Vertical Tasting of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

The International Wine & Food Society held a vertical tasting dinner of Pichon Lalande Thursday before last, 13 March 2008 at Old Manila. 18 persons attended including the French Ambassador, Gérard Chesnel, and William-Alain Miailhe de Burgh who used to administer this then family-owned estate until the early 70s. Thereafter, Michel Delon of Léoville las Cases took over from Mr. Miailhe until 1978 when the château was turned over to Madame de Lencquesaing.

The vintages were:

First Flight: 2001, 1998, 1996, 1995 and 1989.

Second flight: 1988, 1986, 1985, 1983 and 1975 (the 1975 was donated by Mr. Miailhe from Siran's cellar). I'd tried all the vintages before except the 1975 and 1983.

I had earlier offered to donate some 1979, but the Society president said 10 vintages were enough for the tasting.

As most who read my blog are most likely already familiar with this suave, somewhat feminine Pauillac (and, since it is a vertical, many descriptors will wind up being repeated anyway), I will do away with most of the cassis, red berry, earthy, graphite, cedar descriptors.

Though we were to rank the wines, the tasting was not done blind. I pointed out that I felt that since we were to rank the wines, the tasting should have been done blind; otherwise, we should just sit back and enjoy the differences of the vintages without ranking. In any event:

My Own Ranking and Notes (from 1st to 10th):

1st - 1995, because, though it had a somewhat comparatively reticent nose, it had a wonderfully rounded, velvety mouthfeel and a long definitive finish. I ranked it 2nd in my first pass, but switched it to 1st on the second pass. This probably should still be aged more for quite a bit.

2nd - 1985, a comparatively masculine, earthy, truffled PL. Not surprised I liked this a lot, Edouard brought this to one of our blind tasting dinners and it won 1st place over 1985 Mouton Rothschild, 1982 Pichon Lalande, 1988 Léoville las Cases and 1989 Trotanoy.

3rd - 1996, typically elegant style of PL (sweet smelling with just the merest alluring hint of truffle), surprisingly (to me, anyway) lighter than the '95 and it was the least brilliant looking in the flight. Though pure and elegant, it didn't seem to make much of a comparative statement in the mouth.

4th - 1989, as I remember it before, cut from the same cloth as the '95 but a few shades lighter in body. In the mouth, earthy, truffled, a bit gamey.

5th - 1983, very nice PL, one I'd not had before, fine and complex, a bit of resin to the smokey cedar - but in a good way. I remember liking this quite a lot and am surprised now, after reviewing my notes, that I ranked it "only" 5th.

6th - 1975, the Doc, Stockbroker and I commented on how young this 32+ year old wine looked. If served blind, I'm sure that I would not have guessed it to be the oldest by its looks. Very nice for a '75, definitely mature and well preserved, but not much weight or mouthfeel and a bit short.

7th - 1986, this is the third time I've tried this vintage, and it is the third time I was less than impressed. Definitely not the typically elegant PL, or even attractively butch like the 1989 or 1985. The flavors seem superficial, the finish, again, short with a disturbing hint of astringency.

8th - 1988, I had this many years ago and found it a bit hollow, not much of a middle. My current notes state: "Kicking up truffles/gamey, warm feel but with a finish that ends abruptly".

9th - 1998, lightest color of the 1st flight, bit of tin and minerals hovering above the sweet craisin, slightly herbaceous nose. Flavor separation detected, comparatively green, weak middle.

10th - 2001, good structure though still quite youthfully astringent. Not quite enjoyable at this point; not for me, anyway. Though I reserve judgment now, I couldn't help but rank it 10th. Not very fair, I know, but, there it is.

Group Ranking (Weighted Scores):

1st - 1975
2nd - 1989
3rd - 1985
4th - 1986
5th - 1996
6th - 1995
7th - 1988
8th - 1983
9th - 1998
10th - 2001