Miguel's Birthday Lunch 2010.

This past Monday, the 16th August 2010, was Miguel's lunch at La Tienda in anticipation of his coming birthday. Aside from the celebrant, in attendance were Rene, the Stockbroker, Aaron and myself. Mig, of course, brought Spanish wines, and, in his honor, so did we.

Some of the reds.

I got in from the office a little past 12:30, the Stockbroker not long after I.

The rest were there when I arrived, having some Chistorras with...

2004 Freixenet Cuvée DS Gran Reserva - Aaron's bottle. I first tasted this from him during a lunch he hosted on the 30th April 2009, and, thereafter, on the 24th March 2010, at the Freixenet winery within the outskirts of Barcelona. My last notes, still applicable, were as follows:

Freixenet Cuvée D.S. 2004 - Another I've had during Aaron's lunch at Café Ysabel on the 30th April 2009, where I described it as "clean, roundly fruited and brightly crisp". This cuvée is named after a former president of Freixenet, Dolores Sala, and is made only in exceptional years. This 2004 is the 17th bottling since 1969. Immediately deeper, more complex and slightly heftier mid-palate than the previous cavas (i.e., Freixenet Brut Vintage Reserva (2007) & NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut), this shows notes of toast, biscuit and a bit of fig.

With the mildly spicy, rich chistorras, the subject cava was an excellent foil - bright, crisp, fruity and sturdy enough to cleanse and refresh the palate, and, at the same time, add some nicely contrasting and entertaining white fruit notes and acid balance. Really good stuff.

Next up was a platter of Gambas ala Placha. This is one of my favorite appetizers on Javi's regular menu - the shrimps are always astoundingly fresh and the heads darkly bursting with fat (as you can see in the photo below).

They are so perfectly seasoned and crisp that I do not even bother de-shelling them; I hold them by the tip of the "snout" and take them in at one bite, discarding only the sharp ends. They burst with flavor in the mouth. This is one of the prime examples of a simple dish done perfectly, yielding incredible eating pleasure. With this we enjoyed glasses of...

2008 Txomin Etxaniz Txakoli - Miguel's bottle, one of only two vintages of this wine I've had (the 2009 vintage with dinner at Kaia in Getaria on the 2nd April 2010). The first time I had this 2008 was also from Miguel during our lunch with J-Lab on the 24th June 2009. My notes then were...

Txomin Etxaniz Getaria 2008 - Miguel's bottle, brought in from Spain specifically to pair with this dish. From the DO Getariako Txakolina located in Getaria, just outside chef Javi's hometown of San Sebastian in the Basque region whereat Txomin Etxaniz owns 35 hectares of sloping vineyards planted to the native hondarrabi zuri (90%) and hondarrabi beltza (10%) grapes. For whatever it is worth, Jancis Robinson considers this producer the best of the area.

Meant to be served very chilled and traditionally poured at arms' length height, this is a wine meant to be enjoyed casually, paired with starters of shellfish and fish - anchovies and tuna in oil particularly recommended by the producer.

Though it is a still wine, it has a slightly fizzy/carbonated feel on the palate, exhibiting very dry and fresh, light, tartish green apple and lime/citrus flavors with high, though not disturbing, acidity and a very slight appetite-enhancing bitterness past mid-mouth. From my readings, this is typical of txakolis.

It is a rather simple, straightforward, refreshing wine well-suited for the tropical heat and, indeed, seafood dishes. I'd guess it is not for everyone, but I liked it well enough for the novelty of a typical Basque regional pairing. Since it is quite inexpensive, I'd likely buy some to keep at home, but, unfortunately, I do not believe there is any txakoli locally available (...yet).

I can add now only that the wine exhibited fleeting saline/seashore notes. Very nice, very dry, excellent pairing with the above described dish. This is a very traditional style of txakoli; probably not for everyone but true txakoli aficionados. Everywhere in Getaria and in Azpeitia (province of Guipúzcoa in the Basque country), if you order txakoli without specifying any particular producer, Txomin Etxaniz is what you'll be poured. I continued with this for the next two dishes of...

...all time favorite Escalivadas, and....

