Village Morey St-Denis: Dujac & Jadot

Let me begin with saying that I think Domaine Dujac likely makes the best village Morey St-Denis, to my taste, anyway. In addition to this, its prices are such that one need not wait for a particularly special occasion to pop one open. I've enjoyed, to my immediate recollection, the '95, '96, '97 and '99 (all in Côte d'Or so there was little chance of travel-related deterioration).

1997/1999 Dujac Morey St-Denis - Both vintages are expressive of the terroir and are what one expects from Morey St-Denis from their respective vintages. The '97 is more open, forward, lush and ripe than the '99 and exhibited more sweetish red fruit and red beet nuances than the latter (not surprising). The '99 had a comparatively burlier, darker and earthier over-all character with more depth and focus to its fruit. I think the '99 will hold itself together much longer than the '97.

I would recommend both without hesitation, though I would drink the '97 on its own and would have the '99 with a fat, hearty roast pigeon. Last I checked, the '99 is available in the US at under $65. I, however, unfortunately had to pay restaurant prices in Euro, but enjoyed the bottles nontheless.

Not having any village Dujac Morey St-Denis on hand during this past Valentines (a crisis since I was to have a main course of Marc Aubry's roast pigeon), I was happily surprised to find some 1997 Jadot Morey St-Denis at Bacchus Int'l. - The cork was absolutely pristine and the wine immediately offered up a seductive bouquet perfumed with violets and the slightest hint of vanilla cream. Wide open and generous, ripe dark cherry and raspberriy layers dominated the palate with, again, slight undertones of violets, and, some plumminess underneath, all on a lushly curved medium body.

This wine had a feminine touch and delicacy to it, unlike the earthier, masculine Dujacs previously mentioned. Focus could have been much better and the flavors did display some separation towards the back. Length was adequate at best. Still and all, it was a very enjoyable bottle, and, at around the equivalent of $55 (P2,340.00) for an immediately available Morey St-Denis fix, I cannot reasonably complain. On the contrary, I am going back for more.

I'd drink up now and soonest, it seems on the cusp of decline - something I am not at all averse to. Personally, good red burgs at this point of maturity and slightly past, at times possess a wistful air of decay and nostalgia that I find irresistible.