Sunday, May 3, 2009

La Tienda, 1st May 2009.

My children, after seeing my posts on past La Tienda dinners, had been asking me if they could try the dishes. My wife and I figured my family would like the dishes as well, so La Tienda was my choice for my 44th birthday dinner. This was the day after Aaron's olive oil and wine tasting lunch. Earlier on, Miguel, though in Barcelona (then at the airport, actually, on his way to Milan), graciously arranged my menu with Chef Javi Lecumberri.

Still sick and a bit out of sorts because of my medication, I prudently vowed to minimize drinking wine - so I limited myself to one glass each of white, rosé and red. Naturally, with the typical Spanish dishes, all wines were from Spain. I had forgotten to bring my camera, so had to take photos with my phone's camera - please excuse the poor quality of some shots. Anyway, I didn't take many as I was busy enjoying the food, wine and company - besides, I ordered all my old favorites which I have written about thrice before: here, here and here. Just to complete this post, however, I will pull food shots (some by Miguel) from our previous La Tienda dinners.

We were 9 persons in all: my wife and 3 sons, my dad, brother, sister-in-law, youngest sister and myself. My other sis who lives in the US called me during the dinner to wish me a happy birthday. Our menu was a litany of favorites. To start, we had:

Escalivadas (a typical Catalonian dish)

Boquerónes (fresh anchovies)

Pulpo à la Gallega (octopus as served in Galicia)

Kokotxas (a typical Basque dish made from fish ganglions)

With these excellent starters, I paired...

2007 Laxas Albariño - From Rias Baixas, a D.O. in Galicia that includes Condado do Tea, Val do Salnés and O Rosal. Albariño is a white wine grape that most all authorities consider performs the best in Rias Baixas (and I definitely agree, having tried several Portugese versions, alvarinhos, which have been comparably insipid). Albariño wines are typically dry, brightly/sharply acidic and floral. As such, in Galicia, they are traditionally paired with seafood dishes the area is famous for.

This wine, as before, displayed fresh, brightly dry, crisp, vibrant mineral/flint touched, slightly grassy green apple, guava, grapefruit, gooseberry and a bit of ripe lemon. There is a slight, appetite-enhancing almond bitterness that comes in towards the back. Its sharp acidity gives over-all lift to the fruit, making for a lively and refreshing wine.

With the aforementioned dishes, it was perfect. Even my youngest sister, who doesn't drink as much wine as the rest of us, loved it.

The next gustatory salvo was made up of Paella de Verduras (made with Basmati rice) and Besugo al Horno...

With which I served...

2007 Marco Real Homenaje Rosado - a grenache based rosado from Navarra, east-northeast of Rioja. I've written about this crowd pleaser of a rosado so many times, I need not belabor how good a wine it is, how well it pairs with many Spanish and Filipino dishes or how good a deal it is at its price.

This rosado was a great match with the paella de verduras and the garlic-laced besugo al horno. It has never let me down either with assorted tapas at Terry's 2º Piso. Even my two teen-age sons can't get enough of this.

Thereafter came the Chuleton...

...which I paired with...

2002 Bodegas Alion Tinto Reserva - I've written about this maker, owned and run by Spain's pride, Vega Sicilia, and have had, on numerous, separate occasions, their vintages 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004:

With 18 hectares of tinto fino (what they call tempranillo in Ribera del Duero), this bodega's maiden vintage was in 1991. The Reserva Tinto is (the) only one wine produced by this bodega, no white or crianza or anything else. Only 100% new French oak is ever used - rare these days in Spain where many use a lot of less expensive American oak - but, then, if anyone there can afford 100% new oak barrels all the time, it, obviously, would be Vega Sicilia. Barrel ageing is 16-20 months.

I decanted this upon arriving at the restaurant and, so, it had been breathing for around 2 hours by the time I started pouring with the meat course.

In a word, it was delicious. Firm and strong, rich in blackberry, cherry, some raspberry, kirsch, chocolate, licorice, cedar and vanilla/oak. Good acidity keeps the richness in check, precluding it being cumbersome and flabby, the oak very well integrated. Marginally leaner than the 2001 and 2003, but with seemingly better acidic balance. This is also clearly much more ready to drink at this point. Loved it, and so did my brother and sis-in-law. I believe my dad liked it too.

