IWFS Spanish BYOB Lunch @ La Tienda.

Friday, the 8th October 2010, was an International Wine & Food Society BYOB Spanish Lunch at La Tienda, organized by the Stockbroker (who is a member of the IWFS Board of Directors). Miguel, although in London at the time, helped him organize the menu and pricing with Chef Javi Lecumberri. Due to bad SLEX traffic, I arrived a bit late and most of the guys were already there. I seated myself near 2 generations of wine-loving Fuenteses.

Rene, Sr. & Rene, Jr. with the guys.

The last IWFS function I attended was many months ago (the 1st IWFS Wine Fair, organized by Director Oscar Ong), so it was great to see everyone again. Unfortunately, El Presidente, Bernie Sim, was still in Europe so couldn't join us. In all, however, we were 19 persons at the lunch (Eddie Yap and Othmar Ober arrived a little later).

Dong, Markus & Manfred.

Fil & Oscar.

Noel L., Bill, Lawrie & Dieter.

Rene, Jr., J-Lab & Gino

Chinkee & Matt.

The Menu:

Appetizers

Salmorejo (the Cordóban version of gazpacho, made with tomato and bread, adorned with a single, fresh prawn lightly cooked in vinegar)

Escalivadas (from the Catalan verb "escalivar" which means "to cook in ashes", this is made of grilled peppers, anchovies and cheese on bread)

Brandada de Bacalao (Cream or purée of bacalao on bread, topped with shrimp)

Boquerónes con Crema de Centollo (Fresh anchovy with cream of spider crab on bread - Javi must have brought the crema de centollo back from his recent trip home to Spain since this ingredient is not locally available)

Mains

Paella de Verduras (Vegetable paella made of basmati rice)

Besugo al Horno (Fresh bisugo, a.k.a., sea bream, baked in olive oil and lots of garlic)

Chuleton con Pimientos del Piquillo (Steak, fries and red peppers)

Dessert

Leche Frita con Helado de Queso y Confitura de Tomate ("Fried Milk" with cheese ice cream and tomato confiture).

Several bubblies were popped for welcome drinks: among others, some Piper Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage Champagne (courtesy of Lawrie I believe), a Cava Rosado from J-Lab (I don't recall what it was) and a couple bottles of Freixenet Reserva Real Cava (one each from Gino and I). I continued with the Reserva Real with the first salvo of pintxos.

Freixenet Reserva Real Cava Brut - This bottling of higher-end cava was created to commemorate the visit of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia to the Freixenet winery in 1987. A blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada, this fine cava is typically blended with a small percentage of reserve wines and aged at least 30 months before release. Quite champagne-esque in its fresh apple with slight white grapefruit, lime/citrus and preserved fruit base flavors, it is complexed with notes of pastry, bit of brioche, white flowers, discreet fine minerality and a whisper of vanilla. Barely medium-bodied with a nice, slightly biscuity-creamy from the middle, its over-all depth and freshness definitely make it one of the more serious cavas I've had. Very nice indeed.

Oscar, with the Stockbroker, Chinkee & Matt, check out some bottles at our end of the table.

2009 Txomin Etxaniz Txakoli - My bottle, from D.O. Getariako Txakolina. Txomin Etxaniz is the biggest and most famous producer of the area. It is also considered the best by no less than Jancis Robinson, MW. This is a typical Getarian txakoli made up of the native hondarrabi zuri (90%) and hondarrabi beltza (10%) grapes, it is bone-dry, light, fresh and minerally with tartish green apple and lime/citrus flavors, faint saline notes, lots of acidity with slight fizziness and an appetite-enhancing bitterness. Regionally and traditionally paired with the fresh seafood that Getaria is famous for, it would have been a perfect match for the Besugo al Horno, but I finished my glass with the pintxos and the bottle was drained by the time the fish course was served.

Consequently, I had more of the Freixenet Reserva Real with my besugo and the Paella de Verduras.

There was a ton of bottles brought by all the members, it was impossible for me to try them all. Everyone was eagerly sharing their bottles though - which is one of the reasons I especially enjoy IWFS BYOB lunches (rare though they may be) as the usual conviviality is stepped up an extra few notches.

With the Chuleton, I started working on the various reds in earnest.

