Decent Red Burgundy at $34.99 and 1996 Chateau Montrose

With my friend, the Doc, and our wives last Saturday with thick, juicy, medium-rare US Prime rib-eyes dinner at "Mamou":


2000 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru "Goulots" by Domaine Heresztyn - I first came across Domaine Heresztyn in the Burgundy listing of Flickinger Wines but didn't buy any due to unfamiliarity with the maker. Lately, I came across a few write-ups on it, one by Clive Coates. Nothing too specific, but I gathered that he is an immigrant from Poland to France and used to work for Trapet. That same day, I found some of his '00 Geverey Chambertin Goulots on sale at KL for only $34.99. Pretty much anything at that price range being worth a risk (and liking Gevrey Chambertins anyway), I bit.


Medium Burgundy red, flowed easily in the glass. Demure, slightly sweetish strawberry/raspberry/beetroot/violets/merest whisper of truffle in the nose; mirrored in a lithe, barely medium body with a slight touch of unsweetened dark chocolate to the rear and medium finish (violets trail on the finish). Elegant, deftly made, ethereal wine. I liked it a lot especially at its price. I would pay more for this - probably up to $55. Those who favor California or even Oregon pinots may find this too light for their tastes.


1996 Montrose - The Doc brought this as well as a '00 Domaine de la Mordoree CdP Reine de Boise, but I chose the Montrose saying that we should open the Mordoree when the Stockbroker (who favors CdP more than I) is around.I do appreciate red Burgs and, to a lesser extent, red Rhones; but when it comes to red wine, my heart belongs to Bordeaux.This '96, still a bit young, but is excellent. Unabashed profiles of smokey cedar, cassis, merest whisper of anise, minerals, slight leather, hints of tobacco underneath. Nice warmth. Coming together very well. Good complexity now. This is what I recall, but I can't seem to do it justice in words. I've long favored Montrose; drinking a good bottle of it is always comforting.


I've repeatedly written that '96s are good drinking these days: Gruaud Larose (could stand a bit more ageing, but drinking well), Leoville Poyferré (already drinking excellently), Cos d'Estournel (also a bit young, but already captivating), Pichon Baron (drinking nicely, not quite sure if it will still much improve over more time though), etc. The '96 Montrose is no different. I like it more than the Gruaud Larose and the Pichon Baron of the same year. Among those mentioned, the Cos is the best for me, but, price-wise, it's around double of the Montrose - not quite in the price category that I would open at the drop of a hat. Bang for the buck, it's a toss up between Leoville Poyferré and Montrose - if "good-to-go now" is factored in, Poyferré would take the gold.


In any event, the '96 Montrose is a wine for me. I'd drink it anytime.