Prawns Wrapped in Bacon with Pisto.

Most of the reds had been opened much earlier: some in decanter some just in bottle. A short discussion ensued on which to serve first. Upon the Stockbroker's suggestion, the first red on deck was a classic, 21 year-old tinto Riojano.

1989 C.V.N.E. Imperial Gran Reserva - The Stockbroker's bottle. Initially, it was a bit light - a few notches below medium-bodied - and tight, with a bouquet of smoky cedar, leather, violets, red berry/cherry and hints of cigar ash and mushrooms. Mirrored in the mouth, it was pleasurable indeed if a tight. Because of my memorable experience with a decanted 1982 vintage of this wine last 3rd April 2010 in Logroño, I told the guys that I'd hold off finishing my share to see if it gains weight, complexity and power.

After around 30-40 minutes, the wine had fleshed out to almost halfway between medium and full body and gained evident depth and complexity with exquisitely woven, fine balsamic, faint sweetish tobacco leaf, sherry and rose notes. Lightly silken, discreetly elegant. Loved it. This was much, much better than the 1988 version I opened during Aaron's birthday lunch this past June.

Next was a new dish from Javi, a Roasted Tomato Stuffed with Chipirones (small, succulent and tender baby squid). Heavenly - one of the many reasons I always look forward to trying anything new by Javi.

By this time, Tito Kiko Vecin, Miguel's dad, joined us for a couple of glasses of wine. I recall he started off with a bit of the Stockbroker's '89 CVNE Imperial GR. He gamely asked us not to address him as "Tito", and, instead, by just his nickname so he wouldn't "feel old". Of course, none of us could as upbringing demanded that we accord him proper respect.

We were all getting pretty stuffed by then and expected Javi's trademark Chuletón with Fries to make its entrance. Instead, yet another pre-chuletón dish arrived: Brocheta de Solomillo y Bacon con Arroz Cremoso, Foie Gras y Salsa de Oporto - yet another great favorite of the group. I assure you, stuffed and surprised as we were, nobody complained and all dishes were cleaned.

2001 Campillo Pago Cuesta Claro "Raro" Rioja Reserva - Aaron's wine, the 2001 bottled only in magnum and double magnum formats. This is made up, he explained, of 100% tempranillo peludo (i.e., "hairy tempranillo" from the fuzz found on its leaves) - a tempranillo clone said to be what the very first tintos Riojanos were made from. This is an almost extinct grape, he elaborated, and only 2-3 Riojan producers now make wine from it.

Hefty, confident, a little past halfway between medium and full body, deeply veined, well-concentrated and rounded, minerally, black cherry, raspberry, wild cherry, ripe dark plum, bit of underlying black coffee, licorice, new leather, bit of violets, slight balsamico and tobacco. Definitive strike, pronounced middle and a long, confident finish. This youngster made a very good account of itself amongst its older and more famous brethren. A definite pleasure to drink, and very easy to drink a lot of. As the Stockbroker himself noted:

my fave was the 64 faustino as well, followed by the 95 unico which was starting to show more developed characteristics. i agree that the CVNE did finally come around as noel had predicted. but the wine I kept going to was the "hairy" one. aaron- pls bring me some mags

Javi then came out to check on us...

...and join us in a glass or two of wine.

1998 Vega Sicilia Único - Rene's bottle. As most anyone who knows Spanish wine is fully aware, Único is the flagship of the legendary Vega Sicilia. Per the Stockbroker, 1998 is a particularly highly critically-acclaimed vintage of this wine, garnering 98 points from the Wine Advocate to begin with.

I don't know how long Rene decanted this, but it was quite open and generous, displaying perfumed aromas of sweetish macerated cherry, kirsch, raspberry, underlying cassis, spices, violets, bit of new leather and discreetly toasty oak. Very rounded, hefty, powerful, creamy-fruited but not at all aggressive or over-bearing - everything was in good balance. Very nice indeed. Remarkable nose. Probably the only vintage of Único I've had that I could even begin to think of as comparatively/remotely feminine.

