International Wine & Food Society Philippines President's Dinner 2009.

Last night, 15 October 2009, I attended the International Wine & Food Society Philippines Branch (the "Society") President's Dinner, a black-tie event that the Society holds in the 4th quarter of each year. The venue this year was Old Manila at the Peninsula Hotel Manila, just under 50 persons attended.

L-R: Robert Burroughes, Sunny Garcia, David Ong & Kuni Munetomo

Cocktails were served at a cordoned-off area of the Peninsula's grand lobby, featuring canapés of chilled Fin de Clair Oysters au Naturel, Smoked Salmon Rosette with Crème Fraîche, Gougères (choux pastry puffs flavoured with gruyere) and Lobster Thermidore Vol-au-Vent. These were all washed down with a seemingly endless stream of crisp and lively Champagne Jacquesson Cuvée 732 NV; the bright lemon and citrus dominant flavours of which, combined with an entertaining slight breadiness past mid-mouth, paired naturally with the fresh oysters and provided a refreshing cut to the richer smoked salmon rosette, gougères and lobster thermidore vol-au-vent.

L-R: Freddy Pio de Roda, Othmar Ober, Johnson and Candy Uy & Eddie Yap.

L-R: Oscar Ong, Jojo Madrid, Jay Labrador, Christine and Keiichi Miki

By around 8pm, we were ushered into Old Manila, took our assigned seats and Director Bill Stone introduced our venerable 6-term President and Wine Master, Bernie Sim, who welcomed everyone and explained that the point of the evening's pairings were neither competitive nor evaluative, but, rather, for contemplative enjoyment. This suited me fine. As I do tend to over-think all wines I drink, Bernie's gentle reminder that the night was for sheer enjoyment was most well placed and duly noted.

In line with Society protocol, the guests were introduced by their sponsoring members, Director Jojo Madrid presenting good friend and soon to be member Keiichi Miki, as well as his better half, Christine...

...while Bill Stone introduced Bob Houldsworth and Brian Connelly to the membership and asked them to say a few words about themselves.

Thereafter, dinner proper was served.

The first course was Crab and Avocado Tian, Organic Leaves and Saffron Crème. The crab used was that of Pacific coast Dungeness crab, known for its succulently-sweetish pinkish flesh; the saffron, cream and white wine reduction painted on the plate; the organic salad greens simply dressed with olive oil; and, everything garnished with a bit of boiled egg, capers and parsley salsa. With this opening dish was paired...

2005 Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges - From walled vineyards owned by Jadot in Pouilly-Fuissé, within the Côte Mâconnais of southern Burgundy, very near Beaujolais. If I am not mistaken, this is the maiden vintage of this bottling of Jadot. Typical of Pouilly-Fuissé (and Burgundy whites in general), the wine is 100% chardonnay; highly regarded vintage 2005, as most know, was a roasted-ripe vintage, touted by some professional reviewers as one of the vintages of the century for certain areas of France.

True to the vintage, this wine is generous and, at this point, already notably lush and open; showing off, very ripe, rounded, broad, softly baked apple and pear, leesy, oaky vanilla notes with a finely interwoven, discreet minerality. Quite lavish and forward, but, somehow, comes off in balance; its lowish acid allowing the ripe fruit center stage.

This was indulgent pairing, a rich shock-and-awe opener of a white in line with the evening's celebration of yet another year of the Society's fine wining and dining. This was purchased from Alex Lichaytoo's Bacchus International, but I am not sure if it is still in stock.

~ oOo ~

The second course was Poached Lapu-Lapu Filet with Asparagus, Slow Oven-Roasted Vine Tomato and Vanilla Beurre Blanc. The fish was very fresh and delicately poached in a stock made from its own trimmings, while the asparagus, likewise poached, was tied with a length of chive making for a natural, simple, honest and enjoyable dish. The bit of tomato added a nice acidic lift to the enriching heft of the vanilla beurre blanc. With this dish we enjoyed...

2005 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Clos du Four Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine - Also chardonnay, from the best section of the domaine-owned vineyards in the town of Milly-Lamartine in Mâcon. Bernie surely served this wine to show a contrast in styles from 2 highly-regarded Mâcon producers in the same vintage. Unlike the openly lush, fruit-forward and eager-to-please '05 Clos des Prouges, the '05 Clos du Four was more firmly structured, leaner, edgier, nervy, minerally, purer and more focused in (likewise well-ripened) fruit, with more pronounced drive and acidic lift. It also possessed leesy vanilla/oak notes, but comparatively subtler and submerged.

