats with the chef.

A Selection of French & Italian Cheeses w/ Baguette, Cepe Butter, Membrillo & Apples helped finish my share of the Barolo, and, thereafter, Jerome opened a...

2007 Domaine Bellivière Coteaux du Loir L'Effraie (Sec Tendre) - This is a pretty and racy slightly off-dry wine of pure chenin blanc from the Coteaux du Loir appellation (north of Tours in the Loire). Nicely bright fresh and tense peach, ripe apricot and lemon with suggestions of wild honey and herbs. Perfect with the blue cheese and a bit of the membrillo. An easy buy at P1420 full retail.

Jerome then opened up yet another bottle of the Indigène Crémant du Jura for us all to "wash" our palates. I've learned to love this post meal "washing off" with a good bubbly - something of a dining ritual I learned in Spain. Thanks again, Jerome! Until the next!