1995 Vega Sicilia Único - Miguel's bottle. Decidedly masculine, serious, worn leather, pipe tobacco, earthy deep dark fruit, black cherry, cassis, violets, very slight hint of balsamico, cedar, mild licorice, whispers of dark minerality, chocolate and fig. It's darkly serious and somberly complex character reminded me of the 1996 version. Solid structure, rigid backbone underneath the fruit. Excellent balance. Macho yet contemplative wine, and an especially fine match for the...

...Chuletón with Fries...

...and Javi's Signature Baked Piquillo Peppers - a recipe from his abuela. Heavenly.

Next was another treat from Miguel - a wine that Aaron, Miguel and I have been planning to try for several months now. We awaited with silent anticipation as Rene carefully uncorked this aged beauty.

1964 Faustino I Gran Reserva - Miguel's bottle. A bottle we sourced from Aaron's contact in Bodegas Faustino - Mig, Aaron and I all got some of this, but Aaron and I promised our wives we'd open ours with them. Luckily, Miguel generously stepped up to bat with this famous tinto Riojano from Rioja's legendary vintage 1964 (only 2001 is said to be a comparable vintage for Rioja).

The Stockbroker examined, swirled, sniffed and sipped, breaking our reverential silence with great admiration of its complexity, surprising youthfulness (for a 46 year-old wine) and finesse. "What a nose!" exclaimed he and Aaron.

I think Aaron's notes accurately captured what we all thought of the wine. I certainly could not have put it any better, so I quote:

Faustino I Gran Reserva, Rioja, 1964

Yet another wine that we've all been wanting to open. Hailing from one of Rioja's greatest vintages (if not the greatest), this particular bottle has been positively reviewed, with The Pour's Eric Asimov calling it "ethereal". Very youthful color, with orange, salmon and rose at the rim, and no browning whatsoever. Jojo was the first to take a stab at the wine and instantly raved about it. What a nose. Layers of flowers, truffles, dust and nuts, mixed with jasmine and phosphorous. A subtle sweetness and a sherry-like oxidation permeate the finish. Very luscious, limber, and full of finesse. When we had the Tondonia GR 1991 at La Tienda before, I likened that wine to Penelope Cruz in Vanilla Sky. This bottle is Jean Seberg in Godard's A Bout de Souffle-- alluring, disarming, profound, enigmatic; similar to that movie's English title, it just leaves you breathless.

All I can add is that I am very happy Aaron was able to source us bottles of these - straight from the producer's own cellar no less so provenance was perfect. This is a wonderful specimen of classic aged Rioja. Like the 1974 Contino Reserva that winemaker Jesús de Madrazo graciously shared at the winery on the 26th March 2010, if not for the balsamic notes, if tasted blind, I imagine that I could mistake this 1964 Faustino I Gran Reserva for a fine, aged red Burgundy.

Coffees and espressos for all.

My bottle of 1991 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva was left unopened for Miguel to bring home and enjoy. Wine meals are always great with these fellows, but this one was extra special and eminently memorable. A million thanks to Miguel for hosting us. We are all most grateful. Happy birthday again, buddy, and many more to come. ¡Salud!

The Usual Suspects' "Panic" Wine Lunch 2.

We were first introduced to "Panic" wine tasting by Keiichi and his friends from Tokyo on the 2nd February 2010 at a lunch at Je Suis Gourmand.

Keiichi with Tokyo's Team Panic at the 1st Panic Lunch.

Essentially, it is a blind wine tasting exercise with no limitations on where a wine can come from or how old it can be; people are given only around 2-3 minutes to identify each wine's main grape variety, origin and vintage - hence, everybody tends to "panic" under time pressure.

Keiichi moved back to Tokyo around 5 months ago, but still visits every so often - most recently last Monday, the 9th August 2010. In his honor, therefore, the Stockbroker organized another Panic Lunch with the group at Je Suis Gourmand (please excuse the poor quality of the succeeding photos as I forgot my camera that day and took all the shots with my phone).