I started off with some 1994 Bodegas R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva (Rene, Jr. & I brought a bottle each, I decanted mine). For full disclosure, I, together with Aaron Palileo of ADP Industries, import the wines of R. López de Heredia. We only bring in particular bottlings/vintages that we personally love and drink ourselves. The last one of these I opened was during a dinner at Ciçou less than a month ago, so my notes then are as follows:

...[A]fter being decanted for aeration for around 45 minutes or so, the bouquet was as entrancing and complex as ever with sweetish balsamico, cedar, violets, dark cherry, raspberry, slight strawberry, with mere hints of licorice and leather. A few notches over medium-bodied, very neat, refined, elegant and remarkably balanced. Notably more open than the last time I had this, it is, indeed, a pleasure to drink now, especially with good lamb rack, though this has many, many more years ahead of it. Loved it. I am very proud of this wine.

1998 Bodegas Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva - My bottle as well. Denser, heftier (a little past halfway between medium to full, I'd say), more concentrated, extracted and riper. Tannins are notably bigger but smooth; the mouthfeel is a bit chunky after the previous wine. There are notes of fig and a bit of iron in the fleshy dark red fruit, slight leather, vanilla and licorice. Nice, very approachable and open. Quite enjoyable.

1998 Cims de Porrera Classic - Oscar's bottle. Big, dense, ultra ripe and quite forward - Priorat's hot weather is certainly apparent in this. Huge, curvy, chunky, highly concentrated and extracted (but age-mellowed) grapey black fruit, kirsch, sanguine topnote, chocolate, bit of sweet tobacco, vanilla and cinnamon. Definitely a big wine - its heft and girth were emphasized following the '94 Viña Tondonia Gan Reserva.

1996 Pesquera Gran Reserva - Also from Oscar, and he made sure I got to try some of it. Immediately notable depth and discreet, smoldering power that builds as it passes across the palate. Notable balance, confidence and harmony. Impressive.

Lawrie, Dieter & Brendan.

2006 Bodegas Alión - Gino's bottle (which I forgot to photograph), a more modern line of the legendary Vega Sicilia of Ribera del Duero. I recall this was decanted for aeration for 2-3+ hours before I tried it. Though still very young and primary, one can note the superior balance and remarkable structure in this wine. Nicely ripe, firm, precisely concentrated dark fruit (black cherry, bit of raspberry, underlying blackberry, some sweetish tobacco, dark chocolate and oak spice. Tannins are very apparent, but fine enough. It shows more restraint and better structure than, say, the 2003 - as well as comparatively more refinement than the 2001.

Javi eventually came out, was given a well-deserved round of applause...

...answered Eddie Yap's and other members' questions on the dishes (as Sunny kids around with Rene, Sr.)...

...and received a congratulatory toast from the most appreciative crowd.

The day's guests were then introduced and asked to say a few words about themselves. I don't recall what Gino said, but it obviously had the Stockbroker and Chinkee in stitches.

Chinkee & Matt also said a few words though they already knew several of the members.

NOE Pedro Ximenez Muy Viejo Jerez (30 Años) - J-Lab's bottle which many enjoyed with and after dessert. Same perceptions as when we last had it during one of our lunches in late June 2010: "Very approachable, smooth, comfortingly warm molasses, raisins, hints of herbs, some underlying chocolate, vanilla, slight licorice candy. Not as thick, tongue coating and intensely dense as many PXs I've had - which is not a bad thing. Nice one."

Sunny and Dong were among the first few to take their respective leaves. Dong (from a long line of Ateneans) couldn't help but jokingly rib Rene, Sr. (a loyal La Sallista) about Ateneo's recent basketball "three-peat"...

...and skilfully dodged Rene, Sr.'s predictably playful response.

We lingered a few more hours, enjoying each other's company over a lot of laughter and the rest of the bottles, including J-Lab's caramel-laced Cardenal Mendoza Brandy de Jerez Solera Gran Reserva (by Sánchez Romate Hermanos). Rancio, cocoa, aged Spanish cedar, pine, dried fruit and sultanas - these aromas held true in the mouth in a pure, warm, smooth, comforting stream - the cocoa, rancio and aged wood holding sway over the fruit, nutty nuances emerging just past mid-palate. Lovely.

Several writers have observed wine to be a unifying force that brings together people from all walks of life, sweeping aside differences in age, regions and nationality. In the IWFS, anyway, I can confidently say that this is, in fact, the case.

Congratulations again to Javi for the excellent meal (as always), and, especially to the Stockbroker who conceived of and organized this most successful and enjoyable event.

Relaxing Weekend Wines with Family.

