2 Rhônes and a Burgundy for Roast Pigeon.

With a main course of earthy roast French pigeon, dinner 2 February 2008:

2000 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon - From the Doc. The overwhelming ripe, richness and power of this big, muscular young bruiser are balanced by surprising focus and purity. Decidedly a huge masculine wine, it would have been all too easy to be awkward and clumsy and it is a testament to Chapoutier's skill and dexterity that this was not the case. While still quite primary, some dark red raspberry highlights manage to twinkle through a lush velvet curtain of thick, woody, leathery ripe dark fruit compote, crème de cassis, touch of licorice, hint of thyme, vanilla and a healthy dose of sweetish dark chocolate.

I'd wait several years on this - at least 8 more, but to re-check in 6.

Enjoyable, but it was too big and alcoholic at this point for my little pigeon.

2003 Domaine de Beaurenard Cuvée Boisrenard - A blast of super ripe, baked, spiced dark fruit wrapped in alcohol. There is depth to the fruit, no doubt, probably very old vines, but its heat just wouldn't let up even though I kept returning to it throughout the evening. Much too young, of course, but I do not think this can age gracefully. Not enough stuffing in too much alcohol. I'm pretty sure it's the vintage speaking. Also quite big, but marginally less than the previously mentioned wine and nowhere near as focused.

Way too much for the pigeon. I couldn't taste any interplay at all. The wine just seemed to kick the bird's flavors right out of my mouth.

1999 Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin by Domaine Taupenot-Merme - The third bottle I've gone through in two months. My previous notes state:

Though only 8 years from vintage, it is already exhibiting its bouquet of age -
a forshadowing of even better things to come, I'd say: deep, darkish pinot noir
fruit primaries very discreetly and intricately laced with well integrated
oak/vanilla and seductive earthy/truffle notes.

In the mouth, what I recall best is its luxurious texture, a relatively full Burg but lithe, not heavy at all. Superior balance and purity. Focus and length were adequate, could be better; but, over-all (considering its price) I was very happy with it and would recommend it in a trice.

After the previous mentioned Rhônes, my Burg felt like a lightweight on the palate, yet, still, its purity and balance shone through. Added alluring lavender and notes of violets in the nose and mouth, together with whispers of the ever-so-hard-to-describe Burgundy decay that I am hopelessly in thrall of.

I loved this wine that evening and it was a good match with my pigeon. Still and all, I think I should have brought something with a little less finesse and a touch more masculine earthiness - I'm thinking something from Morey St-Denis.

Next time.