2005 Siran & "S" de Siran

29 April 2008, at the Benjarong Restaurant of the Dusit Hotel Manila, Edouard brought his 2005 for us to re-try:

2005 Château Siran - I tasted this 2005, among others, in July 2006. My notes then were as follows:

Chateau Siran- Big, chunky black fruit, cassis and some leather over mild black coffee and violet notes. Lots of weight and rolling muscle in this wine. A powerful, tannic bully-boy now. I think this may mirror their '82 now in around 15-20 years. Yet another with great ageing potential from Siran.

Last night, the wine poured a brilliant royal ruby-red darkening to a midnight purple and red core. Very visually attractive. I let the wine breathe for an hour in my glass before sipping.

When the youthful alcohol finally subsided, it released a rich, spicy aroma that called to mind crushed, ripe blood-red wild berries over ripe plum, blackberry compote and minerals, with hints of camphor, Spanish cedar and iron.

In the mouth, the red-berries were pure and rich with a touch of sweetish ripeness, underpinned by cassis, dark plum, touches of dark spice, licorice, with espresso, mocha and pine needle nuances, subdued minerals and earthy whispers of iron and leather.

Evidently less burly than in July 2006, with the royal red berries coming through the black fruit elegantly. A lot of the chunkiness has gone, the wine has smoothed out immensely, though, of course, still youthfully tannic. Full-bodied, well-rounded, powerful with an incredibly long finish. I think the balance of power and grace is quite notable and believe this will be very long-lived. I'm talking many decades.

I no longer think this will grow up to be like their 1982. It seems to me that, given several decades in a cellar, it may evolve more along the lines of Siran's gracefully feminine, ethereal and elegant vintage 1953.

What can I say? I was very impressed. Over-performing in spades.

This is definitely a buy for the cellar.

2005 "S" de Siran - The 2nd wine of the château, from younger vines and without any petit verdot. Visually similar to the 1st wine, but marginally less dark. The flavors likewise similar, but not as big or hefty - it is medium-bodied plus a bit. Comparatively linear, lighter on its feet, with a less heavy dark fruit base and noticeably less iron/leather nuances but more apparent minerality. The red berries are very pure. I can't seem to emphasize purity enough.

After letting it sit in the glass virtually undisturbed for an hour and 15 minutes, the aroma was so sweet with tiny ripe, bright red berries and sweet cedar. Lovely 2nd wine. Probably be drinking well in 2-4 years, but already enjoyable with material aeration.

I understand that limited quantities of these two wines will soon be available at Premium Wine Exchange (and, possibly, elsewhere). Better reserve ahead of time, others were at the dinner last night and it may very likely go fast. The first tranche of the 2004 vintage (also rated in the 90-90+ point range by Wine Spectator, for whatever that may be worth to some) disappeared in a snap. Daniel Rogov, a professional reviewer whose tastes in Bordeaux wines I find jive with mine, rated the 2005 Siran 94 points (higher than many better-known and much higher-priced wines of the vintage such as the venerable Lynch-Bages) with tasting notes (from March/April '08) pretty much similar to mine.

In the market for an exceptional and relatively reasonably-priced wine from the most lionized and sought-after recent vintage to date? One that can age gracefully for at least 40 years and up?

Get some of the 2005 Siran for your cellar and thank me later. You'll be able to toast to your grandchild's college graduation with this.