The other long table next to us was filled with abuelas, likewise celebrating a birthday I believe. They kept the resident "Trio los Panchos" busy with requests for Spanish songs as they sang along. We didn't mind at all, it added to the celebratory air; we actually sang along with a few songs. They even played a couple of old songs "Pregúntale á las Estrellas" and "El Reloj y La Vela" which my late mom used to sing to my dad when they were young.

For dessert, we had Torrejas de Leche which we ate so fast, I wasn't able to photograph it. Nice milky ice cream served with it. Very nice. Double espressos ended my memorable birthday meal.

Javi and Miguel, many thanks for helping make my birthday dinner so enjoyable. It was really great and my whole family enjoyed the food, festive ambiance, everything. Until the next!

12 comments:

Anonymous said...

Belated Happy Birthday, Noel! Nice to see familiar dishes gracing your celebration - along with proven pairings from the past.

Rightly so, - as you say - you can spend more time enjoying rather than taking notes!

Cheers!

Edwin

Noel said...

Thanks, Edwin, much appreciated. Yes, sometimes it's not all about food and wine. The pairings were, indeed, proven - as you well know. No-brainers, really.

Let's get together again for some food and wine when Miguel gets back.

Best,

N

Miguel said...

Great...glad everything went well. By the way, the Abuelas behing you were all my relatives :) .....regulars in La Tienda for years...

Unknown said...

Belated Happy Birthday Noel! Hope you're feeling better already...

Tried the albarino last Friday during dinner at Terry's and your notes are spot on. Now I'm a fan too...:-)

Noel said...

Miguel,

Really? All of them? Wow, well they really added to the festiveness of the occasion. Even my sis-in-law was enjoying their songs. It looked like they were having a great time.


Chinkee,

Miguel was the one who introduced me to the Laxas Albariño, so we have him to thank for that. Really good stuff.

Best,

N

Ines Cabarrus said...

Happy Birthday Noel!

My boyfriend and I eat at La Tienda all the time, and I really want to try all the dishes you keep featuring- such as the Besugo and the Chuleton. Do these have to be ordered in advance or can we just ask off the menu? (I guess this question goes to Miguel as well :) We do know Chef Javi due to our feature on La Tienda for our book..I'm just asking bec usually our trips to La Tienda are last minute decisions because we live right across the street :)

Cheers!

Noel said...

Thanks, Ines.

As far as I know, for sure the kokotxas is not on the menu. The paella de verduras is on the menu but you have to call ahead if you want it made with basmati rice. I'm not sure if the pulpo is on the menu. Miguel would know.

I think everything else is on the menu, but not always available (e.g., they don't always have fresh besugo or boqurónes), so it is always better to call ahead.

N

Danny said...

Dear Noel,

Belated Happy Birthday !!! Best wishes to you and your family on your XXth !

Best regards
Danny, Cecilia and Vanessa

Miguel said...

Noel - not all of them but I can already spot 3 of them from your picture. The rest probably not.. :)

Re whats on the menu, the pulpo is not on the menu but therest I believe is.

I brought a diferent bottleof Albarino from Spain (Martin Codax) lets try it one of this days..

Noel said...

Wow, great! Would love to try them! I've read about the Martín Códax albariños but have never tried them. Which ones, the Códax, Burgáns and Organistrum? Vintage?

Welcome back, by the way. Was with Santi yesterday afternoon, he said you just got back.

Re: the abuelas, although they were all speaking in Spanish 90% of the time, I heard some talking in Ilonggo as well. Your Cacho side is Ilonggo, right? My late mom was true-blue Ilongga - Divinagracia & Debuque.

Noel said...

Dear Noel,

Belated Happy Birthday !!! Best wishes to you and your family on your XXth !

Best regards
Danny, Cecilia and Vanessa
Hi, Dan, C and Vanessa!

Many thanks for the greetings! Trust you are all doing well there. E-mail me a recent picture of Vanessa naman!

N

Miguel said...

Just the Codax - 2007 vintage I think.

Yes my family on both sides including Cachos are Ilonggos...my mom for example was born in Molo.