Johnny, Greg & the Stockbroker

As a twist, we were organized into 2 teams, captained respectively by the Stockbroker and J-Lab who decided on the rules: no restrictions on origin or vintage, floor but no ceiling limit on price, 10 minute limit to analyze, discuss and submit a team consensus/guess for each wine, no need to identify dominant grape variety but it was encouraged, and, in identifying country of origin, Rhone, Burgundy, Alsace, or Bordeaux left or right bank had to be specified if French, and Piedmont in the case of Italy. In identifying vintages, if a team guesses a vintage within the range of 2000 to 2010, only the exact year is given a point. For older vintages, guesses within one year of the actual vintage will be given a point. One point for every correct guess of origin and vintage as per said rules (obviously, we will refine the rules for the next panic event).

Teams were chosen by draw, the Stockbroker's team included Johnny, Greg, Arnie and myself; J-Lab's of Aaron, Keiichi, Vince, Miguel and Rene. Each team serves the other team 2 whites and 3 reds blind.

Miguel & Aaron open their bottles behind the bar.

Lunch orders taken.

The anticipation.

My Saffron & Mushroom Soup.

Team J-Lab White # 1 - Lushly fruity, good acid balance despite rather sweetishly ripe peach, bit of apricot, grapefruit, gooseberry. Not much woodiness/oak. Medium bodied, good structure and complexity. Quite pleasantly fruity, nice brightness/freshness. We guessed it to be a Spanish blanco from 2007 - it turned out to be Miguel's 2006 La Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri Rioja Blanco (a blend of many grapes per Miguel). One point to Team Stockbroker for origin, none for vintage.

Team Stockbroker White # 1 - This was my bottle, a romorantin-based wine from Cour Cheverney in the Loire. Very dry, crisp, a bit steely, under medium-bodied, minerality like a Chablis' but the fruit base is totally different, slight appetizing bitterness at the finish. The wine was served a bit too cold I noted. Keiichi immediately suggested the Loire but was over-ruled. Thinking it was a dry viognier, Team J-Lab guessed 2002 Rhône. It was my 2005 Domaine de la Plante d'Or Cuvée Salamandre Cour Cheverny. No points for Team J-Lab.

Team J-Lab White # 2 - Oaky, a bit fat and low on acid, notably ripe, higher in alcohol and soft-baked fruited. Lots of vanilla/oak. My team-mates detected a bit of petrol on the nose (I didn't) and the voting went to identifying it as a 1999 from Germany (I commented that it tasted too hot climate to be German and I maintained there was no way for it to be a riesling). It was Aaron's 2007 Morlanda Blanco from Priorat. No points for Team Stockbroker.

Since our team's 2nd white was sweet, we moved on to the reds for main courses.

My main course of Flank Steak.

Team Stockbroker's Red # 1 - Rich, deep, smooth, meaty, mouth-filling, virtually chewy, remarkable structure. Sweetish-ripe-spicy at first but eventually yielded some very slight animal notes on top and roasted coffee grounds underneath. Team J-Lab guessed it to be a Chilean red from 1998. It was the Stockbroker's 1997 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cabassou (both J-Lab and I considered this the best red of the lunch). One point for Team J-Lab for vintage, none for origin.

Team J-Lab's Red # 1 - Dark, woody, dense, sweetish, intense, with with Turkish coffee and a bit of cough syrup underneath the notably concentrated/extracted/somewhat raisin-suggestive dark fruit which trail on the finish. The guys were thinking new world when I commented the finish reminds me of port - though this wine was not fortified. I believe this triggered the consensus to switch to Portugal. It's apparent youth and drive made our team's guess to be a wine from 2005. It turned out to be Vancouver Vince's 2004 Quinta do Crasto from Douro. One point for Team Stockbroker for origin, none for vintage.

Team Stockbroker's Red # 2 - Though this wine was from our team, I didn't know what it was beforehand. It threw me for a loop, I couldn't get a handle on it (though I wasn't trying too hard since the other team was supposed to guess). It was a bit hard, very firm acidity, with cherry, plum and raspberry dominating but I couldn't really discern much else. Team J-Lab guessed it to be a 2004 Australian red. It turned out to be Greg's 2004 Bodegas Baigorri Rioja Reserva (I've never heard of or tried anything from this producer). One point for Team J-Lab for vintage, none for origin. I note that Miguel, Aaron and I (who are quite familiar with Riojan tintos) weren't able to nail it as Riojan.