Because of its leaner body, sharper/edgier focus and more pronounced acid lift, it made for a precise pairing with the fish, where, I'd imagine the Clos des Prouges would have over-powered it. Actually, I could just as easily imagine that the Clos du Four, because of its cut and good structure, would have also stood well with the previous dish of dungeness crab and saffron infused cream.

The presentation of the contrast in styles was both masterfully executed and deftly paired. Clearly, this shows why Bernie has been elected the Society's Wine Master for many successive terms.

~ oOo ~

After a Raspberry Sorbet, the soup course followed, a Duck Broth Scented with Jasmine Tea with Oxtail Raviolini. This was a clear duck consommé, lightly infused with jasmine tea leaves (3-4 minutes only, I understand), with twin, small raviolis stuffed with shredded, braised oxtail, small bits pumpkin and turnips thrown in and garnished with chive. With the soup was served...

2005 Louis Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules - From Jadot's monopole (i.e., solely owned, purchased in 1826) enclosed vineyard within premier cru Vignes Franches climat (approximately 2.2 hectares situated in the central west portion of Beaune's vineyards). I am quite familiar with and fond of this particular wine of Jadot, the antipodal vintages 1990 and 1999 especially - the mentioned vintages having nice masculine depth and seriousness without being at all cumbersome.

The 2005, while very young and, understandably primary and a bit tight, is already charming enough: raspberries and cherries, hints of underlying, earthy darker fruit and spicy wood on a shades-over-medium body with a silken texture. There seemed to be a hint of tea in this, but that could easily have been the consommé. I fully expect it will gain material heft, plumpness and depth after 4-6 more years in bottle, but I'm not sure it will grow up to be like the '90 or '99. Of course, I could be mistaken.

I understand that there was also some 2006 available that evening, but I somehow didn't get to try any.

The meat course then made its way to the table, Pepper Roasted Rack of Lamb with Pommes à la Dauphinoise, Ratatouille & Garlic Jus, and, with it, the most anticipated wine of the evening:

1999 Château Palmer - I expect everyone is familiar with this over-performing 3rd growth from Margaux (well, it is certainly priced above its classification anyway). 1999 is, in my experience an under-appreciated Médoc vintage. Certainly the '99 Latour shows prodigious power, depth, weight and breadth, Margaux its trademark elegance, Lafite Rothschild its ethereal complexity, etc.

Naturally, one has to be selective as even the '99 Lynch Bages and Pichon Lalande have left me somewhat longing for more respective hallmark traits; and the '99s seem to be drinking sooner at all levels. Still and all, there are a few exceptions, and, in any event, '99s are very reasonably priced - a vintage of good and affordable drinking.

That said, the '99 Palmer is not what I would call a wine priced for casual drinking at US$150 and up at retail (no thanks to high scores bestowed by certain professional reviewers). It is undeniably a good wine though. This was the third or fourth time I've had this, and, excepting the first bottle which I sadly mishandled on the way to a blind competition, they have shown very well - less than stellar vintage or otherwise.

Deep, serious and broad in its well structured gravel, darkly spiced black currants and cassis, cedar, violets; I swear if tasted blind I wouldn't guess this to be from 1999. With added aeration in glass, black cherry and a bit of plumminess emerge. Admirable balance and structure, this will get even better with more age. Much as we enjoyed it, Jojo Madrid and I think that it still has a lot of room for evolution. Great to be able to have this again. Another tip of the hat need be made to Bernie for acquiring these for the Society' cellar at a virtual song en primeur.

As regards the lamb, it was very tender and juicy and I truly enjoyed it. My only comment is that there was a bit more cumin thrown in the dish that interfered with my smelling the wine, but that's picking nits. I do recall thinking that a mature Cos d'Estournel (say '86 or '90) would likewise have matched the "exotic spice" spin on the lamb nicely.

L-R: Othmar Ober, Jay Labrador, Sunny and Boots Garcia & Kuni Munetomo

L-R: Ernie Fajardo, Ramon Diokno, Markus Ruckstuhl and Bernd Schulze Koehling

The cheese course followed featuring Bill Stone's choices of Pont-l'Évêque, Comté and Stilton, garnished with parsley coulis, shaved beetroot, balsamic reduction and a toasted bread stick. The Society is assured of good cheese courses as Bill also happens to be president of the Cheese Club. With the cheeses, we, naturally, had...

1995 Dow's Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port - from the producer's prized, low-yielding, elevated 49-hectare single vineyard named Quinta do Bomfim planted to touriga franca, touriga naçional, roriz and barroca. Scents and flavors of rich, dried dark fruit, fig with mere suggestions of molasses (in the nose) and chocolate. Concentrated and broad with medium length, it is discreetly off-dry, a natural and traditional pairing with Stilton.

