A scheduled dinner at Santi's place was postponed due to family obligations, so we pushed through at my place. We were 4 couples in all: Rene & Aimee Fuentes, Enky & Mayette Rey, Miguel & Ria Vecin and Catha & I, plus 2 of our sons (the eldest was out with his friends). Cocktails started at 6:30pm with Aimee, Rene & Miguel, with Ria, Mayette & Enky following shortly.
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...as well as the Lardo which Miguel had sliced thinly so it melts on top of the hot baguette slices. Heavenly.
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Naturally, with the cold cuts, in typical Spanish style, Mig had served some Pan con Tomate.
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L-R: Enky, Aimee & Mayette
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Rene, Miguel, Ria, Catha & Enky (who happens to be Miguel's 1st cousin).
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The second must still be working out as the guns look bigger now.
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Salad was by Catha:
Assorted Greens with Olives, Feta, Sliced Grapes, Dried Cranberries & Candied Pili Nuts.
Assorted Greens with Olives, Feta, Sliced Grapes, Dried Cranberries & Candied Pili Nuts.
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Salad muna para healthy.
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The rosés with a bottle of 1985 Château Gruaud Larose for after the steaks.
In enjoying the company, the wine and having to cook, I totally forgot to take any photos of the steaks. Good thing Miguel did (all steak shots are his). Thanks, Mig!
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The finished product.
To pair with the steaks, we had two Napa cabs - which were timely for the coming 4th of July:
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I opened a bottle of 1985 Château Gruaud Larose (in the photo with the bottles of 2009 Tempier Bandol Rosé) and decanted it for around 25 minutes before we weighed in on it. Quite a bit of initial furry, animal funkiness in the nose which significantly eased off after breathing. Thereafter, it was a medium-bodied stream of somewhat linear, sanguine, slightly feral dark fruit, cedar, ceps, bit of underlying asphalt, worn leather, slight violets and anise. "Very St-Julien", noted Rene of the bouquet. Middle was a bit weak; the finish of moderate length.
Good typicity; a more than decent wine, surely, but I expected/wished for a bit more of a mid-mouth statement from a well-respected 1855 2nd growth from St-Julien.
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A few quick initial sniffs upon opening revealed clean (no hint of being corked) but relatively reticent aromas considering its vintage. I then decanted it and let air for around 30-45 minutes, then poured as the main courses hit the table. The aeration did it good. Although the bouquet was still a bit reserved (not a bad thing for me), in the mouth, it was well-fleshed out.This time, I took care not to over-aerate it - no decanting, we let it breathe in glass and tracked its progress. This time, it showed more evenly/consistently; pretty much n line with my previous notes, but with marginally less heft. What we all agreed on, however, was that it showed markedly more elegance, refinement and much finer balance than the '85 Gruaud Larose.
With a definitive strike, proper mid-mouth breadth and weight and a moderately long finish, this showed off its pedigree in its slightly minty, anise, cedar/violets-infused black fruit and underlying tar/black gravel/asphalt. A notch or two under full-bodiedness, this exuded good, depth, complex layering, precise reserve and good balance. With a bit more time in the glass, dark/bitter chocolate emerged to join the tar and anise notes.
After around an hour more, the wine began to lose its body, sharpen its flavors and the anise and acidity started getting a bit obtrusive. Maybe I should have put it back in bottle after its aeration in the decanter. I think it can't take extended exposure in a decanter. I'll do that next time and see if that extends its performance. It was beautiful while it lasted though.
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8 comments:
Thanks for everything. We had a great time. The Bandol and the Paella was a great pairing!
Hey Noel,
Interesting observation on your notes for the Gruaud 85. I had a bottle of Pichon Baron 85 last month, and the standout characteristics of "animal funkiness, feral fruit" stood out on nose, almost identical to a moderately aged CDP.
I thought it was rather strange on the nose, but the palate did show a very nice pleasing and mature finish, lovely wine in the end ! That was my first 85 Bordeaux, you must have better experience over that vintage. A common trait ?
Cheers,
J-Sern
@ Miguel - You are more than welcome, Migs. Anytime. Thanks for the deli and the pacharán as well. Yes, the pairing was great and I think the 2009 Tempier Rosé is really something else now, no?
@ J - Off the top of my head, I've had the '85 Pichon Lalande a few times and I distinctly recall 2 bottles which showed the same notes when popped and poured. The '85 Margaux, Lafite and Pape Clément did not. I'll have to look through my past notes to see about others though. I just arrived from a wine dinner and am a bit woozy.
Best to you both,
N
I've gone through some other notes, but not all (not also that I lost a couple of years' worth of written notes before I started posting notes online): the 1985 Calon Ségur initially showed a bit of the animal funkiness as well, but not as much as the '85 Gruaud Larose. I was thinking now that this was more a St-Estèphe vintage trait, but I do not recall it in the '85 Montrose (I do not seem to have any notes on '85 Cos d'Estournel though).
The '85 Mouton and 1985 L'Evangile were pretty pungent, but more with truffles than anything else. The 1985 Palmer did not display the subject feral/animal funkiness.
Best,
N
Hey Noel,
Thanks for the prompt and comprehensive feedback. It was a task for me to scour that 85 Baron out, but you've seemed to have bulk privilege of it ! Much envy but with even more respect.
So can we safely say this is a Pauillac and St Esteph trait ? Though your experience with 85 Margaux and Lafite did not reflect as such.
Did you get this similarly with other aged Bordeaux, or is it just an 85 symptom ?
Cheers, J
that's a beautiful Enteng Manansala piece Noel. Is that a vintage Malang beside it?
-jay
Hi, Jay.
Thanks, I got the Manansala at a good price. Yes, that is an older Malang beside it.
Best,
N
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