Team J-Lab's Red # 2 - Very dry, hard, cassis/blackcurrant-dominated with a hint of underlying plum. Quite unyielding. I commented that this tasted very, very young. Arnie immediately opined it to be an Australian cabernet sauvignon. The consensus was that it was a 2001 Australian red. It turned out to be Rene's 2007 Yarra Yering Dry Red # 1. One point to Team Stockbroker for origin, none for vintage.

Team Stockbroker's Red # 3 - Cedary, initial scents ammonia and slight metal (tin); the wine was very closed, however, grudgingly yielding dried herb-tinged, austere and dry blackcurrant and a bit of woodiness. Not enjoyable for me and many others. Most of them said Left Bank Bordeaux. Keiichi suggested 2006 but was over-ruled. Team J-Lab guessed it to be a Bordeaux Left Bank from 2004. It was Johnny's 2006 Château de Fieuzal from Pessac-Léognan. One point to Team J-Lab for origin, none for vintage.

Team J-Lab's Red # 3 - A bit of heat and concentrated, sweetish-roasted dark red fruit with a hit of pepper on the nose made everyone on our team almost immediately identify it as syrah based (no points for grape variety though). Big, concentrated, very hefty, a bit syrupy, quite spicy and the wood, though apparent, did not over-power and was markedly well folded in. The guys went for Australia. I pointed out that it would be too easy for us to guess an Australian syrah so it was highly unlikely that Team J-Lab would enter one - and, besides, the wood notes seemed far too moderate to me. The consensus was 2005 Australia. It turned out to be Keiichi's 2006 Tua Rita Syrah - an IGT Tuscan wine. No points for Team Stockbroker on this one.

Miguel & Rene

With the teams all even at 3-3, it came down to Team J-Lab's guess on Team Stockbroker's 3rd white - the last of the panic wines. J-Lab favors sweet whites and is very well-versed in them - so his team-mates pretty much left guessing this last wine to him.

Team Stockbroker White # 3 - J-Lab's notes on this are as follows:

Obviously a dessert wine. My team pretty much left the guessing of this up to me since I'm much more into dessert wines than the other team members. Some orange. Very ripe. Excellent balance. Crystallized fruit. Very fresh. Very nice. Definitely a Muscat from the nose alone. Probably French as it didn't have the weight of a New World wine. I settled on 2007 Rhone (Muscat Beaumes de Venise). Right grape but no points for that, unfortunately. (Arnie's) Samos Grand Cru Muscat 2009 from Greece. No points.

Thus, the Usual Suspects' Panic Wine 2 session ended in a tie - with which all were pretty much satisfied and happy. J-Lab then opened up his bottle of 2004 Château Lascombes for everyone to relax with and savor sans panic. I've written about this wine at least twice before, my latest notes (22nd January 2010), still applicable, are here.

It was a very fun and challenging lunch to welcome back Keiichi. It had also been quite a long time since the Usual Suspects were all in attendance as even Vancouver Vince was in town, so it was especially enjoyable and memorable. Until the next!

Commanderie de Bordeaux Manila Dinner by Ciçou.

Last night, the 7th August 2010, was at the spouses Vigneron's place for a relatively small La Commanderie de Bordeaux Manila dinner/get-together with some members and guests. Restaurant Ciçou's Cyrille Soenen personally prepared the meal which was impeccably served by his team. We were 16 (members and guests) in all, including the evening's hosts.

The evening started with some glasses of chilled 2007 Château Carbonnieux Blanc, a rather ripe, though still bright and well-defined white from Pessac-Léognan that showed notes of guava and slight peach in its grapefruit and pear base. With this we enjoyed several pass-arounds, including Cyrille's signature Pork Rillettes on Pain de Campagne and Beef Tartare. Dinner proper followed after around a hour.

The Menu

The Anticipation

Amuse bouche-sized soup course.