The grapes lent a rejuvenating burst to the palate in between sips and bites of the cheeses. Robert, who has far more experience and knowledge with vintage port than I, said he liked it a lot.

L-R: Chinggay Rode, myself and Robert Burroughes

In the interim, Bernie congratulated Bill Stone and Markus Ruckstuhl for helping organize the evening. Credit was also given to Oscar Ong for creating the Society website - a fine one I might add, the envy of other IWFS branches to be sure. Oscar, after humbly acknowledging the much deserved round of applause, took the mike briefly and encouraged everyone to support the coming Asia Pacific Zone events, especially the one coming up in Cebu.

David Lim and Oscar Ong

Thereafter, dessert was served: Poached Pear and Rhubarb á la Tarte Tatin with Yoghurt Sorbet. Tarte Tatin, as most everyone knows, is actually an apple tarte baked upside down for intense caramelization, named after two French sisters of Lamotte-Beuvron in the central Loire valley (east of Blois), les demoiselles Caroline et Stephanie Tatin, who are credited by some to have created the original apple-based dessert. This twist on tarte Tatin was paired with...

2004 Château Doisy Daëne - This is actually a Barsac wine (due to archaic political squabblings, wines from Barsac may be labeled as Sauternes but the reverse is not allowed), generally known to be less unctuous, rich and opulent compared to Sauternes, but lighter-footed and with better acidic balance and lift (an exception that immediately springs to mind is Château Climens, e.g., 1986). I've had quite a few vintages from this maker and enjoyed them well enough, though was never impressed - and I'm sure many will question my judgment on that. I just have found them in the past a bit too simple and lacking in depth.

The 2004, however, seemed to me surprisingly heftier, fatter and more pleasing than older vintages I've tried (note that I haven't tried their 2001 and 2003). The acidity was slightly on the low side, but the wine as a whole was in good enough balance.

L-R: Manfred and Chinggay Rode with Lawrie Martin

Bill then, keeping with Society tradition, called the kitchen and waitstaff out to receive our thanks and applause.

Pours of smooth and comfortably warming Tesseron Cognac, a double espresso and another hour's chatting with friends brought the evening to a close for me. It was most enjoyable. As I always say, fine wine and food really don't mean much without like-minded friends to enjoy them with. I think that pretty much sums up why I joined and remain in the IWFS.

L-R, Standing: Candy & Johnson Uy, Lawrie Martin, Dong Puno, Othmar Ober, Bernie Sim, Oscar Ong and Ernie Fajardo. Seated is founding member and chairman Fil Juntereal.

Many thanks and congratulations again, Bernie, Bill and Markus for a wonderful evening. As always, until the next.

Thursday Spanish Lunch at La Tienda.

Lunch today was at La Tienda, organized by Miguel - one more wine-filled meal before he heads to Spain anew...for even more wine-filled meals, I expect. Unfortunately, the Stockbroker, J-Lab and Aaron couldn't make it, so that left just 4 of us for lunch: Miguel, Keiichi, Jean d'Orival (of La Cuisine Française) and I.

We've missed eating at La Tienda since Javi went on his annual vacation back home to San Sebastián, so, now that he's finally back, we were raring to go. We started off with several appetizers and Javi had a few different ones for us today:

Pan con Anchoas y Olivada
(a slice of toasted baguette drizzled with olive oil and topped with fresh anchovies and tapenade)

Sardinas Fritas

Pimientos Rellenos de Bacalao

Escalivadas (of course we had to have this, no meal is complete in La Tienda without it)

With all these, we had a bottle of:

2008 Itsas Mendi 7 Txakolí - My bottle, from a batch that Miguel brought in for me from Spain. Txakolí is a traditional Basque wine (made of hondarrabi zuri grapes) from the D.O. Bizkaiko Txakolina, particularly from Guernica (or "Gernika" as the Basques spell it). The only other txakolí I've tried was the 2008 Txomin Etxaniz (24 June 2009, lunch at La Tienda). Of the 2008 Itsas Mendi 7, this is the second bottle I've opened, the first one very recently at Miguel A's (why are so many Spanish-mestizo friends named "Miguel"?) 12 September 2009 dinner at Elbert's Steak Room. My notes of that bottle, still applicable, are as follows:

Txakolí is a very dry, light, vaguely spritzy white wine that is meant to be enjoyed casually and young. This particular one was not as spritzy as the Txomin Etxaniz of the same vintage and was notably fruitier, with a more pronounced and rounded middle. The dominant flavors are bone dry ripe grapefruit, green apple, bit of citrus with nuances of fresh grass and white seashell. There is a lip-smacking faint bitterness towards the back and in the somewhat abrupt, dry finish that makes me want to take the next sip as fast as possible. Very recommendable as an apéritif with, I imagine, fresh shellfish.

