2 Locally Available Value Wines for Lunch.

Had lunch with the Vigneron and Mr. O yesterday, a meeting of friends with a bit of work thrown in. Contrary to what some may (erroneously) think, I am active in the legal practise. I do it for a living - have been for the past 17 years - or else I couldn't afford to buy wine.

At favorite and reliable Je Suis Gourmand, I was the first to arrive, and drenched by the rain I might add, since I had to park down the road and it was raining cats and dogs. The restaurant was full despite the awful weather so we took a table in the bar area (which eventually filled up as well). I had a bottle of white opened, decanted and kept in moderately-iced water. My two other bottles, reds, stayed in my wine bag until we decided which of them to open, if any.

The two arrived in close succession, the Vigneron opening a bottle of his family's Bordeaux Supérieur for re-tasting. Considering there were meetings for us later in the day, we stuck to just 2 bottles.

With appetizers of escargot bourguignonne and flammenkueche (a.k.a., tart flambée):

2005 Robert-Denogent Saint-Véran "Les Pommards" Vieilles Vignes - Saint-Véran is a wine producing area in southern Burgundy (between Mâcon and Beaujolais) that achieved appellation status in 1971, the vineyards of which are planted to chardonnay. Better known and generally pricier Pouilly-fuissé is located within the area of Saint-Véran. As I understand, the grapes that went into the subject wine were from vines at least 40 years old.

A bit taut and tense initially with clean, lean, somewhat linear apple, mild citrus, lemon infused with a slight white minerality. After material breathing, it gained weight (a shade under medium-bodied most noticeably mid-palate) and precise breadth - the fruit turning softer and taking on a baked attribute, the lemon notes turning slightly sweeter, softer and creamy. At this point, notes of Korean Iya pear emerged, as well as a slight leesiness, whisper of vanilla and, towards the back, a mere suggestion of nuttiness. Good harmony.

Acidity was adequate, the wine was in balance.

I have read some write-ups likening the wines from St-Véran to Meursault and Pouilly-fuissé. I really can't comment on these comparisons at this point since this was the first Saint-Véran I've tried - and one from a very ripe year. I'd like to be able to try some from 2004 and 2006 to get a better handle on it before I venture into generalizing their characteristics - but I can definitely get that they may be compared more to Meursaults and Pouilly-fuissé rather than other white Burgundies such as Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Chablis.

From my readings, though, I do agree that this is a very affordable way to drink good white Burgundy. At P1900 per bottle at retail from Sommelier Selection, I am not presently aware of a comparable (in terms of quality) locally available (non-Chablis) white Burgundy. The only one that comes close in quality-to-price-ratio ("QPR"), to my mind would have to be Laurent Tribut's traditional, unoaked, pure, steely, minerally, laser-focused village Chablis (also sold by Sommelier Selection).

It was a good match with Je Suis Gourmand's escargot, and, I would expect, their ever-popular terrine of foie gras and trio of scallop-prawn-sea bass pasta as well.

With main courses of goose leg confit over ceps and potatoes, and, boneless, stuffed pig's knuckle (á la Au Pied de Cochon) and frites:

2003 Château Saint-Jacques - the Bordeaux Supérieur bottling of Château Siran (Margaux). The grapes that go into this wine come from the vineyards located on the right side of the estate's gardens (if one is facing the 17th century family manse), across the road from Siran's Margaux appellation vineyards, bordering said appellation's geographic limits.

My past notes on this state:

...2003 was a ripe vintage for Bordeaux
and (together with 2000 and 2005) was one of the most celebrated vintages of the
21st century. It has been opined that 2003s drink earlier than 2000s and,
definitely, 2005s. At its very reasonable price, and after 45 minutes to an
hour's decanting, one can easily enjoy this big, ripe red Bordeaux with roast
meat dishes at anytime. For whatever it's worth, the 2000 vintage of this wine
completely sold out not long after it was tasted by the members of the
International Wine & Food Society.

I can add now that this is straightforwardly generous on the palate, well-extracted, with good masculine heft and streamlined curves to its cassis, cherry/raspberry, dark plum, cedar and vanilla/oak flavors. Mid-palate, slight nuances of leather and sweet tobacco emerge. Quite similar in character to the estate's Margaux bottling, but a touch sweeter and not as heavily muscled or deeply veined. Drinking even better than when I last tried it around a year ago.

The initial stocks of this sold out quickly months ago, but it is now back in stock at Premium Wine Exchange and Säntis for P800 per bottle more-or-less. Great QPR at that price, and, objectively, a definite buy.

Excellent with the goose leg confit. I didn't get to try it with the pig's knuckle because Mr. O started growling and baring his teeth whenever my fork ventured within striking distance of his plate.