This course of Marble Terrine of Pan-Fried Duck Foie Gras and Unagi with Teriyaki Sauce, a side of Red Cabbage Salad and Lemon Confit was absolutely and sinfully good: creamy, rich, but not heavy or tiring on the palate; the red cabbage salad and lemon confit adding precise counterpoint and balancing contrast.

This was an excellent and indulgent course which everybody loved - and that's saying a lot given the particularly well-traveled, discriminating and experienced palates of the evening's diners.

The main course was Whole Roasted Pamora Farms Capon with Assorted Vegetables & Gravy; the Leg Stuffed with Duck Liver, Chestnuts, Mushrooms and Truffle Oil. Close friends know my general aversion to chicken dishes, but there are a few exceptions. This dish was one of them. The capon breast was virtually every bit as moist and succulent as the stuffed dark meat (which I prefer) and the stuffing itself was nice and earthy, the duck liver subtle and the chestnuts' earthiness picked up by the rustic potatoes.

The night's red wines, served in 3 flights of 2, were the same as those featured at the last Commanderie Manila dinner at RED (28th May 2010), namely:

2001 Château Bernadotte

2005 La Fleur de Boüard

2005 Réserve de la Comtesse

2005 Carillon de l'Angélus

1988 Château l'Angélus

1975 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

Those who wish to read my previous/recent notes on the listed wines may click on the highlighted link above. At the subject dinner, I took particular note of only the last 2 wines: the 1975 Pichon Lalande vis-a-vis the 1988 Angelus.

1975 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - In my post on the immediately previous Commanderie dinner, I opined that the bottle that night was the best '75 Pichon Lalande I've had. Well, the ones last night seemed even better. The bouquet presented a stunning array of ceps, earth, slight rust and iodine, old, book-pressed violet petals, cedar and a bit of compost (in a good way - like in an old Burgundy rouge). Excellent strike. It's palate presence was commanding yet dignified showing remarkable depth, elegance and balance - all the way through to its long, confident finish. Superb.

I noted with Maja Olivares-Co that, in the previous dinner, the Angelus wines seemed to have overshadowed those of Pichon Lalande - and agreed that such was not the case last night. At the subject dinner, the '75 Pichon Lalande was easily our wine of the night. Compared to the latter, the 1988 Château Angelus' full-bodied, vanilla, chocolate and pipe tobacco-infused, very extracted/concentrated/ripe dark plum, kirsch, loam, preserved raspberry and slight craisin notes, to me, seemed a bit clunky, blocky and over-wrought. The '88 Angelus was not bad at all, mind you, it's just that, that evening, the '75 Pichon Lalande showed much more elegance, refinement and balance.

The dessert course of Kouing Aman Cake with Poached Pear in Vanilla Syrup & Salted Caramel Ice Cream followed. Many, including my wife and I expressed notable compliments for this - but none as deeply appreciative as Louis-Paul's.

Louis-Paul explained that the Kouing Aman Cake is native to and hails from his hometown in France's Brittany region. As such, he is more than familiar with this dish, and, declared he, in all his years of travel and fine dining, he has never had one as authentically delicious as that which Cyrille served us last night - a great compliment indeed. Cyrille received a host of accolades and a well-deserved round of applause for his great efforts.

Most took their respective leaves way before midnight, leaving a few of us lingering over more stories and a few cigarettes outdoors at the hosts' lanai. Excellent evening.

Christine, Doc, Alfred, little Annabelle, Felicia, Mrs. Vigneron, Mrs. Doc, Catha & Lucy

Romy, Louis-Paul, the Vigneron, Maja, Bernie, Keiichi & Rombit

Until the next!

A Nahe Riesling & Rioja Gran Reserva.

Had dinner last night (5th August 2010) at my in-laws' and I brought a white and a couple of reds - the latter for the house specialty roast beef. I took only one photo of 2 of the bottles at home; none of the food or during the dinner. There were other guests who may not have been all that comfortable with me clicking away incessantly.