Probably due to its fruitier and rounder character, Javi opined that it resembled an albariño and, noting that Itsas Mendi is located in inland Guernica, explained that txakolí is traditionally made in areas closer to the sea - such as in the case of the aforementioned Txomin Etxaniz (located in seaside Getaria, D.O. Getariako Txakolina, which, incidentally, is a mere 30-35 kilometers west of Javi's hometown of San Sebastián). I could easily be wrong, but perhaps the inland terroir of Guernica gives less stress to the vines and, hence, makes the Itsas Mendi fruitier and rounder? I'll have to consult PhD in Oenology JC de Terry (expert in all edible/drinkable things Spanish) about this.

Well, Javi obviously favored the Txomin Etxaniz over the Itsas Mendi. I thought it was maybe because the Getariako Txakolina wines are "closer to home"? Well, I know Jancis Robinson thinks Txomin Etxaniz is the best producer of its area, for whatever that is worth. Personally, I agree with Javi in that the fruitier Itsas Mendi 7 resembles an albariño, but think that it is more easily approachable for it. I do like both, though. Problem is, Miguel and I have no more of the Txomin Etxaniz.

The table was then cleared for the:

Chuleton with a small order of Paella de Verduras (no picture) and...

The Reds.

2005 Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Beaucastel - Keiichi's bottle. From the name, it was obvious that this wine is a product of some sort of American tie-up with the Rhône heavyweight, Château de Beaucastel. A quick check reveals that Tablas Creek Vineyard is, indeed, a joint venture between Beaucastel and Vineyard Brands' Joseph Haas. Interestingly, Tablas Creek is located in Paso Robles where I visited once to attend the annual pre-Hospices de Rhône dinner of Augie Hug (Hug Cellars) in early May 2006. Had I known about this tie-up, I would have tried to arrange a visit to Tablas Creek.

In any event, this wine is made up of mourvèdre (44%), 26% grenache, syrah (25%) and counoise (5%), the vines of which were grown from cuttings which came from Beaucastel's estate, the grapes fermented in stainless steel tanks, crushed, blended and aged in huge 1200-gallon French oak foudres until bottled in May 2007 (info from Tablas Creek's website).

Though initially apprehensive about this young Central Coast Rhône blend, (yes, because of my admitted Franco-centricity), from the initial sniff, I found its lightly musky, slightly gamey/meaty/sauvage black cherry, blueberry and olive scents did call to mind Beaucastel's Châteauneuf-du-Pape (note that this wasn't tasted blind though). Quite fragrant, actually, and I did not find it at all hot on the nose despite its 14.5% abv. In the mouth, it was easily approachable, its warm fruit (some underlying dark plum in there) surprisingly soft and pliant on a quietly full body. The wood is also surprisingly well in check and seems better-integrated than its youth would make one expect.

Still a bit primary at this young age, I found it drinking very well already, with a good chance of added complexity with a few more years in bottle (maybe 3-5 years). At a modest/reasonable P2375/bottle full retail at Premium Wine Exchange (approximately US$49.50), I recommend it with confidence.

2005 Bodegas Ramón Bilbao Rioja Mirto - Miguel's bottle, decanted for around 45 minutes to an hour before we got to it. I am aware of the maker, an old name, but am not familiar with their wines. It does, however, seem to cast a French shadow in that I did not detect any American oak (traditionally used in Rioja). Deeply-veined, earthy fruit (black cherry and blackberry with a whisper of violets) suggest old vines. Not overly ripe or extracted (a good thing for me), there is a good amount of submerged leather and toasty oak, the wood very smoothly blended in and not obtrusive. Fairly firmly structured, bordering on full-bodied, rich but not at all over-bearing, I like this style of Rioja - it makes me think of a young 1996 Beronia Gran Reserva which I really liked. Nice.

Unfortunately, this is not locally available. Miguel brought this back with him from Spain. Oh well, it was good while it lasted.

After a few more stories and cigarettes, we parted ways. Miguel and Keiichi headed off for another tasting of French wines at Premium Wine Exchange, Jean went home to rest in preparation for evening service, and I headed back to the office to pick my wife up as we had a meeting at our youngest son's school. Lovely lunch, enjoyed the food as usual. It was great to get to eat Javi's food again. We'll surely be back.

The Stockbroker's Advanced Birthday Dinner.

Dinner last night was at back at Sala for the Stockbroker's advanced birthday dinner; just 4 of us: he, Doc, Eric and I. The Stockbroker always brings good wine, whatever the occasion; but, for his birthday, he always kicks it up a notch - or ten.

