Local Dishes with 3 Locally Available, Value Spanish Wines.

I've never really given much thought to pairing Filipino cuisine with wine. I've tried a few times with Aussie shiraz, Aussie cab/merlot/shiraz blends, Chianti Classico Riserva, minor Napa cabs, etc., but have never really found said pairings particularly interesting - just innocuous to passable.

Last Friday, I gave some Spanish wines a shot. In anticipation of her coming birthday, my wife held a Filipino lunch and invited several of her long-time friends.

Lots of ladies, lots of food.

The menu was simple but hearty: Crispy Tadyang ng Baka, Bangus Bellies Smothered in Onions, Mechado, Lumpiang Sotanghon (one of my favorites, with a sweetish-tart sawsawan of grated carrots and singkamas), Ginataang Kalabasa, and, of course, a choice between Garlic Fried and Steamed Rice.

Crispy Tadyang ng Baka

(Crispy Beef Ribs)

Lumpiang Sotanghon

(Cellophane noodles, a.k.a., Chinese vermicelli, wrapped in Egg Roll Wrapper)

Ginataang Kalabasa

(Yellow Squash in Coconut Milk)

Considering it was lunch, I figured a cool, crunchy rosé would be in order (rosés are very versatile anyway) so the ladies wouldn't get unduly inebriated so early in the day. I also figured I'd throw in a relatively light red and a robust one as well, for anyone who'd want. I know the ladies can certainly drink if they put their minds to it (I've seen it before), but, somehow, I didn't think anyone was out to get hammered that day.

More than anything, even the food, these ladies lunches (which are held every so often) are excuses for long-time friends to get-together and catch up with each other...which is always a good thing. Some of them related, by blood or affinity, distantly or closely - after all, even 4th cousins are still cousins in Manila, right? Everyone, however, good friends who have pretty much grown up and/or gone to school together and whose children are also now friends. I think it's great when that happens - children of friends also turning out being friends themselves.

Ok, ok, onto the wine....

2007 Homenaje Rosado (Bodegas Marco Real) - From Olita, Navarra, made of grenache. I've enjoyed several bottles of this since I first tried it at Terry's Segundo Piso over a multi-tapas lunch (angulas, gambas al ajillo, charred chorizo pamplona, Joselito ham, assorted cheeses, etc.) a couple of months ago.

As you can see, it is a clear, translucent celebratory cherry-red. Served properly chilled, this simple, honest, straightforward rosé will easily charm you with its fresh, clean, dry, virtually crisp, well-focused dominant flavors of (in order of prominence) ripe strawberry, raspberry, light hint of cherry. Definitely dangerously drinkable.

Slightly fuller and heftier than the Provençal rosé of Domaine Tempier I've tried, but otherwise similar in character. Less in body and ripeness than Bordeaux rosés such as those of Pavie Macquin and Pavie, but fresher and, clearly, with with better focus. Love it.

I recently tried it with spicy lamb couscous (I read that rosé is traditionally served with couscous in Morocco) at Gourmand and it was a fine match, the wine cleansing and soothing the burn. At a paltry P390 per bottle at Terry's Selection, it is something to buy by the truckload.

In general, this rosé paired pretty well with all the dishes. No matches made in heaven, no epiphanies, no surprises, just good. It never ceases to amaze me, though, how very versatile rosés are with food.

2006 Descendientes de José Palacios Pétalos del Bierzo - From the steep hillside vineyards of el Bierzo, in the province of León, Spain, made up of the indigenous mencia grape from 60-100 year old vines.

JC de Terry told me about this wine a long time ago, but I've only recently tried it. On the strength of JC's recommendation (after all, he is a Spanish PhD in oenology) I, in turn, passed on the recommendation to a fellow wine aficionado in Chicago who actually got to try it before I did.

Decanted at proper temperature for two hours, this youthful ruby-red/purple-tinged wine, true to its name, gives off notes of violets, rose petals over fresh scents of wild berries, lavender, very mild spice and underbrush. Mirrored in the mouth, its fruit and berries (there is blueberry in there, among others) are notably pure and focused, its texture very smooth. Barely medium-weight, it dances lithely on the tongue. Admirable lift and freshness. It may look a bit ponderous, but it is certainly not on the palate.

A definite steal at a shade under P1000 per bottle at Terry Selections. Judging from how nice this basic red is, I will make it a point to explore this bodega's wines from el Bierzo more deeply. This is another one to buy for me.

I've read that these types of wines drink rather early, but Team Alvaro Palacios' Oscar Alegre e-mailed me that, in his opinion, the subject wine should get even better than it already is with around 2 more years of bottle age. For whatever it is worth, for those obsessed with scores, both Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast gave this wine identical scores of "91".

At it's most reasonable price? ¡Olé!

2001 Cerro Añón Reserva Rioja by Bodegas Olarra - An "old style Rioja" said JC, and of course, he was on point. A dark, orange-red rimmed, rustic Rioja (80% Tempranillo, 8% Mazuelo, 7% Graciano and 5% Grenache as I understand). It has obviously been long reared in oak (old barrels from the taste of it), tastes quite mature - the most mature Spanish 2001 (an exceptional Rioja vintage) I have had, though, admittedly, the last time I tasted through many 2001 Rioja reservas was a year ago at the Manila Gentleman's Club's Spanish night (I was out of the country when the Spanish Chamber of Commerce held its blind tasting for which I was asked to sit on the panel of judges).

Very well rounded and smooth in the mouth, big curves, the dark fruit and cherries infused with mild spice (faint anise nuance), toasty oak, cedar and a dose of tobacco. Good heft (slightly over medium bodied) and length. Tannins well enough integrated. Not the most refined, as I said earlier, a touch rustic. Obviously heavier on the palate than the Pétalos and not as fresh - it doesn't have the usual feisty character and push of surface red fruit of most Riojas I am accustomed to.

Still and all, it was a good enough wine. At its price of slightly over P1000 at Terry Selection, one cannot at all reasonably complain. On the contrary, at its price, it is a buy for me.

Desserts were brazo de mercedes, butter cake, fruits and make-your-own halo-halo.


The ladies then trickled off to go about their respective to-dos, and, by 4:30, only the loyal few remained, ending our long meal with the Pétalos. I particularly relish the last hour of our parties at home. The near and dear, with their precious company, always wind up lingering with us - much like the long finish of fine wine.