2007 Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Spätlese - Typical clean, pure, light-footed, graceful Dönnhoff (a legendary Nahe riesling producer) riesling showing off-dry, slate-touched pear, bit of peach, apricot, bit of kiwi and slight ripe pineapple. Though not quite as well-defined, minerally or zippy as the 2007 Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese, that is but an academic - as opposed to an "enjoyment factor" - observation. Already and undoubtedly pleasing, this will surely gain even more complexity over many, many more years. I'm glad I still have other bottles of this. Available at Premium Wine Exchange at P2600/bottle full retail.

1995 Bodegas Campillo Rioja Gran Reserva - Bodegas Campillo is part of the revered Grupo Faustino of Rioja Alavesa, the former is situated in Laguardia, Rioja Alavesa's wine capital. The subject wine is 100% tempranillo, hand-picked from 100-year-old vines, aged for 24 months in 3-year-dried Allier barrels* and, as I understand, for another 5 years in bottle before release.

I've had this from Aaron before, my last notes from a tapas-and-Rioja dinner at Miguel's on the 20th February 2010. My notes at the time were as follows:

1995 Bodegas Campillo Rioja Gran Reserva - Aaron's bottle. Immediately notable was the wine's subtle power and admirable depth of well-rounded fruit (typical black cherry, bit of kirsch, raspberry, bit of strawberry). The very well-integrated oak is almost assuredly not new and, I think, probably French. Acidity is sufficient and proper. Leather, tobacco, slight licorice, cedar and violet notes are seamlessly intertwined. Excellent push on the palate, it exudes confidence from attack to finish. Many years left ahead of this, it is drinking admirably youthfully at almost 15 years from vintage.

What I can add now is that the fruit is soft, ripely-sweetish (particularly the cherry which has a macerated character) and notably deep; the tannins are velvety. The oak-related notes (slight vanilla, hint of chocolate, etc.) are subtle and very well-integrated; the acidity quite moderate (probably due to the absence of mazuelo). Very rounded middle. This presents a more stylish and widely approachable style of Rioja gran reserva (as compared to, say, the 1991 LdH Tondonia gran reserva which is inherently suited for traditional Rioja connoisseurs). Nice with my rare roast beef main course; the sweetish macerated cherry notes were entertaining counterpoints to the rich, fatty beef and the acidity just enough to keep the beef from tiring the palate.

Nice, fun, wholesome night.

*Though many believe the use of French oak in Riojan tintos is "modern" or "new wave", it is actually not. Historically, in Rioja, ageing in French oak antedated that of American oak. Research shows that the use of American oak was generally switched to in the very late 1800s-early 1900s due to the price difference (French oak was much more expensive). In any event, the use of French oak was "reintroduced" to Rioja by Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres 40 years ago - which, in my book, hardly qualifies as "new-wave" at this point. For whatever it is worth, Spanish wine journalist and winemaker, Victor de la Serna, lists Bodegas Campillo as one of the traditional Rioja producers.

Tasting PWX's La Rioja Alta Line.

Last night, 31st July 2010, was at Terry's 2º Piso tasting through Premium Wine Exchange's (PWX) new line of wines by Bodegas La Rioja Alta with the Stockbroker and JC de Terry. Said wines will be formally launched via a wine dinner on the coming 11th August at said venue (since I am familiar with La Rioja Alta's wines, the Stockbroker asked me to help out in organizing the wine-pairing launch and, of course, I was happy to do this as a favor*).

The scheduled 6-course pairing menu was created and will be executed by the Philippines' master of Spanish cuisine and wine, JC, and his team, including, of course, the young and very able chef Luis Chikiamko. Only 24 seats will be available on a first-come-first-served basis. Those interested may reserve seats through Premium Wine Exchange at 8123823 or 8405319 or via e-mail: christine.anotado@pwxchange.com.ph.

The Stockbroker opens the bottles

Though I have had all the wines (except one) not long ago at the winery and with Aaron and James, the Stockbroker wanted JC and I to go through them again to fine-tune the pairing menu - hence, the subject tasting.

Per JC's suggestion, we tasted the 7 wines in 2 groupings:

First Group

I've made very detailed notes on these wines from my above-mentioned tasting at the winery and at La Tienda (which may be referred to in addition to the shorter, more evaluative notes below by clicking on the highlighted links).