Saturday Dinner, 25th September 2010:

Dinner at my father's place for my brother's mom-in-law who was visiting from Tokyo to represent the Kozan School in the recently concluded Ikebana International 11th Asian Regional Conference at Shangri-La Makati. Dinner was Spanish fare, the wines also Spanish:

With appetizers of assorted cheeses, jamón Serrano, etc.

2004 Freixenet Cuvée D.S. Gran Reserva Cava - Bright, crisply dry, slightly floral white grapefruit, green apple, hints of sourdough and chalky minerality. One of the more complex cavas I regularly drink. I just wished my dad also served some chistorras to go with this. Available at Aaron's ADP Industries at P1800/bottle full retail.

With Chili-Garlic Prawns and Bacalao à la Vizcaina.

2009 Txomin Etxaniz Txakoli - Typical Getarian txakoli: bone-dry, light, fresh and minerally with tartish green apple and lime/citrus flavors, faint saline notes, healthy acidity and a slight appetite-enhancing bitterness. Excellent with the Bacalao and a fair match with the Chili-Garlic Prawns. Now available at Terry Selection for a mere P870/bottle at full retail.

With Lengua con Setas and Solomillo de Vaca.

1999 Bodegas Olarra Cerro Añon Rioja Gran Reserva - One of the last few bottles of this in my dad's cav. Perfumed nose of violets, cherry, kirsch, deep/ripe strawberries, vanilla bean and slight red spice. Slightly over medium-bodied, very smooth, bit of creaminess mid-palate, the scents mirrored on the palate. Very, very nice. Notable poise and harmony. The vanilla notes were a little too overt because I didn't decant it for aeration unlike other times I open these bottles.

My father and I purchased the last couple of cases of this from Terry Selection many months ago. There is no more of this vintage - but the one being sold now, the 2001, is an excellent Riojan vintage.

Sunday Lunch w/ Catha & the kids, 26th September 2010, @ Caffé Caruso:

With our usual Antipasti Caldi Platter, a Pizza Napolitana, Insalata di Rucola, assorted pastas (Spaghetti with Italian Sausage for me), Veal Scallopini and Veal Como.

2009 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis - Not locally available, Miguel got me some bottles of this last time he was in Italy. I love this stuff with antipasti and certain pastas ever since I tried the 2005 version from the Stockbroker over lunch at Pepato back in late January 2009. "Arneis" is the grape (a.k.a., nebbiolo blanco) and "Roero" is the hilly area in Piedmont (northwest of Alba) wherefrom hails this wine.

Slight hints of cool limestone and seashell infuse bright, vibrant, mild grapefruit, bit of pear, apple, citrus with an appetizing bitter-almond nuance. Nicely dry and very food friendly even with the Veal Como. Love it. The Stockbroker's PWX distributes Giacosa's wines (an excellent producer, by the way), but just the reds so far. I hope he brings some of their Roero arneis in as well in the future.

The Stockbroker also happened to be there for lunch with his family and sent me a glass of what I recall he said was a Napa cabernet sauvignon with a bit of sangiovese and syrah in it. I do not recall the vintage, but it was called Bacio Divino - Very lush, fleshy, I could even say opulent, full-bodied, lowish in acid, crème de cassis (emphasis on the crème), soft, dark, sweetishly-ripe red berries, bit of underlying damp earth and mocha, evident creamy vanilla (from new French oak barrels almost surely). Lavish, forward and eager to please, I expect this would be easily accessible to many. I don't know, though, if PWX carries this or it is from the Stockbroker's own collection.

Monday Night Wines w/ the Usual Suspects & Víctor Quinson @ Je Suis Gourmand.

Last night, the 20th September 2010, was back at Je Suis Gourmand with the Usual Suspects and special guest, Víctor Quinson. I've mentioned in my previous post that Víctor is the ambassador of Bodegas R. López de Heredia in Asia. Well, in addition to representing Rioja's bastion of tradition, he represents other highly-acclaimed Riojan producers, one of which is Bodegas Remírez de Ganuza. We were 9 in all: the Stockbroker (freshly back from running the Médoc Marathon), Víctor, Aaron, Arnie, Greg, J-Lab, Miguel, Rene and myself. Keiichi was supposed to join us, but, unfortunately, got stuck in Tokyo with office matters.

As with any civilized gathering, the evening started off with some bubblies...

