Last Night: An Almost Burgundian Dinner.

Prologue: ABCs of Pommard's Premier Cru Epenots, a.k.a., Epeneaux:

The most famous wines of Burgundy come from the Côte d'Or, which is divided into the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, where all reds are made with pinot noir grapes. In Burgundy's Côte d'Or, unlike in Bordeaux, "grand cru" is the highest classification, a notch above "premier cru". Pommard is a village in the Côte de Beaune and their typically masculine, robust, somewhat rustic, earthy reds are generally considered as the longest-lived wines from the Côte de Beaune.

Among the 1990s better vintages for Côte d'Or reds (1990, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1997 and 1999), 1993 is recognized as exceptionally good.

Comte Armand is generally accepted as the best Pommard domaine and Clos de Epeneaux is its top bottling. As I understand, the subject clos (a walled/enclosed vineyard) is a monopole (i.e., wholly owned) of Comte Armand, unlike most Burgundy vineyards which are complicatedly shared by several different owners. The same premier cru classified vineyards are usually referred to as "Epenots" or "Grands Epenots". Only Comte Armand uses "Epeneaux", likely, because it is a monopole and/or considers itself a cut above the rest...and with good reason. Armand's Epeneaux is considered by many as equal to grand cru in quality.

I have old notes on 2 vintages of Comte Armand's Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux:

2000 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux by Comte Armand - Opened during a dinner on March 21, 2007 at Je Suis Gourmand , paired with roasted French pigeon. This medium-bodied wine started off promisingly with nice, earthy profiles of faintly spiced berries (slightly more red than black) and beets, slight gaminess, well-integrated wood. It was drinking quite nicely, good focus, even some glimmers of elegance. I kept thinking it would open up more, kept checking every few minutes, but it just started sliding after around 45 minutes to an hour, its aromas diffusing and flavors separating, its finish drying out. I expected much more from this.

1996 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux by Comte Armand - From the Doc, 4th December 2007 at Tivoli. I personally have a soft spot for these earthy, masculine reds from the Cote de Beaune (though I was somewhat disappointed with the vintage 2000 version of this wine). Quite lively yet 11 years from vintage - livelier/more youthful than I expected it to be (or could it be that my judgment was clouded by unavoidable contrast to the 2 previous wines?) - a muscular red Burg with an intriguing vague hint of iron to its hallmark earthiness. This one was comparatively much easier to analyze: a smooth compote of red fruit, red cherry and discreet ripe dark raspberry over red beet undertones - more satin than silk on the palate. Good, sturdy, solid Pommard bones and structure.Very nice and I believe this will continue to age gracefully for another, perhaps, 5 years. Admirable ageworthiness.

We (the Doc, Stockbroker and myself) intended last night's dinner at SALA to be all Burgundy, and I insisted on opening my bottle of 1993 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos de Epeneaux. Unfortunately, from the get go, I noted that the wine was a murky, brownish red color - alarm bells went off - this is normally a telltale a sign of damage by heat, over-oxidation or both. The bouquet smelled like an old red Burg's should be (with faint suggestions of decay and old violets to its fruit), but a couple of experimental sips presented a souring finish. I decanted it, hoping against hope that it would somehow revive itself, but it was useless. We set the wine aside.

Fortunately, the Stockbroker, remembering the normal risks of buying aged Burgundies, thought to bring a back-up red. No Burg this, it is from California but also made from pinot noir. Those who watched the movie Sideways will recall that this winery's pinot noir was prominently featured during the dinner scene at the Hitching Post where Miles (Paul Giamatti) first dated Maya (Virginia Madsen).

With Snake River Farm Wagyu steaks for them and roast duck breast on lentils for me:

2002 Sea Smoke Southing - A beautiful, darkly reflective red with a midnight red-violet core. The aromas, initially vaguely truffled and very earthy, are generous with ripe, dark red berries (cherry, raspberry and some strawberry), spice (hints of cinammon), vanilla/oak; all of which were richly and enthusiastically mirrored on the palate in a confidently full body with a touch or kirsch and subtle chocolate and violet undertones. Long and strong, its finish was consistent with its middle. No real mystery or profound complexity here, but a lot of up-front entertainment.

Notably, cola notes, usually at the forefront of California pinot noirs, were barely noticeable. I think this is a good thing. Typically Californian, this wine cannot fairly be accused of refined subtlety or quiet elegance.

I doubt anyone will ever mistake it for a Burgundy, nor should anyone ever expect to. Cali pinot is a totally different animal - more about lively enjoyment and boisterous laughter rather than deep, somber conversation. Each has its place.

As regards the pairing, as can be seen in the picture, the duck is richly sauced. Carlo Miguel's dishes are robust, enthusiastic and can reach the level of no-holds-barred decadence. Thus, the Sea Smoke was a good, serendipitous match as it easily held its own against my main course. I'd imagine this duck in its sauce would probably have overpowered a 15-year old Pommard.

Prior to that, we enjoyed another treat from the Stockbroker (he really rescued last night's dinner). With my starter of Twice Baked Prawn and Goat Cheese Soufflé:


1988 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche - If served blind, I honestly think I would have guessed this to be a Corton-Charlemagne (because of its clean/pure middle, underlying minerality and forward attack) or a Puligny-Montrachet (because of its notable refinement) rather than a normally saucily-plump-bottomed, more extracted Chassagne-Montrachet. I excuse myself by admitting I don't have any material experience with 20-year old white Burgs - the oldest I can recall offhand (but my memory, admittedly, isn't what it used to be) is a '92 Corton Charlemagne.

After material breathing, I noted the evolution of lemon custard notes in its bouquet. It reminded me of the lemon merengue pie my late mom used to bake when I was in elementary school. It was my favorite dessert. Unfortunately, this was towards the end of the evening and there was none more to be had.

Again, many thanks to the Stockbroker for saving the day and the short trip down memory lane.