2003 Viña Alberdi Reserva - Though the ripe-roasted vintage traits are apparent in the somewhat confited nature of the fruit (wild cherry, raspberry with a slight meaty touch), it retains good freshness as well as concentration. One of the most balanced 2003s I've had. P1400/bottle SRP at PWX.

2005 Barón de Oña - Richer, lusher and immediately very well-rounded. Denser, heftier, also slightly confited fruit, nice hit of spice and entertaining wood-related notes. Bigger than the preceding Alberdi and also nicely balanced. JC likened it to Burgundy (Nuits St-Georges in particular). P1600/bottle SRP at PWX.

2001 Viña Arana Reserva - All I could do was note how very harmonious, well-knit and well-balanced this wine is. Similar in nature to the Alberdi and the Ardanza, JC pointed out that, having the 3 in a line shows the unmistakable (for him anyway) elegant La Rioja Alta style. P1800/bottle SRP at PWX.

2000 Viña Ardanza Reserva - More balsamic notes on this one compared to the previous 3 wines. What was most notable to us was how very clean, well delineated and well focused this was. Very elegant and light-footed wine. Nicely complex too and with an impressive finish. I mentioned to them that this particular bottling is a current "pet project" of winemaker Julio Sáenz who prefers the oak barrels of Tonnellerie François Frères for this line. P2200/bottle SRP at PWX.

Second Group

2005 Marqués de Haro Selección Especial - This is the first time I've had this bottling. Notably darker, richer, denser, heftier, more concentrated and extracted. Longer hang time with this; probably older vines too. Quite complex in a very ripe, markedly lower-acid way - I noted notes of fig and underlying slight roasted meat as well. Old-style use of oak is also very apparent - JC astutely likened it to the style of Marqués de Murrieta's Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial and had served with it some velvety-savory cecina de León (smoked and air-dried hind leg of beef from same-named Indicación Geográfica Protegida) and let the Stockbroker and I sniff it first so we could pick up the similar scent underneath the wine's fruit. P4900/bottle SRP at PWX (but the Stockbroker said he might adjust the price downward).

Pretty amazing how JC almost immediately made such a specific food-connection after trying the wine. Surely, now, this cecina will play a role in this wine's pairing dish.

1997 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 - Though I've had this wine at least thrice before off the top of my head, this was definitely the most expressive bottle I've had. Obviously silkier and more refined in nature (balsamic, cedar, ripe tamarind, black cherry, hint of kirsch, underlying leather notes, etc.) - it made the preceding wine seem a touch rustic. Miguel, I and a few others noted a somewhat clipped finish in previous bottles of this, but this bottle was far better in this regard. No clipping here, rather, a confident, expressive, precise and proper finish. P3100/bottle SRP at PWX.

1995 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890 - This wine I've posted on several times in the past few months (most recently here) so it is no secret how much I love this wine - so elegant and expressive with great typicity. Since I've written about it last just over a week ago, there is no need to repeat myself. Besides, the entire stock of PWX of this sold out almost immediately (at P6500/bottle SRP), so no more is currently/locally available. The Stockbroker said PWX may likely try to get more stock though. The last several bottles have been set aside for the coming event.

After the tasting proper, we enjoyed a bottle of Carolina de Masachs Cava courtesy of JC. This particular bottling of Masachs cava has 10% chardonnay in the blend - very brightly crisp, bracingly dry, vibrantly fruited, playfully frothy and most reinvigorating - especially after 7 reds. This will also be served at the launching dinner. Available at Terry's at slightly below P1000/bottle if I am not mistaken.

As some may have noticed in previous photos, it just so happened the spouses Vigneron, Miguel & Barbara A. and their respective children were having dinner at the table behind us. Not having seen them in a while, the subject tasting turned into a nice little reunion of sorts as well.

¡Hasta la proxima!

*I have no interest whatsoever in PWX or the sale of any of the wines of La Rioja Alta and receive no benefit, in coin or kind, for writing about the wines or their coming launch. My writing about it is for pure pleasure and to spread the word and consequent enjoyment for those who wish to join. I myself will surely attend the launching dinner, but for pure enjoyment of the fine wines, JC's pairing menu and the company.