Freixenet Reserva Real Cava Brut - Aaron's bottle. This line was created to commemorate the visit of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia to the Freixenet winery in 1987. A blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada, this fine cava is typically blended with a small percentage of reserve wines and aged at least 30 months before release. Quite champagne-esque in its fresh apple with slight white grapefruit, citrus and preserved fruit base flavors, it is complexed with notes of pastry, bit of brioche, white flowers, discreet fine minerality and a whisper of vanilla. Barely medium-bodied with a nice, slightly biscuity-creamy from the middle, its over-all depth and freshness definitely make it one of the more serious cavas I've had. Very nice indeed. Available at Aaron's ADP Industries.

1996 Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésimé - J-Lab's bottle, from an excellent champagne vintage. I immediately noted its heft, pronounced middle, depth of fruit and nice complexity. The fruit (apple, bit of apricot and lemon custard) had a general ripe, confited and slightly honeyed character to it. Alluring white flower, biscuit, brioche, candied ginger notes and a whisper of underlying coffee added to the complexity. Definitive strike, properly reserved crescendo and a medium-long, quietly confident finish. A joy to drink alone; it also went well with Marc's signature Terrine of Foie Gras and the Pork Rillettes.

There were so many bottles open, I didn't get to take photos of them all. Some of those were:

The Stockbroker's Mystery Wine - Served totally blind, we were to guess what it was as closely as possible. J-Lab to my right almost immediately said it was a Napa from the early '90s. The wine's initial pronounced minty topnote and very ripe, dark fruit and crème de cassis made me immediately agree that it wasn't Bordeaux. The mouth confirmed my initial guess because the fruit was way too soft, virtually no acidity and structure to speak of - the wine seemed to just fall off my tongue. However, the minty notes disappeared shortly, leaving, to me, an aged St-Estèphe bouquet with earthy-sweetish truffles, crème de cassis, bit of kirsch, leather and vanilla bean. The ripeness of the fruit made me think it was from 1990.

J-Lab then astutely noted to me that a St-Estèphe would have much firmer structure and I definitely agreed. However, from the nose and seeming weakness of the palate, I figured it couldn't be from Napa - and guessed that it was probably a less-than-pristine 1990 from St-Estèphe. It turned out to be a 1991 Dominus. Again, Dominus had me stumped. I've never been able to identify Dominus as a Napa when served blind. Perhaps I never will. I noted though that I've had this same wine from different bottles twice or thrice before - and that this subject bottle was nowhere near as good as the previous ones. Still, it was very generous, as usual, of the Stockbroker to share a wine such as this, and, of course, it was much appreciated.

2007 La Rosée de Pavie - Arnie's bottle. I asked if I could open it as I intended to order Marc's Trio of Lamb (Rack, Merguez and Loin with Couscous). Unfortunately, it is no longer on the menu, so I had this rosé with some Escargot à la Bourguignonne. This is probably the heaviest, most concentrated rosé I have ever had from anywhere. Red cherry, plum, bit of raspberry with a faint underlying blackcurrant nuance. I would have liked more freshness and brightness in the fruit. Still, I was thankful to have a rosé with this old JSG favorite appetizer.

2002 Château Lynch Bages - Greg's bottle; he doesn't really like drinking anything but Bordeaux, though he claims otherwise. Bordeaux's 2002 vintage is not really notable, generally viewed as one more for casual and early drinking. I've had a few, but never thought much of them. J-Lab liked this well enough for what it was, but I really couldn't get interested in it. Sure, the Pauillac traits of gravel, pencil lead shavings, bit of leather (as well as cedar and hints of charcoal) laced the dark fruit, but its middle was virtually non-existent - no crescendo at all. The finish was barely moderate, the structure was fair. Pleasant enough, but not interesting to me.

From the outset, I had my eye on one red in particular.

1998 C.V.N.E. Imperial Gran Reserva - Miguel's bottle. Easily my favorite red of the night. This, though not old by Imperial Gran Reserva standards, seems to be transitioning to the Burgundy side (probably the vintage as I perceived the same in a 1998 Bodegas Riojana Monte Real Gran Reserva I had in early April this year). It possesses very good structure and acid balance in its gently balsamico-touched, deep, dark black cherry, ripe raspberry, hint of kirsch, underlying blackcurrant and leather, cedar, licorice, mere hints of cinnamon and vanilla. Good, smooth, moderately meaty texture. Notable complexity, harmony and balance in this. Lovely wine and a natural match with my Grilled Lamb Chops with Frites.

I also tried some of Arnie's 2001 Château Grand-Pontet - like the '02 Lynch Bages, this seemed to have a weak middle, virtually no crescendo to speak of, but the '02 Lynch Bages' structure was better. Dark plum, black cherry, underlying cassis, bit of loam, leather and cedar.