On these occasions, we are forbidden to bring any bottles as he insists on bringing them all. We do/did, however, bring some, but as gifts, mere tokens of our utmost regard and appreciation of his friendship and generous nature.

Doc, Eric and the Stockbroker

We started off with a bottle of 1982 Salon Le Mesnil Sur Oger, a blanc de blancs (i.e., pure chardonnay) which is the only kind Salon makes, and only in years deemed up to their highest standards. Champagne aficionados know this maker well, their wine considered by many as sort of a "cult" champagne, some say the pinnacle of bubblies. This is only the second vintage of Salon I have ever tried.

We were to have this with our amuse bouche and starters. Unfortunately, this bottle was flawed, the Stockbroker immediately noted the unusually sparse effervescence and Eric almost immediately declared it as damaged. I am well aware that Salon has a slightly oxidized style yet noted that it was too pronounced and had too sharp a sour bite towards the back.

I sucked in some air with the bubbly in hopes of reviving it, and it did help slightly in expanding and frothing it up just past mid-mouth, bringing out a shadow of creaminess to the slim, crisp apple - but none of the depth and generosity I had before experienced. It happens. There is always a risk of buying older vintages and keeping them for years - no matter how careful or selective one is. I asked that the bottle just be set aside instead of being discarded - to see how it fares later on. Alas, we all forgot to get back to it by the end of the evening. For whatever it is worth, Eric highly doubted it would come around.

Undeterred, the Stockbroker promptly pulled out a bottle of 1999 Coche-Dury Meursault. What can I say? Simply stated, Coche-Dury is one of the most revered makers of Meursault and Corton Charlemagne. I've had these only twice in my recollection, both from Gentleman Joe (a '97 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne and a 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault Premier Cru Perrières - tragically, I lost all my written notes of the evening I had the latter), so this was the first village wine I've tried from this maker.

I had this with my appetizer course of Salad of Crispy Lobster Tail with Corn Purée and Roasted Pepper Salsa.

1999 Coche-Dury Meursault - Initially, the bouquet was a little shy/tight, but, after around 15-20 minutes in glass, it released deeply alluring scents of tarte citron complexed by ethereal toasty/leesy, vanilla bean and vaguely nutty beurre noisette notes. These were mirrored beautifully on the palate in a softly curved, medium body. Loved it alone and with my crispy lobster salad. Lobster and corn is an ubiquitous New England combination, and everyone is familiar with the likewise ubiquitous lemon-butter sauce that is served with lobster. Given the flavors of the wine as stated, it is no wonder that the pairing was natural, familiar and precise.

The reds, two grand cru Romanée St-Vivants by two excellent makers, had been opened at the beginning of the evening and had been quietly breathing in bottle for a little over an hour by the time we got to them with our main courses.

I chose the Proscuitto Roasted Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin and Slow-Cooked Belly with Spiced Red Cabbage, Mustard Gnocchi and Apple Elderflower Purée for my main course, as did the Doc.

1997 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Romanée St-Vivant - Even those not familiar with the wines of Burgundy recognize the name of Domaine Romanée Conti (a.k.a., "DRC"), generally considered one of the best, if not the best maker (its wines are certainly the most expensive) of Burgundy. Because this wine is so rarefied, I've had but a handful of their wines, and, amongst them, only one of their whites (an excellent 1997 DRC Montrachet the Stockbroker, Doc and I shared over lunch several years ago).

Romanée St-Vivant is a grand cru climat in the township of Vosne Romanée where, a few hundred meters behind the place de la mairie lies a concentration of the Côte d'Or's top vineyards. The wines from Romanée St-Vivant vineyards are generally known for their relatively lighter body/power and distinctively refined, elegant, pure and floral characteristics. My wife snapped that photo of me outside Arnoux's portion of Romanée St-Vivant during one of our long afternoon walks around the vineyards.

The '97 took but 15-20 minutes to open up its bouquet of decaying violets, sanguinely meaty dark red berry-fruit, black cherry, raspberry, truffle, moist earth/fallen leaves and an alluring suggestion of hoisin sauce. In the mouth, the scents held true on a silken, shades-over-medium body, with added dried fig mid-mouth and sweetish, dark, woody spice notes past mid-mouth that join violets and cherry at the finish. Confidently understated, complex, elegant and notably harmonious. Excellent wine.

This is undoubtedly the best performing red DRC I've had thus far.