Víctor noses the next Riojan tinto.

2001 Bodegas Remírez de Ganuza Gran Reserva - Víctor's bottle. This was the last red I had that night, with some Tomme de Savoie and walnuts from the Cheese Platter. It had been in a decanter for around 2 hours by then if I recall correctly. Made of tempranillo and graciano from 60 year-old vines, picked after extended hang time. This wine was aged, as I understand, for 27 months in all new French barriques. I've only ever had one other wine from this producer: Doc's 2001 Remírez de Ganuza Reserva during Valentine's dinner 2009 at his place which I liked quite a bit. my notes of the 2001 Reserva were as follows:

2001 Remírez de Ganuza Rioja - The Doc had texted me that he was serving this late that afternoon, saying that it was a powerful wine. I knew nothing of the wine or winery and told him I'd never even heard of them. He told me to read up on it in Jay McInerney's "A Hedonist in the Cellar", but I neglected to. I actually expected a huge, super-ripe and sweetly over-extracted Parker gobful fruit bomb and was quite surprised at what it turned out to be.

Calm, self-assured, vaguely smoky, cedary dark cherry, very ripe strawberry over a thin stream of discreetly licorice-tobacco-and-leather-laced black fruit and dark plum. The red fruit/berry leads the strike, allows for a savory dark fruit dominated crescendo, and re-takes its position past mid-mouth and sees fit to ride the surface in the finish.

There is a woodiness, yes, but not in the ubiquitous, heavy creamy toffee - cinammon - toasty knockout combination I expected from old-style Riojas. Rather, it appeared more cedary, with the oak notes calm, relatively quiet and well integrated - just giving a nod of recognition in passing. Admirable balance and depth of fruit without shouting it out - a quiet intensity. It was more my type than I thought it would be. I'd guess this was made along the lines of the so-called "modern" (i.e., Bordeaux influenced wine-making style) that Marqués de Riscal began in Rioja in the late 1800s.

The subject gran reserva version was evidently denser, heavier, more viscous and more powerful than the immediately above-described reserva from the same vintage. The oak notes were more pronounced as well. Miguel, Greg and J-Lab noted that it struck them as quite modern, and I agreed. I think I liked it more than some of the others, but, honestly, I prefer the reserva version of this wine.

Víctor elaborates on the wine's elevage as the Stockbroker listens intently...

...as does the rest of the table. With dessert...

2003 Joh Jos. Christoffel Erben Erdenerer Treppchen Riesling Auslese - My bottle, a gift from fellow Wineberserker Clem Nieto. Moderate goutte de pétrole lines honey, peach, tangerine, ripe lemon, slight candied ginger, traces of white minerals and honeysuckle. Light, bright, clean enough with good focus. I expected more heft and concentration from an auslese, but J-Lab (the group's resident German wine expert) explained that it was typical enough a Mosel riesling auslese. Reminded me a bit of the 2006/2007 Sonnenuhr spätleses of Dr. Loosen, though not quite as pure or bright. I had this with my dessert of Tarte Tatin. A double espresso (decaf - I know, but with my sleep issues and all....) capped the evening for me.

The Barcelona boys pack up before calling it a night.

We said our goodbyes outside, promising to see each other again soon, whether in Manila, Spain or at the next Vinexpo in Bordeaux. Greg took a quick snapshot of Aaron, Víctor and myself with Aaron's camera - "Team López de Heredia Philippines" quipped Aaron. Great dinner. Thanks to everyone for sharing their wines and company. ¡Hasta la proxima!

Dinner @ Ciçou, 18th September 2010: Champagne, Pomerol, Rioja.

Last night's dinner at Ciçou was a two-fold event: a weekend celebration of our 2nd son's birthday, and, finally, with Aaron & Jo, meeting Víctor Quinson, Bodegas R. López de Heredia's ambassador for Asia. We had a dinner for immediate family at home for the birthday boy earlier in the week; and Aaron and I had been corresponding regularly via e-mail with Víctor from Spain (he is based in Barcelona and, incidentally, has family roots in Alsace - both places which I love).

Amuse bouche

Still on antibiotics due to a bad case of tonsillitis which brought with it a high fever, I actually was advised not to have any alcohol. For this dinner, however, I allowed myself a few glasses.

1996 Henri Abelé Champagne - Aaron's bottle, a champagne from Reims from an excellent champagne vintage. I've had this same bubbly from him on the 19th June 2010 at his birthday lunch for the Usual Suspects. My notes then were as follows:

1996 Henri Abelé Champagne - Aaron's bottle. Rounded, ripe, slightly creamy flavors of pear, yellow apricot, Japanese plum, bit of lemon, brioche with slight cinnamon and vanilla notes. Vibrant, fresh, quite pleasant and nice with the pork rillette and cheese portions of the salad.

This bottle was consistent with the above notes, but, with added time in glass, opened up more, yielding added coffee and slight oxidation nuances, thereby showing more depth and complexity. Aaron said he and Jo didn't get these traits, but I note that I, amongst us, spent the longest time with the champagne. I liked this very much: light on the palate, good freshness, depth and complexity.

Jo, Aaron & Víctor

Being quite busy chatting and seated at a separate, albeit nearby, table from Catha and the boys (Aaron, Víctor and I had a bit of business to discuss), I wasn't able to photograph their appetizers of Cyrille's Home-Made Pork Rillettes; Marbled Terrine of Foie Gras & Unagi with Teriyaki Sauce, Lemon Confit and Red Cabbage Salad, and, their first course of Fresh Maine Lobster à la Nage with Cheese Ravioli & Parsley Sauce.

Aaron had graciously sent glasses of champagne to Catha and the 2 older boys.

For my main course, to pair with the wines, I again had the Australian Lamb Rack Coated with Fresh Herbs and Citrus, Served with Lamb Stew Raviolis Gratinated with Parmesan with Eggplant Caviar.

1990 Château La Fleur de Gay - Aaron's bottle. I've also had this from him before at the Usual Suspects' Christmas lunch 2009, my notes from the time being:

1990 Château La Fleur de Gay - Aaron's bottle, a generous treat for us all. Notably ripe, velveteen dark plum, black cherry, hint of kirsch, raspberry, mocha, smokey camphor, cedar, subtle dark minerals, underlying leather, violets. Nice concentration and extraction, but not over-done. The fruit is deeply-veined, indicating older vines. Admirable harmony, a bit low in acid but that, I find, is a vintage trait. Over-all balance superior. I enjoyed this wine a lot. Thanks, Aaron.

My impression from last night's bottle mirror the above from almost exactly 9 months ago, save for the added, entertaining, underlying dark chocolate and some creamy vanilla notes. It never fails to amaze me how many flavors can result from a single grape (100% merlot). Suavely masculine Pomerol power in this. Very nice.

For mains, Renzo had Cyrille's special Couscous Royale, Mauro the Boeuf Onglet (which Jo also had), Joaqi some Oeuf Cocotte and, Catha, the Boudin Noir.

In honor of the night's birthday celebrant, I opened a bottle from his birthyear:

1994 Bodegas R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva - I've mentioned before that R. López de Heredia releases its gran reservas only when they deem them ready to drink. This was released only in the first quarter of 2010 - and is yet only available at the wine shops of El Corte Inglés in Spain. It was through Víctor's intercession with the producer that Aaron and I were able to acquire limited stocks of these for ourselves and to make available to fellow aficionados of fine Riojan tintos.

I had tried this twice before - bottles I purchased in Barcelona this past April at the Corte Inglés near Miguel's house - the last bottle I opened was during a dinner at Boozze & Margarita's place on the 31st May 2010.

Last night, after being decanted for aeration for around 45 minutes or so, the bouquet was as entrancing and complex as ever with sweetish balsamico, cedar, violets, dark cherry, raspberry, slight strawberry, with mere hints of licorice and leather. A few notches over medium-bodied, very neat, refined, elegant and remarkably balanced. Notably more open than the last time I had this, it is, indeed, a pleasure to drink now, especially with good lamb rack, though this has many, many more years ahead of it. Loved it. I am very proud of this wine.

My family being quite full already, they just ordered the Kouing Aman Cake and a Maracaibo Dark Chocolate Ganache with a Macaron-Ice Cream "Sandwich" (the latter my youngest was too full to eat so Jo kindly helped him out with it). Of course, Catha and the kids had to have their petits fours of Cyrille's Cannelés and Macarons as well. Cyrille, however, wasn't through feeding the boys yet...

...as he sent the celebrant a surprise birthday dessert.

A double espresso (decaf for me) and several stories later, we all got up to leave. Víctor had, after all, just flown in to Manila that day from late night meetings in South Korea and, surely, needed a good night's sleep. From the photo on the right, it looks like he wasn't the only one.

Many thanks again to Cyrille for yet another excellent meal. I hope to try his Couscous Royale very soon. Until the next!