1996 Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St-Vivant - This was readier from the get-go, immediately displaying moderate Burgundy decay of violets and sous bois and more forward cherry (amusingly, the Stockbroker hesitates from using this descriptor - I rarely use it myself as I deem it included in "Burgundy decay" and damp earth). This shows younger than the '97 DRC RSV, a shade leaner, with more acidic lift, the black cherry/raspberry notes more at the forefront, and, less evident hoisin, sanguine, meaty notes.

Structure is firmer than the preceding wine, the mouthfeel marginally leaner and the red berry-fruit more focused and better defined. I felt these attributes made it more food-friendly and a better pairing for my main course. Thus, I ate with this wine and reserved the previous wine to be enjoyed alone and, later on.

As if all the foregoing wines had not been enough of a treat, with the cheese course, the Stockbroker opened a half bottle of...

1996 Château d'Yquem - This vintage was also the year the estate was sold to LVMH after over 220 years ownership of the Lur-Saluces family. This wine, however, was still made under the guiding hand of the Comte Alexandre de Lur-Saluces as he continued at the helm until 2004 when he retired completely and was replaced by Cheval Blanc's Pierre Lurton. The Stockbroker reminded us that we last had this wine at a 1996 all Médoc 1st Growth horizontal dinner at his wine shop (in which Eric is a partner) last 29th June 2008 - good thing, since I was so overloaded with wine that night, I failed to take notes on the Sauternes served.

Sauternes' sweet wines, in general, are opulent, rich and luxurious and Yquem's wines are at the top of the heap. With that in mind, when I describe an Yquem, it is always in the context of other vintages of Yquem. That said, this is a rich one, packed with honey, orange blossom essence, very ripe cling peach, orange marmalade, caramel and vanilla bean/crème brûlée. Lush and generous (much more than the '83, a bit more than '86, but not nearly as much as the '88 or '67), but with good structure (I'd say much better than '99, a bit better than '97) and more than adequate acidity to gracefully see it through at least a few more decades.

What a dinner. Another one for the books.

Many thanks again, buddy, and advanced happy birthday! Have a great one!

Manila Gentlemen's Club Rainy Japanese Dinner.

Last night, 2nd October 2009, was the Manila Gentlemen's Club (MGC) Japanese dinner at Toki in the Fort. Being current MGC wine master and de facto food master, I wanted the fellows to get to try the menu I so enjoyed at the Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs Kaiseki Dinner last 28th July, and, so, requested ever-efficient Toki Manager, Kawasaki-san, to serve us the same menu and do the sake pairings for us - the only changes were that the Japanese wagyu steak portions were double-full orders (except mine which was only one full order) and two of the sakes were different. I also chose two wines for the meal.

Unfortunately, though 6 had confirmed attendance for the dinner, due to typhoon Parma (a.k.a., "Pepeng"), 3 backed out at the last minute, leaving the intrepid (or reckless) 3: John Harvey, Richard Everingham (who flew in from China for this dinner) and myself, to enjoy the evening's exemplary Japanese cuisine.

Rather than kick things off with the traditional bottles of champagne, we began with something different for a change.

Gekkeikan Zipang Junmai Sparkling Sake - I had earlier reserved the last 2 bottles in stock of this slightly sweetish, 7% abv, naturally carbonated sake. The froth is very light, somewhat creamy and the flavors call to mind a light, discreetly-fruited ale with a rice-wine flavor.

Tough to describe the flavors more than that. It was very refreshing and easy to drink, and an interesting change, in the spirit of the evening's theme. A pleasant novelty, but nothing I'd take seriously in itself. Good to try out, though, since I was too smashed at the OMGD kaiseki dinner to drink this when served at the end of the meal.

The appetizer course was Deep-fried Octopus and Shrimp, Braised Pork, Kiriboshi Daikon, Steamed Chicken with Sesame Sauce & Grilled Eel, Cucumber, Seaweed with Jelly Vinegar which we enjoyed with:

2007 Laxas Albariño - I've written many times about this crisp, dry, peach, citrus and whitely floral albariño from Rías Baixas, Galicia, and how well it pairs with seafood. Because of its good fruit and middle, it also paired nicely enough with the braised pork and steamed chicken portions. Though a bit over-chilled initially, it warmed up soon enough in the glass and I kept the bottle out of the ice bucket thereafter. I mentioned to John and Richard that this wine won conclusively in our past locally available Albariño Challenge.

Next was one of my favorites at the OMGD Kaiseki Dinner: Crab Chawanmushi Soup which we had with a chilled, slightly sweetish sake as I recalled Arnie's pairing at the previous dinner.

Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai - from the Ishikawa Prefecture, "Kikuhime" is the name of the brewer-producer, "Junmai", according to my brother, means "pure rice". I have seen this sake referred to in English as "Chrysanthemum Princess". I'm no sake expert, but this seemed a lot fuller and broader than most sakes I've had in the past, with a discreetly deeper flavor and distinct savory, raciness to it - which allowed it to stand up to the creamy tofu and crab soup well, and its cool, slight sweetish rice notes lent a nice contrast to the crab and sea-brine flavors.

Richard noted citrusy flavors while John identified an intriguing slight chocolate/cocoa flavor. After trying it again myself, I agreed with them both, the citrus notes come in at attack to mid-palate, where underlying unsweetened chocolate/cocoa quietly emerge, proceeds to the back and lingers at the finish.

The sashimi course followed, Shimaaji, Hamachi, Shake, Maguro and Uni, paired with a warm sake called...

Kenbishi Kuromatsu Junmai - from Hyogo, another pure rice sake, totally hand-crafted, from an old, traditional and enigmatic (no tours or visitors allowed) producer, Kenbishi Sake Brewery, which, according to Kawasaki-san, is very famous in Japan.

Nicely complex, very entertaining and enjoyable. This was my favorite sake of the evening without a doubt. I switched back to the 2007 Laxas Albariño for the Japanese fusion seafood course of Prawn, Oyster, Squid, Toro Cutlet with Ikura Tartar & Tomato Sauce.

Richard thought the dish a bit too busy, though pleasant enough. I figured the creamy western Tartar and thickish tomato sauces underneath were a bit difficult to switch to after the clean, fresh flavors of the sashimi. Still and all, in itself, it is a good dish, one I wouldn't hesitate to order during lunch. The Laxas Albariño, which had warmed up by then, releasing more roundness and dry, fruity heft mid-mouth, was an excellent match, cutting the Tartar sauce and brightening the fried, breaded seafood flavors.

The main course of Wagyu Rump Steak with Salad then made its way to the table. The steak is the real deal wagyu - not from the US or a local version from down south - but imported from Japan, extremely tender, juicy, rich and with a nice savory-buttery-sweetness to its beef flavor. An excellent dish, which I paired with...

2005 Alvaro Palacios Priorat "Les Terrasses" - Purchased from and well-recommended by the venerable JC de Terry and J-Lab as well. I chose this since I noted that some of the guys tend to favor Priorats with chuletón. I followed J-Labs advice and decanted this at least an hour before serving.

This, from attack to finish, to me, seemed a very precisely crafted and harmonious wine. At the cusp of full-bodiedness (I'd call it a trim, neatly packed light-heavyweight), everything is in its proper place: clean, well-ripened, dark fruit (blackberry, minor black cherry and raspberry) finely laced with dark minerality and faintest whispers of pepper and licorice. Its firm structure and confidence are noteworthy, its wood impeccably integrated with its 14.5% abv not at all intrusive.

Apparently, I was not the only one enjoying this wine so much, amongst the 3 of us, we easily polished off 3 bottles of this and wiped our plates clean of the wagyu beef. In Latin legalese, we call this res ipsa loquitur - the thing speaks for itself. The three empty bottles constituted proof positive of this wine's quality, and the empty plates (two of them double full orders, mind you) a ringing testament to the beef's goodness.

At the 2005 Alavaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses' price of approximately P1900/bottle at Terry Selection, it's a definite, no-brainer buy for me. Highly recommended.

So generous, rich and filling was the steak, we were almost dismayed to learn that there were yet two dishes coming, but we finished them off anyway. We were given a choice of hot or cold noodles, John and went for the cold udon, Richard wisely chose the hot ramen, while I opted for the Cold Ramen. On hindsight, I should have followed Richard's lead since it was a cool, rainy night. I liked my ramen though and finished my serving.

Dessert was probably the only Green Tea Ice Cream I have ever actually, genuinely liked. The cylindrical dark chocolate cookie and sliced strawberry added nice touches and kept the ice cream interesting.

An excellent meal as a whole: the food, sakes, wines and, of course, company, made for a great evening. Special mention must be made to the service - it was absolutely perfect, our waitresses were polite, efficient, very pleasant, friendly without being familiar and extremely attentive. They are a credit to Kawasaki-san and Toki itself. Many thanks.

We then moved over to Aubergine across the hall for nightcaps and a few Cohiba Minis (cigarritos) where we were joined by Jessica, Richard's significant other. I recall I had an Irish Coffee while John had some Jameson Irish Whiskey. I can't imagine a nicer way to spend a rainy night. Until the next.

Miguel A's Belated Birthday Dinner.

Miguel A's dinner at La Cuisine Française last night, 30th September 2009, was in belated celebration of his birthday. We were 4 couples, 8 persons in all. I think it was the first time for all of us in the group to try this restaurant. It is always good to discover new places to eat, plus it is very near my office.

We were the last to arrive, around ½-hour late, so the guys were already halfway through appetizers (assorted pâtés, pork rillettes, salmon mousse) and a bottle of:

2001 Château Lascombes - the Stockbroker's bottle, from an 1855 second growth in Margaux, the older vintages of which I used to buy regularly for the house. This was the first vintage of the new owners I got to try. Moderate new oak laces extracted black cherry, plum, crème de cassis, concentrated blackberry, sweetish pipe tobacco, hints of gravel and dark minerals. The fruit has a slight tinge of a preserved character. Readily more modern and stylish than the older vintages I used to drink, but it is a good wine for sure.

After a few sniffs and a couple of analytical sips, I decided to have this wine with my main course. In the meantime, as a belated bubbly toast to Miguel's birthday, I had opened and poured...

Champagne Tattinger Brut Prestige Rosé NV - My bottle, I like rosé bubblies for birthday toasts (I also always wear a red shirt to birthday dinners to wish the celebrant good luck), and this had a deeper blush than many locally available NV bubbly rosés. Bright cherry and raspberry dominate with a pronounced pinot noir character. Minor notes of red currants, bright acidity, yeasty and bready nuances mid-mouth and to the back. Enthusiastic effervescence. Nothing really deep here (it is a NV after all), but very lively and enjoyable. The wine unwinds/uncoils and its fruit gains weight and roundness with a little time in the glass. Barbara appeared to like it a lot.

There was a mature top growth Bordeaux on the table, so I drank it alone to give it my full attention and respect.

1978 Château Cheval Blanc - Miguel's bottle, a gift from his father for his birthday dinner (what a nice gift indeed!). Alluring, lightly truffled, perfumed bouquet of dark violets, ripe and earthy black cherry, plum, black currants, cassis, discreet mocha; mere hints of truffle, leather, cedar and red spice. Good complexity, excellent balance. Halfway between medium and full body, elegant, patrician, fully mature. Many thanks, Miguel, for sharing this with us.

I took a quick smoke after and re-entered as I saw the main courses being served. I had the Carré d'Agneau Provençal.

As earlier mentioned, I paired this mainly with the 2001 Lascombes, but I made sure, as well, to also have with it some of the...

1994 Château La Mission Haut Brion - Doc's bottle, one I tried with him before over dinner at my favorite Je Suis Gourmand almost 1-½ years ago, on the 12th April 2008. My notes then are as follows:

...darkly reflective deep ruby-red, the Doc asked me to guess what it was. I sniffed deeply in the decanter and in glass: mildly truffled, touches of dried herbs and sweet cedar to its dark cherry/raspberry-laced cassis and dark fruit. Before I could hazard a guess, he showed me the bottle. That was when I decided on a crispy goose leg confit for my main course. In the mouth, the wine had an elegantly lithe, silken medium-body that mirrored its nose with subtle "tarry" undertones and perfect acidity which lent it precise balance. The finish had adequate length.

I thought it was elegant, the fruit was clean, pure and honest, not over-ripe/sweet/pruney or obvious like many these days. I know it sounds trite, but this was truly classic Bordeaux - properly reserved, yet not at all stingy with its charms. Along with Angelus, this is one of the best '94s from Bordeaux I have ever had.

Color me surprised, after reviewing the above old notes, this wine hasn't seemed to have changed - and that's a good thing. It's probably on its plateau. Not as sweetly perfumed in bouquet as the '94 Haut Brion, but excellent as well. Very harmonious, very nice.

Desserts were very good and well-recommended:

Tarte aux Pommes Normande with Almonds and Crème Anglaise (like a deconstructed tarte Tatin, really, because of the baked apples' consistency, but not baked upside down and the pastry is phyllo). With this, I brought and opened an old reliable/favorite:

2006 Domaine Bott-Geyl Gewürztraminer "Les Éléments" - My bottle. A rose petal infused, lychee flavored (typical of gewürztraminer) wine - quite ripe but dry (noted by Miguel). Though neither a vendanges tardives (late harvest) or sélection de grains nobles (botrytised), it is actually off dry and very nice with desserts involving baked apples. It also pairs well with terrine of foie gras de canard.

There is an intriguing slight "oiliness" in the mid-palate mouth-feel and there now seems to be a touch of orange rind in the finish. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the bottle, but since I've written about this wine so many times, there is probably no more need of a photo thereof.

Tarte aux Pécan, a.k.a., Pecan Pie. This was from the take-out pastry display case in the front of the restaurant. I had this with my double espresso.

Thanks again, Miguel, and belated happy birthday anew. I wish you many, many more to come.